waynekarnes

no you should already have a 60 amp alternator. the fan draws a bunch of current at start up. after start up if i remember, when fan is running, is something like 8 to 12 amps on low, 14 to 18 on high. if you are running a big draw stereo, you may need to up the alternator. figure out at night, headlamps, tail lights, heater fan, wipers, radio, dash lamps, ect that you are running and how many amps they use. remember you draw off the battery, the alternator fills the battery back up. if you drain faster than the alternator can refill, things will go dead. i'd put the fan in, use a good battery and give it a try. if lights dim when fan comes on and stay dim, upgrade the alternator. i am running the 104 amp because i wanted to be sure. room to add other accessories. be advised that the taurus fan has only one motor. you must shut off the low speed before you turn on the high speed. most people use one temp controlled switch and a relay to power the low speed. it is a very efficient fan ( as long as the radiator and associated cooling system is in good condition ) normally you will not have to use the high speed. that said, if you decide to use a switch inside the truck to turn on the high speed ( as most people do ), run the sw to a relay to power the high speed. make sure that when that switch turns on the high speed it also shuts off the power to the low speed. if you try to run the low and high speed at the same time, you will burn out the motor. it has been a few years since i wired mine up. divorce and lack of funds ( divorce LOL ) my 240z is just setting. i wired mine using Cozy Cole's schematics and used two temperature switches. best to read my write up at hybridz.org as i don't remember exactly how i did it. i do know that it works perfectly. use the 3 relays and follow the schematics. Cozy talked me through part of it. he is a real nice guy. if you get confused, shoot him an email. i'm willing to help as well but, as i say, it has been a while. wayne

hi Pete ! our 2200 deal still on, is it not ? wink wink. you are correct about that duntov 30-30 cam. also correct that changing it out to a modern design will bring more horsepower. plus, change over to hydraulic, get more torque and hp without having to adjust the lifters every 4000 to 5000 miles. though, is hard to beat the sound of the tick tick and the lump lump at idle.

though it's been parked in the garage and has not moved under its own power since 1986, my '58 vette has a 365/327. i bought car when i was a senior in high school, 1974. it belonged to my uncle's best friend. he had time slips from bayland/fremont raceway showing 10.8 seconds for the quarter mile. i know for a fact would easily pull both front tires 10 inches off the ground, keep tires in the air through 3rd gear. i had to do the body work to fix the fiberglas behind the rear wheels after i proved to neighbor could pull the wheels. as far as the 93 octane, if you kept the temps down and the timing correct, you should be able to run the 365/ 327 on the pump gas. i would consider adding a real octane booster on the weekends or anytime you were planning on some horse play. i had a 70 LT-1 roadster in 1981. 370/350. person i bought from had shaved the heads and other stupid stuff. was running 12 to 1 compression. as long as i did not stand on it, was able to run on the unleaded premium. if i eased into it, could get some speed and no issues. if stood on it, forget it, massive detonation. once blew the electrode out of 2 of the yellow accel racing plugs. spark plug wire was laying up on the inner fender well. detonation issues are also different with an auto trans vs. a manual. driving style also affects detonation. i have friends with hot rod chevys running 11 to 1 compression, couple use em as daily drivers. as long as they don't go wide open throttle, they have no problems. when they want to have a little fun, they add octane booster. if you want a 327 in your z and, that is a real 365/327, you oughta see if you can pick it up. i think you will be happy with it. there are several things you can do to eliminate detonation. popular back when was water/alcohol injection. wayne

for most of your automotive projects, you can get by with the hobart 140. it is 110 volt, means you can use it most anywhere. 30 percent duty cycle. means weld for constant 3 mins let cool (YES ) for 7 minutes. i seriously doubt you will be making any 3 minute welds. has not been an issue for me or any of my friends. i have the hobart 140, welding with flux core wire. reason for flux core is can weld thicker metal and i am welding in carport. wind blows the gas away. have not done any work on 240z with the mig. my buddy from work welded 2 and half inch dom and 3 in dom tubing on a roll cage in his scout. we modified the custom cage he bought, added extra reinforcements, cut and added additonal mounting points and supports. we are also welding together a roll cage into 72 baja bug. .09 mild steel tubing. is a score certified cage and we are modifying it. cage is being tied bumper to bumper. we made saddles and welded to the rear torsion bar, tieing two down tubes to the torsion bar. under the rear window on the firewall, we have a 1/4 inch thick plate bolted to the firewall. two tubes off the rear of cage welded to that plate, as well as 2 other points of contacts to the same plate. no holes for tubes to pass through firewalls. instead we are welding 3/16 and 1/4 inch plates for "feet" drill through the feet, through firewall, body, using grade 8 nuts and bolts to tie things together. again i have welded 1/4 inch plate steel together with no problems. my neighbor is professional welder and is very impressed with the hobart. he is a miller man. the hobart is a knock off of the miller ( hobart is made by miller ). uses a few lighter weight parts and few plastic where the miller uses metal and heavier ga. i am thinking of moving up to another welder ( my neighbor says i am wasting my money, stick with the 140 ), as i want to weld some 1/2 inch stuff in one pass. my neighbor used the 140 and made perfect welds on 1/2 inch steel. took 3 passes, wire speed at 40, voltage set on 4. was thinking of adding the hobart 187 to my garage. it is a 220 volt welder, more ummph going in. but i will need to keep the welder close to the electric outlet. where with the 140 i have a 50 foot cord ( 12 ga ) and can take it that far from the outlet. 110 volt welder, take welder to the car as opposed to bringing car to the welder. again, my neighbor says i don't need it ( 220 v welder ). will be waste of my money, he says all i need is practice and patients. he certainly has that patients part down. what you planning on welding ? if just car stuff, give the hobart 140 a serious look see. i got mine brand new off ebay, including shipping to my house for right around 400 bucks. if you are thinking you will be welding thicker material on off road vehicles, lots of 5/16 thick material, you may want the 220 v welder. if so, give the hobart 187 a good look. otherwise, i think you will be very happy with the hobart 140. stop by the welding and fabricating area of hybridz.org. submit same question there. good luck, wayne

