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Ferd/289

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Posts posted by Ferd/289

  1. What I have found is that as long as there is paint on the car enough so that can lightly compound without revealing undercoat, you can almost always renew to great extent. First paint 'scrub' (removes small scratches and oxidation), then polish then seal with wax or urethane covering then you can really bring out the shine.

    I use the maguire 'deep crystal' multi (3) step process. First 'body scrub', then 'polish', then 'wax' ie the last step you can use their carnuba wax. If the body scrub dosn't satisfy, take 'white' compound by dupont follow their directions and then follow with Meguiars product.

    If you have a random orbit waxer/polisher (change pads often) use it as it will save time and do a better job. Once your paint is satifactory, you can use a product called 'Finish 2001" which is a urethane enriched wax like covering. I have been using for years and it really lasts ( 1 year ) and protects paint. I apply by hand then remove with RO polisher. Change terry cloth pads often.

    Hope this helps. Autoparts stores have these products. Finish 2001 is a distributed by Turtle wax. BTW, plain liquid turtlewax once your paint is clear really works amazingly well also.

    Ferd

  2. Nice set up and I like your rail motor mounts. Your 100 amp alternator is not putting out 100 amps probably until your engine is revving at a higher level2000=3000 rpm's. This is why your engine slows. You can probably find out the rpm's versus amp output from the manufacturer and maybe substitute a different pulley. Also, if your battery is depleted your alternator will 'turn harder' until battery is charged. So you might make sure your battery is fully charged.

     

    Quick question...is your timing marker a small cast in nub on the timing chain cover or is it a bolted on metal pointer on the passenger side of the engine?

    I am curious since my '66 289 has a cast-in nub.

    Ferd

  3. I mounted my ignition box inside the car. Its on the upper front of the passenger side of the car. Its high enough so passenger's feet do not hit it and its easy to change the rev limiter chips from inside the car.

    It fits nicely and I dont have to worry about the heat of the engine, water from rain etc..

    Ferd

  4. I am wondering if anyone has used '3M Imperial Compound and Finishing Material' for use on paint or bare aluminum surfaces. It is sold as a marine product I presume for fiberglass. I bought it for my boat but did not use.

     

    I am wondering if I can use this type of compound material as a step to enhance 1 stage Acrylic paint finish after wet sanding, and/or bare aluminum sheet finish before polishing.

     

    The bottle says its for use to remove P600-P800 DA or P1000-P1200 sand scratches wih a wool compounding pad at 2500-1500 rpm.

     

    3M says its for a "fast cut, swirl free, high gloss finish"

     

    Ferd

  5. I was thinking of adding A/C to my '77Z-1966 SBF. Car has no A/C components as yet, and interior is totally stripped. Does it make sense to 'salvage yard out' a full A/C system from lets say a late model mustang? I guess I would need a condensor, evaporator, lines, expansion valve, dryer, etc. Any ideas on brackets for SBF block. Vents?? I would to install 134R type. Maybe there are kits for custom cars, any recommendations.

    Ferd

  6. Lets remember:

    - Chip is great and learned a lot from his dad who was a hot rod builder

    - Boyd C. (yes is an ****ole ) BUT! he did step up the art form for his time to a much higher level ,,Nes Pas. I think he needs a better Public Relations Manager.

    Ferd

  7. I am thinking of adding a welding station, i.e. steel table to be used for welding, to my garage area. I heard that a 3x5 foot, 1/2 inch thick steel table top would work, along with steel legs. Any advice on construction, ie legs type of steel etc.

    Ferd

  8. I did a HybridZ search on Auto-Air paints and noticed that there was some interest a couple of months ago.

    I read an article in 'Mustangs and Fast Fords' mag that briefly mentioned that they recommend using Auto Air Paints at home for the base coats, then take to a shop for urethane clear coat finishing. This sounded really neat to try for a home based painter not wanting breath isocyanates. I read some posts in made in 8/05 and wondered if there is any more experience with these paints. I think RacerX was thinking of using for a home project

    Ferd

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