cygnusx1
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Posts posted by cygnusx1
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Well I just wanted to run through my current project. I successfully dropped an 83 Turbo motor/eccs into my 76Z last year with a SS 2.5" open exhaust and downpipe. It ran great BONE stock with 100K on the motor. I had tons of fun but I knew the 100K turbo was going to fizzle soon. Next I made a grainger type controller and boosted to 10psi. I had fun for about 2000 miles and then geriatric turbo started to hobble. "zcarsmakemyheadhurt" has hooked me up with a TO4B hybrid turbo and I picked up a nice new 17" x 8" x 3" Spearco. I am adding the adjustable BEGI FMU for boosting the Fuel pressure on boost. I subsequently purchased the Holly (Walbro 265) external fuel pump from Summit to help acheive the fuel pressure and flow that I may need. I am also going with a 240SX Throttle Body and a nice Mr. Gasket 16" electric fan which is very thin and should give clearance for the IC return pipe; again from Summit.
I am still assembling the machine and I plan to tune it conservatively at about 14psi boost peak. I think that the FMU and stock 83 fuel system will be able to keep me in the right A/F mixture range at least up until 14psi boost. I won't be racing the car officially. I am going to drive it to shows on nice weekends and run a few twisty roads around town.
I hope to see anywhere from 260-280rwhp and 300-315 rwft-lb when I get it on a dyno.
I reinforced the front diff mount by bolting a stainless strap to the upper part of the mount and wrapped it under the crossmember with a hard rubber strap sandwiched under it to act as an anti-noise cushion. CV's are in the future plan.
I will follow up as it progresses.....or blows up
Any further suggestions, comments, tips and tricks?
Dave
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Blow off valve? Why would you take your foot off the gas anyhow?
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I just want to be useful so since I have been spending TONS of time researching ways to plumb my spearco to my TO4B I though I would share some of my findings.
Here are some resources:
http://www.burnsstainless.com/AluminumTube/aluminumtube.html
http://www.burnsstainless.com/Hardware/SiliconeHose/siliconehose.html
http://www.bakerprecision.com/purosil7.htm
http://www.turbohoses.com/Couplers.htm
http://shop.airflowonline.com/
OBVIOUS: http://www.ebay.com
Dave
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Search google for G2 and brake paint. It is a popular chemistry set of ingredients ready to mix for painting brake parts. I bought mine on ebay. It is extremely durable and easy to keep clean. The little silver Z was just a cardboard cutout I made as a stencil and a can of silver header spray paint. A trick I learned from Martha Stewart
I am in Putnam County, NY which is about 1/2 hour North of White Plains on the East side of the Hudson River. -
I have heard that a classic VW Bug chrome front bumper wll fit nicely on the front of a Z. Has anyone tried this and are there any photos or tips?
Now that I mounted my Spearco Intercooler, the large '76 bumper looks like it will significantly block air flow into the front end.
Dave
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To drop any ZX motor into the S30, you dont need the driveshaft from the ZX. You could use the entire S30 driveline including transmission. If the "donor" car is nice, you are probably paying a decent amount for it. I would not butcher it. For reference, you can find good running ZX Turbo cars with 100K miles on them that are rusted to death for between 400-700bucks. You can still sell most of the parts off of them anyhow. Oh and to answer your question 2+2 Engine will be fine in an S30. It's the same.
SAVE THE "WHALES" -- oh, I mean the "ZX 2+2's"
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Wanna hear 11:1 blow through "6 into 2" twice pipes with tripple webers and nothing but twin glasspacks.
It's the twice pipe setup form Jim Cook and I think also his headers.
http://www.hvmparts.com/dc/NYRALLY/Trippple%20WeberZ.avi
I built this with friends after school about 17 years ago and it still exists and runs.
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I finally got tired of looking at the rusty Toyota 4-piston calipers on my Z so a broke down and bought a G2 brake painting kit. Since I like red calipers on silver Porsches and Vettes, I chose red for my silver Z. Take a look.
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What you want is the POR-15 engine painting kit. It is the ULTIMATE engine paint. Check out my photos. Link in signature.
This paint actually requires a semi-rusty surface to adhere the best. You can hit this stuff pretty hard with a hammer and screwdriver and it won't chip.
you can order it here: http://www.prp-porstore.com/
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Two pumps in parallel will double the flow and keep the PSI the same as one pump was.
Two pumps in series will double the pressure and keep the flow the same as one pump was.
These rules of thumb apply to positive displacement pumps (almost like our fuel pumps) and are NOT factoring in plumbing losses due to pipe friction so when I said "double", I don't mean EXACTLY double. And when I say "the same", I don't mean EXACTLY the same.
I think thats what I think.
Dave
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Whatta ya mean not pretty? That engine compartment is super clean! Oh by the way you put the battery on the wrong side.
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zcarsmakemyheadhurt is building me a T04B with a 300ZX water cooled center section for my 280Z with 83turbo motor. I was thinking, would it be feasible to T into the two heater core lines right where they go into the firewall and run them behind the motor over to the turbo? I would think those heater lines can move enough water for cooling the turbo bearing.
Am I all wet here?
