cygnusx1
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Posts posted by cygnusx1
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Just a note....I am still running rich on decel and idle. I also noticed some weird stuff regarding my ECU green LED so I started a new thread.
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Hi I have completed my Turbo swap and it runs great except for a couple of things.
1) It seems to run rich idle and decelerating with the TPS set properly.
2) After warm-up it idles a bit bumpy and smelly.
3) Turning the idle mixture screw in/out on the AFM has no effect on idle quality.
3) Green LED is lit with key ON and after warming up it flashes erraticly>
on----off-on-off-----------on-off-on--------off-----------------on-of-on...etc. like morse code.
LED does this ^ at idle AND while reving steady at 2000-3000rpm. When I let go of the gas pedal, as the revs come down, the light goes solid green until it hits idle. Then it goes erratic again.
FACTS:
ECU is 83 Turbo automatic remanufactured
Oxygen Sensor is a new Bosch Auto-Parts unit
All stock 83 Turbo sensors are being used and are wired in
83 Turbo Motor
5-speed Z tranny
All new injectors, tuneup parts, and timing set properly.
May have a tiny leak where the custom DP connects to the wastegate
Exhaust shop busted one stud off the wastegate- GRRRRRRR
Anyone know if the LED behavior is normal? And is this connected to my rich idle and decel?
Thanks,
Dave C.
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Take a look at some of my photos. They may help you out.
#2 is to raise the idle when the AC is turned on. If you dont use the AC then you can leave the vacuum hose off #2
#1 is the engine idle speed controller it should go to that little, steel, vacuum rail that gets screwed to the outboard side of the intake manifold. Ultimately that vacuum line connects to the VCM or Vacuum Control Module that is tied into the ECCS system via the FI harness.
#3 is the EGR that sucks exhaust into the intake during certain driving conditions for emmision control. It should go to that little, steel, vacuum rail that gets screwed to the outboard side of the intake manifold. Ultimately that vacuum line connects to the VCM or Vacuum Control Module that is tied into the ECCS system via the FI harness.
BTW "that little, steel, vacuum rail that gets screwed to the outboard side of the intake manifold" is missing in your car.
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Which route should I take for making boost adjustments on my stock 83Turbo motor.
1) Grainger Valve.
2) Adjustable length wastegate actuator rod.
What are the advantages/disadvantages? Any photos of your adjustable boost setup?
Thanks.
Dave C.
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When you put in the LSD did you bump any of the fuel lines accidently?
Timing chain stretch is relatively easy to check. See any service manual. I doubt it is bad enough to cause surges in power but you never know.
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IMHO bastaad525:
Easiest and maybe cheapest way out.....and into a good running 240ZTurbo. Part out your N/A motor and your current Turbo motor. This will allow you to recoup some cash. Start shopping for a RUNNING and COMPLETE 81-83 ZXTurbo (5 speed or automatic). They can be very CHEAP and still run great. Drive it, buy it. Document all the connections and wires in the running ZX Turbo and put the whole system (motor and wiring) into the 240 exactly like it was in the ZX. NO MODS untill it runs as good as it did in the ZX.
I know its a whole new project but at this point......
Good Luck
Dave C.
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We need more details. What year is the motor? Was it an N/A motor originally? Are you adding the turbo "stuff" from a ZXT motor to an N/A Z motor? The N/A fuel injection system will not handle a Turbo without modifications.
Typically what you would need is an entire ZXT motor, fuel injection system and some wiring harnesses from 81-83ZXT to make a Z into a Turbo Z. This will get you a fast and durable car. ZXT drivetrains and cars are fairly easily obtained and are not always very costly. I picked up a 100K mile 83 ZXT Car in perfect running condition from ebay for $530. The motor swap was a bit technical but fairly easy.
Your lightened flywheel will bolt onto the ZXT motor and you could use a heavy duty 280Z clutch to handle the extra ponies.
Dav C.
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Hmmm..are you using a 240Z fuel tank or a 280ZX or 280Z fuel tank? My 280Z does that when I am very low on fuel. Z's need surge tanks when you start to put serious g-force on them. I would think that if you use a 240Z tank with a Turbo FI motor the problem would be even worse. My tach moves around a little when this happens but not much.
Dave C.
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Background info: It is a recently finished 83ZXT motor into my 76Z with the entire 83ZXT ECCS system transplanted. Timing is 24 BTDC.
