BLKMGK

Eh, just let the bad seals around the tailights exhaust the air Didn't the really early Zs have vents on the rear hatch for this, then later they began using the pillar vents? I wonder what it would look like with no vents, anyone got a pic or maybe a Photoshop rendering? Not sure I'd like it unless you zapped the drip rails too...

Careful - if the porcelin contacs the header the whole thing heats up and the wire inside "fries". I learned this from someone who had gone through the experience... You want to maintain at least a little airgap if possible. Those suckers are straight boot only too I think and NOT cheap. Correction - they DO come in 90degree boots as well. I think I'll try a regular MSD set first and then see how bad they burn etc. I'll be running straight plugs... [ June 22, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

SDS right? Hard to install? Tune? Details man!

Hrm, wonder what a red car would look like with a set of those? 'Course then I'd need wider tires (sigh). Better get it running the way it is first huh? Really like that look though, nice car!

Hrm, I'd love to hear from some other folks running this setup - especially on a V8. I'm used to the bells and whistles of a DFI type setup but this one's simplicity may hold some real value. Is the tuning granular enough for you to get good power without hurting things in other areas? Their WEB site certainly diplays some impressive vehicles using their setups...

Yes, you'd run a wire along the top of the windshield behind the trim. It owuld ten go straigh tdow nto the mirror. It wouldn't stick out anymore than the stem holding the stock mirror. Our Impalla has one of these and until one day when th emirror fell off I never noticed the wire! I was real worried about gluing that sucker back up having heard horror stories but when I followed the instructions on the adhesive bottle to the letter it stuck VERY well and has been up solid for over a year (shrug). No reason the Z wouldn't be the same IMO. I've not done this to my Z yet as the mirror is about $100 new and is low on my list of to-do's. Might find a nicer one in the junkyard too Many luxury cars and mini-vans have similiar setups these days - you don't notice their wires do you?

also, since we're talking neato' mods.... Look through some of the Ford mags like MM&FF - there's a company selling those nice self dimming rear view mirrors fairly cheap. If you get the convertble model it's even got map lights. The regualr one as an outside temp gauge. You'd probbly have to glue it to the windshield instead of the stock Z stalk but.... I've got the GM version of this in the Impalla - awesome! No more being blinded from behind.

Aluminum heads? That's not stock dude, if you can get it cheap go for it. Oil pans can be swapped if you must but finding one wiht th erightpan sure would be nice. 351W "double hump" pans came in Crown Vic police cars and those might have ben used elsewhere too. Not sure if that's what you need or not.

Sure, it can be done. You can put injectpor bungs into the carb intake and run an air doorthrottle body or you can swap on an OEM style EFI intake. Pluses and minuses on both sides of that. Cost is another matter - do you want to be able to adjust it yourself or would you be happy having someone tune a chip for you? You can run an OEM computer or an aftermarket one. How radical is the motor? You can spend tons if you want, it's spending only a little that's harder! If you're really unfamilier with EFI thne check out the SDS EFI systems. Their computers require no laptop and are supposed to be pretty simplecheap to setup. Some here are running them on the L6 and can speak to them better than I. I plan to go EFI myself in the future but I've yet to decide what I'll do for a computer and the manifold decision is still somwhat in the air. P.. for you EFI guys, Whipple is supposed ot be coming out with their own EFI computer real soon now. Very powerful CPU and I think it's supposed to be MAF based! This could be really nice...

Should all be pretty much the same. There are some older years that are supposedly more desireable but at the HP levels we're looking at I don;t think it matters. Some of th elater ones would have the needed threaded holes fro a roller cam - that migh tbe nice to have. I've forgotten the switchover year though - it was righ tabout when the first Lightning came out though - fairly new. It won't have a roller in it but it could take one if that's what floated your boat... (shrug) Oh, make sure it's not a Cleveland or a 400

Ah, but the nice thing about the Hyundai markers were that they pretty much covered the stock hole, was able to use one of the stock mount points, AND looked good Where's the downside? Now about those mirrors (lol).

Heh, my oilpan with a SBC is below the darned crossmember! And NO, I do NOT like it either. FWIW - if you go EFI there are things that can be done to lower the height of the intake. It's possible to get a 351W w/EFI under the stock FOX bodied Mustang hood if you know what you're doing. Drop motor mounts are NOT the way to go in order to do that - you have to mill the intake halves...

FYI - here's Jamie's Z

Sweet, got home today and there was a package from Autometer with my LCD speedometer in it. Opened it up and the box inside had ASAP all over it - seems they hustled just a bit for me. Brief history: I wanted a speedo with the nice LCD tripodometer on it like they had in the carbon fiber series. Trouble was I didn't want those gauges with silver needles. After agonizing and speaking to an Autometer tech I went with the Phantoms - they felt these were easiest to see. I had originally wanted their new EL series of gauges which is what started this but those aren't being manufactured. Anyway, there's no LCD in the Phantom series but the tech told me to wait till Jan 1st - they were upgrading the line. Sure enough come Jan 1st the WEB site had the new numbers Ordered one from Jeg's middle of last month making sure the numbers were right. Surprise, it showed up with a mechanical odo - boo! Shot an E-mail to Autometer asking them about it, was advised to send my box striahgt to them rather than Jeg's and they woudl take care of it. They received it on the 30th of last month, a few days ago I shot them a note asking status. Seems the product line hadn't actually cranked up on this until the 13th of this month and I was one of the 1st in line for the new speedos Today it arrived in fine shape - woohoo! Yeah, might have been nice if Jeg's had had the new stock and all but it was sure nice of the Autometer guy not to run me around - they took care of this no charge to me except shipping out. Autometer tech was friendly and helpful, very nice service!

