BLKMGK

DOH!!!! A guy less than 2 hours from me just sold a G-Nose for $100! In good shape too apparently. Someone on the other side of the US bought it and he's now got to box that sucker up and ship it to him (sob). I've told him that if it falls through I'm ready and willing to take it off his hands Has some other good parts too - seems he's about to build an SCCA racer from a car he dragged up from New Orleans. He should've used my '72 shell instead but I never advertised it anywhere (smack again!). ah well, he's got some doors, I'm buying his NEW steel hood, and maybe a good bit of the interior for spare parts too The G-nose is what I really wanted, we'll see what happens. I've got a glass hood on the way already, I really am not sure I want to do a ton of bodywork on this car - I'd like to actually DRIVE it with a V8 someday (smile).

I've not got the URL handy but a search of this forum should find the gear ratio chart or the URL for the various ratios offered. The short answer is that yes, there were ratios of 3.90 offered. If you're going to stick with the R180 a quick peek in our For Sale area may even reveal a 4.xx rear for sale by another member hrm, it migh tbe a link to a guy on Zcar.com actually - I seem to recall finding an LSD equipped 4 series gear over there and crossposting it. FWIW I've got an R180 in my car currently with a 3.90 ratio - no LSD. The only common LSD diffs are in 87.5-89 300ZXs and are R200s with a 3.7 ratio. One of those is for sale on Zcar.com as well for $700 (!). Hard to find and NOT cheap. I've also got a 5 speed but I'm not sure that it's a T5 from a ZX. The swap should be pretty straightforward so far as bolting it up but the driveshaft MIGHT have to be swapped. Can anyone else comment? Oh yeah - my car also has a 2.8 motor in it and is a 72. Pretty much a direct bolt-in with no muss I believe. If you're in VA give me a shout as I've got a 2.8 with the older carbs and Electramotive dual header on the shop floor. My current motor will be coming out when the V8 arrives - 2.8L, header, and triple Webbers (that run rich right now but I don't care). Heh, sure you wouldn't rather have 6 gears and a V8? [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited August 06, 2000).]

Intuition would seem to say that the headlights "sugar scoop" look would make for some pretty bad airflow. these days I can't imagine a manufacturer building a car that might block air like that! However it's pretty obvious that when it comes to aerodynamics intuition doesn't count for much. I can tell you my Miata gets a bit scary at say 95mph - top up or down. I'll have to check it out with the hardtop on come Fall I guess. John (smack! I meant Micahel - sorry about that!) I found the water tunnel data fascinating! Do you still have access to it? I'd be interested in hearing about any further testing. Would say a scale model form the hobby shop be worth testing? Would love to hear what a G-nose does for the airflow. I actually don't find them ugly but finding one at all nowadays would be pretty tricky I wonder if any of the kit and spoiler manufacturers bother to tunnel test. I thought Kamei did but some of their stuff was pretty butt ugly too [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited August 06, 2000).]

I too would like a metal bodied slave - the JTR method of tapping the resin makes me nervous. It sounded for awhile as if the T5 slave might be different or at least accept a standard hose fitting but I believe this has since been disproven. At least one person is using a stock Datsun slave but having had one of those die on me already I think I'd be nervous about that (sigh). My father owned a Z for years - he had "several" slaves leave him stranded. (ahem) So, at this point I'm resigned to using the JTR method of tapping the resin body. several others here have done this and appear to be having NO problems. This being the case I suppose I'm just being silly worrying about it but I'd still be interested if you or anyone else has ideas for a metal slave! What other RWD cars used the T56T5 with a hydraulic clutch? Viper, Vette (?), Camaro, anything else a possible donar?

If you're going to consider the T5 consider the T56 too! Heavier but also much heavier duty. You've also got a nice 6th gear for MPG at higher speeds. You might find that with a moderate rear ratio the 6th is actually too high though so beware of that. Older T56s from 93 don't have as deep an overdrive either. John - would the 200R4 be worth looking at for an auto? Does it have WOT in 4th? What are the differences from a strength and size point of view? Does it have the TV issues too? The GNs used these, yes? How well might they work with the V8s?