i missed that ! happy b day. how's your back doing ?

yes. wouldn't recommend it. dirt and poisonous gases will come into the car. there are plenty of parts cars on craigslist. buy a drill. buy a jig saw or saws all. drill the corners, enlarge holes so blade fits. cut the spare tire holder out of the parts car. cut enough so that it over laps the area cut out of your car. clean the edges up. flatten em down using hammer and flat metal behind it. lay the piece into your 260z. once you see that it will fit, lift it out. using body glue/adhesive ( get at local auto paint supply house ) and caulking gun, glue the part in place. ( follow directions for cleaning, temps, ect ) once that is dry, use a body seam sealant ( same paint supply ) seal around the edges. this will be a permanent repair. if you do not want the spare tire holder, get a piece of sheet metal at local metal recycler ( simms ?? ) cut and hammer to size. ( use jig saw or saws all ) or take to vocational center and pay em 10 bucks or so to cut it to size. again, hammer adjust the metal so it lays flat and meets the metal on the car. prep and glue the plate in place. seal the seams . if you are nervous about the glue ( i would not be ). drill the matching size holes and use a pop rivet gun ( harbor freight ) to put rivets that match the hole in place. seal the seams. you must use the body sealant. silicon and such will not work. wayne

most of the crude is usually down at the lower hose adapter. had same issue with a 73 i bought that had been parked for 12 yrs. this is what i did with the engine in the car. suggest you put your block at that angle. remove the adapter. i used a piece of metal bent into a hook shape to remove as much as i could get to inside the block and in the general area . remove thermostat. put the housing back in place. put upper radiator hose in place. take garden hose, shove it into the upper hose. if you want, you can use duct tape to seal the garden hose inside the upper hose. at spigot ( faucet ) turn water on about half way. this will blow most of the loose crude out of the block. after about 5 minutes, turn water all the way on. run water another 5 or so minutes. turn water off. let drain. put the lower adapter back in place. put lower hose on. seal the end of lower hose. at local auto parts store, get some coolant flush. dump it in the upper hose. if air temps are cold ( winter ), boil some water on the stove ( couple gallons ) or microwave. per directions on the container, add the appropriate amount of water, down the upper hose. block in garage or out of the cold, let it set for couple days. every once in a while, using a a large RUBBER mallet, hammer HARD on the block. after couple days, drain the cleaner ( remove lower hose and adapter - the adapter is bolted to the block ). run hot water through the block. pour it in the upper hose. let it run out the bottom of the block. grab the garden hose, repeat what you did before using the cleaner. this should clean about 75% or more of the crude out of the block. the rest you can get out once the engine is in the car and running. good luck, wayne

i use a 185 fan switch off the intake manifold ( chevy ) for the low speed. using Cozy's schematics/relay set up, i use a european only corvette 205 degree fan switch for the high speed. it is mounted on the top of the water pump. i read that this is the temps that corvette engineers set for their high speed to come on. if this is where engineers want it to be, who am i to 2nd guess em ? supposedly the 205 degree fan sw is european only because of the high speed driving they do there. a safety factor. i used the 205 fan sw instead of manual sw in Cozy's schematic as prefer thing be idiot proof. with the jtr radiator, high flow aluminum water pump, high flow thermostat, and taurus 2 spd fan on 100 degree day, in my driveway, engine idling for close to 30 mins, the high spd never kicked on, the low spd cycled on and off. temp ga was right at 185. as a test, i grounded the 205 fan sw, low spd shut off, high spd came on. i blocked the radiator off with cardboard, took about 4 mins for the high speed to come on. seconds after high came on, i pulled the cardboard, let air flow again. temps dropped, fan went silent. thought i broke something. temps below 185. all was fine. low spd cycled off and on again. chevrolet suggests, 185 and 205. if you worry about detonation, you may want to run 165 as low fan sw temp, this may allow you to run a hotter spark plug.

