Twisted46

Hey guys, when I installed my JTR V8 setup last year there was about a 2 inch void between the mount on the T5 and the cross member. That was using the JTR suggested GM P/N. I fabbed up what was basically a bolt extension to make it work but I don't trust it for long term racing. I have been looking at some OTS options but they are all for the later 2 bolt style mount and not the 1 bolt style the cross member was made for. Does anyone know of an OTS spacer that would eliminate this gap? I can always go custom but I am trying to save as much of my time as possible.

Your going to regret doing poly mounts at both locations, I have "cheap" rubber mounts on my JTR swapped race car. The transmission and motor mounting from JTR has been rock solid. I really think you need to follow the best instruction I've seen and read that book 3-5 times then get back in to things. This forum has been great to me with my swap when questions the book does not cover come up. Also I think everyone needs to understand that the JTR kit is only a starting point. You should not expect it to drop in and go. They give you a great canvas to paint on and that is why you paid hundreds and not thousands for that kit.

I think the idea is cool but I am not seeing what the benefit is? Simply to use a smaller bar? Reduced roll moment? Just for funsies?

Hey guys, IIRC Greg Ira holds the S30 fastest lap at the same track nearly 20 seconds faster so yes they can be VERY fast. I have not had the car back to the track, full winter here in Ohio now. But if you read some of my posts I am pretty sure I found the major issues. Aside from braking much earlier than I should have my front tires were only using about the outside 1/4 in turns due to camber and probably some flex. I bought NCRAs and a triangular front brace. I also found a new tie rod end that was floppy that could have ended very bad. Have to wait until April to see results but I am expecting to cut 10 seconds with camber and braking.

Well I may have found the true root cause today. I had the front in droop while changing oil and was playing with the drivers side wheel and noticed a huge amount of play. The new moog rod end is shot, couldn't tell with weight on the front. Thank god it did not let go at speed mid turn.

Cary, in my opinion if you are worried about being criticized then you shouldn't be posting things on the internet so don't worry about it lol. I also know you have no way of knowing I raced BMWs for 7 years and only tracked the forester for the 2 years I was working on getting the Z together. That being said I am used to RWD sports cars and let me tell you getting a forester around a track takes a very special approach to handling, when your weight is 2+ feet off the ground you don't dare move the wheel mid corner, you purely steer with the pedals. Yes the Z required a lot more wheel work but I think I found my primary issue which is a front alignment that is all out of whack. Even the toe which I had set at a dealership is messed up (toe out at over 1 degree different each side.) Combine that with woeful camber and body roll and it makes sense why the car felt loose and was squealing tires at low speeds. I really think I will save 5 seconds when i get the alignment and body roll sorted. Another 5 when I start to brake later because I can carry more speed in the corners. Then another 5-10 as I learn the car more. I am going to counter your entry speed comment. If the car is already pushing in understeer more entry speed is going to slow your exit speed down.

Thanks Miles, I test this out when we get another nice day here in Ohio..... So next April 😝

I just got around to testing this. The gauge did not move at all.

JHM, I am running 16X8s with 245 rubber at both ends, pretty mild. I will keep spacers in mind for the rear. JMortensen, I should know that.. duh, thanks for fixing my idiot brain. I am not terribly worried about additional wear as the car is trailered to the track and back home and two drivers with the local Z club each year. I was originally looking at normal bump steer spacers and figured why not get some more camber. I am also looking at Apex and T3 adjustable front end units.

Thanks JHM, I figured I'd hear from you! That is the feedback I was looking for. I am 2" lower so every degree of camber I can get back is a plus. Also the track I frequent has a noticeable hump on turn 14 right on the apex. I never had a problem with it in my other cars but the S30 does not like it. I was wondering though if the increase of track width created more understeer without correcting the back.

Hey guys, Looking for any feedback you might have on T3's NCRCA. I was already planing for bump steer spaces so it seems like these could be a beneficial upgrade to a lowered S30. I can find anybody reporting first had experience using them with results. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/negative-camber-roll-center-adjusters-240z-260z-and-280z

They make full sets of keyed lug nuts... I have a set on my car, not because I want them but because they had the right shank for my wheels. Unless you go to a machinist for some custom work, you are using off the shelf product that everyone has access to. Someone stealing wheels probably has a toolbox full of these keys... that they stole. I hate needing an extra tool just to get my wheels off but that is just my dumb opinion. My are is also parked in my garage in suburbia with 4 video cameras watching the house so that makes a difference in mindset I suppose.

Okay after spending more time staring the frame and suspension here is what I came up with for better/flatter cornering. Chassis work: I won't go in to detail in the this thread but my objective is to stiffen the car by connecting the front/rear frame rails to the rockers and tunnel, and tie the roll hoop to the front floor pan/rocker union. T3 triangulated strut brace. Camber: For now I am just going to stick with camber arms to get some use out of my new struts and springs. Body Roll: ST F/R sway bars (240z style) and bad dog plates. Misc: T/C Rod ball and socket swap.

Thanks Miles, I'll try that. Car has been down waiting for me to change the water pump so I will give it a try this weekend.

Here is some corner data, I recorded the chicane "kink" as one corner since you really never open the wheel up. Corner Forester 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 75.5 84.2 51 66 51 51.7 45.2 66.7 57.3 69.3 56.5 Entry 66.1 67.4 29.3 50 47.5 49 57.4 69.7 51.1 - 23.1 Mid 77.2 61.1 55.9 43.2 37.3 45.7 66.7 57.3 46 - - Exit 260Z 73.7 76.8 46.3 53.4 47.7 51.6 45.6 57.3 55 74 54.4 Entry 65.1 62 37 41.7 37.4 50.2 51.2 61 44.4 66.3 25.1 Mid 62.8 56.7 31 40.5 43 45.1 57.3 55 46.1 56.9 35.4 Exit