Today I discovered that the thermostat was stuck open so I put in a good one that I tested in hot water. It is a 180 deg one. The car seems to run much less rich everywhere except downhill deceleration where I can hear pops in the exhaust that may indicate still a bit rich on decel? I set the TPS idle contacts very close so that it come off the idle contacts VERY quickly after touching the gas pedal....maybe it is too close and I need to back it off a bit. I will try this tomorrow. Also, turning the idle-air-mixture screw on the AFM at idle, seems to make NO difference in idle smoothness, speed, or smell. In my N/A motor, this screw actually used to make a noticable difference in idle smoothness when turning it from in to out. Driving at low RPM and very light throttle causes the motor to "buck-bump-miss" just a tiny bit. I suspect this may be also related to the TPS contacts.
Don't get me wrong, it is running 99% perfect I just want to iron out these little quirks.
Thanks for the input.
Dave C.
EDIT: BTW: should the green LED flash or not and what does it mean either way?
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What are common causes for the 280ZXT motor to run rich? Mine seems rich as the new tailpipe turned black inside very quickly. When I come to a stop the "vapor trail" smells awfull. It is running great otherwise but it seems to run too cold. It usually runs between 140-160 degrees-F. Could that make it really rich? It has a new oxygen sensor and new injectors. The ECCS system is wired correctly AFAIK I checked it over and over comparing it to the Nissan prints. All the injectors are ticking OK and fuel pressure is to spec. I could pull a fast one and add some boost but thats not the right solution.
VEHICLE:Bone stock 83 Turbo Motor and ECCS with 2.5" SS Exhaust and DP. in a 76Z.
Dave
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Yup little throttle stopper screw was too high. I turned it down a bit and locktite keeps it there. It idles nicely now. Duh, I figured out why it idled high....the motor was from an automatic!
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Yes I still have all those vacuum modules on the intake that came with the Automatic Turbo. One that holds the revs up for the automatic trans to shift smoothly sounds like it would be the culprit. But which is it? There is an Idle Control Valve, the AC Idle-up valve, the Air bypass valve, the EGR valve. The motor now idles correctly at 800 or so RPMs. and idles up when I turn on the AC. I tried pinching the hose for the Air bypass valve and it had no effect which tells me that that valve is closing correctly after warm up.
Hmmmm.....
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Well I drove the Turbo Z I just finished building. Runs great and pulls hard. I actually put it in a car show tonight. However, in spirited driving, I notice that the rev's don't drop fast enough to match the next gear speed during upshifts. It is hard to describe. Basically, the engine RPM drops very slowly between shifts. Is this a normal characteristic of a turbo motor or is it because the EFI was from an automatic ZXT. Is there anything that will make the RPM come down quicker in between shifts?--other than bumping the drivetrain with the clutch like I do now. It forces me to wait between gears in order to upshift smoothly.
76Z with complete 83 factory turbo engine and EFI with all emission ctrls stuff in place x-cept the cat. It has a 2.5" S.S. exhaust with a Magnaflow.
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I went to Nissan just for kicks and they wanted $140.00 for the original
. I went across the street (literally) and bought a Bosch one for $35.00. I put it in and the car exhaust smells much less, runs smoother and idles smoother. I had to make a lead extension for it though -no problem. -
Thanks.
Shopping for O2 sensor tomorrow.
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Hey there,
My 280Z Turbo was running pretty smooth for the first few days after the swap. I had an exhaust system put on it last week. SS 2.5" including custom DP. They changed my O2 sensor in the process 'cause the original one broke. Now my Turbo motor exhibits these "pops" in the exhaust at idle. You can hear the "pops" at the tailpipe and feel them in the motor vibration. I am blaming the cheapo O2 sensor and I am trying to get an original one or a better one.
good luck
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What are the side effects of a slow reacting oxygen sensor? The exhaust shop accidently stripped the original 83ZX Turbo oxygen sensor
so they put one off the floor in temporarily. They said it was not a great one and that it was slow reacting. Which oxygen sensor should I get to replace the original 83 Turbo one? I dont want to spend a fortune on one but I want it to run right. Any suggestions? The car seems to run good but idles a little bumpy. Back to question one: What will a bad oxygen sensor do to the car? Run rich?
Thanks,
Dave C.
PS. I'm still working on a set of wiring plans for you'all planning to put a turbo motor into a fuel injected Z ( 75-78 )
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Yeeeeeeeeha! Smoke-em if ya got em. I am gonna go try that!!