check out cozy cole's posts as to how to wire the two spd fan. i used his schematics ( i have a scarab, not an LS 1 ). i modified his plans just a bit. i use a 2nd fan temp sw that automatically turns the higher speed on, opposed to a manual sw on the dash. be advised that you will burn the fan motor out if you try and run the low speed and high speed at the same time. there are 3 wires on fan motor. one is ground. one is low speed. one is high speed. before engaging the high speed, you must shut off power to the low speed. cozy's schematic shows how to use 3 relays and a fan temp sw ( you must use a fan switch, not a temp sender ) and a manual sw to power the fan. his set up works excellent. i used the JTR radiator and mount. i used the aluminum bars supplied by jtr. the bars run vertically on engine side of rad. i notched the bottom and top holes of rad mount, moved the bars more towards the center of rad. i placed the fan and built in shroud on top of the mount ( on a bench ). carefully drilled through the shroud and into the vertical bars. did this on all corners ( not exactly on the corners, but you get the idea ). i then tapped the vertical bars. used socket head bolts and rubber coated washers. threaded the bolts through holes in shroud into the vertical bars. ( lock tite on bolts ). i also drilled a hole in jtr rad mount for the stock ford mounting hole. i used a tinner man nut on the jtr mount and ran a bolt through the stock ford hole into the tinner man nut. i also did this with the factory hole on the bottom of tarus fan shroud. there are other ways to mount the tarus fan to the jtr rad mount. this is how i did it. i may be selling the scarab and doing an LS 1 swap into the bambi killer. wayne you may need to cut a dog ear off, i think the top left of shroud.

the crate engine usually has a spec as to the years the engine is applicable. company selling crate engine shows range of years the engine may replace. generally, this is what the state will use as the year of the engine. if engine is not new. instead is a rebuilt, check the casting date on the block. the casting date will be used by the state to determine the date of manufactuer and smog requirements. if there is no spec application implied as when using a racing engine, you may find that CARB will disallow the use of the engine ( racing application, not designed to be used on the highway ). most replacement engines come with a CARB ( california air resources bureau ) certification. you should be safe if using any of the certified engines.

oh almost forgot. most collector car insurance companies will not insure modified collector cars. when bought the 70 LT-1 had hooker headers and big chrome side pipes ( i removed em. were ugly loud and damn hot ). haggerty would not insure it with the side pipes. also wanted to know on application form, if had modifications IE: high performance camshaft, non stock carb, engine swap, suspension modifications, brakes, ect. they do have a class for modified vehicles. rules at the time, and as they have gotten stricter i am sure rules are the same ; modified vehicles must be trailered to events. may only be driven at sanctioned events or on private property and never on any public roadways. burger pit parking ( ect ) lots are considered public accessible roadways, therefore modified vehicle may not be operated/driven in parking lots.

