waynekarnes

relocating battery to rear of car. want battery to set down, top flush with cargo floor. my buddy wants to remove the gas tank, leave the spare tire well as is, and notch the gas tank to clear the battery box. i'm thinking this will leave me with a 12 gallon tank ... i don't think i want that. am thinking a fuel cell, with filler neck to stock location, with a mrs. bitsi style flip aluminum lid, replacing the stock gas door. 16 gallon like in Tim'Z. at rio i didn't take any pix of Dan's set up. DRATS !! was checking out the blue oval set up, out the hatch. cool idea, can't steal it, have stock latch button, and want to use a spoiler. so, again, thinking, 16 gallon fuel cell, filler hose ( solid metal tube to the tank, to a neck at the stock filler location. someone suggested, to the lic plate location, use a fold down off an older chevelle ect. cap behind the plate. someone else shot that down, said not enough angle, fuel sloshes out the cap, or air gets trapped trouble filling the tank. i like the idea of behind the license plate and shaving the factory door. any pix or thoughts ??? also ... foam filled tank vs. no foam ... venting to the stock charcoal canister, an issue ? from the pix, most of teh fuel cells seem to vent out the top of the tank, no hard lines to hook a hose to, or me not seeing it correctly. if can't post pix here, please send pix to me wkarnes@pacbell.net

been searching for a couple hours ... some info, but lots of the posts are old, no more images ... no cut here, poke there, matches body curves, ect, information. i know that someone out there has used the mrs. bitsi spyder aluminum gas cap on the 240z. any directions, pix of the work in progress ? i know any thing is possible with money and talent ( i don't have either ), a friend has a welder and talent, for the costs of material has volunteered to do the mods for me, if i can get advise and pix. i'm sure he could figure it out, but always easier with good advise from someone that's already been there. also considering the new mustang bullet cap ... thanks, wayne

Dan, where did you get your front parking lights ? i got a super deal on an MSA aero II kit ( apparently i've been ripped off by Steve in arizona for the other one i paid for a year ago ). it should be installed it soon, gonna need some lights. are they signal ( blinker ) as well as parking lights ? LED ? if LED, did you use a different flasher, one with a long leather coat ? no that's not right ... i understand one should use a different flasher for LEDs. thanks, wayne

thanks !

can one put a 289 or 327 in a 240sx ? has it been done ? i'm not into the import scene. hondas with chrome coffee cans taped to the end of the exhaust pipe, do nothing for me. my 86 ( pre hard body ) bone stock nissan pickup,172k miles, with a camper shell on it, can run with half of em, stop light to stop light. you suggesting that there are 240zx cars out there powered by american V8 engines ... ? you have web site or pix ?

he's a phone man, like me. no shop ... has welder will travel ... right now, he's working on weekends and after hours at a body shop in santa cruz, hiway one at soquel ave. if he can weld it, most likely, he'll go to your house. if he can't do it, i'll ask him to check around and see who can. wayne

Alex, thought you had that covered. a friend of mine at work welds ... i will ask him about your stainless ... he does some custom stuff ( if you saw the episode of monster garage, where those custom body guys chopped that 54 chevy, he took lessons from and worked with most of those guys you saw doing the custom work ). no idea if he can weld stainless, but i will ask. have to wait until tomorrow, tried calling him .. no answer if i don't get back to u here .... drop me a message lately i've been scattered ... change in my blood pressure medicine ( insurance refuses to pay for brand that doc prescribed, i can't afford to pay for it myself) is not doing my head any great favors !!! doctor visit on monday. call me at work 408 864 0248 wayne seeing

my 240, using the scarab kit, has the cast iron rams horn exhaust manifolds, with air injection ( smog legal ). to clear the steering shaft, the lower portion of the manifold was cut off, tilted and welded back on. i did not do the welding, i was told my friend's uncle did the welding, he installed the V8 into the 72, back in '77, in his driveway and his garage. the weld is solid ( i had to drop the exhaust pipes, when i pulled the heads, i was turning so hard on the bolts at the bottom of the manifolds, to get the pipes free, i was rocking the car. 27 years and the weld holds strong ). so, the answer is ... if you know what you are doing, cast iron manifolds can be welded and last as long as the rest of the manifold. wayne

