BLKMGK

A few of mine From driver's rear side -> Mine was a Triangle aluminum cell w/foam and sender. 10gallon I think. It's sprung two leaks so far for no aparent reason - not on seams either The tire well was removed, two rails welded in with angle iron, tabs welded to cell, cell bolted in. Fill is through a sheet steel cover that has a little cupola "house". If th ecell had been set lower rear fill would've been possible through the license tag but might have hit parking blocks. In hindsight I think the fuel cell Mikelly has with a bladder and steel outer shell would've been better. It holds MUCH more fuel too I think. Live and learn I guess.

I've been looking at the Force site a good bit too. Ouch the price hurts though! Their throttle bodyair door setup is real pricey at $500 or so and really drives the price up. However it looks like a quality piece and if you want it to be straight forwardbolt on and go those guys seem to be setup to do just exactly that. Note that they can use older GM ECUs if you wish and if you're not going to be making many changes that might work. It could require some chip exchanges while they zeroed in on the tune though. I have been trying to get some detailed info on the new GEN VII DFI box. A guy that I respect, and who is talking to me about turbos, has picked one up. He may have sold a FelPro to get it too so I'm pretty curious. If anyone has found a site much better than the Accel site concerning this box I'm all ears. Some things I've found of interest: Can datalog 14 sensorsinputs at once! Can selectively display those sensors in it's own analysis package. Can filter spikes too! Can control torque converter lockup Can control A/C clutch Can use wideband O2. Sequential, bank to bank, and batch fire injection - cylinder by cylinder fuel adjustment in all modes NO MAF ability. Fuel and ignition rev limiters. External switching for ignition cut (two step) MIL light for diagnosing malfunctions 3 stage NOS ability Knock sensor Fan control Low and high impedance injector drivers Harnesses for Ford and Chevy injector setups. Note that a bunch of that is using optional functions. Nice to see that Accel is bundling this with intakes like the Superam as before but shame on Jegs for not carrying it! Pics of the software on the Accel site are too small and nobody else seems to have pics I will try to get a copy of the software from my friend and check it out I've not yet mapped out what the SpeedproFelPro can do in comparison but I do know that it can do wideband and it CAN do MAF ($1K option). I'm bidding on a Victor Jr or two on E-Bay. If I get one (not looking good) I'll start doing mods to it in anticipation of eventually going EFI.

Be aware too that some powedercoating is tougher than others. IF you go with powder be sure to ask about which ones are toughest. Some may not be as UV resistant either but on suspension that shouldn't be an issue. My rear stuff was powdered and I found that if I wasn't careful some of it would scratch (shrug). I've nto yet had to use POR.

I'm not sure about the secondary melting temp but I've seen this system in use. It makes for some VERY nice results. Chromed or polished pieces in particular look real nice when a translucent color is applied When I replaced my stove I came VERY close to keeping the old one just for this use but decided against it. Smaller pieces work well in an old toaster oven but you won't want to cure anything in the house and certainly not in anything that might be used for food at a later date. [ September 02, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Race folks have been running them in some classes - especially the Ford guys from what I've seen and of course the Buick folks. Actually Chevy guys probably do too but I don't pay as much attentiion to them I think that the reason they aren't seen so much here is that the rules for some classes make them uncompetitive. I know one of the Buick folks who ran a dragster had so much grief with the rules he parked it. He was running a Buick 6 and beating up on the V8 guys. Most every weekend a rule would be made to slow him down Not too many turbo V8s on the street I guess but I think the reason is mostly complexity. My guy seems to think it could be done easily enough so perhaps I'll take him up on it at some point - my motor was built to take boost if I desire. I'd certainly welcome the quiet of a turbo over a blower if it's not too much more trouble. We'll see - this is down the road a good bit I assure you! P.S Thank you for the link - I'll check it out and ALWAYS appreciate stuff like that. Frankly, I'm VERY envious of the Holden cars you guys get and the Ute looks truly cool. Why has GM of America got their head up their butt? [ September 02, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Okay, after looking around at various mufflers and weighing the advice here I think I'm going to go with a pair of 7331 Spintechs. These ought to preserve ground clearance and really help with the sound. I've actually got a feeling that if I simply had a set of fully welded headers that the car would really quite down but rather than take chances I'll do the Spintechs. If they're as loud as two chamber Flo's then the combined with the Sebring I should be pretty mellow and not real choked up. One question though - they offer an "online price" but for th elife of me I see NO way to actually ORDER online. Huh?! So, it looks like Sanderson headers and Spintechs. Not cheap but I hope to not have to redo this anytime soon. While I think of it - am noticing NO heat in the cabin so far so the heat and sound insulation I laid down must be helping Anyone else running Spintechs now? Tomorrow I goto work on the idle...

