waynekarnes

take a look inside street rodder magazine. there are probably 15 different style of hugger headers advertised there. among that crowd, the sanderson's are the most desireable. take a look at em, you can get em ceramic coated from the factory. wayne

take a look inside street rodder magazine. there are probably 15 different style of hugger headers advertised there. among that crowd, the sanderson's are the most desireable. take a look at em, you can get em ceramic coated from the factory. wayne

the cfm would be the same. issue is, that tunnel ram is only good for rpms above 4 grand. not designed for around town, low rpm driving. meant for full on, full throttle operation. the high rise ( depending upon the design ), usually produces more horsepower and torque, than the factory manifold. a good street driven manifold, comes in around 1500 and pulls through roughly 4500 rpm, the normal range of most spirited daily driving. some manifolds start performing around 2500 and pull through around 6200 rpm. this would be for a cammed engine, headers, worked heads, ect. not a fun engine to be stuck in traffic with. you looking for instant on, instant off, acceleration, get the tunnel ram. looking for something to improve gas mileage, increase the fun ratio, and response of your stock or slightly warmed over engine, get a dual plane high rise, 1500 to 4500 high rise manifold. don't fall for the " if a little is better, too much is just right" way of doing things, on a street driven car. moderation is the key to a successful, fast, fun daily driver, street car. want to build an all out race car, that you sneak out once a week, get the tunnel ram, ect. be way fun, for a while anyway. til your stuck in traffic, with a clutch set up so stiff, that your left leg starts shaking, stop-go, stop-go, temp gauge starts climbing, and no one moving to let you over to the shoulder as the radiator pukes. that big flat spot, caused by the tunnel ram, makes it impossible for you to smoothly pull up in line with the slow moving traffic, plus that fabulous smell of burning peanuts, as you smoke yet another clutch disc and pressure plate, as you slip the clutch, to keep the engine from loading up and dieing, while you inch forward. tell you, i have owned "way too fast". super quick and reliable, is much more fun, in a street beast. but you didn't ask that.... 850 cfm, tunnel ram VS. high rise. 850 cfm is 850 cfm, but think ... this way ... a gallon of milk in a jug, being poured into a glass VS. a gallon of milk sprayed out of a fire hose. both still a gallon of milk, just delivered differently. how do you want your milk delivered ???

regarding the body shop quote of 1500. that's a bit on the low side, BUT ... i have a friend that owns a body shop in san jose ca. she tells me, that things are really slow now. people get estimates, and then keep the insurance money. things are tight, jobs aren't coming into the shop. she's been taking in jobs, sometimes, just to break even, so that her painters and bodyworkers, don't start looking for work at another shop. she's done 4 paint jobs, where it covered, materials, labor and the cost running the shop, no profit, but it keeps the doors open. the body shop, where you got that quote, may be doing the same. ask em. by the by,my friend's shop painted the batmobile. the one that was in the last batman movie ... think the movie was called, batman forever.

one more in san jose. 350/300 chevy. m21 4 speed, scarab style 72 z car. stock body, stock wheels, 280z hub caps. thus far, it thinks it's a fiat. been working since feb to convince it, that it's a 240z. so, far i am on the end of a lossing battle . wayne

no idea what gremlins caused this trouble to begin with ... went out last night, in the cover of darkness, pulled the coil wire off at the cap, laid it on the aluminum intake, my son cranked the engine over. big fat, blue spark from coil wire to the manifold. loud, hear it across the street, crack of the electrical whip as the spark lit up under the hood. plugged back into the cap, no spark out of cap to plug wire. retested coil wire ( several times ), brilliant spark everytime. so now, trouble shooting suggests, faulty cap or rotor. both have less than an hour run time, b4 the valve job. will see if i can get some time this weekend to mess with it. thanks for all the support !!! ordered the flame thrower II coil anyway. if i can't get this set up to work, Lewis made me a good offer of buying his HEI, msd set up, including the plug wires ... 130 bucks. wayne

