Jump to content
HybridZ

Ferd/289

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    240

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Ferd/289

    What is this Hybrid worth?

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    assume the engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Texas cars usually have less rust than cars from northern states. However,,, A NOS engine driven for 'several years' is most likely shot. It may not be, but if you assume the worst you will not pay more than its worth. Of course a leak down test would clear up the mystery.

    BTY, You cant get hurt for around $5K imo. The car looks like it has lots of decent parts especially the interior. Hope this helps.

    Ferd

    timing cover timing casting on 289

    in Ford V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    I have what looks like a cast aluminum alloy timing cover on my 1966/289ci engine. I did not build the engine so I am not sure if this is a stock cover.

    Cast in it, is a 1.5 inch protrusion ( the size of thick golf tee ) pointing foward, on the 'drivers side' by cylinder 5. On the tip of this casting, it has a cast-in line (about 3/8's long, and pencil thin ) at the tip as if it could be used as a timing mark since it lines up closly with the damper markings (again by cylinder 5).

    My block currently does not have a timing pointer installed so I am about to buy one and install it on the passanger side of the block where I thought it belongs.

    Anyone know what I have here. Can I use the protrusion as a timing marker?

    Ferd

    The Classic "Best"

    in Ford V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    For a Ford engine its hard to beat 289/302. Its is narrow and lighter than other engines and you can get 350HP. There are lots of aftermarket parts and salvage yard capability. I owned a 84 300ZX with a stock NA engine, nice car but slower than I would have liked. A Ford V8 installed in your car would make a nice street rod. Couple to a T5 or maybe keep the nissan tranny.

    Other things to think about;

    -would a 'cammer' ford fit ( they are pretty wide on top )

    -stroker kit or not

    -

    rear latch cover strut mitylift replacement

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    I just replaced two OEM struts in my Lexus by using in-home modified Mitylift brand struts. Saved lots of money by not buying Toyota replacements. Has anyone figured out the Mitylift replacement part numbers so I can replace my Datsun Z rear hatch struts. Basically you reuse the original ball joint fixtures from the car, and reattach with Mitylift struts. It seems to be a perfect replacement.

    Ferd

    I need Cross threading advice

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    happened to me once. I called a carb place and they had a bunch of spares. I bought the right part for the carb in my case it was the entire top part of a rochester z28 carb since I striped the integral gas filter casting. Talk to a carb rebuilder they may have spares cheap.

    Ferd

    Pics of the Lip for my metal 1/4's

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    looks like you are using aluminum sheet? If so can you tell me the type ie 3003 h14 or what. Also, if it is Aluminum sheet, wont it react to the original sheet steel when you tack weld the pieces together? Also, if it is sheet steel what guage are you using, looks like 20. You ahve put a really nice design for the 1/4 panel it should look dynamite when its done.

    Ferd

    high carbon thin steel

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    Later model Japanese cars have a higher carbon content and thinner guage of steel than american models. I have not done any panel beating on this type of metal myself. Is it really that different and should fixing dents etc be done differently?

    Ferd

    paint guys.. to much of the same color????

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    FWIW, know what, I am not a color coordinator by any means, however I think your concern is valid. I think too many shades of blue accented with black may look unprofessional. The best advice I ever got on choosing color is to go look at lots of custom/kustom car mags and go to auto shows to see what others have done. For me its hard to visualize the end product.

    Ferd

    Underbody/interior rubberized coating removal

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    water based undercoating comes off with repeated wet coats of automotice paint stripper but petroleum-based undercoating is nasty stuff to remove. It dissolves in gasoline or lacquer thinner but both of these are highly volatile and toxic substances. the safest and easiest way to remove it is to heat the panel from the back using a propane torch to soften the coating then scrape it off using a putty knife. wear a respirator and work outdoors while removing the undercoating. keep a fire extinguisher handy too. Only heat the panel enough to soften the undercoating a little. you can easily oil-can and ruin panels if you get them too hot. try just a little heat, than scrape imediately before the panels cool. You dont need to get every vestage of of undercoating off this way. Just scrape the thick deposits. When you have scraped off the worst of the undercoating come back with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner and wash of the rest of it. Wear neoprene gloves while working dont smoke and dispose of the oily residue according to local environmental laws. Keep the rag soaked with thinner and keep turning it as you wipe the area down. When the panel is as clean as you can get it. wipe the panel down again with a good grease remover such as Eastwoods Pre. After that go over the panel with Eastwoods Metal Wash which further removes grease and contaminants and leaves behind a rust preventitive coating that helps paint adhesion and prevents surface rust until you finish your body work and can paint the panel. Panel should be ok for a few days but should be painted or primed with epoxy primer which is moister proof.

    Ferd.

×
×
  • Create New...