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I think he understood you. I dont think he cares.

Thanks for posting the article. Although I am taking my own path that involves a bit more cleaning and replacement of higher wear items, I share a very similar build mentality. My dad and his friends made alot of HUGE contributions to my build that will likely keep my total SBC conversion somewhere around $2000-$2500. Being in no rush to finish a project and having a well defined budget seems to be the best circumstances for saving money.

I can find many reasons to hate on it, but Im not gonna lead you to beleive I was straight faced when I watched it. It kept my attention and made me laugh! I hope it improves as well, but its not bad.

Since my 78 280z is basically the oldest vehicle I have ever driven, I never thought much of the crappy brakes. Plus I only drove the car a few times before it was gutted for a JTR style chevy conversion. While cleaning up the brake booster I heard the disc rattling around inside. I shook it out instead of trying to open up the brake booster. It didn't take long for that thing to fall out. I roughed up the metal and the rubber a little bit and super glued the pieces together. Good to know the brakes wont be so crappy after adding a few horses.

Sounds great! What was the change from the edelbrock to the holley carb like? You had a really good chance to compare the two.

Most of the work you see on this site is far from "crucial" Nothing wrong with that.

How true is this?

I have searched, but its difficult because the search function doesnt allow for terms less than two characters long. Adding "T5" to the search terms isnt allowed. Simply searching for "slave cylinder" brnigs up ALOT of unrelated topics. Thanks for the input though.

Is there any reason you guys are avoiding the use of an aftermarket slave cylinder from Autozone? IS fitment really that much of an issue as to resort to a pull style slave cylinder? There is an aluminum bodied SC made by Brakeware that is about $40 at autozone. Part number 10380. A quick good search yielded good reports from camaro owners who were looking to replace the plastic junk. I havent done a test fit with my T5, but the JTR manual would have me believe a stock style slave cylinder would work fine.

Beat me to it!! Are you a cyclist too? Im a mountain biker, but I follow all disciplines. Im a bicycle mechanic

It looks/sounds like a quick swap in a so-so shell. I wouldnt want to have to deal with somebody elses short cuts and half-assed jobs. You already have a z and wouldnt even use the shell? Thats even more reason to stay away in my opinion. The engine mount kit can be had cheaply enough (new or used) and a motor with a known/solid history and build quality goes a long way in my mind...

Ok, so im right in the middle of a SBC swap into a 78 280z. I am far from being in a situation where I can actually think about spending money on cosmetic details, but i guess you could say Im planning ahead. I eventualy want new wheels. I really like the look of some steel truck wheels. My z is dark brown and would (IMO) look killer with some simple steel wheels. Just an example of the look I like: They are cheap, available, and they arent common (on z's at least)... Is there any reason I shouldnt go with something like this? It wont be a track car, its not going to be paticularly high performance, but if the weight of a wheel makes a big enough deal I may consider other options. Maybe there is another aspect im overlooking? The fact that I rarely see these type of wheels on cars makes me think there is some good reason that I shouldnt be using them... Can you manage to talk me out of steel wheels?

I am in the process of cleaning up my engine bay for a total covering of POR15 and was wondering what you guys did for some of the undercoating that has made its way into the engine compartment. Towards the TC rod connection points on the frame rails there is a thick coating of what looks to be and undercoating of some kind. The coating is easy to dig into with my fingernail, but I cant figure out how to remove the stuff easily.

Im definitely a novice here on the boards, but I do recall in the JTR manual it mentions that aftermarket engine mounts can use a harder compound rubber than a stock GM engine mount thus causing more vibration in the car. What engine mounts are you using? I suppose more details would have to be given to us in order to rule out possibilities though.

In what quantities did you purchase your POR 15 products and how did it end up for you? And where did you purchase them if you don't mind me asking?