other than to and from repair shops, a collector car can only be driven to parades and club/car related functions. in other words, not to work, not to grocery store. not to your friend's house. not even around the block because you felt like taking it out of the garage. i went through this when i owned the 70 LT- 1 vette. dropped the coverage because i wanted to drive my car on daily basis. i am sure the state won't get too excited but, haggarty will if finds out : fender bender in the target parking lot. below is the statement about visual inspection. was basically put in place so that museums could keep cars registered and not have to bother with chasing down functioning parts made of unobtainium to stay smog legal. The bill would also provide that, commencing April 1, 2005, defined collector motor vehicles for which proof of insurance is submitted on that basis in accordance with regulations of the Bureau of Automotive Repair, and that are at least 35 model-years old, shall be subject to otherwise applicable exhaust emissions standards, but shall not be required to pass a visual and functional inspection of emission equipment, other than a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks. whole law is below BILL NUMBER: AB 2683 ENROLLED BILL TEXT PASSED THE SENATE AUGUST 27, 2004 PASSED THE ASSEMBLY AUGUST 27, 2004 AMENDED IN SENATE AUGUST 26, 2004 AMENDED IN SENATE AUGUST 23, 2004 AMENDED IN ASSEMBLY MAY 20, 2004 AMENDED IN ASSEMBLY MARCH 24, 2004 INTRODUCED BY Assembly Member Lieber (Coauthor: Assembly Member Koretz) (Coauthor: Senator Machado) FEBRUARY 20, 2004 An act to amend Section 44011 of the Health and Safety Code, and to amend Sections 4000.1 and 4000.2 of the Vehicle Code, relating to air pollution. LEGISLATIVE COUNSEL'S DIGEST AB 2683, Lieber. Air pollution: smog check. (1) Existing law establishes a motor vehicle inspection and maintenance program (smog check), administered by the Department of Consumer Affairs and the State Air Resources Board, that provides for the inspection of all motor vehicles, except those specifically exempted from the program, upon registration, biennially upon renewal of registration, upon transfer of ownership, and in certain other circumstances. Existing law requires the Department of Motor Vehicles to require any motor vehicle subject to those requirements to demonstrate compliance with those requirements. Existing law also establishes an enhanced motor vehicle inspection and maintenance program (smog check II) in each urbanized area of the state, any part of which is classified by the United States Environmental Protection Agency as a serious, severe, or extreme nonattainment area for specified air contaminants. Existing law also requires the smog tests to include, at minimum, loaded mode dynamometer testing in enhanced areas, and 2-speed testing in all other program areas, and a visual or functional check of emission control devices specified by the department. Existing law exempted from those requirements, until January 1, 2003, any motor vehicle manufactured prior to the 1974 model-year, and after that date, any motor vehicle that is 30 or more model-years old. This bill would instead, commencing April 1, 2005, exempt from the smog check requirements, and the smog check compliance requirements, any motor vehicle manufactured prior to the 1976 model-year. Existing law exempts from existing smog check requirements, any motor vehicle 4 or less model-years old and also exempts any motor vehicle up to 6 model-years old, unless the state board determines that the exemption would prohibit the state from meeting specified requirements of the federal Clean Air Act. This bill would, commencing April 1, 2005, make the exemption for any motor vehicle 4 or less model-years old inapplicable if the state board makes those same determinations regarding the requirements of the federal act. The bill would also provide that, commencing April 1, 2005, defined collector motor vehicles for which proof of insurance is submitted on that basis in accordance with regulations of the Bureau of Automotive Repair, and that are at least 35 model-years old, shall be subject to otherwise applicable exhaust emissions standards, but shall not be required to pass a visual and functional inspection of emission equipment, other than a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks. (2) Under existing law, the Department of Motor Vehicles, with certain exceptions, is required to obtain submission of a valid smog check certificate of compliance or noncompliance, as appropriate, in order to register a motor vehicle previously registered outside the state. Among other exemptions, from this requirement, existing law exempts 1965 or earlier model-year motor vehicles. This bill, commencing April 1, 2005, would instead apply the model-year exemption that is applicable to vehicles registered in this state. The bill would also make technical clarifying changes. (3) Existing law makes any violation of the smog check requirements a misdemeanor. To the extent that the bill would impose the smog check requirements on additional vehicles on and after April 1, 2005, this bill would impose a state-mandated local program by expanding the scope of a crime. (4) This bill would render inoperative on and after April 1, 2005, the amendments to Sections 43843 and 44004 of the Health and Safety Code proposed by SB 1615, if this bill is enacted after SB 1615. (5) The California Constitution requires the state to reimburse local agencies and school districts for certain costs mandated by the state. Statutory provisions establish procedures for making that reimbursement. This bill would provide that no reimbursement is required by this act for a specified reason. THE PEOPLE OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA DO ENACT AS FOLLOWS: SECTION 1. (a) It is the intent of the Legislature, in enacting the act adding this section, to ensure that vehicles, of the 1975 model-year and older are permanently exempted from the biennial compliance requirement of the motor vehicle inspection and maintenance (smog check) program. ( It is further the intent of the Legislature to ensure that the Department of Motor Vehicles and the Department of Consumer Affairs have adequate time to comply with the requirements of the act adding this section by delaying the operation of the act until April 1, 2005. SEC. 2. Section 44011 of the Health and Safety Code is amended to read: 44011. (a) All motor vehicles powered by internal combustion engines that are registered within an area designated for program coverage shall be required biennially to obtain a certificate of compliance or noncompliance, except for all of the following: (1) Every motorcycle, and every diesel-powered vehicle, until the department, pursuant to Section 44012, implements test procedures applicable to motorcycles or to diesel-powered vehicles, or both. (2) Any motor vehicle that has been issued a certificate of compliance or noncompliance or a repair cost waiver upon a change of ownership or initial registration in this state during the preceding six months. (3) Any motor vehicle manufactured prior to the 1976 model-year. (4) (A) Except as provided in subparagraph (, any motor vehicle four or less model-years old. ( Beginning January 1, 2005, any motor vehicle six or less model-years old, unless the state board finds that providing an exception for these vehicles will prohibit the state from meeting the requirements of Section 176© of the federal Clean Air Act (42 U.S.C. Sec. 7401 et seq.) or the state's commitments with respect to the state implementation plan required by the federal Clean Air Act. © Any motor vehicle excepted by this paragraph shall be subject to testing and to certification requirements as determined by the department, if any of the following apply: (i) The department determines through remote sensing activities or other means that there is a substantial probability that the vehicle has a tampered emission control system or would fail for other cause a smog check test as specified in Section 44012. (ii) The vehicle was previously registered outside this state and is undergoing initial registration in this state. (iii) The vehicle is being registered as a specially constructed vehicle. (iv) The vehicle has been selected for testing pursuant to Section 44014.7 or any other provision of this chapter authorizing out-of-cycle testing. (5) In addition to the vehicles exempted pursuant to paragraph (4), any motor vehicle or class of motor vehicles exempted pursuant to subdivision ( of Section 44024.5. It is the intent of the Legislature that the department, pursuant to the authority granted by this paragraph, exempt at least 15 percent of the lowest emitting motor vehicles from the biennial smog check inspection. (6) Any motor vehicle that the department determines would present prohibitive inspection or repair problems. (7) Any vehicle registered to the owner of a fleet licensed pursuant to Section 44020 if the vehicle is garaged exclusively outside the area included in program coverage, and is not primarily operated inside the area included in program coverage. ( Vehicles designated for program coverage in enhanced areas shall be required to obtain inspections from appropriate smog check stations operating in enhanced areas. © For purposes of subdivision (a), any collector motor vehicle, as defined in Section 259 of the Vehicle Code, is exempt from those portions of the test required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 if the collector motor vehicle meets all of the following criteria: (1) Submission of proof that the motor vehicle is insured as a collector motor vehicle, as shall be required by regulation of the bureau. (2) The motor vehicle is at least 35 model-years old. (3) The motor vehicle complies with the exhaust emissions standards for that motor vehicle's class and model-year as prescribed by the department, and the motor vehicle passes a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks. SEC. 3. Section 4000.1 of the Vehicle Code is amended to read: 4000.1. (a) Except as otherwise provided in subdivision (, ©, or (d) of this section, or subdivision ( of Section 43654 of the Health and Safety Code, the department shall require upon initial registration, and upon transfer of ownership and registration, of any motor vehicle subject to Part 5 (commencing with Section 43000) of Division 26 of the Health and Safety Code, a valid certificate of compliance or a certificate of noncompliance, as appropriate, issued in accordance with Section 44015 of the Health and Safety Code. ( With respect to new motor vehicles certified pursuant to Chapter 2 (commencing with Section 43100) of Part 5 of Division 26 of the Health and Safety Code, the department shall accept a statement completed pursuant to subdivision ( of Section 24007 in lieu of the certificate of compliance. © For purposes of determining the validity of a certificate of compliance or noncompliance submitted in compliance with the requirements of this section, the definitions of new and used motor vehicle contained in Chapter 2 (commencing with Section 39010) of Part 1 of Division 26 of the Health and Safety Code shall control. (d) Subdivision (a) does not apply to a transfer of ownership and registration under any of the following circumstances: (1) The initial application for transfer is submitted within the 90-day validity period of a smog certificate as specified in Section 44015 of the Health and Safety Code. (2) The transferor is the parent, grandparent, sibling, child, grandchild, or spouse of the transferee. (3) A motor vehicle registered to a sole proprietorship is transferred to the proprietor as owner. (4) The transfer is between companies whose principal business is leasing motor vehicles, if there is no change in the lessee or operator of the motor vehicle or between the lessor and the person who has been, for at least one year, the lessee's operator of the motor vehicle. (5) The transfer is between the lessor and lessee of the motor vehicle, if there is no change in the lessee or operator of the motor vehicle. (6) The motor vehicle was manufactured prior to the 1976 model-year. (7) Beginning January 1, 2005, the transfer is for a motor vehicle that is four or less model-years old. The department shall impose a fee of eight dollars ($8) on the transferee of a motor vehicle that is four or less model-years old. Revenues generated from the imposition of that fee shall be deposited into the Vehicle Inspection and Repair Fund. (e) The State Air Resources Board, under Part 5 (commencing with Section 43000) of Division 26 of the Health and Safety Code, may exempt designated classifications of motor vehicles from subdivision (a) as it deems necessary, and shall notify the department of that action. (f) Subdivision (a) does not apply to a motor vehicle when an additional individual is added as a registered owner of the motor vehicle. (g) For purposes of subdivision (a), any collector motor vehicle, as defined in Section 259, is exempt from those portions of the test required by subdivision (f) of Section 44012 of the Health and Safety Code, if the collector motor vehicle meets all of the following criteria: (1) Submission of proof that the motor vehicle is insured as a collector motor vehicle, as shall be required by regulation of the bureau. (2) The motor vehicle is at least 35 model-years old. (3) The motor vehicle complies with the exhaust emissions standards for that motor vehicle's class and model year as prescribed by the department, and the motor vehicle passes a functional inspection of the fuel cap and a visual inspection for liquid fuel leaks. SEC. 4. Section 4000.2 of the Vehicle Code is amended to read: 4000.2. (a) Except as otherwise provided in subdivision ( of Section 43654 of the Health and Safety Code, and, commencing on April 1, 2005, except for model-years exempted from biennial inspection pursuant to Section 44011 of the Health and Safety Code, the department shall require upon registration of a motor vehicle subject to Part 5 (commencing with Section 43000) of Division 26 of the Health and Safety Code, previously registered outside this state, a valid certificate of compliance or a certificate of noncompliance, as appropriate, issued in accordance with Section 44015 of the Health and Safety Code. ( For the purposes of determining the validity of a certificate of compliance or noncompliance submitted in compliance with the requirements of this section, the definitions of new and used motor vehicle contained in Chapter 2 (commencing with Section 39010) of Part 1 of Division 26 of the Health and Safety Code shall control. SEC. 5. The amendments to Sections 43843 and 44004 of the Health and Safety Code proposed by Senate Bill 1615, if enacted, shall not be operative. SEC. 6. No reimbursement is required by this act pursuant to Section 6 of Article XIII B of the California Constitution because the only costs that may be incurred by a local agency or school district will be incurred because this act creates a new crime or infraction, eliminates a crime or infraction, or changes the penalty for a crime or infraction, within the meaning of Section 17556 of the Government Code, or changes the definition of a crime within the meaning of Section 6 of Article XIII B of the California Constitution. SEC. 7. This act shall become operative on April 1, 2005.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/336110091.html click link for ad and pics. i have nothing to do with this, saw ad on craigs and passing it on for what ever it is worth. Datsun 240, 260 and 280Z Fiberglss Door panels - $230 (santa clara) Reply to: sale-336110091@craigslist.org Date: 2007-05-22, 10:59AM PDT I have four sets of panels that are ready to ship and two sets of arm rest that are ready to ship as well. The custom handles were built with the idea that I would need a place for my window switches and a door pull. I borrowed the handle cup from my 2004 Mitsubishi Galant although you may choose a different type or application. Keep in mind however that the arm rest is tappered so you may be limited in your selection As far as the window crank goes ... you can NOT!!! use the factory handle. It will not clear the speaker pod and its not long enough to clear the inside of the panel (it doesn't stick out past the new panel) as pictured below. I'm sure there are several options for power windows but the one that I recommend is listed here: http://www.spal-usa.com/ Their kit is simple to install and comes with everything you need to make the switch to power windows. I personally bought a set for my VW Cabriolet/Rabbit back in 2000 and I've never had a problem with them. Anyone with basic tools and the ability to hook up the 12V and a ground wire can do it. Cost: 230.00 for a set of panels and 55.00 for my custom handles. Panel installation is simple, you can pop rivet the panels to the factory upper door trim and/or bond it together with a basic two part epoxy. As a Courtesy I will pop rivet and bond the two pieces together if you send me your factory upper door trim with your payment If any of you are interested in purchasing a set or if you have any questions you can contact me at 510-938-8297. Im located in the San Francisco bay area, Santa Clara, Ca to be exact.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/336110091.html link has pics Datsun 240, 260 and 280Z Fiberglss Door panels - $230 (santa clara) Reply to: sale-336110091@craigslist.org Date: 2007-05-22, 10:59AM PDT I have four sets of panels that are ready to ship and two sets of arm rest that are ready to ship as well. The custom handles were built with the idea that I would need a place for my window switches and a door pull. I borrowed the handle cup from my 2004 Mitsubishi Galant although you may choose a different type or application. Keep in mind however that the arm rest is tappered so you may be limited in your selection As far as the window crank goes ... you can NOT!!! use the factory handle. It will not clear the speaker pod and its not long enough to clear the inside of the panel (it doesn't stick out past the new panel) as pictured below. I'm sure there are several options for power windows but the one that I recommend is listed here: http://www.spal-usa.com/ Their kit is simple to install and comes with everything you need to make the switch to power windows. I personally bought a set for my VW Cabriolet/Rabbit back in 2000 and I've never had a problem with them. Anyone with basic tools and the ability to hook up the 12V and a ground wire can do it. Cost: 230.00 for a set of panels and 55.00 for my custom handles. Panel installation is simple, you can pop rivet the panels to the factory upper door trim and/or bond it together with a basic two part epoxy. As a Courtesy I will pop rivet and bond the two pieces together if you send me your factory upper door trim with your payment If any of you are interested in purchasing a set or if you have any questions you can contact me at 510-938-8297. Im located in the San Francisco bay area, Santa Clara, Ca to be exact. * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

