Oddmanout84
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Posts posted by Oddmanout84
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Is the stock RB alternator really so bad that it can't handle the amperage of a 30+ year old car?
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Of course it's never good like that but I don't see a problem with running it as long as you don't spin the motor up a lot...
You might also want to try BHJ Dampers. They sell L-series dampers with trigger wheel setup, sensor and sensor bracket, for $500. The damper by itself is like $370 or something. Maybe RB motors will be around that range.
I dunno about that price quote there. All the L series harmonic dampers I've looked at there START at around $457, and another $140 and change for a trigger wheel. That's not even counting sensors or brackets (which I don't see there).
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Yeah, that's a "bit grimy" enough to eat off of.
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That video would have been so much more enjoyable if the jet pack had detonated and the camera zoomed out from the patch of fiery wreckage.
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I have used those on I don't know how many car projects in an attempt to avoid buying additional larger cutting equipment. You will use MANY of them should you choose to take that path. If your concern is cost effectiveness, get a hacksaw and a few extra blades. Otherwise, the suggestions provided above (sawzall, bandsaw etc) are really the best bet.
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Down, but far from out, my 280z remains.
A lot has happened since early summer, but to sum it up quickly the machine shop took forever to work on the motor. So long, that I completely got out of habit of working on the car. Some other work was done while I was bored, as long as it didn't cost and measurable amount of money (the aero and tail lights were free). The engine came back from the machine shop cleanly bored and decked moths later, the entire rotating assembly balanced together.... and went straight to the back of the garage. And so it sat. I sold my beloved Harley Davidson to buy a reliable daily driven Mazda, and have only recently begun collecting the rest of the parts I need to rebuild the L28. Clevite bearings in standard size were remarkably hard to find from one of my usual suppliers, so they were eventually found on ebay.
And so now it begins, the rebuild.
And now I'm not so sure about the L28... some better deals may have come along...
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I would not have dared to rain on the OP's parade, but now that he seems to be out of steam and this is technical (not classifieds)...
The rear drain (or vent in my opinion) is best done with a fitting made to adapt from pipe-thread to AN. I was specifically peeking around the oil drain galleys on my S2 RB25 when I had it apart to clean everything up. The 'freeze plug' sits at least 1/4"+ off the bottom of the oil galley. If you actually wanna drain oil from it, it's best off to drill and tap a hole so it sits squarely on the bottom of the oil galley. Like I said, however, with the head being slanted and the plug hole being above the bottom anyways, the chance of draining a substantial amount of oil with it is pretty low, IMHO; particularly if you aren't pulling ridiculous forward G's. Just install the head with the plug removed and visualize how high the oil level would have to be to cause it to actually drain oil; even with the forward g-force scenario.
If you look at the front of the motor, the head is slanted to the drivers side and the oil drains are on the drivers side. Likewise, the engine rotates clockwise, so the rotating assembly is going to make the air in the crankcase and oil drain galleys try to rotate clockwise as well. In other words, downward on the drivers side and upwards on the passengers side. At high rpm with the engine spinning so furiously (and with small room to spare in the crankcase) it is probably quite difficult for the air to rush up to the head to displace the large volume of oil constantly trying to drain out by passing the oil going the other way on the driver's side.
With that in mind, it makes sense that the RB needs a big air-exchange path on the passenger side of the engine to help displace the oil that is trying to drain out of the head on the driver's side.
As such, I still think you could drill and tap a hole anywhere on the passenger side and run it down to the sump; ideally above the windage tray.
If you wanna TIG a bung onto the freeze plug, I am sure summit racing has them. I don't know an equivalent year/make/model of freeze plug that would work, however.
To add to what WizardBlack is saying, refer to page two of this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/72928-rb-rebuild/page__st__20
It explains a lot about this issue from the standpoint of someone who has a great deal of experience with these engines.
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UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE!!!!!
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Sorry guys, this entire turbo setup has been sold to two members here on the site. I will leave it up to them to let u know how these parts worked out.
Really?
I was worried when I saw those FS posts on CTZCC. Sad... Was looking forward to that build.
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I did this to my Z at the beginning of the summer. Yes, its a 280z. Its not done, by any means, as I have to get the gaskets to fit...
But one thing for you to consider is that the 240z had small metal clips that were welded(?) to the body on the BOTTOM area of the tail light surrounds. The surrounds slot into them and they keep them from waving around. Otherwise, your only attachment points are the top holes where the plastic rivets go... not a great amount of support using just them... I have not yet come up with a solution for my car, but I highly suggest finding one before yours hits the road (and before you paint it, if that's still possible).
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Need help on how to route an aeromotive 13109 fuel pressure regulator with a JSK fuel rail on a 240z Turbo please help.
thanks,
Juan
Very easy. Get a correctly sized AN plug for one end, use the bottom hole for the return. To connect it to the fuel rail use an AN to NPT adaptor. I'd rather mine were installed on a fully AN system, but right now my return feed from the FPR uses an AN to barb fitting.
