BLKMGK

I can't recall exactly how it was supposed to be mounted. I think it has ears on it somewhere "stock" but I don't quite recall. However long after it leaked it did start "oil canning". The top has bulged up and has to be pushed down like an oil can to close the filler. Serious PITA that I think happened during a brief time while it was sealed with a small amount of gas in it. NEVER do that Note that it wasn't doing this when it started leaking but long after. IMO if I had to do it again I'd use the cell Mikelly has with the steel safe -much safer IMO and it holds more (grr). Next time!

For those of you looking at overdrive transmissions I found a site that claims to make the TV cable setup "easy". www.tvmadeasy.com in the same ad as www.700r4.com Hope that helps!

Pete, there are plenty of adjustable rockers out there for Fords. Nice not to have to mess with the clearances once they're set right with shims though

Nothing at all wrong with using the Nissan motor. It might not beat an LS1 or LT1 equipped Z but really, who cares? It'll certainly give a Camaro driver one heck of a surprise and probably a 'Vette too! It's not all about being the fastest as there will always be someone faster. I think this swap will be really neat and I hope it goes well and that you can document it for others who might like to try it.

Cell was mounted by a professional chassis shop. No stress on th ecell, it's suspended by "ears" that are mounted to pieces of angle iron welded to what looks like a frame member above the rear and to a back bulkhead that was stock in the car. I can undo 4 bolts, remove the steel cover, and lift the cell out. Short of running straps under the silly thing I'm not sure how else it could've been mounted. Note that the leaks both occured on th ebotton, that there were no marks on th ecell, and that these leaks were in the middle of the tank nowhere near a weld. Was like the gas was eating through the cell or something... P.S. Cerebrus, look for a software package named PhotImpact. It allows you to easily shrink down pics. Mine go from over a meg to 20K or so - those are the pics on my WEB site. Niiiice package that Pete told me about [ September 08, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Heh, if anyone still wants the Precisions kit (I've got one and it's okay but..) then buy it straight from PRecision NOT VB. I bought i "on sale" from VB and when it arrived with "Precision" all over the bag I hunted down their WEB site. Yup, their REGULAR price was LESS than VB's "sale". I was pretty steamed to say the least. As for doors - mine seem to be fine. (shrug) I've heard others say that you need to get the doors shut and then let the car sit awhile to compress them - but mine were fine. Rear hatch is another story, I had to section mine in about three places to get it to fit correctly in he corners. I've not put on most of the rubber actually - it was bought for another car and this one was in better shape but I can certainly say that what I HAVE put on has given mixed results.

Owen, get the properties and past the URL into your browser directly. A PITA but it's working for me and once it's in my cache they show up finr Stupid quesiton - front wheel drive? I looks like a real short motor and with those runners I ASSume it's front wheel drive - yes? Intake looks nice, hard to tell how big the motor really is though. I gues if we see one under th ehood of a Z we'll know huh?

KraZ - those are some very nice looking wheels you've discovered. Have you tried using somehting like Photoshop to put them on a picture of a Z to get the idea as to how they might look? I did this on a car that looked a great deal like mine until I was satisfied and it made me feel much better about ordering. Will be interested to see pics if you go for 'em as it ought to look REALLY nice. Have you decided on backspacing etc.? Not sure if our previous discussions on backspacing for 17s will apply or not but it ought to be a god starting point. Will you be running coil overs?

I'm pretty sure we also had a FD3 guy post here about his RX7. If no one can find it head over to RX7forums.com and do a search. Grannies or maybe V8 ought to find it - I hope. they got hacked awhile ago and some things got lost so hopefully that wasn't one of them (sigh).

Conrad worked for them?! ROTFL, if that's who I think it is I'm dying. Shoot me a note offline, we'll talk. He had a big block in a Mustang? Fords are their specialty, yeah I know the shop now. I'm friends with Chris over at Excessive - Fords everywhere I almost wish I'd done a Ford swap but I'd have had to get help with fabricating mounts and really wanted to do as much myself as I could. Sometimes the 351W in my Mustang looks liek it needs a new home (lol). I'd really like to know more about why they don't like the new WINTECH software. I realize the DOS stuff has been around but the WINTECH has more features - at least I thought it did. I thought I'd heard that moving maps from the DOS software to the WIN stuff caused "issues" but it's been awhile. I'll reiterate thouogh - a place to put MAPs would be pretty nice if we've got enough folks running programmable ECUs willing to contribute. I'd LOVE to see us working towards learning how best to program these suckers. Wish I still had my Excel tools for the DFI...