It's not just the motor either. Look for transmissions to gain gears (5speed auto anyone?) and to eventually become a continously changing ratio with no discernable gears. That's been a dreamgoal and I've heard of some attempts coming close but nothing recently. BTW - the computer controlled valvtrain stuff has been aorund for a little while at least. I seem to recall that Electromotive might have done some work on that and recall seeing a test engine documented years ago. I also recall a blurb somewhere stating that it wouldn't be practical until the new 42volt (?) standard for auto electrical systems is in production. The variable compression engine, if memory serves, doesn't require quite so much energy and I could swear I'd heard it would first be used on a diesel - no? It's exciting to finally see some of the really neat stuff that was thought of so long ago starting to approach reality. I think the ability to modify the cam ratio via computer, compression ratio, and maybe the trans is going to make for some truly fast energy effecient cars. P.S. Yes, the speeling part of my brain is napping still.

Aw geez, now the friend of mine who's doing a twin turbo 340cube small block Ford is pushing ME to turbo my car. Peeks in the engine bay, points to the drivers front corner and says "cake". Single turbo T66, skip the ball bearing stuff, and away you go. Always easy to dream mind you but I think I'll settle for my car running "right" first (Ahem). He did say that I should hook up with him this Winter as he knows guys that can install injector bungs in my intake and fab fuel rails stands etc. If anyone sees a Victor Jr up for sale "cheap" lemme' know as I'll give it to him to start work ASAP. He also said to skip the big dollar air doors and just use something like an Accufab TB on a plate. He says lot's of folks are using them this way (shrug). Took the time to show me how they've milled his turbo housing on the exducer to increase flow. Those suckers were huge! I cannot even imagine doing all of this just yet and am not sure I'd want that sort of power in this car but it's neat to dream about it. Can't help but think plumbing something like this would be harder than he thinks, will have to keep in touch with him

Sweet, thanks! They havehad a pump that had some plastic in it as part of the design. Word was it wasn't durable but if this sucker is billet and quiet perhaps it's the winnder we're all searching for. Did he isolate it much? And guys - I've had it with these headers. Plugs missing like mad all over now due to the boots burning on them. Runs pig rich and this makes it worse. Car will stall if it gets warm and the RPMs aren't kept up with all the missing. Once stalled it has to sit or you can pop the hood wait a few and it cranks right up Rather embarrassing as you're pulling into a space at the local cruise (sigh). Will call Sanderson on Tuesday I think to discuss headers with them as they ought to know best. Car will get headers, probably two mufflers, and tuned. I want this sucker streetable! Got pulled over for speeding trying to keep the R's up in a 25mph zone. The cop had seen me stalled beforehand so after a bit of discussion he let me go - not cool! fun evening though over all (lol)

Thank you. Those are th eGrantelli valve covers that I think Jeg's is selling now - if not look at Summit. You'll have to weld in a fill or use a push in deal. I used the Moroso aluminum weld-in fill and we discovered the metal is a bit dirty. Weld came out okay but I had to "recreate" the threads a bit I think I've FINALLY got them sealed with serious RTV as every set of gaskets I tried was a joke. If there are any specifics you'd like snapped lemme' know - there are no secrets on my car (shrug). Running PIG rich right now and those headers are going outa' there ASAP.