I seem to recall that in the back the longer spring moves the lower perch DOWN and that this is what gives you more room - yes? I've been pondering coilovers myself actually. I'll be moving to a 5lug setup and had hoped to run something like a Mustang sized wheel. Some of these are 17X8 and I'm not sure that I can fit an 8inch wheel with the stock coils - can I? I'm also considering sticking with a 16inch diameter wheel and not going over say 225 - can you go much wider than that with stock wheel wells? I figure I'll swap over to the 5lug and move my 17X7 wheels off the Mustang onto the Z to see what sorts of "issues" I run into This is all aways down the road as I want it running before I do the 5lug swap so I'm simply trying to look ahead some. So far I've got no idea what wheels I'll run and hope to find something like the neat wheels the Honda guys run I did have someone send me his sizes and pics of his car with late model RX7 wheels. Not too shabby actually except they were 16s and have the Mazda logo on them. At least maybe that'll help come purchase time... P.S. Where are folks sourcing their coil overs? Ground Control, a guy in Washington State, and where else? $400 seems to be about the going rate with some being much higher with camber adjustments etc. Have yet to see variable rate springs in a coilover for the Z. [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited August 05, 2000).]

As I recall you're keeping the Datsun 6 right? If so I'd think usingmodifying the stock manifold would be the best way to go. I've not ever seen one myself but I'd think that it could probably be improved. If it's cast port it and then extrude it. If it's not cast then maybe cleaning up welds would be in order. You get the idea - do what was too much trouble for the factory. Heh, some OEMs are starting to use Extrude hone tho' However, if this is a non-stock type swap and manifolds aren't available... Well, as a mere mortal I wouldn't do it myself - I'd pay someone. However you say you've got the welding skills and have used the parts before so I guess that puts you above average human How much is it likely to cost you if you try and fail? Even if it doesn't work out you'll still learn something right? So long as it's not likely to trash the car or completely empty your wallet I'd say go for it. Heh, and tell us all about it too Seriously, if there's a stock manifold how much effeciency do you think you'll pick up? How bad is the stock manifold? I know many turbo cars wind up ditching their stock manifolds since the factory usually does such a crappy job, I just didn't think the Z was all that bad and no one seems to have made an aftermarket one for the older cars that I know of...

Pete's right. Nice trans but it's designed specificly for the LS1 and I believe it's got a non-swappable integrated bellhousing on it. Input shaft may also be a different length. Some of the Chevy rags have had buildups using the T56 recently, if you get a chance try to pick up some of the issues of Hot Rod, Car Craft, or maybe Super Chevy and look for those articles....

Hrm, I've been thinking about this all day - sad huh? I still think a 350 would make a better platform but those aluminum heads probably flow better than the older camel heads. You'd not be giving up that many cubes and the roller valvetrain would be nice. EFI is great in my opinion so if you can swap it in what the heck - go for it. I'm not even sure I'd do much to the shortblock....

There's a reason for that! Note that it's missing a "CARB and alternator". This is one of the older motors without fuel injection it seems. Ick! Appreciate the heads up though, you can find some real gems on E-bay.

IMO - stick with what you've got. The TBI is a glorified electronic carb - wet flow intake and all. I'd bet that you're making as much or more power with the current setup as you would with the 305. I don't think the added driveability that you MIGHT get from the TBI would be nearly worth the hassle of swapping one in. Maybe if this were a TPI 350 we were talking about I'd have a different opinion but frankly I've never thought much of the TBI motors. My 88 LX used to wax them at will stock so I can't imagine that the TBI is making much power. The TPI cars were a much better race at least Check out Street and Performance. I think they sell harnesses and modified TBI setups. Perhaps they'd have some information to help you make the decision. I'd also suggest checking out the HP rating of the donor vehicle. Does the 305 have aluminum heads? You could improve on those double hump heads pretty easily with say the Vortec heads GM has now. $600 a pair complete I think or not much more.... P.S. WELL DUH! We are talking TPI! What was the HP rating of the car it came out of? Aluminum heads? This is a MUCH closer call and a bit harder to install too BTW. High pressure fuel and a return line to the back for that bad boy. [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited August 03, 2000).]

Just a note on the MSA wheels. They show Momo and others in their catalog but don't specify a brand - for a reason. The ship Grant wheels instead! Have seen several complaints over on ZCar about this so buyer beware. I've got two Momo wheels, both slightly different, and they really feel nice. Oh yeah - horns work on both cars

Hey! This sounds interesting to me too! I've got a block in good shape but I hate the darned glass fuses. I wonder if it would be possible to get a second block out of a parts car and just use the connectors off of it to make the new one? Hrm! Need more info - frankly doing the wiring is a little scary for me. I know electronics and am no stranger to a soldering iron but geez I'd not want to screw this up!

Try this - no period! http://www.ramairbox.com/

Lemme' know if you can't find a home for the LSD :-)Congrats on finding one so cheap!

Go with a known entity - VR Engineering. $300 +shipping. For a glass hood that's not too bad IMO... How much do these guys want and why don't they accept Credit Cards? I use a CC to cover my ass in case someone doesn't ship - the CC companies are VERY good at fixing this...

