waynekarnes

as far as the intake is concerned. i was toying with the idea of using TPI on my 73 350. i was told that on the older heads, just elongate the center hole in the manifold and then the newer manifold would fit the older heads. this may be all you need do to fit your existing manifold. wayne

50 is a real good price, i'd have to see if i can find a set for the front, before i can commit. wayne

i wonder who makes that kit, here in california ??? i've been looking for that california kit for about a year. i gave up and started thinking about an air dam, single piece spoiler and the small flares. might even buy those ZG flares. they are growing on me.

no idea what's going on. the message i was typing disappeared as i was typing. no, sorry, not in Canada. i'm in san jose ca. 20 miles north of santa cruz beach and boardwalk. yeah, it's showroom, that it was suggested i avoid. i wanted to buy the california z kit. contacted them and sick in australia. even with shipping, was cheaper to buy from aus. i traded several messages with them. when i asked about the quality, i never heard from them again. was gonna buy from show case, but was strongly advised by about 6 people to avoid doing business with them. so, instead used the money to buy a used G4 dual processor 1.25 Ghz machine, to replace my 5 year old imac ( yes the original imac ).

what shape are they in ? if real nice, you have a deal !

i agree ! classicdatsun.com ... good people ! watches several sites, and has offered his assistance to me, many times. i saw a used set of the ZG flares. if i buy ZG's will get those, otherwise, i want those small fiber glass flares. heard not to buy from that shop in canada. wayne

thanks ! now, have to figure how to get the paint off with out stressing or melting the plastic ... wayne

so, with the ZG flares, you might trim ? i've never really paid much attention to the ZG flares as i never really cared for em, but now, they are growing on me. especially, as they are simple bolts on, like any other cladding. never noticed if anyone trimmed the metal or just bolted em in place. for sure, i would trim if using the glass on flares. how do you think the flares, the small ones from MSA, would look on a stock height 240, with 14x7 wheels ( brand new Konig pana sports or minilites look a likes ) ? thinking of running 225/60-14 tires. think it would hookey at stock height ? currently have 280z wheels and stock hub caps, 205/70-14 T/A's. wayne

on those flares, do you remove any material from the metal fenders, or are these ZG flares just for looks ? i am considering the small fiberglass flares at MSA. my z has rust on the dog legs and the bottom of the front fenders. i have the metal parts to repair the dog legs as well as new metal rocker panels. the front fenders, i can remove and fix, though i do have 2 brand new metal datsun front fenders in my garage. wayne

did a search, found nothing ... air dam, difference between 280Z and 240Z ? it's a urethane air dam can i use a 77 280Z air dam on a 72 240Z ? if not, how much modifcation to make it fit ... thanks, wayne

LOL ... ever since i bought this fiat, people have been suggesting i let them take it off my hands. paid 450 for a dead in the water V8 z. appears to be a home built scarab kit. a friend's uncle built it back in 1976, 77. he gave it to his son. he eventually sold it to his best friend. he did another small block chevy swap ( old for new rebuilt ). drove it for a few years and it broke down. sat for 10 years ( wife ). sold it to me. towed it home, after much debate and various tests, found a cracked head. replaced lifters and the push rods, as long as i was there. valve job on replacement head and the other original head. in mean time, as it sat for so long, i redid all the brakes, everything but the brake lines ( which the previous owner had already replaced, along with all the springs, struts, suspension, and steering components ). he got pissed at me, when i told him i put 140k as the mileage on the DMV paper work, he says ... car was seldom driven, his buddy had 4 or 5 other z cars. he had 3 himself. says that 40k is the actual mileage on the car. not 140K. too bad it's been parked outside all its life. interior is fine, body has usual rust, and dried weather stripping. lack of funds and general bad luck ( a FIAT tradition ), other than test rides around the block, it has sat in my driveway since last feb. i finally got a carburation issue squared away. thought i was gonna be able to drive it, when this happened. you suggesting that i take the spring from the driver's side, move it to the passenger side ??? might give that a try ... wayne

the shoes came from nismo, in boxes marked front and rear ( you can buy either shoe separately, if one wants ). i am pretty sure, i installed em correctly. will have to double check, but i think, there is only one way to put them on. one has a hole that goes over a stub that sticks out. the adjuster arm and the little wheel on the end of the wheel cylinder are also new. it has been suggested, that even though the springs are new, one may not be to tolerance, and that i might want to check that. this is so damn frustrating. finally get 99% of the bugs under the hood worked out, now this ... swear there is a fiat emblem on this Z some where ... LOL thanks for the suggestions, keep em coming !!! wayne