The Starion bodystyle is sweet! Looks like a little Ty fighter! I had no idea they were that heavy though I don't often see them around any more but growing up I thought they were something else. Apparently th emotors left a bit to be desired and yeah the injection too. Heh, a GN motor makes most anything fast though I guess (lol). That would be a really cool swap, if you do it please keep us posted and take lot's of pics. Hrm, pretty soon we'll need an odd-ball forum for all those strango' swaps that aren't Zs (lol).

Is that the silver pump that has a sort of phenolic plastic piece? I know they've got a Summit brand pump that's partially plastic that I've heard can leak. I think it was here that I heard that - anyone else heard about this? I too thought it was an awesome deal but having heard that it might have issues I passed. Glad ot hear it's working well on your friend's car but do tell him to keep an eye on it for awhile just to be sure. How loud is it compared to the blue?

Welll, maybe the later ZX diffs aren't much cheaper than the LSD clutch units If someone does a kit for them the $400+ won't be so hateful though UMO...

I THINK I've got this licked!!! My issue was that I couldn't find a crimp ring and somehting to crimp a fitting onto this tiny line. The hydraulic shop had had fittings for small inside diameter but their outside diameter was too big. Soo... I woke up this morning with an idea. I've got a DISH system here and not all that long ago had to replace an end. Yup, it's about th esame size crimp ring as the clutch slave line! I hit RatShack this morning and grabed two sets of crimp rings, F-56 for RG-6 fits best It was a PITA getting the ring to slide over the stainless "hairs" and even recutting the end didn't help. I ended up wrapping a round of strapping tape on it and then pressing each little wire under the crimp with my nail. I then slid two crimp rings on and screwed in the -4 fitting. I didn't use the red outer part for obvious reasons. For this ring you're supposed to use the smaller of the two crimps on my hex crimp tool but as tight a fit as this was I decided to use the bigger one. Sure enough it crimped it right down nicely! The upper fo the two rings crimped best but I think between the two of them I'll have a leak proof strog seal. I will pressure test this tomorrow since tonight I'm driving the car and would prefer to leave the clutch alone for now. I don't trust what's on there now but swapping would be awhile an dif it leaks even longer. I've got valve cover leaks to fix and I need to work on some other small stuff so this is on hold till tomorrow. I will report back ASAP on this and I've taken pics too in case this works out. Cross your fingers please!

Sweet, you picked up a digital unit! Please let us know how you liek it. I'm running just th eignition in the Accell distributor I've got and am thinking that a multispark of some sort wil be better. Analog it will NOT be...

I drove a Vega GT with a TH350, steeep gears, and a somehwat healthy 350 for awhile. With a ratchet shifter that allows you to shift manually and an auto that's done "right" you could have a real blast in a light car like the Z or Vega. It's scary quick switching gears and when it hooks up it'll fly. Great in traffic, no sore knees etc. I think a TH400 is a bit heavier and a bit overkill for the light Z but if it's what ya' got... Sticks are more fun for tooling around IMHO. More of a "sporty" feel I guess. with the T10 I think you'll have an external shifter which might be harder to install too but others have done it and can guide you. It really does come down to personal prefrence but don't coount the auto out. I'm a stick guy but I sure loved that Vega's trans. I'm sorry I ever sold that car - BIG mistake

I'd use the JTR trans mount (shrug). Look to Lokar for a throttle cable if the newer ZX still used the crank and rod thingie that the older cars did.

