BLKMGK

I don't think so - these are 5 lug hubs up front with 5 lug rotors. 5 lug rotors for the back as well. I've also got the spacers for these rotors in the front etc. Truth be told I've not pulled it all out of the box and laid it out yet as I'm not quite ready to put it on. It cost a bit more than $450 as it included all 4 corners, studs, spindles, rotors, brackets, pads, yadda yadda yadda. He cut me a deal but I don't recall the exact price - could probably dig it up in E-mail though.. Was probably closer to $800 fully done and ready to go and I don't think it was the baseline setup. Got a moustaceh bar for an R200 swap while I was at it Now I just need an LSD!

Umm Mike - it was still smoking a bit as you were leaving. In fact Tory noticed it and remarked about it. I told him you were having some trouble and thought it was the PVC. Did it stop smoking on the way home maybe?

I believe that you're forgetting that those V8s can also be boosted. Just last night I was talking to a friend of mine who's workingon a stroked 302 Ford - 347 cubes. The DFI still isn't dialed in yet but it's already seen over 500HP to the rear wheels. This is a beefed Motorsport block and a HUGE ProCharger. Can you say 20lbs of boost? Oh yeah - and a skosh of race gas Needless to say we've got no idea what it'll run when dialed in and he's yet to matt the throttle on the road. Another friend of mine runs a shop devoted almost exclusively to Mustang work. Mod motored 200 some odd V8 Fords are putting out nearly 500hp pretty easily these days - crap pistons and all. Huge cubes tend to rule because they're easier but you can squeeze more HP from them with forced induction. I'll never forget the first story I read about a turbo 350 SBC. At 3grand on it's first pull it self destructed at about 3grand. It made so much power the cranks simply snapped. I don't recall the number but it was up there - it was in a book I've got about turbo charging. Personally I'm going with a SBC for simplicity. Other motors are pretty neat but I want to drive this thing and enjoy it. If it gets to feeling slow I'll slap a used Vortech on it or get a ProCharger through my friend (he's a dealer). Small motors with forced induction are cool but bigger ones with the same sort of induction are flat out scary. The 351W in my Mustang with a ProCharger is supposed to make nearly 600+hp. This number is froma guy who's built my combo a few times and dynoed them. That's almost too much power and I'm honestly hoping it doesn't run that well or I'll kill myself. But it's a good example of what can be done with a mild blown big(ish) inch motor. I really need to finish that project

I've actually got 300ZX spindles, rotors, and Toyota calipers waiting to go on my Z. Guy out in Washington State sells a complete kit to do this. A bonus is that you get a wider selection of wheels you can run alal Mustang, Supra, 300ZX (NA only due to width). etc. etc. URL is -> http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes.html Mike - this is what I've got for mine

Okay, can you explain about the resonator? Is this simply a baffle before or after the muffler? Is it installed like a tip? I looked closely at Mike Kelly's exhaust tonight and it actually looked better than I remembered. I might go for Dynomax instead of Flo's to quiet it down but that might be a cheaper option than the Honda type stuff. I've got a ways to go before it's a big concern though so plenty of time to think Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

Owen, yes - that's what I'd like! However checking out their WEB site and some of th esites catering to the Honda folks with those mufflers... eeep! Them puppies are some kind of steep! Also, they appear to be nothing but "unbaffled" stainless steel cans! Ouch, that sucker has got to be some kind of loud. They reccomend resonators to help muffle them - duh what's the point then? I'm just going to have to keep my eyes open and see what I can find. Borla and Dynomax both have some decent stainless mufflers designed for V8s but I'd not have the look I want. Heh, I noticed they have a kit that fits my Miata btw Hrm, maybe Borla or Dynomax make something similiar? There's always Supertrap but those sound like you've got an exhaust leak all the time (lol). Thanks for the lead tho', appreciate it. you've captured my idea pretty well except that I want two of 'em. Vroom!

