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Coelocanth81

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Coelocanth81 last won the day on January 8

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About Coelocanth81

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    Memphis TN
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    Things that fly and things that roll. Also, not crashing.

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  1. Depending on the design, yes. If the pivot swingarm has different attachment points for the shock and strut-rod, then the leverage ratio of the shock is adjustable. In doing this however, you’d want to optimize the wheel travel to match the travel range of the specific spring and strut combination in use, as to not create the potential for overheating the strut. In this ideal configuration, there is only one optimum placement point for the respective items on the swingarm, so a wide range of adjustment options may not prove as useful as they seem.
  2. Very good advice indeed! He also taught us to not “fall in love” with a design, and be open to continuous improvement and criticism.
  3. For a street car, excessive noise could be a show-stopper. I watched that video, but I’m not sure that the racket we were hearing was actually coming from the interior strut assembly. It sure would be nice to get some in-car footage of a running setup to know for sure, though. As for weight - I’m not certain what the apples to apples weight comparison is between a stock Z suspension and the track attack components. As long as the weight goes towards strengthened components and improved suspension articulation, I wouldn’t mind it - although, as a 2+2 owner with factory A/C, the lightweight train departed the station before my arrival! Haha..
  4. That's what I counted, too. I definitely feel that the design leans on them a bit much for my purposes. The cost of those R-joints are eye-watering - I think I'd only put them in locations that are external - leaving the interior joints to regular hiem joints - as they won't be subject to contamination inside the car. With respect to the noise, I'd bet shock valving would be audible if there were no slack in the joints. Being outside the car, we never hear the noise that our struts make, but I can promise you they're not completely silent. The open hole in the top of the strut tower might also be an inlet for exterior noise, depending on how it gets sealed.
  5. If I remember correctly, R-joints use some kind of spring-loaded tapered sleeve that has a self-tightening effect to prevent slop as the joint wears. I also wanna say that the sleeves were grooved to promote a self-cleaning effect, and are made of Delrin(?) instead of teflon. They're definitely not sealed, but if they have the ability to shed/reject grit, it might bear some fruit for reliability. I agree with about their claims on poly bushings. If they're lubed correctly, they'll stay quiet. They've got a point about increased bushing "stiction" reducing the suspension performance. The upside of a bushing is also in the fact that it has some slop in it - which can save components from breaking in the event you hit a pothole in a turn, or some other "feature" that wouldn't exist on a properly groomed road course. In the end, I feel like a street car could definitely benefit from poly bushings over hiem joints in numerous locations. They gotta make a sales pitch, I suppose.
  6. Thanks for posting this - I could've sworn that there had been an attempt at a pushrod linkage suspension before...
  7. I was considering this as well. I've got nothing against the McPherson strut design - I'm just trying to maximize the inboard wheel clearance. It occurs to me that the inner front wheel clearance limitation on a stock system with coil-overs might actually be the inner fender (when the wheels are turned), and not the spring/strut assembly. In this case, I'd be happy to retain an improved version of the factory front suspension. This is just me thinking out loud. Any takers?
  8. I'm not sure there's any reason you couldn't mix and match. They appear to be highly customizable for various configurations - although, I'm still trying to get some feedback from someone who's actually got it installed and running. For a street car, my main concern is the abundant use of Heim joints. These are fantastic on a race car, but they're a bit firm on the street, and are subject to damage from contamination. I'm looking into the possibility of getting the kit, and substituting Ridetech R-joints in all the external locations to help mitigate that. My primary interest in this kit is the potential for gaining inboard tire clearance beyond what is possible with a McPherson strut system with coil-overs installed. I'm trying to minimize the amount of fender flaring that will be required for tires in a 275 to 315 width range.
  9. I'm the OP, and it's more a measure of my patience than tardiness, I promise. . Excellent. Can you please expand on what you specifically don't like about it? I'm genuinely picking your brain here. I completely subscribe to your point about the recipient vehicle. In my case, I'm building a car that will be 85% street and 15% track driven. It's a pure hobby project. I'm estimating about 600 horsepower, and I want to get as much tire on the ground as possible under mildly flared steel fenders (no bolted or bonded-on kit fenders). I liken my end goal to being something like a BMW M series - a street-friendly sleeper that's equal parts sport car, and muscle car. I intend to get as much performance as possible out of the vehicle without eliminating the factory interior, and rendering it unrecognizable as a Datsun 280Z. I realize these are opposed goals, but finding a happy balance between them is the challenge I'm most excited by.
  10. I'm just trying to learn some things, and create a relevant thread for the discussion of this suspension upgrade - preferably from people who have some experience with the kit. Got any contributions besides snide remarks about a fellow hobbyist's project goals? Cheers. This thread is NOT about Porsche. They have their own message boards. If you have no knowledge or interest pertaining to the Apex Engineered Track Attack suspension, please refrain from posting.
  11. Thanks for bringing that up! I'd like to learn a bit more about this point. I was also thinking that those control arms were a bit short. Admittedly, I was excited by the tire clearance made from the inward relocation of the strut - as I plan to try to keep the fender flares minimal. Point taken. As for the weight, the mounting for the struts/springs doubles as a strut tower brace - which I would have installed anyway. As a 2+2 owner with factory A/C, I'm probably not as worried about the final weight as someone who's aiming for a pure race machine. I'm probably a bit of an oddball on this forum.
  12. Very true... When drawing the lines on functionality, the margins get pretty slim when door bars and multi-point harnesses come into play. I'll leave factory seatbelts in place for convenience, but I think I'm going to try to keep some type of welded door bars in the picture. My thoughts are that if someone won't/can't enter the car because of the door bar, then it's not the car I should be giving them a ride in - door bars or otherwise. I'll have to reserve the Datsun passenger seat for those who are excited by it. For everyone else, I've got a comfy daily driver that'll do just fine.
  13. No offense fellas, but a 280z is in my garage, so that's what I intend to work with. If I were looking to second guess my ownership and/or consider a Miata or Porsche, I'd hit up the forums at Zcar.com. Now - about the AE Track Attack suspension... Resume.
  14. The Australian "LS" V-12 is indeed the one I'm eyeing. I'm looking at the aluminum block option, which has a slightly smaller displacement (9.2 as opposed to 9.5). All told, I think it weighs around 650lbs, fully dressed. Definitely heavier than an alloy V8, but on par with the DOHC turbo inline 6 offerings - so I'm not too worried about the weight. Besides, I'm reaching an age now where I'm more interested in air conditioning than in shaving off all the fat. As for the partial cage, I think it's mostly for peace of mind. The idea of a side-impact on that chassis terrifies me. Secondly, having length-wise tubular structure that's triangulated to the car's floor rails would create a "box frame" that's 18 or so inches high - bracing the tops of all 4 strut towers. I liken it to the biplanes in WW1. The upper wing wasn't necessarily for more lift - it was there to create a stronger structure by bracing it to the lower wing. For what it's worth, that's the logic behind my thoughts.
  15. ...until one of you lunatics pulls it off. This is a challenge. 1st person to do it should get a lifetime supply of Fosters (Australian for beer). http://racecast.com.au/?v=3a1ed7090bfa
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