Don, thanks ... have a good ground at the dist. body, was the 1st thing i checked. musta forgot to mention that. the pertronix ignitor II module is grounded ( zero ohms to the neg post of the battery ). i have 12 volts in to coil, 10 v at cranking. i have 10 volts interrupted at the neg post of the coil. have 28 volts out of the coil lead to the dist cap. 28 volts directly at the coil lead hole of the coil. there is 3 volts out of the spark plug wire connection of the cap ( number 7 ). seems to me should be more like 40K volts ... i'm thinking either toasted the pertronix, though it says it's self protecting. or the coil is bad. odd is, outside the bad head, ran fine. stick arm through open window, crank engine over fired right up. i had already ordered a coil on line, from Retro Rockets, on sunday, explained my reason for buying a coil. today ( monday ) Carl wrote back, wanted me to run a few more tests B4 he sent me a coil i might not need. imagine that !!! could have just sent me the coil ... is that customer service or what ??? oh, and they pay the shipping as well ... beat that thanks for the advise, really appreciate it, i'm standing in the driveway with my hands, palms up raised to the sky, shoulders shrugging ... wayne

yeap ... it had spark long enough to make one pop. i have no doubt, that the timing is off. i eye balled the rotor to number one, the timing mark was on tdc. i rotated the dist all over the place, didn't make a bit of difference, that's when i checked for spark, and found there wasn't any. odd, there was when i first cranked it over, or there wouldn't have been a pop !!! i hate gremlins ... i could deal with getting the timing correct if i still had spark. could deal with popping back through the carbm would give me a starting point. thing is, no spark, i can't tell if out of time, valves not set right, dist 180 degrees out, of if all i need to do is closer on the timing. once i get some sparks flying, i can check the other stuff. problem is, with the pertronix, i'm looking into a black box. it has a red and a black wire, that disappear into a sealed module. i'm sure the mount for the mod is the ground. i checked that, all seems fine. i have a spare dist. buried in a box somewhere in the garage, i'm tempted to see if i can find it, drop it in and see what happens. it's a F.I. dist from my vette, has an oil line input so the bearings don't seize, i'd have to careful not to run it too long. other thing is, it's been sitting for over 15 years, it'll need a tune up. irritating, it ran b4 i took it apart, put it back together and now it won't start. i have to be over looking something, or i have a flaky module.

rotor is turning, checked the ground, dist. had good ground 9 ohm meter ). coil wire is good ( ohm meter ), put ohm meter across coil Rx1 shows 1.5 ohms. web site shows that as being good/compatible with igintor II. i have 12 volts at the coil, when in run position, 12 volts when cranking. ran directly off the batt to the red of the pertronix ignitor II ( as per trouble shooting guide, still no spark. it ran before i remove it ( gotta pull the dist. to remove the manifold to remove the heads ... though years ago, just to show i could do it ... know it all, pain in the arse. wise guy tells me can't pull the heads without removing the dist. yes, you can ... i pulled both heads without removing the manifold/ dist. ). any way, that's why i pulled the dist. to get the heads off, had nothing to do with the cam ( that comes later ). it had a nasty tapping ... carbon, weak springs, and the shop found one head was cracked. i bought the car with the tapping issue. i added the pertronix, before i tackled the tapping problem, wanted to be sure it worked b4 i tore the engine apart. ( so much for that idea ). the engine would start, and run, b4 the valve job, just reach hand through the window and turn the key, fired right up . clattered like a mad man was playing a xylophone under the hood, with a sledge hammer, but still it ran fine. now, no spark. i pulled the dist as a unit. removed the spark plug wires, disconnected the wiring at the coil, unbolted the clamp, pulled straight up and into a zip lock bag. out back in, cranked it over, POP, through the carb and that was that. i'm wondering if the zip lock bag was the killer ??? static electricity wiped out the electronics ??? i really don't think so, but that's the only thing i can think of now. will call pertronix on monday ... any more advise, please throw it my way ... wayne