YES! Okay - I want to know what that puppy SOUNDS like when it's cranked up I figure with two I'll have a chance at it being somewhat quiet(er). Can you give me any info on inlet size etc.? Since you're only running one pipe I assume 3inch? Mike, I'll be interested in hearing what yours sounds like. I'd really like to have half a chance of sneaking up on the little Honda and VW punks

Who's rollover valve did you use? Is it very tall? If you'd liek I can bring mine on Saturday for you to try if you think this valve is the culprit. Just seems kind of dangerous not to have one of those (sigh).

Been thinking about this too since I spied the article in Sport Compact car. I'd like to know the cost and if it absorbs water or not. If I were to use it anywhere I'd start with the rockers in hopes of keeping water out and sealing it all up. If they're using it on Lexi and whatnot it ought to be pretty good but I'd really like to have a warm fuzzy on the water thing first. Maybe put a plastic bag in first?

Side exhaust? Hrm, not for me thanks Thrush used to sell a universal kit I think - check with them. As for the Mustangs - looks cool huh? Ever see what a speed bump does to it? Not pretty I'm afraid - I know two guys who have removed it after trashing the side covers. You also have to worry about burns if it's not well covered. As for legality - so long as the exhaust exits behind the driver's door it ought to be fine. Hrm, maybe side turnouts in front of the rear tires? I still yearn for the big coffee cans but I'd actually like it to be somewhat quiet - can't sneak up on them with loud pipes!

Mike, didn't realize that the long water pump was only for the fan - doh! I think I'll go short then - grr! Haven't looked closely at the pan but it looks like most Chevy pans fit (shrug). Really, I'm not knocking the ZZ4 or 5 just pointing out areas where I had concerns... As for th erods and pisonts on the ZZ4 - whoa! Those puppies are PM rods - supposed to be as strong if not stronger than Chevies Pink rods. I'd take those over older stock rods any day of the week. Evals I've read on them say they work great - you just can't rebuild them very easily. However they're supposed to be cheap cheap so that's not a problem. As to pistons - they are NOT cast. They're not forged either - sort of in between with high silicone aluminum. They're more brittle than forged but much stronger than cast. Unless you get bad spark knock while running boost or spray they're supposed to last. They also can be run with pretty tight clearances. Still, I prefer forged pistons and I may see NOS or a blower later so.... The ZZ crate motors aren't bad but in my case since I think I can afford a little more it looks like I won't be using a crate motor....

I'm slowly planning my swap here and am pondering exhaust. I think I know what I'll do for headers but am waiting to see if I'll be using angle plug heads or not first, this part is fairly easy - they WILL be shorties. But what about mufflers? I expect to have a cell mounted much like Mike's tech article. He's using Flowmasters, I've seen others using DynoMax, and all sorts of others. However I've got this insane idea to drive th elittle Honda guys nutz - I want a set of coffee can sized stainless mufflers like they seem to run 99% of the time. I'm thinking th eones used onthe 300ZX TT might work if space isn't too bad. I know these aren't cheap (cough) so I'm wondering before I even try to get them - will they handle the exhaust flow? Some of the TT's are pushing some serious HP.. What about sound? Would these blast my ears out? Last but not least - anyone think this is a really stupid idea? I just have this image of a 240 with a couple of nice stainless mufflers blasting past a damned Honda is all - hard to remove from my mind!

Ouch! I dunno' man. You've already got it, you might as well use it. If the opportunity to get a cheap (lol) T56 arises before the TKO is in the car you might want to consider it. No matter what, if the TKO ends up in the car do yourself a favor and get the best shifter you can. I'd also seriously investigate a synthetic fluid for it but make sure it's the right type for that trans. I think GM makes a good fluid for it. It won't be as smooth at the T56 - ever. It has brass synchros and no clutches like the T5 and I think the T56 but it'll work. Anything you do to smooth it out will be good, try to insulate the mount with rubber and maybe the shifter handle too. My Mustang shifter has no rubber and buzzes nicely *ahem*. Sorry to rain on your parade man and I'm sorry we didn't tell you before the purchase....