run it over to the pomona county fairgrounds. swap meet every 3 months. put sign on it 10,500 and go from there. http://www.pomonaswapmeet.com/ Welcome to the Pomona Swap Meet Home Page specifically designed for the antique auto enthusiast. We invite you to visit one or more of the eight events sponsored by George Cross & Sons, Inc., held at the Fairplex in Pomona. At each event you will find hundreds of vendors in over 3,000 vendor spaces selling tons of hard to find car parts and accessories at low swap meet prices. Thousands of vehicles (many for sale, some just for show) from all across the country are displayed by their owners in five distinct Cars for Show & Sale Areas (Antique Autos - pre-75, Corvettes, Porsches, Street Rods and Volkswagens .) The event is appealing to a diverse and international audience, with up to 20,000 buyers and spectators each show. People come from all over the globe just see the West Coast's Largest Antique Auto, Corvette, Porsche, Street Rod and Volkswagen Swap Meet and Car Show. The five distinct Cars for Show and/or Sale areas are set up for vehicle owners to display their antique vehicle, or any year Corvette or Porsche for just $25 admission. Buyers and spectators will find thousands of unique, original stock, antique, vintage and custom vehicles and parts for sale. Come check us out!! Events are just eight times per year. This section of Pomonaswapmeet.com is designed to help customers buy and sell Antique Autos, Corvettes, Porsches, Street Rods, Volkswagens and other specialty vehicles including many miscellaneous rides. Let us do the selling for you at Pomona Classifieds.