99% of the new vette owners are the same way. way back, before marriage and divorce ( thanks for playing the game, and now you will be giving her these lovely parting gifts, just for playing ), i had 2 vette, one of the clubs i belonged to had a club motto " save the wave ". almost all the people with vettes that were around 12 years or older, they would wave back. on the other hand, the majority of the newbies look at other vette drivers that waved to them, as if they owe us money, and they are never gonna pay it back. damn the cigar chomping, gold chain, leather jacket wearing, bra stuffing, girdle wearing, wanna be's !!!! screw em, i say SAVE THE WAVE !!!! wave at em any way ... let the guys with the tiny penises, and the women with no personalities, the people who bought the new z cars, to compensate, for the " i wonder who's looking at me now ? " a holes, drive by wondering why some one is waving. the real z people will wave back, and that makes it worth it !!! SAVE THE WAVE !!!!

Thanks Tim ! thought you were running a V8 and camaro V8 radiator. i have heard that the cross flow radiator for the 4 cylinder is the same one used for the V6 . as you suggested, with the shroud, that radiator is supposed to be a great set up for a stock or modified 6 banger. i will see how my engine runs with the zirgo 14 inch electric fan. i hope it works. if it doesn't work .... looks like, i will have to buy the JTR radiator set up, and use the taurus fan.

how's this ?? easier ??? this is the way i did mine ... ignore my most last post instructions, i was mistaken about the 180 degree turn, it is 360 degrees. do it this way and you will save a bunch of time ... works really well. Small Block Chevy Valve Adjustment Order 0 deg TDC, both number one valves shut. both intake and exhaust on the number one cylinder are closed. Adjust the #1 exhaust valve Adjust the #1 intake valve Adjust the #3 exhaust valve Adjust the #5 intake valve Adjust the #7 intake valve Adjust the #2 intake valve Adjust the #4 exhaust valve Adjust the #8 exhaust valve Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would be firing! It's where #6 would fire. both the intake and exhaust of number 6 cylinder are closed. Adjust the #3 intake valve Adjust the #5 exhaust valve Adjust the #7 exhaust valve Adjust the #2 exhaust valve Adjust the #4 intake valve Adjust the #6 exhaust valve Adjust the #6 intake valve Adjust the #8 intake valve again, hold the push rod between finger and thumb, twist the push rod, tighten the rocker arm nut, when you start to feel resistance, when the push rod gets hard to easily turn with your finger and thumb, that's when you give the rocker nut a 1/4 turn and STOP ! that valve is now adjusted, move to the next one and repeat, until you have done all 16 of em. hope this makes it a little easier for you ...

that's how i did mine, adjusted half the intakes, half the exhausts with engine on the timing mark, turned the engine over so number 6 cylinder was on the mark ( i think, 180 degrees from where i was ). adjusted the rest of the valves. only i tightned down an 1/8 th of a turn. half a turn was too much, 1/4 turn also too much ... at half turn, valves were open and engine wouldn't start. 1/4 turn started, but ran like crap. i did this when i put the heads back on after a valve job. i didn't replace the cam, might be going flat or may be a high lift cam. i don't know ... previous owner bought a rebuilt engine from a wrecked car. he has no idea what is in it. i don't know which would cause the valves to stay open with a quarter turn. my guess would be a high lift cam. i also replaced the lifters and push rods when i did the valve job. one lifter was scarred. i don't think this would be the issue, they are both stock chevy parts. i am thinking of changing to high ratio rockers, but then, i might end up with valves that won't close again ... wouldn't that be a kick in the head ???

i must be doing something wrong ... i go to the link ... don't see a place to vote ... help me vote !!! i want to vote !!!

