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Coelocanth81

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Coelocanth81 last won the day on January 8

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About Coelocanth81

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    Male
  • Location
    Memphis TN
  • Interests
    Things that fly and things that roll. Also, not crashing.

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  1. Manuals are definitely "yesterday", and so is skill - with all its trials, tribulations, and triumphs. I'll happily keep living in the past. When it's time to give up on driving, I'll just buy a Tesla and let it's unparalleled performance auto-pilot me into a bridge pylon. DCTs are for passengers.
  2. I'm experiencing a metallic clunk sound upon releasing the clutch pedal with the transmission in neutral. There is no groaning or squeaking, so I think my throwout bearing is ok. Clutch hydraulics are brand new, and the pedal is adjusted per the FSM. I can actually feel the clunk in the shift lever, and it occurs just prior to full clutch pedal release. I replaced the hydraulics because the pedal was soft, and master cylinder seal was failing. I thought maybe the hydraulics were causing a clutch drag, but now I'm not sure that was the problem. Reverse has been grinding upon engagement. Anyone
  3. I have a '76 280z that has received a 5 speed swap prior to my owning it. Did the 5 speed transmissions even have a "top gear switch" for the purpose of advancing the distributor? I'm thinking about removing the vacuum switching valve when I rebuild my fuel rail.
  4. I appreciate it, Cary. This thread got a little sideways there for a minute. I didn't see what happened on the other one. Agreed. It seems perilous for a manufacturer to let the users control that narrative. Hopefully some more information will be forthcoming.
  5. So, 280Z heater cores have been unavailable for a while now. I've been told a Ford Escort heater core will fit, but I'm unsure of the year. There's also Brassworks - who can reproduce one for the cost of 400 dollars shipped. Anybody got any suggestions?
  6. Like engine swaps, I view this suspension package as a fairly substantial re-invention of the car. I was looking at the AlterKtion suspension/steering package for the late 60's early 70's Mopars in much the same way. To some extent, you give up the very essence of a car the moment you dream of further empowering it. Mike Kelly talked about how far his project had taken him from the simple joy of driving a stock Z, and there's no doubt about how far one could go down the rabbit hole. I might try to pick Ohm's brain a bit more. I really don't want to trouble him too much - as I'm no
  7. Race cars are controlled by the rules established for each class, so there are as many "fastest Z's" as there are classes. Obviously, we wouldn't have a cottage industry built around modifying the stock design if it went out and won every race in showroom form. There's a lot of thoughts about how the Track Attack design "looks", but so far we haven't conclusively laid out any specific ways in which the design is deficient. Since we don't know much, let's start with what we do: 1: There could be noise, harshness, and durability issues due to the large number of heim
  8. Depending on the design. If the pivot swingarm has different attachment points for the shock and strut-rod, then the leverage ratio of the spring and shock are adjustable. In doing this however, you’d want to optimize the wheel travel to match the full travel range of the spring and strut. There's likely only one ideal placement point for the respective items on the pivot, so a wide range of adjustment options may not prove as useful as they initially seem on paper.
  9. Very good advice indeed! He also taught us to not “fall in love” with a design, and be open to continuous improvement and criticism.
  10. For a street car, excessive noise could be a show-stopper. I watched that video, but I’m not sure that the racket we were hearing was actually coming from the interior strut assembly. It sure would be nice to get some in-car footage of a running setup to know for sure, though. As for weight - I’m not certain what the apples to apples weight comparison is between a stock Z suspension and the track attack components. As long as the weight goes towards strengthened components and improved suspension articulation, I wouldn’t mind it - although, as a 2+2 owner with factory A/C, the lig
  11. That's what I counted, too. I definitely feel that the design leans on them a bit much for my purposes. The cost of those R-joints are eye-watering - I think I'd only put them in locations that are external - leaving the interior joints to regular hiem joints - as they won't be subject to contamination inside the car. With respect to the noise, I'd bet shock valving would be audible if there were no slack in the joints. Being outside the car, we never hear the noise that our struts make, but I can promise you they're not completely silent. The open hole in the top of the s
  12. If I remember correctly, R-joints use some kind of spring-loaded tapered sleeve that has a self-tightening effect to prevent slop as the joint wears. I also wanna say that the sleeves were grooved to promote a self-cleaning effect, and are made of Delrin(?) instead of teflon. They're definitely not sealed, but if they have the ability to shed/reject grit, it might bear some fruit for reliability. I agree with about their claims on poly bushings. If they're lubed correctly, they'll stay quiet. They've got a point about increased bushing "stiction" reducing the suspension performanc
  13. Thanks for posting this - I could've sworn that there had been an attempt at a pushrod linkage suspension before...
  14. I was considering this as well. I've got nothing against the McPherson strut design - I'm just trying to maximize the inboard wheel clearance. It occurs to me that the inner front wheel clearance limitation on a stock system with coil-overs might actually be the inner fender (when the wheels are turned), and not the spring/strut assembly. In this case, I'd be happy to retain an improved version of the factory front suspension. This is just me thinking out loud. Any takers?
  15. I'm not sure there's any reason you couldn't mix and match. They appear to be highly customizable for various configurations - although, I'm still trying to get some feedback from someone who's actually got it installed and running. For a street car, my main concern is the abundant use of Heim joints. These are fantastic on a race car, but they're a bit firm on the street, and are subject to damage from contamination. I'm looking into the possibility of getting the kit, and substituting Ridetech R-joints in all the external locations to help mitigate that. My primary interest in t
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