Dave
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I have the car up on stands waiting for my new TO4B turbo and CV half shaft adapters. I have the inner and outer tie rod ends off for cleaning inspection and repacking while I wait for parts. I would like to add grease to the steering rack while I am at it.
How do I grease the steering rack in my 280Z?
Also, can the steering column be greased or serviced in any way?
Thanks,
Dave
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OK, I am a little embarassed to submit this link but here is how I documented the wiring I did during my swap...It may help you.
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I was looking at water injection as a way to allow me to raise my boost without worrying too much about detonation. However, from what I am reading here, WI may be overkill when using an intercooler at 12-14psi with stock eccs and stock injectors.
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This is what worked for me.
I just put an 83 turbo engine that was automatic, into my 76Z with a 5-speed. I used the 76 280Z flywheel, the 83 Turbo Starter and one of Nissans 5-speeds rear section bolted to my original 4-speed bell housing.
HOWEVER, this drove me nuts for a while>> When you take off the automatics starter ring gear and expose the back of the crankshaft, you MUST remove a spacer/adapter from the back of the automatics crankshaft. It looks like it is actually part of the crank, but it isnt! Take it off! -- Listen to vashonz and I
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The alternator will also overcharge if it is not getting a good reading of voltage level back from the battery on the "sense" input of the alternator. I think it is the "S" on the diagrams and maybe even stamped on the alternator.
WARNING:
IF you are in a 280Z, and you are reading high voltage with the charge light on, check your fusible links......
http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32315
read my new thread ^
mine was blown and caused exactly that problem.
FYI -Mine is a 280ZX alternator with jumpers in place of the mechanical regulator to convert to solid-state regulation.
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I just found a toasted fusible link under the hood of my 76 Turbo Z. It is the Right-Front fusible link of the four that are mounted on the relay bracket under the two white plastic covers. My tailights were intermittent, the dash voltmeter, and coolant temp gauge were all reading strange. After poking around in the car, I found the burnt fusible link. It is the first electrical problem I have had in my Z in 14 years (6 months as a Turbo). The diagrams I have are real tough to read. I put in a new fusible link and everything went back to normal but after 1/2 hour of driving, the link was pretty hot again. Does anyone know what that Right-Front link feeds so I can start tracing wires?
Thanks,
Dave
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I am thinking about adding WI to my turboZ. I want to run it up to 12-14psi. It's a totally stock 83 L28 Turbo motor. I will add an I/C soon also. I also plan on doing a turbocharger upgrade very soon. Anyone have any water injection kit experience? I have seen WI kits from 200-600 bucks. What should I look for in a WI system or should I not go there at all?
BTW - I really like the new look and layout of the site. GOOD JOB!
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Cygnus - are you routing the breather from the valve cover into the J-pipe?? I had considered doing that... but um.. isn't boosted pressurized air then going to get forced into the valve cover?? Am I looking at the picture wrong?
No, the dishwasher drain hose
goes from the valve cover down to the intake boot just after the AFM. It is just an illusion. I soldered up some 1/2 inch copper water pipe and elbows to get the reach I needed under the throttle body and down to the rubber intake boot. -
Are there any off-the-shelf solutions for a more solid mount under the diff nose without the annoying noise of a solid metal mount. Perhaps a urethane mount?
Dave
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Well, I went out to the shed yesterday, got two shoe-fulls of snow, and cranked over the Z to wake it up. It fired in 1/2 second like it really wanted to go out for a ride. I turned on the lights and the fronts went on but no rears. I flicked the light stalk off and on again and about 2 seconds later, I saw the red light reflect in the rearview mirror. The rear lights all came on.
It must be a bad switch contact in the stalk. You think?
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The only trouble I have with my P90A is that my injectors are too loud!
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My recently finished turboz is sitting in the shed connected to its solar battery charger waiting for the snow to go away. I had it out about two weeks ago before the snow. I noticed that all the rear lights are out...what would cause all to go out? I havent gotten the will power to go into the 5 degree and dark shed to diagnose yet but I want to get a mental head start before I get in there. Any ideas? Everything else seems to work fine.
Maybe this belongs in the electrical section but being a recent turbo swap...
Spring Hopping!
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Yes I know its addictive, I turned up the boost in my WRX within 2 months of buying it new..and I'm conservative
bastaad525,
The FMU I got has onset adjustment. All it does is bleed the boost signal so that the diaphram to raise the fuel pressure acts more slowly. I understand that ideally the FUEL CURVE should be BOOST, AND RPM dependant. But I'm really going to try to use the FMU to keep from getting too lean under WOT and at Max boost. After reading your reply, I thought about that grainger valve I built for the wastegate actuator. If I put one of those in the boost sense line of the FMU, I can have the FMU sitting pretty doing nothing until a preset boost around 90% of my max boost setting at the wastegate. That should keep everything running on pure stock ECU parameters until Max boost. Larger injectors would be nice but I just cant see changing them just yet. I will look out for all the pitfalls of the FMU and will try to make it work. My argument, like yours, is that the stock Turbo EFI system is pretty much capable of handling intercooled, 10-13 psi based on the general consensus here. On that note, I would like to run on that edge but have that FMU "band-aid" up my sleeve to keep from leaning at the breaking point. I do not race and dont drive it much, so for the few occasions that I get next to a "Hawnda" at a light , I dont want to worry about going lean.