Oddmanout84
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Posts posted by Oddmanout84
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Well, I have a JSK fuel rail for my L28ET at the moment, but its for barb style injectors and is running the stock injectors. I've been wanting a Pallnet fuel rail for quite some time, and now I'm finally getting around to revamp my fuel system. Unfortunately it seems he's in a bind with the Toyota crisis and won't be accepting any orders for now..
What I'd be looking for is a -8 or -10 center bore for (preferably) 11mm o ring injectors. I could work with a 14mm as I haven't fully decided on what injectors I'm running, only that I'd like them to be ~440cc. If anyone has a working used one or just one they're not using anymore, please let me know.
Thanks,
Chris
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What did you use to cover the sender hold and filler hole? I just remembered I still have a POR tank sealer kit and it might save some money while I bide time for my fuel cell install.
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In my experience, the bigger concern here is avoiding tight spots where the stainless braid will abrade and destroy whatever it comes in contact with. I don't think I've ever seen it the other way around.
As a former helicopter crewchief I will say that BOTH are possible. Any metal to metal contact, especially hydraulic or fuel lines that are either stainless or hardlines is a serious no-no. They will both destroy each other. Even rubber electrical wires will eat through aluminum over time in a high vibration area. Depending on location, steel braided line will destroy the metal it touches, and in case of it coming into contact with a "sharp" edge it will quickly be frayed and compromise its integrity. Make sure you buy those isolation mounts for all your hoses, and regularly check it to make sure the lines aren't rubbing on anything. Spots of contact can usually be seen pretty easily, as they will leave black marks (wear grease) where they touch.
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Thanks Josephg for the writeup, and thanks Hoov for adding clarification on the sanctioned (right) way to install these. I've been considering doing the same thing to my Z, as the current tank has gotten pretty rusty and I don't know if the local rad shop will be able to fix it. That and I'm trying to replace all the soft lines with AN, so it should make sense. My only questions would be where to attach the grounding strap (one of the filler bolts?) to the body and how I'd build the sheet around the body of the cell where the outlet fuel feed fittings are. AN through bulkhead fittings? I'd be afraid that stress over time with any sort of chassis flex would cause the fittings to crack the plastic around where they enter the cell. Also, is there any regulation to the thickness of the sheet that is used to make the box?
Edit: Also, has anyone heard anything about the internal safety foam that Summit/RCI uses in their fuel cells breaking down over time with pump gas (and the occasional fuel treatment i.e. STP injector cleaner)? I heard an interesting thing on another forum that some offroad racing guys like to use wiffle balls since they don't get eaten by the fuel.
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Wasnt the tax deadline, like last month?
I'm just waiting for my return. Already know about what ballpark its in, but my fuel system just took a dive. Not too happy about it. Hence I will be replacing quite a few things with it.
Edit: Last month? Taxes have always been due by April 15th...
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A new fuel pump and possibly a whole new fuel system and fuel cell.
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I just saw this and my heart skipped a beat, that orange looks almost exactly like my car! Great job on that paint! I love an orange/matte black Z...
Mine was my first paint job too, although my wetsanding wasn't nearly as successful. I couldn't get all the orange peel out without going through to primer. I'll be shooting it again within the next year once I do my sunroof delete, this time with a clearcoat. May also rent a booth next time so I can have better climate control, I think the weather got too cold when I shot my color.
Keep up the good work!
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Oh. My. God.
I've been running the long ones in the back for over a year on my 280.... ._.
The original factory springs were longer in back so I figured it was the same relation with the Eibach progressives...
Edit: Just checked my springs, but mine are a different part #. Springs ending in 2 are in the back. Still, I remember from installation that they were the longer ones. Perhaps the 280z is different. All I know is that it seemed like the front dropped lower than the back did.
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Contacted Haltech, no useful info. They told me to send in the ECU for a 175 AUD repair. Then out of frustration tonight I tried loading the programs again. This time, v6.34, which was the FIRST one I tried, which has NEVER worked before, which the ECU told me was OUTDATED... Instantly crossed into online mode. It works. Wtf. Gremlins...
