BLKMGK

I believe you're fine. I did the same with mine - no sweat.

Tim, that is one VERY impressive engine bay! Very nice job!

Okay, I got a message back from Rewarder "The headers are 5" wide and 9" long" this is for the BH1020 headers. I believe I will remove one of my FlowTech's on Sunday and measure it - time allowing. If it looks close I'll talk to the Rewarder folks about theirs on the phone since E-mail doesn't seem to be a real good way to get details from them Ross, what were your measurements?

sweet, I MAY have ZXT CVs as early as Sunday. May also have a source for th estubs and companion flanges. Not sure when it'll get installed mind you and I'll want to do bearings while I'm at it but this is a BIG start towards getting CVs done. Ross, I'm also sending someone your way who's interested in those adapters - any ETA yet? Lastly, if we pull these CVs Sunday I might be able to take measurements of the entire ZXT setup - would that be helpful? Pics? This friend may also have some brakes and stuff for sale - is there much interest? Thanks!

Pete, our Impalla starter DOES use the neutral start switch. However the RX7 is a stick shift. I THINK it has some way knowing when it's in gear but I'm not comfortable putting a remote start on it. Heh, I have no neutral start on the Z but perhaps forcing a foot on the brake would be a good idea?

Mine broke on the diff side as well. I tried to put the zerk in crush but it seems to me that no matter where it's put it'll be getting stretched in some manner (sigh). Will be checking Pep Boys tonight for solid Us. Pics of those and my broken one when I get a chance. Hrm, my Spicer had maybe 15miles on it tops. Almost as much time on a rollback as it had the road (ahem).

As some of you know - the Sanderson CC134s didn't work out on my JTR swap. The flange smacks right into the steering shaft AND the aluminum block on the driver's side. These are seriously nice headers but the darned things are too short! I measured for them and it all looked good - drat! So, I called them up today hoping I'd find an enthusiast on staff who could help me out and might be eager to add an application to their catalog. Hot rod exhaust must mean hot rodders on staff right? Well, I got a woman who put me on hold as soon as I began explaining things, another woman who seemed more on the ball, and finally a guy who said that if I enclosed a check for $200 along with the headers that he could fix me up. For some reason I'm not feeling very warm and fuzzy here. They've got a 15% restock fee ($435 headers) and I'll lose my $35 shipping (2day) if I simply return them. I'm wondering if that might be best - has anyone else had much in the way of dealings with them? They seemed thrown off by the idea that I had an app that wasn't "standard" - shouldn't that be the norm with a header company? Wonder what will happen when they realize these are COATED headers too. Charge me even more? They seemed great when I called for the initial order and VERY helpful... Meanwhile I see that Rewarder has a set of 1 3/4 headers that APPEAR to be coated for less mony that MIGHT be long enough. I've now E-mailed them asking for measurements and hope that the silly things drop down more than 8 inches - 10 or 11 would be best. Seems silly to offer headers and NOT offer measurements for "universal" apps like this -duh!(sigh) I've also asked S&S for a catalog. From what I see online they've got plenty of headers but little in the way of pics or measurements. Argh! I know we've beat this subject to death but kripes you'd think that it would be easier to find a header that fits with all of us looking. Heck, I'd be happy with the Flowtechs now except that my head has a 1/4 inch step all around the port where the pipe is too small! Guess it kind of bugs me that I'm going to wind up doing the R&D for these guys AND pay for that privilage. $600+ for headers not counting exhaust shop bills just seems a bit crazy to me - yes?

Found Neapco "Brute Force" units - is that what everyone is recomending? I've got a set of adapters but don't want to pull the car down till Winter since it'll require welding and I'll probably switch stub shafts at the same time. I think this time a machine shop will be drilling the flanges for me

I think I'm getting confused still. Will read your WEB site to see if that helps since it's using the design I've got. Do the stub axles get replaced? The welding is done to the stub, yes? Oy, I'll read up and learn then ask better questions. Bear with me - I hadn't expected to have to worry about this yet... Okay - I see now. Companion flange and stub is seperate. I can weld the companion fine and the stub is seperate. Break the stub, replace it, etc. Sounds like I can use the 240 piece except for the spline diff if I have to upgrade to the 280 later. Ross, you still got any stubscompanions left for the 280s? [ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Heh, and I thought I was bad I made my setback plates set FORWARD when I did it the first time.

Were the digital MSD boxes dying? Th eold 6ALs and whatnot have gone on me and at one time I had a colleciton of them gathering dust here. The shop I work with had them coming in dead at an amazing rate there for awhile. The digital boxes on the other hand look pretty fine. Price on the Mallory is pretty good although the one I'm looking at might not have been multistrike. No one running the Crane unit?