shoes appear to be correct, front and rear shoes in the proper place. all parts of the adjuster are new as well( came with the new wheel cylinder ). i replaced everything with new. the drums are new, and mic'd. they are perfectly round. everything that should be clean, is clean and all components that should be greased, are greased. the z had sat for over 10 years, before i bought the car, so i replaced everything, with new. the brakes on the driver's side are fine, only the brakes on the passenger side are tightening up and locking the drum, as if the parking brake was on. this happened within 3 or 4 miles of driving ( no tags, so only quick test rides around the block ) ... i know, that everytime the parking brake is applied, the self adjuster adjusts the brakes. for some reason, it justs keeps turning that adjuster, until the shoes trap the drum. need to get that to stop happening. thanks for the suggestions, once daylight comes, i will check those shoes again, make sure they aren't reversed. i think, short in the rear, large in the front. wayne

greetings, well found out what that squealing was from the right rear brake. the self adjuster had forced the shoes all the way out. essentially i was driving with the parking brake on. when i went to check out the noise, found the drum locked up tight. i did a search, didn't find anything on this .... how do i stop that self adjuster from locking up the brake ??? for those that wonder how to get the drum off ... affected side off the ground, safely blocked so car won't move, jack stand in place. removed the wheel, put a few heavy guage large diameter washers on each lug. tighten the lug nuts back onto the lugs, snug up to the washers ( the washer prevent damage to the aluminum drums ). using a breaker bar, you can now use the lug nuts to turn the axle ( brakes off and out of gear ), which in turn, turns the drum. remove the parking brake cable at the backing plate. you can't do much with it connected. with the adjustment plug removed from the drum, turn the drum, until you can see the adjustment wheel through the hole ( use a flashlight ). the smaller slotted wheel is the one you use, the larger wheel, with the fine notches, is the self adjuster. using a long, thin blade screw driver, through the adjustment hole, push under the self adjuster wheel, towards the rear of the car. you'll feel a slight resistance. push down and towards the rear, this moves the self adjuster away from the adjuster wheel. this makes it possible to back the adjuster off, so you can pull the drum. on the passenger side, you want the smaller wide slotted wheel to turn counter clockwise ( or downward, if you think that way ), this backs the shoes away from the drum. if it doesn't turn easily, the adjuster is still jammed against the adjustment wheel. reach under that adjustment wheel and push the arm away again. turn the smaller wheel, counter clockwise, until it stops. drum should turn freely. now, grab a solid block of wood and a hammer. put the wood against the back of the drum, on the outer ring of the drum. work your way around the edge of the drum, hold the wood firmly against the back edge of the drum (on the ring ), as you beat the wood with the hammer ( never strike the drum directly with the hammer ). working your way around the drum, this should knock the drum loose. if not ... the drum is stuck by rust where the axle pancakes to the back of the drum. using a large rubber mallet, smack the drum on the sides where the shoes meet the drum. then smack the wheel side of the drum. do this for about 3 or 4 minutes. then go back to using the wood block and hammer, on the backside of the drum. the drum should slowly move away from the axle and pop off. no reason to cut the drum in half or drill it full of holes. that said ... my question again is, how do i stop the shoes from locking against the drum ??? the self adjusters worked worked from the factory, they should work now. i have new rear wheel cylinders, new brake components ( springs, retainers, ect. ), nismo green shoes. the driver's side is fine, only having an issue with the passenger side. thanks, wayne

well, i have my fingers crossed, hope it's the brakes or a component there of. would sure be a load off my mind and my shoe string budget. when the rain stops i will take a look. i wasn't sure where to post my original message. was suggested that i post in brakes as well as drivetrain. appreciate all the info. if no rain this weekend, will tear into it and post the results of my find. i am holding out for it being the spring rubbing on the axle. wayne

no idea, why is double posting, only send one message .. car sat for over ten years. i bought it, small block chevy, had a cracked head. now a flat spot in the q jet. been taking short test rides around the block. didn't notice the noise until the temps dropped. 5 to 8 mph, 20 feet from my driveway, ringing starts. i did do a complete brake job, new metal lines, new wheel cylinders, new green nismo shoes. i will check the insides see if something came loose or if maybe the backing plate is rubbing on the drum ( please let it be that !!! ). will check all the obvious, if i don't find anything, will jack her up, jack stands and tires well blocked. slip into gear, let clutch out slowly, see if i can hear where the ringing is coming from. inside the car, is LOUD and coming from the right rear. neighbors heard it when i drove by. had planned on draining and refilling all the fluids, as soon as i get it street ready. right now, it's not what i would consider to be driveable. but, i'm working on it ... ;-} thanks for the advise, really appreciate the imput ! wayne

