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Twisted46 last won the day on July 18

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  1. Here is some corner data, I recorded the chicane "kink" as one corner since you really never open the wheel up. Corner Forester 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 75.5 84.2 51 66 51 51.7 45.2 66.7 57.3 69.3 56.5 Entry 66.1 67.4 29.3 50 47.5 49 57.4 69.7 51.1 - 23.1 Mid 77.2 61.1 55.9 43.2 37.3 45.7 66.7 57.3 46 - - Exit 260Z 73.7 76.8 46.3 53.4 47.7 51.6 45.6 57.3 55 74 54.4 Entry 65.1 62 37 41.7 37.4 50.2 51.2 61 44.4 66.3 25.1 Mid 62.8 56.7 31 40.5 43 45.1 57.3 55 46.1 56.9 35.4 Exit
  2. Thank you JM, I will avoid the bushings completely then. My only concern with the plates is that the ones I have seen replace the top hats and lower the car significantly or are only for use with coilovers. I do not mind going plates but I am not planning on dropping $2K for coils for another year or 2. I am building the car slowly so I want parts that will work now and later. Is there a plate that can be used with OEM top hats?
  3. I tried a new sensor from ZCar, same problem. Maybe the gauge?
  4. Silverado, Duly noted and I will take you suggestions in to consideration that next time I out there. My driving line is not terribly different between the two but then they drive nothing alike and have to be treated differently. I will post my corner entry, mid, and exit speeds later today, that will tell a lot too. What do you guys suggest for front camber adjustment: arms or bushings? I would do the plates but my long term plans for the car involve a nice adjustable coilover setup So i will deal with that then. I plan to do bump steer spacers and TC rod pivot joints at he same time. I am also looking at the 1-1/4" ST bars considering I am on 180lbs springs for next couple years. Do you guys know of any triangulated front braces that work with V8s? Or is my best bet the welder and McMaster?
  5. Ben, Thanks again for the suggestions. Unfortunately I showed up to the track with my only GoPro card full.... dummy. Here is a clip my wife took, It was lap 1 so not full out but you can see how much the car is leaned over. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lHUmts9dnRvONSdJXeCmxB1UYCDN7UCe Here is a session I recorded in the forester last year https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_cOSLhnecTk7zxuCZ1SZRiydYeTxENpG
  6. I was having trouble getting a video that made sense of the Forester and 260z overlayed. After reviewing data and video it is clear I was being light on the throttle (which I kind of knew) and shifting too early (not in the power band). I am confident I can shave 4 seconds off of sector 3 if I stay in 4th and brake 350ft later lol, my corner exit speed is way better in the 260z. Looking at sector 4 gave me a lot more confidence in the car and reminded me that it is all about the idiot behind the wheel. Sector 4 goes from a hard flat 90 right to a very tricky blind uphill that you really need to sweep a 1 turn with no brakes. It is nice to be able to see where exactly I made mistakes and really I was just being too timid with my speed. That being said I could see a ton of roll in external video, upgraded bars it is. Next season I will have more alignment capability so I am hoping to make my goal of getting in to the high 1:40s. Sector Trap Time 1 2 3 4 5 6 16.62 37.1 19.55 13.48 21.76 16.64 Forester 16.02 34.95 16.75 13.45 20.04 16.01 260Z 0.6 2.15 2.8 0.03 1.72 0.63 delta Sector Trap Speed 81 109 46 60 53 70 77 113 38 65 59 77 -4 4 -8 5 6 7
  7. I looked at my lap data and have a different perspective. I'll try and post it later. Jesse, 1 - it is a decently fast track, my average speed is ~75MPH. The Scoob is a brick but the Datsun has lift. I am lowered 2 inches with an air dam and front lip that is 3 inches off the ground. 2 - Lap data tells the story, I was being a chicken on the back straight, off the gas and on the brakes 350ft earlier in the 260Z and not on the brakes as hard. I am running stock fronts with kevlar pads. Rear ZX disc setup. 3 - I guess the term is subjective. I don't mean drifting or anything close to it. I mean the front tucking in and rear swinging in to place nicely. JHM, no dyno runs yet but I have high output gm iron heads and a mildly aggressive cam. FWIW I will look in to a bigger front bar, the choice for no rear bar is because I don't have an LSD... Yet I just have to decide what camber method to go with. Track is the same surface 11 mos apart. JMortensen, Thank you Ben, Yes both times are running the chicane "link" Stock geometry with poly bushings and a lowering spring/strut combo. Yes it is not a racecar... Yet, I am working on getting it to that point but slowly over time. Thanks guys
  8. Well the catchy click bait title should be "My MONSTER V8 260z is SLOWER Than a Forester" The real story is that I got to put in some good laps at Mid Ohio this weekend and my best lap was 11 seconds off my best lap I set in my 2012 forester XT, 2:06 to 1:55. Now the forester had 2015 STI struts/springs and upgraded end links. It was also a stage 2 car so about ~300WHP but otherwise a stock car. I was running on 225 Hankook V12 EVO2s and had that thing at its absolute limit UNDERSTEER!!!!. Now the 260Z, a 2+2 weighs at least 500 lbs less than the forester, probably more but I want to scale it before making any claims. It is completely stripped with a half cage right now. The SBC is probably making about the same power. I am on KYB struts and German 280Z springs, I replaced nearly every bushing with poly stuff and new tie rods/ball joints. Stock front bar with upgraded links and no rear bar (stock R200). The SBC V8 is in the JTR position(just enough room to rotate the distributor.) It goes without saying the CG of the 260 is WAY lower than the Forester. 245 R888r 200 race tires. I had the tires singing really nice and the car FELT great, just a little tail end slide in each corner and I could put it exactly where I wanted. I had a ton of fun but was getting passed all day (part of running with Porche club lol.) I could care less about getting passed by $100K+ 911s or anything for that matter but I know that I should be faster than myself in a damn crossover. So here is the part makes me think something is up with my suspension geometry, I am making wider, stickier tires sing on a car that weighs less but I am going slower? Is there something that I am missing with my setup? My winter plans include more cage work, front and rear tower bars, and adjustable front camber. Anything else I should add to my list? I have a baby on the way so no AZC stuff lol. Note: of course I realize that the driver makes the single biggest difference in lap times and an AWD Subaru is a lot easier to drive at the limit. That is why I did not time my first few outings in this car until I really go to know it and get more comfortable.
  9. I would first replace the bulb, cheap and easy. The next plan of action would be to check for voltage drop at both plugs.
  10. Victory!!!!! Brake booster replaced (45 minute job) and i can barely move the pedal with the car off!!!! I spent so much time and money chasing down a $.01 piece of rubber but I have better brakes for it. Thanks for coming along for the ride everyone!
  11. It has already been started but your transmission is going to be the deciding factor here. If you don't have an overdrive gear your cursing RPM will be very high.
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