I'll be looking forward to seeing it Mike I did do a bit of research on the T5 slave. This one is mentioned in the JTR TPI swap guide. It's NOT got the threaded fitting as I thought. It DOES have a bleeder screw on it but you've got plastic to thread all over again - ick. I noticed that Pegasus has slave cylinders in their catalog, I may measure the T56 to see if one of those might bolt up. If it's working for others perhaps I'm simply being too paranoid and should go with what's worked for others. I'm so damned excited to be moving forward I'm probably trying to re-engineer something that ain't broke...

Whoa Mike!! Take a closer look at the ZZ4 for a moment. Check out the size of the dampner - it's too big if the JTR book is correct. Also look at the water pump - doh it's a SHORT water pump. JTR says use a long one... Lastly, the oil pan - I think it's for a Camaro and it looks like the Vette pan is the better option. So add about $300 to the ZZ4 motor I'd say. Still NOT a bad deal for what you get but the pistons kind of give me willys - I don't trust Hyper pistons but don't let my opinion sway anyone on this part. The ZZ5 or 383 Hot motor on the other hand looks much like the ZZ4. Those heads are a $1K upgrade that you get for aboout $500. Granted you've not got a set of heads to sell afterwards but.. This motor has the same pan, dampner, and water pump as the ZZ4. Depending on who's ad you read it may also NOT come with a distributor! IF this is the motor you're looking at do yourself a favor and confirm the distributor comes with the car. I added up what I figured a dampner, water pump, oil pan, and possibly a distributor would cost in order to help me make my decision. Heh, I'm still not 100% sure

Check out Electromotive. Since that's a DIS motor I'm betting that Electromotive's system would adapt most easily. You might also check with Painless Wiring or some of the other wiring shops as they may have ways of using the stock computer with their harness. Pick up a copy of Street Rodder and look at the ads. Street rod guys are doign all sorts of swapping and I've found enough good information in magazines that cater to them that I've subscribed to Street Rodder - neat stuff.

Air gap is the best insulator. If you can fit a insulation pad between the cell and the muffler without allowing it to touch the muffler that would help. Whatever you do try to keep as much air gap as possible though...

Would love to see those pics! My only concern here is that the Datsun slave doesn't seem too reliable. My Father had a 280 for years and claimed to have gone through several slaves. My car blew a slave on it's maiden trip home and the slave from my parts car was also pretty poor. A new slave is only $30 but that's not much good if you're on the side of the road. Is the stock Z clutch as "heavy" as the T56 clutch? Just wondering what added stress it might have to deal with.

Okay, I'm going to be running a T56, like many others here. I've read the JTR instructions for th eslave cylinder and am a little uncomfortable about threading into plastic and expecting it to take hydraulic pressure (ahem). Having been stranded with a dead slave cylinder in the car with the stock drivetrain I'd like to avoid that in the future with the V8. Somewhere here I thought I'd seen where someone had compared the T5 slave with the T56 and ofund them to be the same physical size - bore, stroke, mounting. Is this so? My understanding was that the T5 slave differed in one important way - it's got a threaded fitting! Is this correct? Has anyone tried it? If no one is sure but can maybe tell me a target year to look at I'll snag a T5 slave to check out and document. Given a choice I'd really prefer to use a metal threaded connection. I've already got the MasterSlave from the F-body that donated it's trans to me Thanks!

Pro 5.0 shifters ARE much better - the stock shifter, even the "short" stock shifter are junk. Still, with a Pro 5.0 my Tremec is so notchy I cannot speedshift 3rd gear without hitting 5th. given a choice I'd go with a T56 and in fact am doing just that. If I like it well enough I may even break down and have a T56 swapped into my Mustang. I hate the Tremec and have even had mine rebuilt with little to no improvement.