I'd love a mirror with a marker and turn signal. For that matter, I'd love to find a decent mirror period that didn't require a ton of work to mount. I'd like to know what model and year Hyundai too - hell if the price is right I'd buy the silly things new and skip the junkyard run.. wish we had the pick 'n pull tpe places aorund here. Last time I went to a junkyard it was a deathtrap. Ah the good old days Need to get out to a junkyard again! Hey SCCA - how did those Miata mirrors work out?

I'd like to know how well the 351W fits. It shouldn't be a bad swap, it's deck isn't that much taller! Lot's of parts out there for them and the 351W is just all around a tougher motor. Can be stroked to over 400cubes too Just need an easy documented source for the swap and motor mounts that cna be easily gotten. Not all of us have the access to what's needed to fabricate mounts...

Well guys I know for sure that the MSA people read in here. You don't think they benefit from our work at all do ya'? Ho much was their throttle linkage? Mine is a Lokar unit and very nice braided, less than $50 if memory serves. Mounts were mostly just steel plate, dirt simple and not much to them except I had them powdercoated. I dumped the latch altogether and sent the mount to someone else that needed it. JTR trans mount is overkill, you could support bridges with that thing! I had it modified for the T56 and it slipped in with little banging. My motor sits WAY back to the point where I had to remove a little brake line holder to allow the tranny to sit there If someone can get it further back my hat's off to them cause I sure couldn't. I didn't even use the entire slot I made in my crossmember! What trans are you going to run? If it's a T56 I've got a couple of tips for you and if it's going to use a hydraulic clutch make sure you drill holes for the line clamps BEFORE installing the motor - trust me For a radiator there are a few threads here, the HOWE unit I've got was less than $200 and is all aluminum. It'll do What will you do for a fan? Accessory routing? Been there done that... They give you wiring instructions too? If not get the JTR book.... Would be very interesting to know exactly what you get for your dollars there, their catalog just isn't clear enough!

FWIW I've got an A/A intercooler in my garage from my twin turbo 302. At WOT that sucker would see temps at near ambient! I'm talking something like 95degrees on a hot Summer day. Make it big enough and it'll really suck some heat from the air. Not sure I'd use a heater core for an intercooler. Yeah, it might work but geez it wouldn't be terribly effective. And don't even think about a trans cooler as the "radiator". Grab the radiator out of a Sprint or something - tiniest thing you've ever seen! (lol) The new Lightning trucks have interesting setups, maybe use the pump from one of their systems since you know darned well it should work forever out of an OEM setup. Many pumps aren't made to go full duty like that one must be....

That's too low Scottie! If that is indeed the voltage that your pump is seeing I believe you are losing some volume. The pressure may not drop as the regulator kicks in but it could also be effecting your spark. How old is the alternator? Belt slippage actually sounds like a real possibility too. Underdrive pulleys or stock type Buick setup?

SME-2000 http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp%3FType%3Dbysummitpart%26Part%3Dsme-2000%26Search.x%3D1%26SearchType%3DBoth No pic naturally but it looks to mount much like the one I just bought and has a more billet vs chrome sort of look. Oh well, I'll live!

Umm waitasec! On a 240Z th eside marker lights are just that - markers! No blinky blinky when you hit the signal! There's supposed ot be a way to twiddle with the ground wires to get them to blink opposite of the turn signals in the back (front too?) but I've not yet tackled that. Personally I want the Hyundai markers along with the blinky blinky. I even caught myself looking at the generic markers at Trak Auto tonight! AAhhhh!

Send them to me. I'll cut the size down and put them up for awhile If they're HUGE shoot me a note first and I'll give you a different address that can handle the bulk...

BTW - looking through a mag the other day I spotted a destroked Ford. Sucker had a tiny stroke, huge bore, 301cubes, made 500HP, and spun 10K RPM. Who woouldn't love a motor like that one?! Wow, it must SCREAM!

The older big block rears aren't the hot ticket I don't think. Seriously, review some of the Chevy rags. One of them had a reader's letter not long ago talking about a swap and they seemed to shy away from the big block unit. They claimed it was weak and while th ereader put forth that it must be strong due to HP ratings of th eday they pointed out that these were "optimistic". I believe you'd be better off for many reasons using one of th elater ones - at the very least they migh tbe easier to find! Maybe call up one of these rod type shops that build IRS rears and see what they say?

Just out of curiousity (sp?) doesn't the trans tunnel form a bit of a "spine" in a unibody car? Seems to me making it removable would take away some strength - no?