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Twisted46 last won the day on July 18 2019

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  1. The answer as usual is it depends. If we are talking a few degrees then mostly just alignment(camber). If you start going crazy you will start changing the way forces are loaded in the suspension and chassis which may or may not become a problem. I would say there are better options out there.
  2. Does anyone use the DS series (formerly DR series) from BC? Every post I can find only references the BR series which it seems are not suited for long term track use. The DS series is race specific but I can find little information related to the S30 platform. I am trying to decide between the DS series, Feal, and AZC.
  3. Rotate the front tires to the rear, that is an easy check. If you replaced the rack then I am guessing you replaced the rod ends? The Z steering linkage isn't too complicated, if you follow the route from the wheels back to steering wheel there are only a few things that can cause a shimmy or shake. If you let go of the steering wheel can you feel a shake in the seat/floor?
  4. My only guess is that the manufacturer is sharing tooling between similar brakes and disregarding the OE sealing method. I even measured the piston diameter to confirm they were the correct calipers. Who knows, but they work great now just something others should watch out for is buying aftermarket I suppose.
  5. Well I ended up getting the NCRCAs and T3 front triangulated bar installed. Two new tie rods and a fresh alignment (2mm toe out) in the front, I did find that the rear has a pretty big toe in issue. Nothing I can do about that at the moment but the tires don't seem to upset so I will just run with it. I did some more cage work in the mid and rear including a welded STB and connecting the main hoop to the roof rails. I still want to tie the front of the rockers to the frame rails and up to the strut towers but can't find time. The car feels extremely tight and planted now even a lower speed. The Hawk HT-10s should help in the braking department and give me more confidence. The biggest change though was an unexpected engine rebuild. I started to loose a rod bearing so why not just rebuild the whole thing and give it more power. I followed COMPs XE274 cammed vortec build and holy S does this thing scream now. I can tell I will easily be 30 mph faster down the back straight just based on how fast 4th gear is over. I plan to do some logging this weekend but I am estimating that 40-90mph in 4th takes less than 6 seconds which is roughly my hairpin exit speed. I haven't tested 5th gear out yet since I am only running up and down the highway and try to keep things safe and reasonable but if it pulls anything like 4th I will easily be over 130mph before I need to get on the brakes. Only two weeks left until proving day.
  6. A set of 240SX lines and banjo bolts did the trick. 🤔
  7. Absolutely awesome work. That is certainly the crux of the gm v8 swaps. I spent more on my t5 setup than my engine rebuild and I know it is temporary while I keep adding to my T56 fund, waiting for the t5 to blow up. Interested to see the final results.
  8. I agree with the others, I would never discourage someone from doing the swap but I think many, like me, fall for the illusion that getting the engine in to the bay is the hard part. That is the easy part, there are so many random bolts and fittings that cause delays I bet I have 3 boxes of swap parts that "should have been correct". Also rent/buy a 3 ton engine hoist, the small ones will make you want to rip your hair out.
  9. Coming off of a fresh SBC swap that started two years ago and finished the first time last year and second time last week the best advice in the manual is to buy a running/driving car that has the engine and transmission combo you are going to use. I spend $800 on a "rebuilt" engine that lasted 3 races and the oil was full of bearing material, I spent all winter pulling it, rebuilding it, and replacing it. A manual behind an SBC is $$$$ so prepare for that now, I probably spent $1500 on driveline alone. In general just make sure you have at least double what you think you need budget wise. Prepare for the car to be off the road for several weeks if you are doing the work at home. This is your primary vehicle?
  10. Going over the axle is going to be all but impossible with 3" pipe without some crazy welded V or something and or cutting material from the braces. Side exit is always an option but you will really be limited on muffler placement. Also to your concern, side pipes are usually much louder in cabin for various reasons. Unless you are REALLY low you should be fine running it along the stock path. Several local Zs including me are lowered with 3in exhausts and don't have issues. I also don't drive my on bad roads FWIW.
  11. Providing more detail would really help but I fought what may be a similar issue and that is the brake pedal is soft and doesn't feel like it does a whole lot, but if really pound it to the the floor the car will start to slow down. In my case it was the reaction disk. If you didn't touch the front brakes and they are not grabbing this could be why, it is a well documented issue that can show many symptoms. You say you did the rear swap but what else was changed or replaced? did you let the master run out of fluid during the change? If you have a firm pedal and no stopping force then that is a different scenario completely. Air in the lines will result in a soft pedal until you pump it a few times and then it should get firm. Mark your fluid level and pump the brake until your leg falls off, the level should not change.
  12. Miles, yes there is a crush washer installed on both sides. although maybe they need replaced after my attempts to re-seat the hoses. I am going to order a set of 240sx hoses per ZCD suggestion and report back.
  13. Any idea what they were actually for? I got mine from Summit and cross checked at NAPA. I trust those two the most.
  14. Here is the best picture I have on hand. I should have the car up this weekend to get a better one. I talked to ZCD and they suggested that I use Maxima or 240SX lines. Miles, Been there done that, they are all for Maxima calipers not the 280ZX. Both Modern Motorsport and ZCD spec there kits with maxima calipers and lines. I am using custom brackets $$$ with late 280ZX calipers to get the larger pistons. To me it looks like maxima lines will work so I'm not too worried about that. My point is that a new set of 280ZX calipers is threaded for a banjo bolt when that is not the OE connection. The piston was the right size and 280ZX pads fit perfectly. I can make it work no problem, i just want to know what part is wrong because typically if you buy brake calipers and lines for the same model car they work with each other. I didn't mean to drag this out but I hope the answer can help others down the road.
  15. Thanks Miles, don't disagree with you at all. Here is the issue, I bought calipers for an 83ZX that appear to be banjo bolt connections but all the vendors sell 280ZX lines and M10 threaded at both ends. The sealant was just to see if the threads were cut poorly in one component and clearly not the issue. If you check any of the vendors Z specific or otherwise they sell M10 threaded lines for the 280ZX. This tells me: 1 - All the vendors don't know the 280ZX had banjo rear brakes (even a Nissan diagram shows an M10 line so I don't think this is the case.) 2 - New 280ZX calipers are not being made to OE specification on the inlet. I am trying to figure out what lines to buy, that is all.
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