opps, skip the set screw part of that message ... the method is correct ... just no set screw ... instead you just tighten the roker arm nut. i think i borrowed this from one of my favorite VW websites. if you over tighten the rocker arm nut, the valves will not close and the engine will run like crap or not start at all. ( the voice of experience speaking LOL ). good luck, wayne

maybe this is easier to figure out, less technical ... from another website ... Start over adjusting ALL your valves using the Exhaust opening/Intake closing method adjusting/setting lash on 1 cylinder at a time. To make things easier start with the #1 cylinder (driver's side at the front) and before cranking be sure to ground the coil wire. Observe the #1 exhaust valve rocker (which is directly over the header tube for that cylinder). When it just begins to open the valve (rocker nose rotating down) stop and you are now in position to adjust the intake valve on that cylinder. Loosen the poly lock and back off the set screw. Now slowly turn down the poly lock with your fingers until it just seats on the rocker's fulcrum. Now back it off a 1/2 turn and rotate the pushrod between your fingers. You'll find that it spins rather easy. Now continue to rotate the pushrod this time while slowly tightening the poly lock again with you finger. As it seats on the fulcrum you'll feel the pushrod now having a slight resistance aka ZERO LASH!! At this point the intake valve on the #1 cylinder is at zero lash and you now move on to adjusting the exhaust valve. Do NOT tighten the set screw at this time IF you are going to add preload! Next you observe the #1 intake valve (directly over the spark plug for that cylinder. When it fully opens (nose of the rocker rotated completely down AND rotates back up to the point the valve is almost closed (back on it's seat), stop and you are now in position to adjust the #1 exhaust valve. Same procedure as above. Loosen the poly lock, back off the set screw and turn the poly lock down with your fingers until it just seats on the rocker's fulcrum. Do NOT proceed beyond the #1 cylinder until you are confident you've set zero lash correctly. Develop a feel for it. Once you're certain move on to #3 cylinder, then #5 and so on. Upon completing the adjustment of all valves/lifters, you can now set preload (hydraulic cams only) regardless of where the lifter is positioned on the cam's lobe. Your choice 1/8 to 1/2 turn IF you feel you must. Just place a box wrench on the poly lock and position it as it relates to the hands of a clock. Best to use 12-3-6 or 9 o'clock positions. If you want 1/4 turn of preload then with the wrench at 12 o'clock turn clockwise (tighten) to the 3 o'clock position and you're done. NOW tighten the set screw while holding the poly lock in position without moving it. Continue the same for the remaining valves/lifters. No need to prelube/prime before adjusting the valves if done correctly! Same procedure is used for solid cams as well. However instead of setting zero lash, when in position to adjust you'll set the lash required (per cam card) using a feeler gauge. To verify the lash is correct use the go-no-go method. What that means is that if your cam calls for say .022 lash then a .021 will go and a .023 gauge will NO go. Now wasn't that easy?

