Coelocanth81

Bumping this thread. As a 2+2 owner, I'd like to see what you came up with. My chassis project is a few years out, but I'm looking for the same answers.

If anyone has completed or is currently doing this swap, could you chime in with your experiences? I'm really excited by the potential, but I'd like to create a thread for some feedback before I invest 9 grand in the system.

What's the proper "stance"? It's all subjective. Lowered cars rarely pay dividends on the street outside of crushed air dams and high-centered speed bumps. The 260 and 280Z have a higher stock ride height than the 240z, but lowering it an inch or two will produce the appearance of the earlier car. As for wheels and tires, a 225 50R15 on a 7" zero offset wheel seems to work nicely on a slightly lowered 280Z.

Thanks for the comments, everybody. Ryan, do you have the "Track Attack" suspension? I'm hoping that I can install it in my 2+2 and keep the functionality of the back seat (even thought NOBODY ever sits there).

Now that I've got your attention, Can I get some input on the survivability of heim joints in some of the popular suspension upgrades out there? Many of these kits (TTT, Apex to name a couple) seem angled toward track performance, and utilize heim joints in every location possible to achieve that. I'm concerned about the durability and drivability of such components on a street car. I'm considering using RideTech R-Joints on an Apex Track Attack setup for my 280z 2+2 to alleviate some of the noise and reliability issues associated with heim joints in street use. Any thoughts?

This helped me: Find someone who is successfully running a maximum width setup (of any rim diameter) on a stock suspension with an overall wheel diameter that you like th looks of. Then take that specific wheel and tire size spec, and throw it into the online tire size calculator to find identical wheel dimensions in various rim and tire size combinations. If you can find a matching wheel dimension in the rim size of your choice, and your wheel offset is identical to the one you copied for the example, the combination will likely work. Just be mindful that if you change the overall wheel diameter from stock, it will affect the speedometer accuracy, and if you use larger width or smaller diameter rims than the setup you copied, you might have spring perch clearance issues. I'm running 215 60/15s on 7" zero offset wheels, and I have no rubbing issues on a stock suspension. Car is a 76 280z 2+2.

I'll take a look at that write-up. Thanks for the link and the advice! I searched the forums for answers, but I'm not savvy enough with the search tool to separate the wheat from the chaff.

Hello everyone, I'm tuning up a stock L28 in a '76 280z, and I've noticed my cam timing has *slightly* retarded due to chain wear (maybe about 1 degree, but not much). I'm considering advancing the cam timing to the next dowel hole to advance the cam timing 4 degrees ahead of its current position (which would bring it to about 3 degrees advanced of TDC timing. Has anyone done this? I'm not expecting a dramatic improvement, but this tired old engine never sees over 5000 RPM, so I'm comfortable with the altered powerband dynamic. I'm mostly just wanting to confirm that this change won't create a piston/valve clearance issue. Thanks everyone! Tom