Daphur280

Any updates on this build?

I see you're putting a 3D printer to some good engineering use! I'm excited to see how this turns out

Pics?

That sounds like a lot of relays. Eventually, (or initially) I will be using a "cleaned up" Z31 harness in place of the 280zxt harness, and when I approach that I will attempt to rewire the fuel pump and FPR to run as it should in that diagram. But in the meantime I just want it to run (reliably) before I change my fuel pump configuration.

Hopefully this gets answered, I have my fuel pump isolated and has its own individual 12v switch, no relay or anything, with my 280zxt harness in my S30 I was having too many issues, so I wired it up independently from the ECU harness. With it that way will I have to worry about wiring it back up to the Z31 ecu or harness to have it run properly or can I leave it be?

Came across these, a little more horizontal but looks like 2x would fit the upper and lower lens

Any updates on your dilemma SDgoods? I finally got a 84 Z31 T/A/C ECU so I'm starting on my swap tomorrow.

Pm replied

Need one to complete my z31 maf/ecu swap, please pm me or email @ morales3@pdx.edu for faster response, my zip is 97317. Please provide part number

So I recently purchased a rokform iPhone case which comes with a RMS clickable locking mount that has 3m adhesive on the back and they also make a suction cup mount. I want to mount the RMS mounting in my 240z but I'm not a fan of using up window space to mount phones but I'm considering mounting my phone to the dash just underneath the 3 gauges will allow me to clip it in horiOntally or vertically. However I'm not sure how we'll the adhesive would hold to the porous dash, and I'm not sure I wanna sand it out to be smooth enough to mount it. I'm posting this on my phone and can't submit a picture so here's a link to their website: http://www.rokform.com/rokshield-v3-ip5/ Does anyone else have this phone case and if so did you mount the lock mount in your Z?

Depending on the width of the shifter fork you may have to use the 5speed shifter, thats what i had to do from my early 4speed to 5speed standard and I had to cut, bend and weld the shifter to be able to keep the shifter boot. Also you can just unbolt the slave without having to open and bleed it.

So the Z hasn't sold and I had some time to tinker, I took another shot at the brakes. 1st: I removed the check valves in the MC: 2nd: Bench bled the MC and made sure that everything was well plugged until I reconnected it to the lines. 3rd: Adjust the push rod about 3/4 turn out 4th: Was not able to JB weld the reaction disk to the push rod, but it felt snug in there when I return the rod back into place, I'm assuming its good because I had to clock it in toe get it seated all the way. 5th: I have some un-named brand pressure bleeder that works similar to Motive power bleeder minus the adjustable pressure regulator. I thought about getting one and connecting it between the bleeder and the coupler, but I was going to wait to see what happen after this attempt. 6th: Installed spring loaded bleeder screws an all 4 corners (don't remember the brand but there not Russell) 7th: Re-bled the system And success! There is still a bit of distance in the pedal, before it went to the floor with almost no pressure and needed to be pump 3x to attain brake pressure, this time around I only need to press about 5/8 to get a good amount of grab. Pretty much following Miles and tamo3's advice solved the issue.

sounds familiar

I had brake cylinders which were shot, the backing plate I cut off, the master cylinder was used as a core, as were my front and rear calipers...

its on craigslist