from the champion website .... hope this adds to the confusion LOL ... Valve Adjustment The Quick Way: Ok, now to the good stuff! First, view this little chart for Small and Big Block Chevy Engines that I made and see if you can understand it ... for other engines, use your firing order that matches your engine to do the same. You set up this procedure based upon "opposite" cylinders of your firing order. (see below) Intake Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF! with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Intake Valve with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Intake Valve with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Intake Valve with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Intake Valve with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Intake Valve with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Intake Valve with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Intake Valve with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Intake Valve Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF! If you have noticed, this is the same procedure as the intake valves listed above, just that you are now adjusting the exhaust valves the same way. with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift .... Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve back to top Need an explanation? Well, what you have here is "opposite" valves on the engine cycle. The small and big block Chevy engines use a firing order of 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. What you do is separate the order into the two sides of the firing order. These are "exact" opposites that put the opposing valve at the correct location for adjustment, meaning the back side (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe (see image at left). This procedure works on most V8 and V6 engines. 1 - 6 8 - 5 4 - 7 3 - 2 If the lifter is anywhere other than on the heal of the cam where there is NO ramp contact you will have incorrect lash. The chart above makes sure you are on the backside of the cam lobe. When the cylinder is at TDC, this is not often the correct location to get the proper lash setting. back to top What about the actual adjustment procedure you ask? Hydraulic Cams: Ok, let's get to the actual wrench turning ... how many of you read or were taught that with a hydraulic lifter cam you adjust it down to where there is pushrod resistance (zero lash) and then turn it down 1/2 to 3/4 turn? Well, if you did this, you more than likely have the valves not closing all the way! The hydraulic lifter requires roughly a .030" pintle depth setting. This means that you adjust valves by the depth that the pintle in the lifter drops. Too tight and the valves do not close, too loose and they rattle and do not open properly and damage the lifter. How do you get .030"? Well, on new engines I will actually use a dial indicator and measure the depth of travel. On an engine in the car this is a bit different, and harder to do.. Now, I have two ways that I use to adjust hydraulic lifters. One uses the "clean" method with the engine off and the other is the messy way with the engine running. back to top Engine "OFF" Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment: Warm the engine by running it until it gets to operating temperature (15-minutes or so). Have all your tools ready and then quickly remove the valve cover(s) and start the adjustment procedure by using the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder (see the above chart). In the small and big block Chevy engines this is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench). Now, with two fingers spinning the pushrod between them to feel for resistance you easily snug the adjustment nut. When you feel resistance STOP, now you will adjust the nut down "Only" 1/8-1/2 turn. If you operate your engine a consistent high RPM, use the lighter setting (1/8 turn). What is 1/4 turn? (see image at right) Well, imagine the hands on a clock. You have the obvious 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 settings as well as the numbers in-between those. If you start with your wrench at the 12:00 position and turn it clockwise to the 6:00 position you have just made 1/2 turn. Going from 12:00 to the 3:00 position would be 1/4 turn. What is 1/4 Turn? click image to enlarge Now, you will do this for all the intake valves and then do the exhaust valves the same way. PRECAUTION: If you have an older high mileage engine that the lifters bleed off pressure (drain the oil out of). You can improperly adjust your valves. You need oil in the lifters to be able to get an accurate setting. If you repeatedly adjust the valves this way and they are still not correct, you probably have lifters bleeding off during adjustment. You have two options: Replace the Lifters -= or =- adjust the valves the "HOT" method as below. back to top Engine RUNNING Hydraulic Lifter Adjustment: Ok, so you really like messes? This has to be one of the most miserable maintenance procedures if you do not properly plan ahead. Some helpful hints: * Adjust only one side of the engine at a time. * Use oil restrictors on the rocker arms, or better yet a butchered up valve cover that has an access cut into the top of it to facilitate adjustment access. * Stay calm ... you WILL get burnt, you WILL make a mess and you WILL not look forward to doing this again, especially if you screw up the first time. * Using a mechanic's stethoscope can substantially make this procedure easier Adjusting hydraulic lifters with the engine running is not one of my favorite activities (as you can tell). With the above considerations taken care of, start the engine and loosen one of the rockers. You should hear it just start to "clatter". Slowing tighten it down until the "clatter" just stops and then turn it 1/4 - 1/2 turn additional to set the pintle depth. Continue on all the valves. If you hear excessive noises or the vehicle runs crappy you will be doing the procedure again. As stated above, if you have access to a mechanic's stethoscope, you can set the end at the top of the rocker stud to listen to the noise a loose adjustment makes, which will make finding "zero" lash easier. NOTE: If you make a mess, PLEASE check your oil level once you are done. back to top Solid Lifter Adjustment: First warm the engine to operating temperature (about 15-minutes) and then quickly remove the valve covers. Follow the chart above. With the #1 Intake valve at FULL LIFT (this means that you spin the engine until the Intake valve on the #1 cylinder is fully open ... you can tell this by the rocker arm pushing the down until it goes no further) you can now adjust the "opposite in firing order" cylinder. In the small and big block Chevy engines this is the #6 cylinder. Loosen the rocker (if using roller rockers there is a Jam Nut that you must loosen with an Allen Wrench). Now, based upon your cam card (cam specs) you should know what the valve lash setting should be. Let's say that your valve lash setting is .022". Get out the .022" feeler gauge and place it between the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm tip. Snug down the rocker "just" until you begin to fell resistance. The valve lash setting should not be tight ... the feeling should be about the same as putting a knife through a stick of cold butter. Not too hard, not too soft. Now, hopefully you are using "positive-lock" rocker arm retention instead of just pinched rocker nuts or Nylox. If using rocker nuts your job is done, go to the next valve. If using positive-locks, hold the body of the lock in place with a box end or open end wrench (there are special tools for this available) and then tighten the Allen screw. NOTE: In most cases the Allen screw will make a slight "click" when it is tight. Now, go adjust the remaining valves. back to top Closing Remarks: * You can change the power band a bit when using a solid lifter motor by varying valve lash settings. A looser lash setting increases the low-end power of the engine where a tighter lash increases top-end power. Also, be careful because the valve lash is the "Cooling Time" that the valve needs on each cycle. If you have no lash you take a chance of burning the valves. * Using roller rockers dramatically increases valve guide life, increases horsepower and also maintains better valve lash settings. Use them when you can! * Too loose a valve lash setting can damage valve stem tips as well as roller rocker tips, and can crack OEM stamped steel rocker arms. * Engine materials, engine operating RPM and valvetrain deflection contribute to varying valve lash settings. The higher the RPM, the cheaper the parts you use and the different types of materials contribute to sooner need for valve lash adjustments. (By the way, while you are in there ... test your valve spring pressures). * There is FREE horsepower when using Roller Cams ... if you can afford it, do it. Plus, when using roller cams, you can change cams without the need to change lifters which is mandatory with Hydraulic or Solid "tappet" cams. back to top back to Tech Zone