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Just don't try to spray 280z style vinyl seats (the ones with the fabric center area) and expect good results...
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I have a full set of revolution gauges in the dash of my 280z. Believe me, you will want more than just their speedo and tach...
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I think the fact that he said he had to use bondo to patch up bullet holes adds to the value... and is somewhat disconcerting at the same time...
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Just out of curiosity has anyone every tried to mold the ZG flares into the Z body to make them look like a part of the fenders as oppose to bolt on flares?
MSA sells the same flares without the cutouts. So the answer is yes.
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What's that thing next to the car? I want one of those, is it for sale too or is it included with the car?
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As far as I know, the KADET never existed, its just a moniker people like to apply when they turbo their KA motors. As far as I know though, the block is the same for both the single and dual cam models. I've heard people say things about also changing the timing chain or the pistons, but I'm not an expert.
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Not knowing a whole lot about the stock gauges in the '78 280z's, I'm currently wondering what it would involve to put an aftermarket tach in my z. My stock gauge is sticking at around 3k rpms, and it gets annoying. I'm looking at either a GlowShift or AutoMeter pedestal tach, and both are electrical.
Is the stock tachometer electrical or mechanical? Either way, has anyone done this swap? The only aftermarket gauges I've seen in S30s are Auto Meters, and I haven't seen any writeups on installs.
Thank you!
Electrical. Connect the stock signal wire going to the old tach into the new one. Easy.
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Thanks guys. Yes, I got their Gold coat and PC-9.
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I recently sent out a set of L28ET pistons to Swaintech for ceramic dome coating and anti friction coatings for the skirt. Yes, they're stock replacement CAST pistons, make fun of me all you want for dumping more money for coatings than the actual cost of the pistons. Couldn't see going forged for a street engine, but I wanted some extra insurance.
Anyway, I got a thought in my head the other day. Knowing that the ceramic coating not only insulates the piston from heat and in turn increases combustion chamber temps, could this be causing more unforeseen problems than it may solve? Namely, since my cylinder head and valves DO NOT have coatings, could the increased temps be increased and focused on my cylinder head, leading to higher coolant temps and possible detonation? I'm worrying that it was a bit dumb not to catch this before I sent my pistons out, but fortunately the engine is not back together yet and I still have time (though not the money at the moment) to get the chambers coated. I've seen threads on engines that have received these coatings and the advantages, but so far have not found much documentation on disadvantages (besides possible break-down and flaking).
If anyone is willing to shed some light on this, I'd be interested. That and if the coating is going to increase my combustion temps so greatly as to it being enough to completely throw off my Haltech's current tune.
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My "mystery fan blower thing" was a useless non-working piece of junk ever since I first bought the car in Temecula CA. I had no idea what it was at the time. I ran my Z through the hot SoCal summer and then drove it home to CT before I went overseas, taking the southern route through the desert and the deep south. Never had a problem with vapor lock. Ever.
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I cringed a little when i saw the back of that thrust washer. That thing is a smidge more fubar than I thought. Straightaway From WME btw (Side note: My wme pun name will make sense now
hah). Best of luck man. I have to admit I feel kind of bad in some odd way watching your project, Its like every time i took a step towards getting mine on the road, yours took a step back. Bad voodoo.Get that thing back on the road asap!
Working on it!
Waiting on parts, then waiting on machining, then I get to put humpty dumpty back together again. In the meantime I'm improving other areas that would otherwise keep the car from moving (possible 240sx transmission swap, cleaning up ALL the engine bay wiring). The only thing I'm missing is a welder, otherwise I'd be fabricating a Ron Tyler diff mount and fixing my fenders under the flares. May remedy that this weekend. -
Check the small ends on your rods. In my case the rods actually stood up by themselves in the piston. Not the sort of resistance you want when you are running your engine at redline.
I still have further checks to do, but I guess I've essentially already tested this one when I put each piston/rod assembly on my bench. They're all flopping around nicely though not in any areas they shouldn't (that's I've seen thus far). I am worried about them being slightly bent though, with how much play was in the crank.
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Bummer on the thrust face...
I never start the car with the clutch depressed. Always in "N", same goes for sitting at a light. Clutch is either 'on' or 'off'...can't stand to sit there with the foot on the clutch, grinding away at the bearing thrust face...
I do the same. It bothers me to start my girlfriend's car because you're forced to depress it in order to start. I've actually yelled at her when I first noticed she was holding the clutch in while stopped in traffic. She doesn't do it anymore.
hah). Best of luck man. I have to admit I feel kind of bad in some odd way watching your project, Its like every time i took a step towards getting mine on the road, yours took a step back. Bad voodoo.
Waiting on parts, then waiting on machining, then I get to put humpty dumpty back together again. In the meantime I'm improving other areas that would otherwise keep the car from moving (possible 240sx transmission swap, cleaning up ALL the engine bay wiring). The only thing I'm missing is a welder, otherwise I'd be fabricating a Ron Tyler diff mount and fixing my fenders under the flares. May remedy that this weekend.
ModernS30's 1972 Datsun 240z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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I would like.