Not sure who's it is but I think it's Scarab - tough to tell though! . I don't think it's Fairlady's either else I'd think he'd have said something here first. Overall I'd say the car looks decent but an in-person viewing would be best. Has a rollbar, has ram's horn exhaust manifolds, mechanical fan, stock brakes, stock type wheels. Needs a front bumper. Maybe write the guy and ask for some closeups of the damage. Overall it soounds decent but some shots of the interior and of the rust in particular sure would be nice!

I'm not sure on th ebrick wall - get a good tach on it and see where the "wall" is. It might very well be the rev limiter. GT-40 intake is a good one as is the Cobra intake which can be more readily ported. Nothing wrong with the GT-40 on the street but you WILL lose some low end torque, in a light Z that's a no brainer IMO. TB woul dbe a good idea after the intake and 1.7 rockers will add some lift but sacrifice some potential revs - I never noticed though. Heads, now there's a can of worms! There are so many different ones aorund now that it's sick. Shop just did a group buy on AFRs and they were VERY nice - smooth CNC porting, love it. For a 302cube street car the GT-40 aluminum isn't bad but they've had some come in with defects so be careful. They've also had some high-end heads drop valves so inspect anything you get just in case. I'll keep an eye out for intakes and for heads - TBs are all over the place. Accufab TBs look like jewelery and I'm not exaggerating. I like my 75mm but a 70 would be fine for the street. Other than that, leave it alone (shrug). Heck, with heads and whatnot it'll be a high RPM screamer

Weird, I check it through this ISP and it comes up fine - did you change anything? Wow, 2 inches is cutting things pretty close. Is that 2 per side or total? Leaves very little room for error but if you've got a block there then a test fit shouldn't be too hard to try If you get to that point please try to take some pics. How is the motor mounted? Is it conventional sorts of mounts or something funkier? Does it look like it'll be easy to mount? Do we have any word on the transmission out of a TT yet? Would really suck if someone got one only to find out it was a no-go It may not be the fastest when you're done but it's going to be unique and darned nice! Thanks for keeping us up to daye.

From the reading I've done and the posts here by someone awhile ago that DID this swap I'd say it's MORE difficult than the Z swap. The Z swap, honestly, isn't that hard to do. The SBC really fits pretty well in the Z and except for teething issues that you'll find in any swap I think mine has gone very well. I will grant you that a 25+ year old car needs upgrades more so than a 7 year old car but them's the breaks. Hrm, as for that RX7 - a new motor can be gotten and installed for around $4K if the numbers I heard being tossed around last night at the Mazda club meeting were correct. Unfortunatly it seemed like an awfully high number of people knew what this cost Most agreed that my high boost is putting me on the edge too I'd suggest you dig up the posts by the guy who did this swap here in the forums. Contact him and see what he says. He had a really high powered rotary motor that he realized wouldn't last and so went SBC. If you think Z purists are a PITA wait till you find a Rotary purist - whew! The rotary really is a pretty neat high revving motor though and if you go ahead with this V8 swap consider a really high winding motor like a SBC 302 or 327 - it would be sweet! Keep the weight down with as much aluminum as you can and have a ball. Keep us posted on it too and I might also be willing to buy some parts from the blown up car (lol). P.s. Scotie - there were SEVERAL turbo Miatas there and I took pics for ya'! MANY were running the MiataLink stuff and swore by it. [ September 06, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Okay, that looks like the spoiler I've got in my spare room I got it from MSA and it's urethane. It's made by XEON if memory serves - can look to doubl check if you'd like. The front bumper appears to be from Arizona Z or from MSA and is fiberglass - I've got a pair of them from MSA. Since ArizonaZ won't sell you one call up MSA and ask about it. Fuzzy on price but I think it was a little over $100 apiece. It was a nice looking piece when mine showed up and needed litle in the way of bodywork before painting. Hope that helps!

What are you looking for? My friend's shop does Mustangs all day long so there's usually parts coming in and out fairly often. Shipping is a PITA mind you but if there's something you can't find that I can I'm willing to try and help. In Mike's case I owe him Not much on my shelves other than what I've mentioned already. Stock shifter, broken clutch cables, some old gauges.