Bigger caps are better. As the 302 progressed through th eyears Ford figured out how to take more an dmore metal out of it. Current 302s can handle about 450 well tuned HP with a stick before they become very iffy. Run juice and it really gets hairy. Aftermarket girdles are used to keep the main caps from walking and that's good but aorundhere we've had a few motors spit the entire crank out WITH the girdle still attached to the mains! Seems the meat the bolts go into is what's been thinned and the bolts simply rip straight out. I've been told by a reliable engine builder (Steve Christ) that 351W blocks and cranks can take 650HP before they get iffy. The stock crank in a 351W isn't so bad it seems The 351W need not be real hairy to make that power either. 351W with GOOD heads + 10lbs of boost from a blower and a decent cam should hit 600HP. This is how my 351W was built but I've never really gotten it running right - that's right after the Z. Emissions will be an issue I'm afraid. What are your plans for the 351W? What sort of power are you looking to get from the 302? Unless you're goingt o go nuts most any 302 block ough tto be fine. It's usually things like rods that will go first anyway.

Hrm, it occurs to me that the Z IRS may also fall to this ruling. Am I incorrect? Not that I really thingk I'll run that fast but a healthy V8 with a shot of juice ought to come close to scaring 10s - yes?

Heh, should we revive one of the exhaust threads for this? I'm considering the Holley 2100 headers. 2.5 inch collector, 1 5/8ths. I THOUGHT the Flowtechs had 1.5 primaries and 2.5inch collectors but I just hit their site to double check -> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESFT/Hugger.html Holley must have recently bought them? Seems the Hooker headers are about the same size then (sigh). I had a REAL laugh at the blurb on their site about the Flowtech's not fitting angle plug heads. Hrm, they don't fit my STRAIGHT plug heads either. I think I've got one really defective header here! Who makes a 1 3/4 header that both fits and doesn't cost a mint? Coated please Pics? Hrm, pics from above showing steering clearance and frame clearance on both sides. Heck, take a pile of them - I'll host if needed! Shots from below would be great too but a PITA. How about a shot from th eside showing ground clearance? Not sure pulling the motor is what I want to install a header (ahem) but... Heh, heard my Holley a little today. With the intake leak solved it idles better but still darned loud! I'd be happy if the fuel pump was the only thing bugging me soundwise Hrm? -> http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=SDH-CC1-3/4 http://www.sandersonheaders.com/pagesbypartnum/cc134.htm Have to look at the motor to see if this clears everything. Would have to run a 3 to 2.5inch reducer too. Note the price on those suckers - uncoated Update: Did a little meauring. I think the 1 3/4 headers will fit. I'm wondering if that might be too big though. Certainly a step coming out of the port is bad! They stick out a bit but I can't quite tell if they're sticking out further than the Flowtechs. Rewarder makes some too but not much info about sizing is given nor do they mention angle or straight plugs. Can't tell if they come coated or not either but the collector is 2.5 and the price is right $310 Sometime this weekend I WILL order some headers to solve this problem and if I have to squeal so be it. I think this will solve my miss too! [ August 31, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Quick update that I also posted elsewhere - th eOEM GM hose is NOT -4, nor is it -3. It's inside diameter is bigger than -4 but it's outside is smaller than what a -4 fitting expects Headed to the hydraulic shop today I think... Update: NAPA had the stuff to make lines with this size inside diameter but their stuff wants a MUCH bigger outside and couldn't crimp down this small. I may have to look to a race shop to crimp this line for me. MikeSCCA had a good one on the left coast do my brake lines - shop like that could probably do this as well. The end fitting doesn't appear "standard" but I want to hear that from an expert first before I believe it. [ August 31, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Hrm, went to do the -3# to -4 today. Seems the GM hose is NOT -4! Neither does it appear to be -3. i'm going to try and visit a hydraulic shop today and have a fitting made lock stock and barrel. I'm betting that the fitting I've got from the slave isn't "standard" but it's worth a shot. If I do this I'll have the whole hose made and I will post the cost if it can be done as I'm betting others might be interested

Cerberus, what other EFI systems do they work with? Is the TEC their preferred system over all others? Have you heard anything on the TEC III? I'm blocks from them and have heard NOTHING - yet. I know where a dyno is being setup in Manassas but it will NOT be offering much in the way of EFI tuning yet, possibly on Mustangs in the future. Presently they send Mustangs up to NJ for tuning but will be working a service via FAX with those guys. If you know much about the TEC II please share - we've had several threads talking about it and other EFI solutions.