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FWIW, I never cared for the mesh fairlady grill, especially for the price. I think two 240z grills looks pretty good, or a custom grill like HLS30-08077 has.
BTW, do you need a roof skin? I have one that I really don't see myself using, but you're a little far for local pickup.
Fairlady grill: Wasn't keen on the price either, which is why I was planning to take measurements and fab my own. I bought two pieces of aluminum mesh when I had my 3000GT years back but never used them. Good thing.
I have a '73 roof that's *mostly* rust free (just a small patch mid windshield) that I'll be using. Even has a decent black headliner. We cut it at the bottom ends of each pillar, so I was considering welding it on at those points. Don't know if that idea is better than just welding it at the top of each on my existing pillars... um, hopefully that was clear enough.
Compression check:
1. 140 (145 w/ 30w)
2. 148
3. 149
4. 148
5. 148
6. 149
Looks good enough to me.
Tomorrow: burping the coolant again, this time with a better overflow tank installed.
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You and me are in just about the same boat at the same time. Only mine doesn't shoot white smoke at any time beyond warmup, figured that's just condensation. Don't have an oil catch system either, but my cooling system is all out of whack. Check your radiator fluid level, start up the car with the cap off and watch it. Let it warm up a bit until the engine "burps". When I revved mine during this I got small bubbles, and unless my eyes were playing tricks on me some of the bubbles were oily. I'm PRAYING its not a BHG, but I'm expecting the worst...
edit: BTW, I don't have the intercooler piping-oil issue that you have, but then again my turbo is freshly built. Rebuilding the turbo is easy as long as you're not dealing with a bent shaft or anything.
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Try putting the boost gauge in the hole nearest to the steering wheel when reinstalling gauges. It`ll be a lot easier to read.
You also have to do something about that front grill. I`ll be combining two early style 240z grills to cover the whole front opening on my 78Z.
Oh, I will be. Boost gauge going right above the AFR, or in its place, along with the oil pressure all in the pillar cluster. The only reason the boost gauge is there now is because that's the only place it would fit, and it was better than nothing. Lol, the grill. That was just an experiment to see what a full grill would look like, all I did was bolt on the top and zip tie a smaller 280 grill to the bottom. Not sure if I like it, may be going with a mesh 432 type grill. That experiment has been going on for over 6 months, I've been too lazy to remove it.
What happned to your drivers head light bucket
paint chipsGOOD EYE. The whole reason I got the 240z hood from my friend is because of a little mishap. I was parked at my uncles house behind his van for a day. When he got up to go to work the next morning he forgot the car was there and backed straight into it. Crushed the hood, bent the grill, chipped the paint on both buckets and slightly bent them as well. He was pretty upset, and made himself half a day late to work just to help me bend and fix the hood to a somewhat more "straight" state. It still looked like ass but was fine until I got the new hood. I still have to repaint though... which is going to happen anyway. Those T-Tops need to go bye-bye.
However, all this cosmetic crap is probably going to take a back seat to the possible BHG that I may have. Still running tests for diagnosis, but it doesn't look good. Car running hot at idle, bubbles in the radiator when revved, slightly OILY bubbles sometimes... #2 spark plug mysteriously clean... The only thing that doesn't fit is the lack of white smoke. Still have not figured out what the "mystery noise" is but it could be exhaust gasses being forced into the coolant/oil lines.
Hard to see why I'd have a BHG. The car has not been pushed hard, I've used only premium fuel, and its always shown nearly full rich on the AFR while under load. Never heard a ping either...
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An interesting question, since I can't see it in the pictures... Is that RB still fitted with a forward oil sump or does it already have a 200ZR/custom made rear sump pan in it? My god is that header a work of art, too bad you have to chop it for steering clearance. RHD conversion? heh heh.