If you do it and it runs better than the car probably needs more fuel and I'd work on fixing that problem the right way rather than fooling the computer. The problem with fooling the computer is that it usually has unintended side effects. I'll give you a "for instance" that may not apply to Zs. On Fords with bigger injectors folks buy a "retuned" MAF meter to run the new injectors properly. Hell, I've got one too. This is a BAD move. Why? ECU is tuned for 19lb injectors, when it sees X voltage from MAF it thinks X amount of air is blowing into the motor. As a result it gives X amount of injector pulse and X amount of timing. Terrific right? Now, put in bigger injectors and a "retuned MAF". What's that do? They REDUCE the amount of voltage linearly such that X amount of air now puts out a LOWER amount of voltage. The ECU thinks the air is lower and reduces the injector pulse - which is fine since that's the correct fueling for the bigger injectors. See the problem yet? You've just screwed your timing curve! The computer is now running the timing curve for a lower amount of air. (sigh) Try explaining this to a Mustang guy - most of them just don't get it because they do NOT understand how the EEC is working. The "smart" way to do this is to change the bytes in the computer that spec out injector size but for some reason I've only ever seen one tuner talk about doing this and his vaporware hardwaresoftware has yet to hit the street. As a result I've got a modified MAF and a custom chip that has hopefully taken care of the ignition issues as well as fueling. Heck, the EEC is so sophisticated that moving the position of the MAF nearer or closer to the TB changes things. The EEC actually "knows" the distance and makes tuning changes based upon the distance it expects the MAF to be from the TB. Amazing what the OEMs have to do to get driveability and emissions just right isn't it? When you fiddle the MAF on a Z, as I believe some do, you MAY also be changing timing so be careful and take small steps. I don't know very much about the Z ECU so I can't say for sure (shrug). Anyone ever looked into this? How does the ZXT ECU do timing? P.S. WOT timing may not reference the MAF on the Mustang - I've seen differing answers on that. Retuned MAF may only hose the part throttle ignition curves, I'm not sure.

6250 is the stock rev limiter. You can get chips to bump that up if you want but I'm not sure how high or what other benefits you might get out of it. Hrm, Mike I've got some 1.7 bolt-down roller rockers on my shelf ;D Stock the motor probably needs exhaust first, intake second, TB, and then I think heads become the cork. I thought you weren't going to hot rod this motor? (lol) Hrm, if you want to get real crazy we can talk about a pair of turbos and a plug-in DFI unit. I think you'd twist the convertible in half! P.s. Saw the price list for 86-93 Paxton 'chargers the other day. My friends shop is now a dealer for them as well as ATI. A "standard" NOVI charger kit was less than 2K but I don't recall the exact price. Not sure I can work a deal but if this perks up any of the Ford guy's ears let me know and I'll see what I can do. 8lbs of boost...

Heh, I gues I just see myself as a Ford guy or maybe just a guy that likes fast cars Anyway, know a little bit about JR and I know that Brian pulled his car from that shop and why (shrug). Brian is the one who's running the new gen DFI and wants me to put on a turbo too Frankly, I don't much care how someone arrives at their final tune. This is a hobby for me and if I didn't enjoy tinkering I'd be driving a scooter. Dyno or street I'd like some info on how to best setup one of these suckers and why one, in someone's opinion, might be better than another. I want to better understand the fueling, ignition, and how to arrive at the best tune. If you guys know then please share. This time around I'll have access to a dyno and while it won't be tomorrow I'm tryin to figure out what ECU is going to give me bang for the buck and not make me cry trying to tune it. the TEC is supposed to be a "different animal" where tuning is concerned because it has it's own terminology to wrap your mind around.. How long did it take you all to "get" this terminology? I'd much rather have a calm discussion on what ECUs work best, which have pitfalls, and why one might be better than another. We almost had that discussion before, can we try again? It sounds like you're running L6 motors - anyone got access to V8 maps? For that matter would it make sense for one of us to host maps for others? They're not real big are they? Then we could pool the knowledge and tuning instead of bitching about how one of us arrives at working maps. RX7 guys are doing this and I'm sure others are too but I'll be darned if I can find out where (sigh). I'd be happy to host if the demand isn't sky high and the maps not huge - I can even set it up so that descriptions of mods could be tacked on - password protected if need be. Does this make sense to anyone else? Hrm, maybe LT1 maps might work for me? Anyone running the new DFI or FelPro units want to toss some experience in the ring? I'm honestly open as to what ECU I wind up with but cost is going to play some part after having to toss a $1700 tranny in the dumper (sob).