it's red, red vettes always bring more money than most other color vettes. 1975, calif 1st yr for cats on ca cars. you don't have to install the door panels, just clean em real well. clean the interior. wipe, vacuum, clean all the glass. clean the seats, don't put seat covers on the seats. don't waste money on anything other than cleaning. why the 81 nose and rear ? wrecked or preference. makes a difference in price. hard to believe the t top 75 as a collectable, but they have reached that status. for reference. i currently have a 58 vette ( since 74 ). have owned 2 other vettes. '70 LT-1 roadster and 1981 fiberglass pig. chevrolet quit building corvettes in '74 and started again in '86. if car is smog legal and wasn't wrecked , currently registered, is turn key drive from long beach to san jose ca with out breaking down, power windows, door locks, all that stuff works, from the pics, you are looking at asking around $8500 . hard part is with the body mods, it is no longer a 75 vette. it's a bastard step child. the the 75 t top isn't all that collectable and the body mods makes it less so. even though it probably cost in neighborhood of 5 grand before paint to have the rear and front clip hung and glassed the mods actually detracted from the value of the car. if it is safe to drive to san jose, will pass smog test ( ca state law states:seller must provide smog certificate at time of sell ), i'd post on craigslist as conservatively customized '75 vette and ask 10,000. when people come to see it, tell em no idea what it's worth and get em to make offers. i am thinking realistically, will sell for around 7 grand. if car is running and able to move under its own power. can't be safely driven by one's grandmother more than 3 miles but, could be driven by a car guy, we are talking 5 grand. if won't pass smog, will drag itself onto a trailer 1/2 a block away, you are basically selling a rolling project car. again, remember it is not a 75, it is a bastard car, you are talking 3500 to 4500. if it was wrecked and evidence remains, in running, drag itself to the trailer under own power, won't pass smog, ect. in that condition, 3k. lots of variables. lots of fools with money. tell you, the more gold chains, cologne, buyer is wearing and the more cigars the buyer is chomping on, the more likely he is to buy it. good luck, wayne

