scott19

Has anyone ever explored the possibility of putting flares from a mid 80's Supra on an 240-280? I don't know if they're separate pieces or an actual part of the fender, but it struck me that they're similar looking to ZG flares but without the notches for the bolts. Anyone ever looked into this?

You said it Mike! Tough being a Georgian sometimes...

I've got one of the xenon urethane air dams on my 260. It's pretty old, having come off of my first z from ten years ago. Now what little paint is left on it is cracked and pitted. I tried bumper cover stripper, but that didn't work. So what are my options? can I sand the urethane safely? is there a filler that can be used for the pitting?

I've played at a semi professional ( i.e. at clubs, getting paid) level for a little over 10 years. Current rig is a Rickenbacker 330 through a Hiwatt 100 watt head into a 2x12 ampeg cabinet, with (too) many pedals. My best advice is to steer away from the " Mary had a little Lamb" stuff and stick to learning your basic chord formations, and to practice strumming. The rest will come. Take every chance to learn from other people, another human beats a book any day. " The guitar is an instrument that takes 6 months to learn, and a lifetime to master"-unknown Good luck, and keep it up! It will come to you!

Hey Mudge, just went through 5 pages of your ordeal, I hope I might be of service to you or whoever might be reading this in the future. First some DGV Z car tips: 1.Make sure ignition system is in top shape. 2.Rebuild the carbs. Kits can be had in the $20 range (each) and include the power valve and accelerator pump diaphragms, which frequently go bad. It's very easy to rebuild these carbs if you have at least average mechanical skills. It also gives you the chance to clean the jet orfices and float bowl. 3.Connect the vacuum advance hose from your distributor to the vacuum fitting on one of your carbs, NOT to the intake itself. If you connect it to the intake, the vacuum advance will be wide open all the time. Plug the vacuum fitting on the other carb. 4.Go through your linkage to make sure everything is synched up and not binding. It's not a bad idea to disconnect the linkage when adjusting the idle speed and mixture. 5.Adjust the the idle speed screws as low as possible ( till the engine rpm gets as low as car can take and still idle reliably). 6.Have the idle MIXTURE screws out about 2-3 turns. Start on one carb and turn the screw in at about 1/4 turn increments, until you hear the engine start to stumble. Back the screw out until the engine starts to regain smooth idle. It's been my experience here to use a vacuum gauge connected to the INTAKE, and to back the screw out till the gauge reaches it's maximum reading, then stop. You MIGHT turn the screw in a hair at this point. 7.Repeat step 6 for the other carb. 8.Adjust your idle SPEED screws to your liking ( I prefer about 800 to 850 rpm). Adjustment back or forward on one of the screws may be necessary until you get a good even idle. 9.If you're still experiencing an off idle hesitation/stumble, adjusting your timing up may help. Common Z car practice is to experiment on pushing it up until you're pinging at top gear under load, then retard it back a bit. 10.Jets? In my opinion, the most important one is the primary idle jet. I have a stock 260 with these carbs, and even after all these above adjustments, I still had a bit of stumble. I was running a 50 in the primary idle jet, a 55 in the secondary. I did what you did and switched them, 55 primary idle, 50 secondary. Definite improvement I just did this, so time will tell if I got rid of the stumble for good. I'll post again in a couple of days with the results. Hope this helps someone.

I'm with you, Thurem. I learned to drive in a 75 coupe deville. The kids at high school used to stand by waiting to laugh when I started to pull in to a parallel spot, but I always left them disapointed when I whipped it right in there! Ha!