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Oh, and the car has a new hood, non-vented, lifted off of an early Z. Also installed the spare hinges I had kicking around, replacing my old bent ones. Now the entire thing is flush.
Also, last shot of the dash before I take it out again and replace all the gauges. I'll do a little cleanup as well, and hopefully reattach the wheel well vinyl. Maybe I'll even get around to getting the stereo to work again, but its still hard to imagine cutting holes into the nice black door cards I have...
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Awwww... ****....
I thought it was you, but I just made a post in another thread responding to you talking about being a Phrog crewchief. Now I feel like an idiot, lol.
Its Colgan.
I have you to thank for introducing me to this site, though I never bought that RB before I left Oki years ago. Wish I had but... I only had 2 weeks to get out of there after we got back. Anyway, after I got out I went back home and restored that Z I had told you about. Here's a link to the build so you know I wasn't bullshitting you: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/69221-new-z-project/
Decided to go the "easy and available" route since it was mostly just me in the garage teaching myself. Ended up using an L28ET with a Haltech E6K ECU.
Its good to see that you're back, and to see that you now have a Z build going on. I'm interested to see the progress.
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well i was a crewchief on CH46e for the last 10 years. I have just over 2000hrs, 1100 of which are logged with night vision goggles. I also have in the ball park of 900hrs crewing casevac missions over in Iraq. This past summer i flew my last flight to Davis Mothen AB to retire the last CH46 of HMM 161. We (HMM 161) are now a V-22 unit in the Marine Corps. I switched over to the Osprey but decided I was done flying i am now just a mechanic.
Small world. I was a 46 crewchief until '08 when I got out after 5 years. Most of my time was with HMM-262 in Okinawa, did my last year in 164 at Pendleton. I liked the Phrog too much to switch over to the Osprey and figured it was time to get back to school, which is where I am now. Semper Fi.
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Not exactly sure how your climate control system works, but I know in my 280z I had the same problem for a while. Turns out I had a vacuum line off in my engine compartment between the heater and the solenoids. After I plugged it back in the heat flowed once more, and the vent switch worked. Can't give any advice for that black box of yours though...
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well... weight is an issue as well. the stock dash and all of its randomness is pretty heavy (i want to say like 20+lbs), and the skin from the 240sx is only like 7-8ish. So if you are gonna call function/form, weight wins.
Well if it were me in that case and I wanted to lose as much weight as possible, I'd just fab a lighter dash.
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Been running the car for over a week now since the install. The clunking sound is still present during warmup, but the rough running is gone and the car idles normally. The AFR gauge, though, seems to be dead for some reason. It constantly blinks the first red light of lean, no changes. Odd. I really want to figure out what the clunk is though. Its not like any other clunk I've heard an engine make, because its not regular. I can't begin to describe the sound, somewhere between a percolating coffee pot and turning a cement mixer that's filled with large irregular pieces of wood. A very deep sound, but hard to hear sometimes. What is this sound and why is it there... it doesn't make sense...
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Just curious as to what the difficulty of the swap is, I heard that's it's one the cheaper easier ones but I'm curious as to just HOW easy it is. Does anything need to be fabbed or machined? Or is it mostly bolt-on? What would one require to do such a swap. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
Mostly easy. Some wiring. Very little fabbing. A lot more searching.
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BTW, most FI systems turn the ground on and off for the injectors and hold the 12 steady.
Huh. I thought most cars switch components on and off by switching power on and off, not grounds.
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Take this as it is; my opinion, but I've seen the 240sx dash in a couple Z's so far. Why would you want that thing? its just so... boring. It completely lacks the character of the original dash, and looks like it belongs in a utilitarian econocar. Unless your dash is really that shot and you have an S13 dash worth hacking apart,the question is why? I'm curious to see.
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Scratch that. Took the plunge. Gauges are on their way and should ship next week! Now I just need to scout out a good location for that boost vac sensor to tap into...
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The start to something awesome #2
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Nice. I bet that HKS surge tank was hard to find...