260 - hit my WEB site fo rpics. ANYTHING you want a pic of that you don't already see just say the word and I'll work on it. I host my own server andhave a digital camera so it's not a real big deal usually. The wheels that I'm running are meant for a MUSTANG. It's possible that the wheels you've got might work. I've got the 94-95 tri-spoke wheels on my Mustang and I used them to help me figure out what would work on my setup. My head scratching is documented here if you search Do me a favor - measure yor wheels. I need to know distance from mounting pad to rim lip and lip to lip. I hate math and doing this before made my head hurt but I'll try to compare what you've got with my present setup for you to see how it comes up. Spacers on my setup is the thin stuff you get at Pep Boys, hardly a spacer at all! Without it the tire barely rubs the strut tube at full droop in back. It's possible that I don't need the spacers and I actually need to try this on the back since my tire was barely rubbing the fender lip. A future test I guess! Oh, and as I recall the +40mm went up front and the +20mm was in back. Sounds weird but the 300ZX hubs pooched out the front track a little. Weird to see a deeper dish in back but there ya' go (shrug). Lemme' know how I can help and I'll do what I can.... P.S. Mazda wheels fit and so do Supra if I recall. My RX7 wheels almost ended up on the Z but they're only 7inches wide

Don't let engine bay size be the deciding factor. The older Z engine bay (I've got a 240) swallows the V8 jut fine. It's EASY to work around! Make your decision based on things like emissions laws and comfort, maybe weight too. Nothing at all wrong with a ZX swap but the older Zs work just as well where engine bay space is concerned. I think the only things about a ZX swap that would concern me would be the power steering, emissions laws, and wiring. If you're comfortable with all of that go for it.

I can shoot some pics of my "repro" seals if you'd like. The stainless did NOT fit as well as it did the original seals and the new seals were different in size - I can see where the car was painted without removing the glass I think the OEM seals are better but these aren't super bad IMO. Pics might help you decide - lemme know.

Oy, when did anyone say that dyno tuning and street tuning are mutally exclusive?! I tuned my DFI myself with no dyno but it took TIME and I had ZERO assistance from anyone. Given a choice I'd have had a dyno tune it and then tinkered from there myself - except there weren't any dynos around my area! Hell the twits around here wanted me to put a CARB on it! Nothing at all wrong with learning how to tune the silly thing yourself - why buy a programmable EFI system and NOT learn? IMO they aren't set and forget - there's always hiccups in the driveability or little areas that need to be tinkered with. Why do these two methods have to be mutually exclusive? For that matter, if you're making good power now on your setup what makes you think a day with a dyno wouldn't yield more? Hrm, and I for one am not a "chevy guy" and see no need to call anyone names. We've never had the silly little marque bashing here that other boards suffer, let's not start it now. Make power your way, other people will do what they want. 330+ from a stock LT1 isn't too shabby. Throw a turbo on it and stand back! Frankly, I'd much rather have you tell me why you like the TEC, what makes it "good", what pitfalls to watch out for (like gorunding which I've heard before), some tuning tips, and why I should consider that unit over a new gen DFI or FelPro. It seems I've just won a Victor Jr. off E-Bay for a whopping $90 an I'm going to have it setup for EFI. I'm not in a hurry but I'd like to figure out what I'll use for an ECU in the future. Electromotive is just up the street from my home but I swear I either find folks that love them or hate them. Convince me to buy their ECU and you can help me tune it I'll have access to a friend's dyno and the street (shrug). I had a hell of time trying to learn how to program my DFI by myself and am willing to listen to someone who can explain how this all works better than the silly EMIC manual did. Why has this turned into an argument?!

Ouch, that price is about what I had to pay for my shorties!

Do you have fuel filters in your carb? They would be inside the carb itself where the fuel line(s) go in and will look like sintered brass. That might also be plugged up. You may have also gotten some gunk into the carb itself if it got past all of the filters. It might also have damaged the pump but if it did then fuel pressure or delivery would be hampered and it might not even run at all. How exactly is it behaving now? Same? No go at WOT or does it have trouble puttering around town too?