was running b4 valve job. stock dist. stock coil. have 12 v at + of coil, even ran wire direct off + of batt. was running great b4 valve job ( had a cracked head, and cylinders were full of carbon ). i'm pretty sure that i'm not 180 off on the dist. when hooked back up, cranked over, one poof out the carb, and that was it, engine free wheels like no spark plug in the holes, no spark from the coil to the cap. put a meter to the coil wire, nada, no juice. as i said, the engine was running, with the pertronix igintor II before the valve job. i disconnected the wires from the coil ( red on +, black on - ) pulled the dist. put it in a zip lock bag. engine all back together ( 350 chevy ), reconnect wires ... cranked engine over, got one pop through the carb, and that's it. now, it cranks like no plugs in the holes. and i see no spark. the pertronix website is of no help, it suggests to do all the things i have already done ... the only thing i didn't do was check the gap, of the ring from the module, as i removed cap and all ... never opened it up, figure all that should be the same. even if i was 180 off, i should still have spark ( sure hope i'm not 180 off, already adjusted the hydraulic valves ). i threw the old condensor and points away. i'm tempted to buy new ones as a test, though i'd have to run new wires to them, as they went with the old stuff. HELP !!!! wayne

got a rebuilt 403 olds in the garage. there aren't many speed parts. i believe the 403 has a weak lower end, and oiling issues. i have around 3k in the 403. planned on reusing lots of parts. ex wife inherited bro's 78 trans am. whole lot cheaper to build a chevy, chevy weighs less, and doesn't run as hot ... more info on olds, go to mondellotwister.com mondello is just about the world's expert on oldsmobiles ... now an olds 455 is another story ...

SB 708 was introduced to the calif state senate. SB 708 repeals the current law, exempting vehicles 30 years and older from smog test at registration time. if SB 708 passed only vehicles 45 years and older will be exempt from smog inspections. contact your senator NOW, let your senator know that you oppose SB 708. for info on how to contact your senator call 916 445 4311

some jerk introduced SB 708. SB 708 will repeal the current smog law, exempting vehicles 30 years and older from smog tests at reg renewal time. if SB 708 passes only vehicles 45 years and older will be exempt from the smog test, all others must be tested. you must contact your CA. state senator and let him/her know that you oppose SB 708. if we don't the bad guys win. the rats snuck it in while the economy is bad, and the war is going, they figured sneak it in while you weren't looking. they are real a holes, kick you while you're down. don't let the rats get away with it ... contact your senator call 916 445 4311 for info on how to let your senator know you oppose SB 708

some jerk has introduced senate bill 708 SB 708. SB 708 will repeal the rolling exemption for the annual/biannual smog inspection. under the current law, as of Jan 2003, all vehicles 30 years and older are exempt from the smog test at renewal of registration. If SB 708 passes, only vehicles 45 years or older will be exempt. Means your car WILL need a smog test, will have to PASS the smog test to be legally registered and driven in the state of CA. contact your state senator, let him/her know you oppose SB 708, the a holes snuck this in, while the war is on, thinking you wouldn't notice. if you don't tell your senator to oppose SB 708, the rats win. call 916 445 4311 to find out how to contact your senator !!!

legistration has been introduced by some rat bast^%* to repeal california's current rolling emission test exemption for vehicles 30 years or older. SB 708, will repeal the current exemption, replacing it with one that says vehicles must be 45 yrs. or older to be exempt from the yearly or biannual smog test, starting jan 2005. the current law says that after jan 2003, all vehicles 30 yrs or older are exempt from the annual/biannual smog test. if SB 708 passes, you WILL need to pass a smog test !!! write your state senator and let him/her know that you oppose SB 708. if, you don't write, the bad guys win ... call 916 445 4311 for info on who and how to contact your senator

browse a copy of street rodder magazine. check out the ads. they have tons of different styles of dip stick tubes and attachments.