Pete, that's how i have the two speed taurus fan wired in the scarab. 185 fan sw for low speed. 203 fan sw for high speed. slightly modified Cozy Cole's set up. the 185 degree fan switch is easy to find. the 203 is export 1995 corvette switch. i don't have any manual switches. using Cozy's set up with the relays, if temps are high enough, when the 203 sw goes to ground, path to ground to the 165 is interupted. removes power to low speed fan, other relay closes, supplies ground and power to the high speed fan motor. set up works great. i'm using the JTR raditor and mount. a short nascar high volume aluminum water pump, high flow 185 degree thermostat. 104 amp alternator. coolant with water wetter. on 101 degree day, let car idle in driveway for over half an hour. using a meat thermometer in the radiator vanes, temps never got above 190 degrees. to test the 203 degree wiring, i shorted the connection to ground. the low speed shut off, high speed came on. knew my wiring was good. after engine had been idling for almost 45 minutes i used a sheet of card board to block off the radiator ( remember was 101 degrees in my driveway ). took little over 8 minutes for the temps to go up high enough for the 203 sw to go to ground. low speed went off, high speed came on. i removed the card board. took less than 4 mins for coolant temps to drop back down to where the high speed shut off and the low speed came on. using the fan switches and Cozy's relay set up is the way to go. fully automatic. wayne

regarding the doors. 1969 thru 1973 240z doors are same. all will fit. i think the 73 has reinforcement/side impact bars. this makes them a bit heavier than the earlier doors. 1974 260z. only the earlier doors will work on the 240z. the us fed gov required the doors to stay closed upon a side impact. in order to meet these new standards, mid '74 the latch mech was redesigned. the later doors will not work on the 240z. there are apparently some 260z and 280z doors from non US cars that appear to work on the 240z. i had two of these doors. they bolt on and latch. but you end up with gaps at the door seals. i have no idea why this is. the basic body shell appears to be the same. your best bet is to stick to the early 74 and down doors. skip any 280z doors as though they may look the same, they will not work. maybe 12 years ago, i spent a great deal of time researching this. at one point i had the last month and year of the 260z doors that work. i don't know this guy, saw ad on craigslist. check with him. if he is willing, use grey hound bus to ship. is the cheapest way to go. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/330062841.html

that would work perfectly and as the wiring screws to the lugs, you would not have to use a socket for it.