I'm with MIKE!!!! Folks, I'm a BIG 'Stang guy. The V8 Z is a lifelong dream - the Mustang is a dream I made happen. Well, actually it's still happening as I've not finished it's last rebirth (blown 351W). However, I have had a Tremec 5speed! I put it into my car after my twin turbo 5.0 blew the T5 apart. It lasted a good long time but I didn't beat on it either, then one day I did and boom! What Mike said about the driveability is true. It's the notchiest trans I've EVER driven. It's also noisy. Read up on it, it's not much different than an M22 with a 5th gear if what I've read is accurate. On top of that mine was rebuilt by a pro and is STILL notchy. After living years with the T5 and nearly a year of daily driving with the Tremec I still cannot reliably speed shift 3rd gear - I hit 5th. Before it was rebuilt I would actually get stuck between the 3/5 gate and it got real ugly. The reaosn I'M going with a T56 is because of the .5 overdrive. The 3.90 or 3.70 rear I'll likely wind up with plus the really short tires makes for some decent RPM on the road and the .5 overdrive means I get some chance at MPG if I take a trip. The T56 is a superior trans and can be gotten for less than the $2K figure. Likewise I've got no doubt that the tremec can be found for around a grand if not less. P.S. I've seen three blown Tremecs including some with sheared input shafts. They aren't indestructable and if you get one used it'll be because someone is probably switching to an auto after getting sick of it's notchy shift or it's breakage. It's also noticably heavier than a T5, the T56 being heavier still. Screw the weight...

$4500 is supposed to get me about 460hp. Thsi would be with an Eagle stroker crank (383), Eagle rods, Edelbrock aluminum heads, water pump, Edelbrock intake (dual plane - I may go single), dampner, etc. etc. Not positive that includes a distributor. Oh yeah, J&E forged pistons too. Pretty much I was told they could build any HP level I desired - for a price. 4-6weeks shipping time. hrm! As for the LS-1. I considered that, I also considered the LT1 swap. However, to do either of those swaps requires fabrication and going where few have gone before. The LS-1 will probably need different headers, possibly custom, requires a particular T56 made just for the LS-1, and who knows what other issues. I'd also not be thrilled using the stock harness and it's ODBII crappola'. A good motor? Heck yes! An easy swap? Probably harder than I want to tackle at this time. Same goes for the LT1 only less so - I think the LT1 would be easier and I've at least seen one of these documented. In the end you'll have a really really cool car though and I sincerely hope that you document each step of the way so that others can duplicate your efforts. For that matter when I swap in whatever motor I get I'll try to document areas that maybe aren't as clear as they could be. Mike doesn't live too far from me so I'm hoping he might be interested in helping with that (grin). Dinner's on me Mike!

I'm in the same boat.... I've got a quote from an engine builder of about $4500 for a fairly nasty motor. Looking at the "ZZ5" crate and figuring I'll have to swap the dampner, water pump, and possibly add a distributor that $4500 is looking pretty plausible. Tomorrow they'll tell me what that same motor might cost with less HP and in a 350cube displacement... How much power exactly do you want to make?

Terrific news!! Thanks guys, I was worried I'd have to stick with the 3 3/8ths guages which have a really UGLY thick bezel. I'm also glad to hear that the Painless wiring harness made it easier as I was looking at that myself. Mike, did you ever swap out that VDO speedo? How's it working out? I'm looking at the Phantom Speedo and tach. I may not go with the tach meant to go in the dash since the features of the others are more attractive. I will still mount it in the dash tho' - I think there's room behind it. Thanks again guys! Now, about that carbon fiber

Okay, I've not seen a good place to post this so... Swapping in the V8 and T56 I'm going to swap out the stock guages. I figure Autometer 2 5/8ths guages in the right side pods ought to fit but what size for the speedo and tach? I'd like the 5inch size - will it fit? If I want to mount something other than the in-dash tach will the regular tach fit okay? Would it be hard to mount? At this point I've not even figured out how to pull the stock guages out - is it difficult? Lastly, I spotted a post here somewhere talking about Carbon Fiber. I'd LOVE to get into this, has anyone checked it out further? Aircraft Spruce and Specialty probably has the materials needed. If you've not got their catalog GET IT! It's free and full of good stuff. A WEB search ought to find their site FWIW. Imagine a dash cover in Carbon fiber or a door panel done this way....