We've got a remote start on the Impalla. If it's not in park it won't start but it does bypass the brake safety. I considered one for the RX7 too since with the turbo timer I NEVER leave it in gear (feels really weird too!). However when I spoke to the shop they told me that while they've done several manual cars with remote starts they advised against it. Seems that every single one of the ones they've done has been started in gear at some point! I skipped it on the RX7

Couple of things.... I know I could get custom headers done. I've even got a friend who builds race cars from piles of tubing who does this for others and who installed my cagefuel cell. However it would be time consuming for him and while I'd get a good price it wouldn't be fair to him IMO. It would take his time away from other projects and might take a good bit of time away from me driving the beast I'm not looking for long tube headers here, I don't want the install hassle nor am I looking to eek the last HP out of this thing. I know about SandS - they've got a good rep and has been mentioned here a bunch. Several folks have their long tubes and they apparently fit well - this is great that they make a header for that works. However I don't want long tubes, not this time. If I wanted long tubes I'd have bought theirs right off the bat - no question! Heck, if I'd known shoprties were going to give htis grief I might have installed theirs with the engine. Their cost is certainly "right" IMO. Rewarder - the reason I didn't go with them in the first place - and they'd been mentioned I know - was that they didn't list measurements on their page. When I looked at the Sanderson page they DID have measurements and when I took a ruler to it they looked like a good fit! The header's flange bit me in the rear though. I also wasn't sure that Rewarder sold their headers at the listed prices WITH coating. Sure, that's the way they're pictured but their prices are pretty cheap for coated headers. So given a choice between what looked like a good fit up and away from the issues I was having with my plugs and a somewhat unknown I chose Sanderson. I know Rewarder had been mentioned but I thought that Ross was going long tube and didn't think anyone had tried their shorties yet either. I expected that I'd encounter folks at Sanderson much like what it sounds like Ross found at Rewarder. I guess that maybe we've all gained a little knowledge from this? I'm going to wait and not do ANYTHING until I get measurements from Rewarder. IF they sound close I'll call them up, chat, and then consider returning the Sandersons without having mods done. At that point I'll really get a feel for Sanderson - they were VERY good about shipping me their headers and we'll see how gracious they are about returns. I already face a 15% restocking fee plus $35 in shipping plus money sending them back. Not a cheap lesson! At that point I'll have a real feel for their attitudes and service (sigh) until then I'll withold my final judgement. I guess I just don't think another $200 on top of $400+ is terribly reasonable... Heh, at least no one else will make this same mistake!

Okay, I'm Ross says use ZX with Scottie's adapter. No binding and it's the right length. Jeronimo says I can use ZXT and it's a bolt on except for the seal. Either way I end up having to pull the stubs, yes? Advantage to the ZXT is that it "bolts on" but I must fab a seal. Seems to me that since I've got the Scottie wunder adapter and friends who weld that I ought to use the ZX parts. Or am I back to being Welding isn't a big issue here and I've already got the adapters - I actually planned for this contingency - scary huh? Heck I even had spare axles but I really didn't think I'd need them this quick! I'm wondering if the Spicer was defective or damaged during the install? No matter, WOT blasts are on hold until solid Us are back there at the very least. Thanks for the advice guys, keep it coming! i figure I won't be the only one facing this bridge... Lone, you went CV already?

Okay Scottie - how did a mocked up turbo system end up so rusty? I cannot help but wonder if the boat world would offer any solutions to this question of manifolds - maybe airplanes? Th eidea of flipping over shorty headers ins't a new one, I think I've mentioned it before and I know the page with the Ford guys doing that has been posted. Guy that spoke to me about doing this thought the front driver's side area would be good. Thinking about that I believe the steering would be in the way as well as oiling and that the passenger side is a better option. Something very close to the GN setup would probably be ideal if there's room for a DP. Scottie, how much room does your DP have? I don't quite recall... (sigh) Wish I'd had th ehigher rez camera when I was last down there. My next trip is coming up but it seems I'll be in upstate Florida this time... I can snap some pics of the twin turbo Ford stuff i've got if anyone thinks it might be interesting. Internal wastegates and it bolts up to a stock H-pipe on the Mustang Hrm, looked a little more closely at that site and... http://www.y-t-g.com/turbomonte.html Like that intake? That's what I'm shooting for - not sure about the turbo though! Couldn't resist this last one! [ September 10, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Pete - I want 280Z not ZX stubs, yes? ZXT won't work either will they? Blue - did you try the solid body U's? You guys are scaring me now