Nice Car Z Man377
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The 83 Turbo motor that I just finished installing in my 76 Z idles at 1000 to 1100rpm. This seems a bit high. I have the timing set to factory spec. The motor and ECCS is totally '83 stock. It shows about 19-20 in-vac. The motor was out of an automatic and is now with a 5-speed. What should it idle at and how can this be adjusted? I cant seem to find any vacuum leaks anywhere. When I open the oil cap the motor stumbles which seems to be a good sign of an air-tight motor.
Thanks.
Dave C.
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Thanks for the note.
I have been driving it with the temporary 2-1/8" flexible exhaust pipe stuffed up the downpipe and connected to the old Z exhaust system with fiberglass tape. I have been restricting myself to about 4psi and about half throttle. So far it feels great! It runs soooooo nice. Just touch the key and it fires right up and idles like an electric motor. Torque is also amazing. The sound of the turbo is, well, MUSIC to my ears. Tuesday I am going to bring it to an exhaust shop to make a custom stainless system. I am going to try to twist their arm to make me a 3" downpipe with 45' bends in it. The rest of the system will be 2-1/2" open all the way back to a Magnaflow 6" round 2-1/2" pass thru muffler. A Summit Racing clamp-on 3" Stainless tip will end it.
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-690051.jpg
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/ss/gifs/title03.jpg
muffler#14616
I really hope they can make the downpipe. Getting the turbo outlet flange may be tough.
Dave C
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Anyone running an oil thermostat with their oil cooler and what temp should oil run at?
Dave C.
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Well after 3 tries by dropping the oil pump and changing the gear tooth mesh, I got a tooth that gives me exactly 20 BTDC at idle. What a difference! Much better.
Thanks.
Dave C.
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Well with the blue wire tied to the top spade of the "T" connector on the ZX Turbo coil transistor, the tach does not get its proper signal. My remedy was to grab the resistor under/behind the glove box and take a new wire from one connector of the resistor directly to the negative post of the coil. This left the resistor only "half plugged" into the Z harness socket.
I will take a photo shortly and post it. A picture is worth 1000 words.
Now the tachometer works fine.
Here is that photo I promised...
the new black wire goes straight to the negative post on the coil. Just tape up the bullet connector that is exposed in my photo--that is no longer used.
Dave C.
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I haven't gotten to that wire yet. I am going to do that today. I need to find the tach wire at the coil and connect it to the negative post on the coil. I hope that's it. I was a bit unsure about the wire so I left it out for now. Do you know if I need to retain the tach resistor that's under the dash or bypass it? I can try it with the resistor first to be safe.
The bottom leg of the "T" spades gets connected to PIN 5 on the ECU. Don't worry too much about wire color just be sure it goes where it should. I used the blue wire in the Z because it was already there.
Thanks,
Dave C.
. I went across the street (literally) and bought a Bosch one for $35.00. I put it in and the car exhaust smells much less, runs smoother and idles smoother. I had to make a lead extension for it though -no problem.
so they put one off the floor in temporarily. They said it was not a great one and that it was slow reacting. Which oxygen sensor should I get to replace the original 83 Turbo one? I dont want to spend a fortune on one but I want it to run right. 
Smelly Exhaust -TurboZ Hybrid
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
I wonder why they run rich after transplants??? It must be the ground loop quality because nothing else has changed except for the fuel tank, and lines. Hmm, maybe we should run a big steel braid loop and tie all the FI points, motor, battery and chassis to it. It ounds like it may be worth a try - nothing to lose except for cost of braid wire. Over in the Subaru WRX forum, people swear by the difference of running big ground braids everywhere to smooth out the FI system performance.
When I did the swap, I was extremely careful with the grounds. I dremel polished all the contact points on the motor, body, and harness to make them clean and shiny. I then used a bit of silicone grease and stainless steel bolts to be extra sure. My AFM is undisturbed and is still factory sealed. I am not saying that it is fine but it has not been abused. I wish I had a way of quantifying the "richness". Right now I go by smell, idle smoothness, and exhaust pop.
I want to test the head temp sensor and the O2 sensor. What readings should I get at what condition? I cant find an FSM anywhere.
I was getting 0.3-0.5 volts at the O2 sensor last I checked at idle fully warmed up to 180 degrees.