Tim, do you have the radiator that Mike at JTR has been recommending and sales, or do you have an actual camaro radiator. mine is still running the 4 core brass radiator that was installed back in 77. gauge in the dash, says engine is okay. but my face under the hood says, whoa that's hot ! one spirited test ride, made about a 6 mile loop. accelerated to 90 ( in a safe area ) a couple times. could feel heat through the floor boards, and when parked in driveway, pulled the hood, felt some serious heat. stock gauge in the dash, was about 3/4 towards the hot. i have bought an electric fan ( can't use the taurus. with scarab kit, sits too close to the radiator ), zirgo 14 inch something around 2680 cfm. been busy doing rust repairs and rust proofing, haven't had a chance to see if fan makes a difference. anyway ... i was thinking, as Mike suggested, yanking the 4 core, and using the radiator that JTR sells, along with the taurus fan. according to Mike, the 2 speed taurus fan will fit if i use the big 2 core radiator they sell. he feels that will eliminate any cooling issues my 350 V8 might have. are you using the radiator that Mike was suggesting i use, or an actual camaro radiator ? thanks, wayne

asked a contractor friend of mine, recently retired. asked him if wanted to go to fla to build you a garage. he's in Ga. he owns 4 z cars. his reply ... Maloxahatchee, fla ?? For yrs contracters in GA have been taking $10k deposits from widows and movin to FL. I dont know the Gen Cont markup now. Used to be 20%. I know 50% of net [after expenses] goes to taxes. Not as easy as folks think. Guy at the shop just had 30x40 slab and metal building with 12' walls done for $20k 1200SF for $17 per. SWEET needs wiring.

cool, as you say ... it's all in the image. my 79, back in 81, took a ride from san jose to cottage grove oregon. at 126 mph the right rear tire would start bouncing, took it to around 135, but the tire was hopping and taking the zx with it. cruised up 5 at 125 for about 45 minutes. that was such a great car for long distance trips. on the way back, got a ticket, in fortuna, clocked me at 112, wrote me at 72. officer was a car guy, had been thinking about buying a zx ( remember, it was only 2 years old then ). he crawled all the zx, sat in it, checked out the stereo, adjusted the mirrors. if i wasn't getting a ticket on the shoulder of hiway 101, might have been a good time.