no idea why my messages post twice. the above is a list, sent to me, when i wanted to do a rear disc brake and front brake upgrade. should show the parts one needs to upgrade/convert the 240 series to bigger/better ( ? ) front calipers and pads, as well as converting the rear to disc brakes. sorry, i didn't paste the question, that this message was the reply to. if i had, then this list would have made more sense. wayne

the ringing in mine, is as soon as i get up around 12 mph. really loud. i have aluminum drums and replaced the shoes ( new wheel cylinders, new shoes, both rears and, 84 toyota calipers on the front ) with the semi metallic green shoes from nismo. i was thinking, if was the shoes , would be on both sides. no idea if noise was there before, as cylinders were bad, engine wasn't running. i haven't changed the fluids, though i'm sure it is a good idea . have only driven it maybe 10 miles since i bought it. in my z, the ringing is only on the right rear. no question about it transferring from the differential to the wheel, way too loud for that. thanks, wayne no idea why my messages are posting twice ...

72 240z, V8. 4 speed, scarab modified hurst shifter, swap doen around 1976 ( scarab kit ??? ). sat for 10 yrs. i bought it, to bring back to life. a few test rides during the summer, normal z clunks and rattles. has 200r and 280 axles ( stubs, half shafts, what ever they are called ). prev owner replaced most everything with new parts ( ten years ago ), most parts still have nissan parts stickers on em. recently, took it around the block, have a loud ringing noise, as if one were running a wet finger around the rim of a fine crystal goblet. or a skill saw, cutting wood, coming from the right rear. wasn't there when temps were warm, now that it's colder, it's there. no idea if it goes away. on going mechanical issues, prevent any long adventures, and speeds over 35 mph. this z thinks it's a fiat, i fix one thing, something else breaks. almost makes me want to toss the towel in. any way, that ringing, comes from the right rear ... man i hope it's not a bearing ... thoughts ???? experience the same thing ? thanks, wayne

hmmm, now that it's cold, my fiat, i mean my 72 240 with 280 hubs ( axles, half shafts ), is making a ringing noise from the right rear. due to on going mechanical issues, have only put maybe 10 miles on since feb. 2003. bought dead V8 z car ( looks like scarab ). snuck it around the block on a few test drives. during the summer, just typical z clunks and such. now, that it's cold, there is a high pitched ringing from the right rear. sounds like a wet finger circling the top of a crystal goblet. is that a bearing ? car sat for 10 yrs before i got it. prev owner had replaced almost everything, suspension wise, most parts still have the nissan parts stickers on em. anyway, you think bad bearing ?? inner, outer, hub ??? thanks, wayne