If MPG is a worry than a hopped up 2.3 Ford is going to get at least as bad a gas mileage as a V8. It takes so much air and so much fuel to make so much HP - the Ford isn't THAT much more effecient. It also idles a litle rough and has crappy torque. How much does the ZX weigh sans engine? If you can't deal with a V8 I'd seriously consider a 300ZX turbo motor instead - at least you know it all fits and the 87-89 motors are apparently fairly cheap. I'm a Ford guy myself but if I was going to do a 2.3 turbo swap into anything it would be a Pinto not a Z....

My opinion - you'd be happiest with the overdrive transmission. Zs have short tires and high rear ratios - you'd go crazy on the highway without an overdrive. Not sure on the computer stuff - is it a TPI type intake or TBI? You can either use the stock computer harness or an aftermarket harness, lot's of them out there. Is it MAF or MAP sensored? The MAP seems to be preffered for some reason. JTR does sell a book on TPI swapping that might be worth reading even if it doesn't apply to your specific donar vehicle... In the end both motors would make power. You might even be able to carb the Caprice motor and skip the computer stuff.

I BELIEVE the 200R is worth looking into. To be honest I'm not real big on auto transmissions and am actually a Ford guy at heart The 200R is what was used inthe Buick GNs if memory serves. Built "right" it ought to handle anything we throw at it in such a light car. I know guys with GNs who really abused theirs with no problem. As for th eauto being "easier". I'm not sure that's true. I know the ZX is "different" so I can't speak very well to how it fits but the stick trans in both the IRCO type Camaros and in the later Camaros was hydraulic. Since the Z is also hydraulic there's not big issues with cables for the clutch. My biggest worry though would be where the shifter pokes up in the tunnel. IF it's too far forward then you'd not be able to get it fit in correctly. I personally prefer the stick and will be using a T56 6 speed in my conversion. Cost - on the auto I just don't know. On the stick - my T56 was around $1700. A T5 would be cheaper I'm sure. Good luck, and keep us posted!

Can you give details on your setup or possibly write a tech article? I've gone with Miuke's setup but I'm sure others are still pondering options. The more brake the better so far as I'm concerned

Are all the Maximas FWD? I thought some of the very first ones might have been RWD - no? I just fuzzily remember guys hopping them up and they were RWD. I may be completely wrong tho' The 240SX looks like it would be a fun car to twiddle with but it's too new and there would be emissions concerns around here if you did a swap..

Just curious - any reason you don't want to run a stick trans? What about a 200R4? I think it might even be lighter then the 700 but I'm not positive. One of the Chevy rags recently had a buildup on one of these and I think it was lighter and possibly smaller. If interested I can try to track it down. Certainly don't buy one new. If you get one from a yard have it rebuilt and beefed up. Some of the guys here have 700s for sale if you hunt through some of the forum messages. I think there was at least 2 for sale not long ago. The ZZ4 crate or it's bigger brother the 385 ZZ4 with fast burn heads would be awesome if your budget can handle it. $3700 intake to pan with flexplate and ignition. They've got some cheaper ones as well but try to get aluminum heads if you can and NOT cast pistons.

Yes, do please write up as much tech on this as you can. Lot's of people are interested in what it takes to drop in an EFI 302 as these motors are pretty common. Wiring and motor mounts seem to be the big questions. Would love to know if a 351W would fit

Okay, I think I get it now! Geez that was messing with my head! I guess I'll try it sans spacers and see how it goes. Vibration is my biggest worry to be honest. I've got time but not getting my radiator yet is annoying me - I may cancel and go with the GM rad instead.

Man, I'm confused! JTR says that these "lower" the engine relative to the body of the car. This provides clearance at the trans tunnel and latch - so far so good. However it seems to me this is accomplished by mounting the body on "blocks" to raise it - not actually lower the engine. No? These mount ABOVE the crossmember - yes? Between frame and crossmember? What does the body on the car have to do with ground clearance if the motor is mounted to the crossmember and the suspension mounted to that? Does this have something to do with the suspension maybe? Raise the body move suspension mount points? I figured only the bar that angles back attached to the body would be effected - no? If I unbolted the crossmember and lifted the body from the car - the engine's height from the grouond wouldn't change would it? Yeah, I'm truly puzzled here. Not installing the spacers is no biggie for me to be honest - I think my balancer will clear. Hood latch I'm not sure of but I may go with a glass hood and pins anyway - I'm not sure yet. One thing JTR stated that puzzles me - installing these spacers provides room between the balancer and the crossmember. That would seem to say that the motor moves up which is what you've said. How exactly does that happen? Just looked at the engineless car inthe garage - really puzzled now how do you add clearance for the balancer and not lower clearance for the tunnel and latch? (sigh). [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited July 20, 2000).]