LOL, called a friend at NAPA and had him hunting all over. All of the joints he's got are hollow and cost as much as $40+ - the same Spicers I just snapped I think. So decided to do some more WEB searching - weirdly enough Pep Boys pops up in my searches. I call the local store and damned if it's not a part they normally stock. $13 each! Unfortunatly they're out of stock right now but might have them on a truck tomorrow. Talk about weird - it's gotten to where I usuall expect places like Pep Boys to be useless but this time it's a perfect match. Guess I'll see if they're stronger or not swapping them out won't take long nce I've got them in a set of shafts - luckily I have a spare set poff of E-Bay. BTW - these joints are apparently used in Toyota 4wd trucks. As a result I hope that there are some strong ones out there. Anyone ever gotten a peak at Toyota factory units? CVs ARE in the plan and I've got a friend who's been given (!) a couple of ZXTs. He used to restore Zs so I guess everyone thinks of him when they find one. Anyway, he ought to be able to get me a set of shafts and I'll probably buy stubs new. I'm just not quite ready to take it off the road aain if I can help it. I've got Scottie's adapters on the shelf though so I'll just have to get the parts and get the welding done is all. Might have the shafts reworked like Pete did and maybe have the stubs worked too. Maybe it was just a bad joint but I'm going to be much more comfortable with solid units in there. I really haven't been hammering it too badly so this was a real surprise. Going to a Z meeting locally here on Wednesday so perhaps others there will have some experience to share with regards to what holds up. Friend at NAPA told me he and his Grandfather used to just machine solid crosses for th eJag U-joints they worked with and suggested I consider that. Sounds expensive to me though

Anyone got part #s and sources for the better U's mentioned above? Seems my thoughts on the HD Spicers I bought turned out to be true. Paid way more than $15 each for them too

Has anyone looked closely at the Crane units? Heh, until I no longer have to worry about the rear I think I'll be laying off the NOS install idea. The MSD unit isn't exactly cheap but I guess if it's good there's no getting around it.

Well, I guess I'm making some power! Blew out a Spicer "heavy duty" U-joint. This was NOT the solid unit that most like but was the heavy duty one sold by MSA. No holeshots ever on this sucker - blew as I shifted into second after a first gear roll-on. Sounded like I ground a pound of beef when it went and a cap dinged off the cell on the way out the back - no damage. P.S. Could NOT drive off with just one shaft despite the LSD. I'm pretty sure it's clutches got smoked when the shaft went and the engine free revved. Hrm, should've checked the tattle tale before killing the motor Where can I get the SOLID body Spicers? Has anyone got a part number? I figured this is what I'd get from MSA but... AAA said no rollbacks available and after the cop helped me push it into a nearby parking lot I took the woman's car and got my spare halfshaft 45mins to change it with a jack and hand wrenches - I hope I don't have to do this very often! I will be working on getting a set of CVs but until then I'd like a set of GOOD U's to tide me over. Heh, the woman is getting a bit wary of taking any rides in the Z, I can't imagine why (lol). Will put up some pics of the trashed joint later... [ September 09, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Whew, those headers take some pondering to figure out! I think a GN style setup would be the way to go in a Z. A pair of turbos would be a PITA with so little room to the strut towers. Going forward is the way to go. Do you think the crossover should be up front or underneathin back? Would a GN turbo flow enough for a V8? Sure would be an interesting project....

So far so good - the fitting is holding. I adjusted the rod out a bit too far though. Clutch releases pretty high and at full travel something in the bellhousing bitches at me (ahem). That will be today's project! Pedal is a little heavy but I think that's mostly my being used to the RX7 and having a weaker leg now that I'm not driving the Mustang with the 10 ton clutch

Foam IS supposed to stop slosh but I still see some swing on the gauge. (shrug) No starvation that I've noticed yet.

The only reason I can think of for two turbos is faster spoolup or total airflow (huge). Some of the big name Mustang racers only run one turbo - they can spool at the line (slowly) but once spooled they kick butt. I've mentioned before that a friend who's building a turbo (V8) Mustang is pushing me to a turbo. IF I do this I'll do a single. The V8 doesn't need the low end torque of a fast spool IMO and the plumbing might be a nightmare. For that matter two turbos might be more costly than a single larger one? I think you'd be happy with either one really

Am considering getting an add-on ignition box. Looking for something digital rather than analog w/discrete components. In the past I've shied away from Crane but their HI-6 has what looks like good features. I've used the Accell 300+ but it lacks a feature or two and one just blew with less than 500 miles over at my friend's shop (sigh). Price is a consideration and I'd like to be able to use it with EFI later on. I'm looking at the Crane, MSD digital, Accell, and Mallory. I might consider Holley but not Jacobs I don't think. Can anyone share experiences on the various boxes? I think I'd like a rev limit at least and possibly a start retard unless I can get my initial dialed back (ahem). I may be running NOS in the future and it will likely be wet flow. I'll probably use a window switch for that to keep the guts inside. I don't think I need two rev limiters as I don't do many burnouts etc.. Despite my misgivings on Crane I'll keep an open mind if someone has found them to be superior. I'm mostly hoping that a stronger spark will clean up things a bit and let me dial back my timing. Will be trying to lean out the idle some and calm it down. Thanks! P.S. I figure most all of us are interested in this anyway and are bound to have opinions