240z!!!

either ecu you use will need a tune to run the rb right...i actually had a friend that had a rb25 running off of a z32tt ecu and it ran fine without a tune(not great just fine).... z32tt and na ecu's are the same just different maps z32 ecu will support the vvt on the rb25 early z32 ecu's are 8 bit later are 16 bit...you want to get the earlier one really the only thing to get it to work with a rb25 is put a resistor where the z32's fuel temp sensor was or it will run rich the z32 uses 2 02 sensors while the rb uses 1 so you'll have to figure out how to send 2 signals to the ecu or splice the 1 o2 to send both signals and of coarse you'll have to repin a few wires either way these somewhat of a tune required and the rb series dont have much support for cheap and reliable tuning like the z32 has... and you could probably use a automatic z32 harness but it will have heavy wiring modifications...id stick with the 5 speed harness for ease

is the rb25 a s1 or a s2...if its a s1 you should be able to use a rb20's harness with some modifications...but the cheapest route to go is probably the z32 harness and z32 ecu...you can modify the z32 harness to work and if you get nistune(if you wanted the chance to tune) for the z32 ecu it will work for the rb25 nistune's cheap like 250 bucks plus a z32 harness is maybe 200 so 450...thats cheaper than purchasing just the wiring harness for a rb25... but (someone correct me if im wrong) im pretty sure the ecu connecter's for the rb25 and rb20 and if you used the rb20 ecu you'd have to get a tune for it to run the rb25... but either way there is wiring to be done with any harness other than using the rb25 harness

and if running the stock efi would would have to have this if not your ecu will think the motor is cold and over fuel it at all times...

He said it was from a 83 if its a non turbo wouldnt it be flattop pistons? Thats what i thought

Yeah that cam would be very excessive for stock efi. Megasquirt would probably be an option. The only other problem with the setup is that these motors due to combustion camber size cannot take a lot of compression without detonation. With a 1mm headgasket you would have 10.433 compression...So you would probably want to run a 2mm headgasket which would yield you 9.406:1 comp. unless this car is gonna be a track car with high octane fuel of coarse. Also the e31 head doesnt have injector notches in the intake runners and they will have to be drimeled in, and as for them running 25 lbs. of fuel pressure they must have been running a 4 barrel car of some type(su's only need 5-7ish) Oh and for reference http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

wow sweet z...your making guys come out of the wood work just to say what a great car it is....i hope i can get my 300 in the 10's ....have you been sponsored? maybe something to look into cause if i was a dealer for parts i would 100% sponsor you

ive been messing with z cars to long...but the steering wheel should be a wood composite wheel...not the leather covered which came in 260z,280z and the same with the door panels passanger side has fake wood trim piece and a one piece arm rest...original 240z door panels had a chrome trim piece and a smaller flat arm rest and a "oh sh#$ handle attached to the passanger door... yeah to long ive been messing with z's

if your talking about actually getting a ld28 good luck, anyone who knows what the cranks are worth you cant find a crappy motor for under 800, best bet is junkyards, cause they dont know what they have...the car motors were only in 3 or 4 years of the maxima diesel but you can find them in old fork lifts and stuff

if it was me id go back to that original racing green...its my favorite factory color.... good looking project...should be fun... on a side note...are you gonna pull out that 260z,280z interior out of that thing cause it looks out of place...and i have 240z wood steering wheel and 240z black door panels if your interested

just about every aftermarket rod including eagle comes with arp rod bolts or comparable hardware

i never said it couldnt be done...with a really good tuner and absolutely no detonation its very possible...even with a crappy tune its possible for a while...but sooner or later somethings gonna happen...and i wouldnt want invested money destroyed just because $300 dollar rods weren't replaced...

450whp is very dangerous in a ka with stock rods that is near there failure point and should be avoided...the trannys dont like that much power either...300 should be fine on stock rods and will be no problem at all with eagle rods on 300 hp because the rods are rated at 900hp as long as you dont run the motor dry on oil or overheat...ive seen a set of eagle rods in a blown ka that got overheated the rods were discolored but it only warped them so little that they were machined out true and reused ...