copied from brokebolts web site, pirated and pasted here with permission. Max tire size: 17X7 rim 215/45R17 front and 17X8 rim 235/40R17 rear or 17X8 rim 235/45R17 front/rear Stock 14X4.5 rim 195/70R14 Bump spacers: 3/4†for 14†wheels 1†for 15†wheels 1 1/4†for 16†wheels 1 1/2†for 17†wheels Front rotor and CV spacers: O.D. 155 mm I.D. 81 mm Thickness 17 mm Four 10.5 mm holes spaced 4 1/16†equidistance O.D. 140 mm I.D. 20 mm Thickness 26 mm Eight holes bored for companion flange to CV Early 240Z-280Z 17 mm hub flange later 280Z 25 mm hub flange 5 Lug 3 11/16†4 Lug 2 15/16†Wheel clearance it's easy to determine: First you need to measure the inset of the wheel caliper area (as I call it). This is the area of the wheel where the caliper exists when the wheel is bolted onto the hub. Using a small steel ruler, lay the ruler over the backside of the wheel on the hub area. Using a second steel ruler measure the distance from the first steel ruler to the bottom of the wheel caliper area. Now use the Port listing you can see what depth over stock is required: S12W = 20 mm S13WB = 28 mm S12+8 solid rotor = 8 mm S12+8 vented rotor = 20 mm Wheel caliper area depth minus caliper protrusion equals wheel to caliper clearance. Port listings: Stamp Make Year Model Rotor type Thread diaXpitch Protrusion N/A Nissan 1989-94 240SX Solid cast bnj 10X1.0 mm N/A N/A Nissan 1970-78 240/260/280 Z Solid cast FIF 10X1.0 mm 88 mm S12+8 Toyota 1979-85 Pickup 4X4 Solid cast FIF 10X1.0 mm 96 mm S12+8 Toyota 1986-88 Pickup 4X4 Vented cast FIF 10X1.0 mm 108 mm S12W Toyota 1988-92 Pickup 4X4 V6 Vented cast FIF 10X1.0 mm 118 mm S12+8 Toyota 1989-91 4-Runner 4X4 Vented cast FIF 10X1.0 mm 108 mm S12W Toyota 1992-95 4-Runner 4X4 V6 Vented cast FIF 10X1.0 mm 118 mm S13WB Toyota 1993-98 T-100 4X4 Vented cast FIF 10X1.0 mm 116 mm S13WB Toyota 1995-00 4-Runner 4X4 V6 Vented cast FIF 10X1.0 mm 116 mm Port A: Large Four Piston Front Brakes with Vented Rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lugs. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1970-73 Nissan Z hubs 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1984-85 Nissan 300ZX front rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern 1988-92 Toyota 4X4 V6 pickup front calipers marked ‘S12W’ OR 1995-00 Toyota 4-Runner 4X4 V6 front calipers marked ‘S13WB’ Eight bolts grade 10.9, 8 X 1.25 thread diameter and pitch 40 mm long with lock washers Two metal spacer as listed below; O.D. 155 mm I.D. 81 mm Thickness 17 mm Four 10.5 mm holes spaced 4 1/16†equidistance The front dust shield must be trimmed to accommodate the larger caliper, bend your old brake lines gently to fit, make sure they don’t touch anything or they will rub a hole in the brake lines. Port B: Small Four Piston Front Brakes with Solid or Vented Rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lugs. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1970-73 Nissan Z hubs 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1970-78 Nissan Z rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern 1979-85 Toyota 4X4 4 cylinder pickup with solid rotor, front calipers marked ‘S12+8’ OR 1984-85 Nissan 300ZX front rotors 4 X 4 1/16†bolt pattern 1986-88 Toyota 4X4 4 cylinder pickup with vented rotor, front calipers marked ‘S12+8’ Eight bolts grade 10.9, 8 X 1.25 thread diameter and pitch 40 mm long with lock washers Two metal spacer as listed below; O.D. 155 mm I.D. 81 mm Thickness 17 mm Four 10.5 mm holes spaced 4 1/16†equidistance The front dust shield must be trimmed to accommodate the larger caliper, bend your old brake lines gently to fit, make sure they don’t touch anything or they will rub a hole in the brake lines. Port C: Big Rear Disk Brake Conversion 240SX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1989-98 Nissan 240SX calipers and hangers 1984-85 Nissan 300ZX rear rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1986-89 Nissan FWD Maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both modified to fit E-Brake extension available after market and they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Port D: Small Rear Disk Brake Conversion 280ZX 4 X 4 1/2†lugs. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1982-83 Nissan 280ZX rear caliper and hangers 1982-83 Nissan 280ZX rear rotor 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1986-89 Nissan front wheel drive 810 Maxima rear dust shields and hub brackets both modified to fit OR 1980-84 Nissan 810 Maxima Sedan rear bolt on brackets that have the floating dust shield No E-Brake extension available after market but they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. Port E: Bone Stock Small Rear Disk Conversion Maxima 4 X 4 1/2†lugs. Major parts include: 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX 15/16†master brake cylinder 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX rear brake calipers and hangers 1979-81 Nissan 280ZX rotors 4 X 4 1/2†lug pattern 1980-84 Nissan 810 Maxima Sedan rear bolt on brackets that have the screwed-on dust shield E-brake extension available after market and they can easily be fabricated. Rear axle must be removed to install the hub brackets. As for the e-brake extension, it is mealy a section of flat stock with two hole drilled in it. Get one stick of 36" X 1†X 5/32" mild steel flat stock at you local hardware store (1/8" may be easier to find), cut them into two sticks that measure 2" X 1" X 5/32†and drill holes to accommodate the stock e-brake U-shaped bracket and pin and a second pin is needed for the caliper. Holes may be about 1 1/2" apart or so. Not rocket science, simple fabricate that anyone with a small steel ruler, a hacksaw, a small grinder (bench or hand held) and a drill with bits can make in about an hour (if your slow at fabricating stuff). It is cheap enough so if you mess up the first pair, you still have 34" left to play with. Oh Speedway motors, Modern-Motor Sports, Arizona Z, and Outlaw Brakes sells after market stuff too.