IndianaZ and others running the Edelbrick straight plugs - pics if possible PLEASE! Zfan, which Sanderson header? What primary size? I've got 1.5 now and I think it's too small for the Edelbrocks judging from the port mismatch. Below is a pic with the FelPro gasket that came with the heads I've got BAD header problems right now and can't even pull one of my plugs without pulling a header. They fit by the motor mounts perfectly though and had they bothered to weld them I'd say they were perfect for angle plug heads (sigh). I'll be trying to get a replacement for the one that's defective and then selling them. I'm not sure I'm interested in long tubes but if they fit WELL I might be - ground clearance is a concern I'm SURE others would be interested in them though. Oh, and I'm sorry for sort of hi-jacking this thread. I did remove my vapor tank and vent right to the atmosphere. I don't like this but I couldn't figure out how to keep it and use it in a "responsible" manner without the risk of vapor leaks inside the car. Holley Blue - yup I've got one. Massive rubber around it and on the mount. I cannot hear it much over the exhaust system - that's NOT a tribute to my isolation of it. Previously I had a Carter pump, it groaned too but probably not as badly.

Well, I thought I'd start a thread with some of the common "issues" I've found so far debugging this sucker. The trans was pretty well documented so I won't go there but here are some little things I've found. I'd be interested in hearing from others what little gotcha's they've found as well.. Slave cylinder. Yeah, the fitting popped. Switching to the OEM fitting will fix this I believe. Reverse lockout too stiff - now too weak. Careful spring selection will fix this but test before installing th etrans. I'll write this up ASAP on my site but for now get with me offline if you need detailspics. Rough idle, poor vacuum. Idling at 1500RPM and I'm pretty sure my cam isn't that radical! Seems I've got a leak in the back of the carb at the gasket. Tomorrow's project. Idle mixture probably rich, fuel floats a bit high. Turns out fuel pressure is right. Might have to jet this thing too. Brake pedal too soft, now too stiff. Original master was too small, now this one is fine but my vaccuum is low - no boost. (smack) Loud exhaust. I actually found part of the problem here tonight and it's NOT th emuffler. When the guy did my exhaust he mentioned that the one Flowtech header wasn't fully welded. Looking at the bottom colector flange I saw this was true. No biggie I figured, it'll seal. Tonight I discovered that NONE of the collector pipes appear welded at the bottom! It's loud as heck on the driver's side and there's exhaust flow shooting upwards straight out of the middle of the pipes It's like an open header on that side and really noticable when the engine starts. I'm on a header quest again! I may even have a friend make me a set. This set with straight plugs backs one plug straight into the header anyway so this is probably my ignition miss too... Lokar throttle cable keeps loosening at firewall and at carb. Cable stretched a little too. Make sure you size this cable a little long when you cut it BTW. Starter - JTR recomended OEM LT1 starter wasn't strong enough and wouldn't hot start. CVR starter fixed this for less money and doesn't grind. It's bigger but it gets a BIG thumb's up by me. I sincerely thank the member who told me it would fit! Timing marks on damper may not be right. Going to have to use a piston stop and a timing tape to fix this I think. If nothing I'll verify TDC and have a tape that tells me exactly what timing is when I hit it with a light. Timing may be causing idle and vaccuum problems too. Rear clunked when I first drove it. Seems some bonehead didn't tighten the mount 100% and relied on the impact to drive it home. Fixed with a wrench and some swearing. Misc leaks from valve covers and whatnot. SBC has too few valve cover bolts IMO. On my second set of gaskets with no relief in sight. May just RTV these suckers down! That's it so far. Seems long but except for the headers it's all fixable with tuning or a little tinkering!