Legal disclaimer-I am not responsible for injury or death by use of any parts listed. By installing any parts you are taking full responsibilty for any damage, death, or injury due to the use of these parts. Not legal at all, period. Not D.O.T. approved, period. Not to be used for Highway use in any state anywhere, period. Enjoy. Engine Pin height Piston diameter Dish cc Type Date LZ-22S 35.0 87 9.32 720 truck 6/79-10/82 LZ-22E 32.5 87 9.32 200SX 7/81-0/83 LZ-24 34.0 89 0 720 truck 11/82-10/85 KA-24E 34.0 89 0 240SX 89-98 Bump spacers: 3/4†for 14†wheels 1†for 15†wheels Large Four Piston Front Brakes with Vented Rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port A Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan and Toyota parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1970-73 Nissan Z hubs 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1984-85 Nissan 300ZX front rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern 1988-92 Toyota 4X4 V6 pickup front calipers marked ‘S12W’ OR 1995-00 Toyota 4-Runner 4X4 V6 front calipers marked ‘S13WB’ Eight bolts grade 10.9, 8 X 1.25 thread diameter and pitch 40 mm long with lock washers Two metal spacer as listed below; O.D. 155 mm I.D. 81 mm Thickness 17 mm Four 10.5 mm holes spaced 4 1/16†equidistance The front dust shield must be trimmed to accommodate the larger caliper or they will rub and wheel clearance is an issue with older RWD wheels, the caliper has a protrusion of about 30 mm over stock using the ‘S12W’ version and 28 mm over stick using the ‘S13WB’ version. You can use your old brake lines if you gently bend them to fit, just make sure they don’t touch or they will rub a hole in the brake lines. Small Four Piston Front Brakes with Solid or Vented Rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port B Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan and Toyota parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1970-78 Nissan Z hubs 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1970-78 Nissan Z rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern 1979-85 Toyota 4X4 4 cylinder pickup with solid rotor, front calipers marked ‘S12+8’ OR 1986-88 Toyota 4X4 4 cylinder pickup with vented rotor, front calipers marked ‘S12+8’ 1984-85 Nissan 300ZX front rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern Eight bolts grade 10.9, 8 X 1.25 thread diameter and pitch 40 mm long with lock washers Two metal spacer as listed below; O.D. 155 mm I.D. 81 mm Thickness 17 mm Four 10.5 mm holes spaced 4 1/16†equidistance The front dust shield must be trimmed to accommodate the larger caliper or they will rub and wheel clearance is an issue with older RWD wheels, the caliper has a protrusion of about 8 mm over stock using the solid rotor version and 20 mm over stock using the vented rotor version. You can use your old brake lines if you gently bend them to fit, just make sure they don’t touch or they will rub a hole in the brake lines. Big Rear Disk Brake Conversion 240 SX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port C Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1989-98 Nissan 240 SX calipers and hangers 1984-85 Nissan 300 ZX rear rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1986-89 Nissan FWD Maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both bored, cut, and welded for correct offset E-Brake extension are available after market and they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Small Rear Disk Brake Conversion 280 ZX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port D Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1982-83 Nissan 280 ZX rear caliper and hangers 1982-83 Nissan 280 ZX rear rotor 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1986-89 Nissan FWD Maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both bored, cut, and welded for correct offset OR 1980-84 Nissan 810 Nissan Maxima Sedan rear brackets that have the floating dust shield No E-Brake extension available after market but they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Big Rear Disk Brake Conversion 280 ZX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port E Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1982-83 Nissan 280 ZX calipers and hangers 1984-85 Nissan 300 ZX rear rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1986-89 Nissan FWD Maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both bored, cut and welded for correct offset No E-Brake extension available after market but they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Bone Stock Small Rear Disk Conversion Maxima 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port F Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX rear brake calipers and hangers 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1980-84 Nissan 810 Maxima Sedan rear brackets that have the screwed- on dust shield E-brake extension is available after market and they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. As for the e-brake extension, it is mearly a section of flat stock with two hole drilled in it. Get one stick of 36"X1â€X5/32" mild steel flat stock at you local hardware store (1/8" may be esier to find), cut them into two sticks that measure 2"X1"X5/32†and drill holes to accomidate the stock e-brake U-shaped bracket and pin and a second pin is needed for the caliper. Holes may be about 1 1/2" apart or so. Not rocket science, simple fab that anyone with a small steel ruler, a hacksaw, a small grinder (bench or hand held) and a drill with bits can make in about an hour (if your slow at fabing stuff). It is cheap enough so if you mess up the first than you got 34" left to play with. Oh Speedway motors, Modern-Motorsports, Arizona Z, and Outlaw-brakes sells aftermarket stuff too. This information is not 100% correct and I am not responsible for inaccuracies in this document, this is intended for general information only. Please note that I am not a business and I am not affiliated with any organization or business in anyway. I am just a guy trying to help others keep their dreamZ alive. > Mike,