ahhhh a 280z ... a horse of another color ! didn't mean to sound like i was knocking your z, or doubting your z tail. was thinking, i know what the 2.8 and the 3.1 can do in a Z/24. is impressive when a z car pulls away from em. wanted to get in on your secrets, was wondering what combo you were running, get an idea for possible future exploration. in 81, had a 79 280zx GL, all stock under the hood, jump on it, butt in gets squatty, front lifts, looks like one of the old drag racers digging in, expecting the front wheels to come off the ground. grab second, ass end all squatty again, chirp the tires, engine winds up again ... might not have been all that fast, but it was a good show, and a few people that clearly could have easily cleaned my clock, chose not to tangle. kinda like a butterfly that looks like a poisonous moth. i'm running a 350 V8 and vette 4 speed ( scarab ) in a 72 z. but, i tell you, even though i know it costs bunches of " more money " than a V8 swap, that turbo z was hair on the back of my neck standing straight up, fun !!! it is neat to see a stock z kick butt on one of those clowns with the coffee can taped to the end of his exhaust pipe. keep up the good work, showing em the tail lights. but be careful and stay safe ! oh, in texas, a small town called the state troopers and requested that the troopers remove the radar speed detector read out sign they had placed to alert drivers as to how fast they were going, in a 45 zone. seems the local kids had figured out, no one was around, and were using it to get an accurate measurement as to, just who really did have the fastest car in town.

had a z/24 89 caviler, yes ... all stock 2.8 V6, and no slouch. even with the automatic, no problem trounching a stock 240z. i think in 91, they went to the 3.1 liter V6. which kicks butt on the 2.8, though it doesn't seem to wind as fast, has a sort of wheezing sound ( stock one's anyway ). what ya running under the hood of your z ? if you took either the 2.8 or the 3.1, you've got some muscle under it !!! i drove Mr Bien's 71 240z, with a 280zx turbo 2.8 , intercooler, modified ignition, large bore, custom injectors, 5 speed. getting on the 280 freeway, doing around 40 mph down the on ramp, stood on it, wound it up to 6200, in 2nd, banged off 3rd, passing cars doing 65 as if they were standing still, 4th gear, easily over 120, into 5th and backed off around 135 mph. this in under 5 seconds. talk about an E ticket ride ... i want one !!! does a 12 second 1/4 mile at sacto race track, street tires and street exhaust. he thinks will dip into the 11's with slicks, but he already busted 2 rear ends, while testing with slicks, and snapped two half shafts. you are right, it sure is fun to go out hunting in a fast 240z, most of the ricers can't believe that their doors just fell off, as the z goes by. be careful out there !!

LOL ! neighbor's cat, whizzed through my other neighbor's sun roof, he left sune roof open a crack to let the heat out. couple weeks earlier, same cat had whizzed on the cowl vent, neighbor turned on air conditioner. he, his girlfriend and, his car pool buddys all had a certain aroma about them all day. car poolers refused to ride home with him. he flushed the vent area with some nature's miracle odor eliminator, week later the cat whizzes through the sun roof. if he had such a self defense system as in this video, he could eliminate the odor permanently, and apparently, get himself a cool tid bit to hang from his rear view mirror to boot ...

a quiet reach around with a courtesy jerk couldn't hurt !!!

took the coward's way out ... not brave enough to go it alone at the depot ... called the MSA and forked out a buck forty eight a piece for the tail light housing rivets, and i think 12 buck a bag for the other rivets. have credit card, will go broke, and if i can get this FIAT, i mean 240 to stay together, i will be going in style ... thanks, everybody, wayne