Twisted46

Still Have Them

NewZed, That is exactly what I ended up doing and it seemed to help some. I have not tried reverse bleeding yet but that is the next step if nothing else works.

Sorry for the long wait for an update, I have been really busy. The speed bleeders from Russell do work. I won't go in to much detail but basically don't buy Dorman brand bleeders for your car, they look identical to the Russell but the nut is lower down and they bottom up on the nut before seating. I noticed the Russell's still had the thread locker on them and I must not have actually tried them. They fit. So I then bled the brakes some more and things seemed to get better but not by much. I also managed to lock up the driver rear caliper now??? So I need to work on that more. I can now pump up the pedal indicating there is air in the system and it takes more effort. I guess I just need to keep bleeding the brakes over and over. Ordered another set of bleeders so I can do all 4 corners by myself. It does stop thought. I'll report back once I get more bleeding done,

I just went through a full energy suspension kit, tie rods, and ball joints too. As others have indicated there are some slight fitment issues with the busing and bearing sizing but nothing that you can't overcome. I personally replaced everything that I needed to remove from the car to do the install including brake parts as the car is nearly 50 years old now and mine sat in a barn for the last 25 of them. The struts are probably the biggest thing that I would not want to go back and do (mainly in the rear). They are not expensive but also not cheap and I think worth replacing if you are not sure. Bad struts will make the rest of your efforts moot. Just beware of the spindle pins :)

I tried to get pictures through the wheels

Good link Miles, I have worked on many brake systems before and the Datsun is definitely living up to it's reputation. I am still seeking out a local club member for a hands on look at things too.

Hi All, Thanks again for the helpful feedback and suggestions. I probably will not have the car off the ground again until this weekend so I can't get a good picture of the caliper, all of the ones I have are not detailed enough. However I did replace the pads with a set that is specd for OEM use and they fit perfect but I will get pictures and part numbers. I will try bleeding again (when I get back to working on the brakes) with the above mentioned reverse flow and removing the calipers (front and rear) to hold the bleeders vertical as the highest point. I could see the orientation of the rears allowing a small air pocket at the top.

I am certainly not ignoring anyone's suggestion to use a larger MC, but if you read back through the posts it was barely mentioned. However before I spend $150 (which is honestly a drop in the bucket at this point) on a new Wilwood 1" MC I would like to confirm that there are no other issues because again, I was having this problem with stock drums and the current front Sumitomo calipers. Stage - 1The front calipers were in good shape when i bought the car so I did not replace them, they are still working great and lock up the front wheels when asked to do so. The pedal felt normal and firm when I bought the car. Stage - 2 I bled the brakes because for all I knew the fluid was a decade old, problems with the soft pedal started. Stage - 3 I then spent the next year fussing over this issue including replacing the rear drums with calipers because I am an idiot and hate drum brakes for no reason. No improvement Stage - 4 The pedal feel got way worse when I replaced the MC last week and I could actual push the pedal to the floor without hassle. Stage -5 Full bench bleed and system bleed this weekend at least put the pedal back to feeling like stage 2/3. I am saying all of this because the problem happened only after I bled the stock brakes and before I started replacing anything.

It is an OEM 7/8 but it feels exactly the same as it did with drum brakes. This started when I first bled the system after buying the car and has existed since.

Okay so I am at least back to ground zero instead of being in the negative. I now have my new MC feeling like the old one (the pedal get firm at the bottom and does not go to the floor). The problem is still that I get a lot of travel before much happen. I noticed while bench bleeding (the way that Miles posted) the first of the two piston strokes is about half the resistance of the second, if that makes sense. I put about two quarts of fluid through it at this point and the pedal does not get any more firm with pumping so I do not think it is air. Two M/Cs with the same issue... Maybe the booster is bad?? the reaction disk is in place. The other issue of PV was solved quite nicely with two unions, no more issues there. I am going to to try and find someone local who knows S30s pretty well and have them take a look, I can't think of anything else.

I know this is outdated but i wanted to chime in and say that I did not use the crossmember spacers and I have 1/2" clearance between my block hugger headers and steering shaft. I did not slot the mouns and the motor is very snug in the back maybe 3/4".

Thanks Miles, I will search and check that too. I did note that the MCs looked nearly identical to each other before installing but who knows. I have spent no less than 20 hours on brakes, is suppose it is on of Z right of passage? like the spindle pins..... and everything else lol.

I have regular bleed screws on all 4 corners right now. I replaced the fronts right away when they were leaking with hardly any fluid in the line and no pressure at all... lol... and I replaced the rears to use the Motive as it does not work with speed bleeders. The plan was to put the speeds back in the rear before the next track day but it sucks I won't have fronts. Sunday I am going to take the MC out for a 4th time and bleed it, delete PV with two line unions, and bleed the system again. I just want to drive my V8 beast 😩

639570 is for the drum cylinders. I have 280zx rear calipers that use the same bleeder as the own fronts. The problem is that 639560 is too short for my fronts and I can't find any longer speed bleeders that are m10x1

I have Dorman 12706 and Z Car Depot 27463 (The Z car bleeders are in a Russell box and IIRC 560 is what they say.) I will double check when I get home. They look identical to the Dormans i bought for the rear. Both are 35mm and the threaded portion is too short for my calipers on the front. Which may not be original I will take a picture when I get home. I bought a 40mm normal bleed screw from the parts store to test and it worked great so regardless the 35mm bleed screws are too short for my calipers. Update: Look like Earls also offers 35mm as the max length in m10x1. The Calipers on my front are Sumitomo and most likely were replaced at some time so maybe they use a deeper port? Ill take a picture of the bleed screw difference tonight.