Legal disclaimer-I am not responsible for injury or death by use of any parts listed. By installing any parts you are taking full responsibilty for any damage, death, or injury due to the use of these parts. Not legal at all, period. Not D.O.T. approved, period. Not to be used for Highway use in any state anywhere, period. Enjoy. Engine Pin height Piston diameter Dish cc Type Date LZ-22S 35.0 87 9.32 720 truck 6/79-10/82 LZ-22E 32.5 87 9.32 200SX 7/81-0/83 LZ-24 34.0 89 0 720 truck 11/82-10/85 KA-24E 34.0 89 0 240SX 89-98 Bump spacers: 3/4†for 14†wheels 1†for 15†wheels Large Four Piston Front Brakes with Vented Rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port A Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan and Toyota parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1970-73 Nissan Z hubs 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1984-85 Nissan 300ZX front rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern 1988-92 Toyota 4X4 V6 pickup front calipers marked ‘S12W’ OR 1995-00 Toyota 4-Runner 4X4 V6 front calipers marked ‘S13WB’ Eight bolts grade 10.9, 8 X 1.25 thread diameter and pitch 40 mm long with lock washers Two metal spacer as listed below; O.D. 155 mm I.D. 81 mm Thickness 17 mm Four 10.5 mm holes spaced 4 1/16†equidistance The front dust shield must be trimmed to accommodate the larger caliper or they will rub and wheel clearance is an issue with older RWD wheels, the caliper has a protrusion of about 30 mm over stock using the ‘S12W’ version and 28 mm over stick using the ‘S13WB’ version. You can use your old brake lines if you gently bend them to fit, just make sure they don’t touch or they will rub a hole in the brake lines. Small Four Piston Front Brakes with Solid or Vented Rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port B Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan and Toyota parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1970-78 Nissan Z hubs 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1970-78 Nissan Z rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern 1979-85 Toyota 4X4 4 cylinder pickup with solid rotor, front calipers marked ‘S12+8’ OR 1986-88 Toyota 4X4 4 cylinder pickup with vented rotor, front calipers marked ‘S12+8’ 1984-85 Nissan 300ZX front rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern Eight bolts grade 10.9, 8 X 1.25 thread diameter and pitch 40 mm long with lock washers Two metal spacer as listed below; O.D. 155 mm I.D. 81 mm Thickness 17 mm Four 10.5 mm holes spaced 4 1/16†equidistance The front dust shield must be trimmed to accommodate the larger caliper or they will rub and wheel clearance is an issue with older RWD wheels, the caliper has a protrusion of about 8 mm over stock using the solid rotor version and 20 mm over stock using the vented rotor version. You can use your old brake lines if you gently bend them to fit, just make sure they don’t touch or they will rub a hole in the brake lines. Big Rear Disk Brake Conversion 240 SX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port C Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1989-98 Nissan 240 SX calipers and hangers 1984-85 Nissan 300 ZX rear rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1986-89 Nissan FWD Maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both bored, cut, and welded for correct offset E-Brake extension are available after market and they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Small Rear Disk Brake Conversion 280 ZX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port D Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1982-83 Nissan 280 ZX rear caliper and hangers 1982-83 Nissan 280 ZX rear rotor 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1986-89 Nissan FWD Maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both bored, cut, and welded for correct offset OR 1980-84 Nissan 810 Nissan Maxima Sedan rear brackets that have the floating dust shield No E-Brake extension available after market but they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Big Rear Disk Brake Conversion 280 ZX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port E Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1982-83 Nissan 280 ZX calipers and hangers 1984-85 Nissan 300 ZX rear rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1986-89 Nissan FWD Maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both bored, cut and welded for correct offset No E-Brake extension available after market but they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Bone Stock Small Rear Disk Conversion Maxima 4 X 4 1/2†lugs: Port F Labeled as such only due to the fact that they use all stock Nissan parts that can be adapted for use on the 1970-78 Z car. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX rear brake calipers and hangers 1979-81 Nissan 280 ZX rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1980-84 Nissan 810 Maxima Sedan rear brackets that have the screwed- on dust shield E-brake extension is available after market and they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. As for the e-brake extension, it is mearly a section of flat stock with two hole drilled in it. Get one stick of 36"X1â€X5/32" mild steel flat stock at you local hardware store (1/8" may be esier to find), cut them into two sticks that measure 2"X1"X5/32†and drill holes to accomidate the stock e-brake U-shaped bracket and pin and a second pin is needed for the caliper. Holes may be about 1 1/2" apart or so. Not rocket science, simple fab that anyone with a small steel ruler, a hacksaw, a small grinder (bench or hand held) and a drill with bits can make in about an hour (if your slow at fabing stuff). It is cheap enough so if you mess up the first than you got 34" left to play with. Oh Speedway motors, Modern-Motorsports, Arizona Z, and Outlaw-brakes sells aftermarket stuff too. This information is not 100% correct and I am not responsible for inaccuracies in this document, this is intended for general information only. Please note that I am not a business and I am not affiliated with any organization or business in anyway. I am just a guy trying to help others keep their dreamZ alive. > Mike,

back in the late 70's early 80's, one could buy a plate that had 4 little strainers in em, that went below the carb, between the carb and manifold. the idea was, better dispersion of the atomized gas and air, would produce better gas mileage/ hp. for the most part, it was proven to be bogus, and the product faded away. guess the hula hoop, slinky, and frisbee are back in style. next it'll be magnets, copper pellets, the tornado if any of this stuff worked, it's cheap and easy, the auto makers would use em on regular production cars. wayne

take a look inside street rodder magazine. there are probably 15 different style of hugger headers advertised there. among that crowd, the sanderson's are the most desireable. take a look at em, you can get em ceramic coated from the factory. wayne

take a look inside street rodder magazine. there are probably 15 different style of hugger headers advertised there. among that crowd, the sanderson's are the most desireable. take a look at em, you can get em ceramic coated from the factory. wayne