i slightly modified cozy's plans. i used a 180 degree fan switch and a 203 degree fan switch. one on the water pump, other on manifold. this is on my scarab z car. same concept will work on the L6. fan control switches are available on ebay. cozy's set up works great. fully automatic, no idiot switches inside the car. there is another set up posted on the web, turns fan on at low rpms, off at high with an override when temps reach 200. cool but more work than i wanted to do. if schematics don't show, go do a search in the chevy v8 section of here. look under cozycole or taurus fan. good luck, wayne from cozy cole. The two diagrams above show how to build and wire an auto relay switched 2-speed FORD TAURUS fan. Parts needed......10 guage wire for the power circuit. 18 guage wire for the control cicuit. Three relays..... 1) High speed relay, Tyco VF7-12V,70amps 2)Low speed relay and Aux relay, standard BOSCH relays Two switches,,,,.1)Low speed temp. switch- Adj. Flexilite, FLX-31147 from SUMMIT. 2)High speed temp. switch from Standard Motor Products, TS-158 or TS-392. I put the adj. low speed switch and the three relays in seperate relay boxes and mounted them in the engine comp. The high speed temp switch I mounted where one of the heater hoses went. Est. cost of parts, less the fan, is $50.00 . 10 guage wire is used in the power circuit and 18 guage in the control circuit. The 12V switched control circuit can be connected to any live connection with ignition on. The control circuit shown is as follows..... When the temp. reaches your set low speed figure, let's say 190 deg.the low speed relay is energized thru pin 86, 85 connects to 87A of the AUX relay and pulls 30 of that relay, 87 of the low speed relay and 30 are closed sending power to the fan to run at low speed. When the temp. reaches your high speed switch figure, let's say 210 deg. pin 86 of the AUX. relay energizes thru 85 and 30 releases from 87A of the low speed relay and connects with 85 of the high speed relay which thru 87 of that relay powers the fan to run at high speed. ARE we confused yet????? When the temp falls below the high speed swich figure the AUX relay will switch back to the low speed relay. Therfore low and high speeds will never be on at the same time and you will have the following conditions... 1) No fan on. 2) Low speed on. 3) High speed on.

Davy Z going to atlanta ??? get hold of my good buddy Dave McKenzie. he won't hold any punches. travels quite a bit by van on business ( home repairs and remodels ), seems to know most of ga. at one time he lived here in the bay area and up in grass valley as well as in malibu . was steve mc queen's widow's ( ally mc graw ) next door neighbor. so he can give you some comparisons and if you say you want a like neighborhood, he's likely to know what you are talking about. owns 3 240z and 3 300zx cars. he's in loganville, been trying for 4 yrs to get me to move out there from san jose. he's currently restoring an indy car and racing an ex nissan factory campaigned 300zx. private message me and i will send you his email address. how's alex gonna get along with out you ? wayne

believe that is same z that was running around the san jose/fremont california area. last saw it a ohlone college when Alex's z still had a 6 banger in it. check his website, i think he has some photos posted of that beast.

have high po factory chevy corvette fuel pump on scarab. no return line. is the way they made em in the 60's.

from what i read, imagined that you had a lot going on. nothing like finding out your threading water when you're trying to swim across the river. but, at least we have a hobby LOL

money, car parts or what ever it is that you are going to loan to a friend, co worker, stranger, take a look, hesitate and think. is it something that i am going to need in the near future, will it harm a family member or other friend and, will it make a difference in my life 5 years from now ? if the answer to those questions is NO, now consider that you are NEVER going to get that item or money back. will it bother you to loan the item or money ? if so, don't do it. largest amount of money i loaned a friend was 3200. co worker and good friend. paid me back over 3 months ( wife screwed him, wasn't making house payment. she was building nest egg, walked out on him, sued him for divorce ). when i loaned him the money, hoped i would get it back. he and kids were gonna lose their home. took me 3 yrs to save that money ( single dad since 95, have full custody of only child, son. just turned 18. 2900 take home. 2200 note on house ). he needed it, i weighed the questions above, gave him the money. if he had not paid me back, we'd still be friends. i didn't bleed for him, no one was injured, and i had already figured that he was not going to be able to pay me back. when you loan someone money, do it with the thought that they are NEVER going to pay your back. if you can live with that, loan em the money. if you can't fathom them not paying you back, don't make the loan. i have had the same circle of friends since 1973. i have been the borrower and the lender. as have they. we are all still friends, good friends. back in college took me two years to pay $600 back to one friend, he never once asked em for the money ( i bought a 57 nomad with the money ). years later, he borrowed my compressor, body tools, welder and other tools. he painted a 66 corsa for me, painted my nomad. when he moved from ca to colorado, i gave him the compressor and all the other stuff ( at this point most of that stuff was over 5 yrs old ). i can make more money, it's hard to make and keep good friends. again, if you can't afford to loan it, don't do it. if you can afford to loan it, do it with the thought, you will never ever get it back. most important part, will it make a difference in your life 5 yrs from now ??? oh, 1975, i "sold" classmate item my girl was selling. he promised to pay, never did. i gave her cash from my pocket, didn't tell her was my money. 75 bucks. i brokered the deal, made it my loss. 2 mo later classmate moved. never heard from him again. cost me 75 bucks to learn not to be a broker. LOL you did right giving your girl the money. she is right that you don't owe it BUT, will always be a sticky point between you if you didn't make it right with her. make a choice, cut the friend loose or cut the money loose, don't let it eat at you. good luck with this, wayne