BLKMGK

Thank you for pulling a plug and checking!! Yeah, Edelbrock DOES seem to have a deal with Champion - it's all they seem to mention. I will grab a set of the plugs you're using and see how they look, my fingers are crossed. I wonder how close the Hedman and FlowTechs are in fitment... This page -> http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/chevy_2a.html mentions some header plugs but for "stock" heads. Grr! i'll let you know how this works out, sure wish the local Trak Auto had a clue and could've tried to cross this plug for me. I swear half the stores here have NO stock on the shelves and clueless clerks, it's tough finding parts out my way. Really silly to have half the pegs in your electrical and hardware fitting sections empty! Doh, wait you've got iron heads! Yeah, there are supposed to be some "differences". It may have to do with heat transfer out of the plug, I dunno'. Darn, not sure htose plugs will work or not. Unfortunatly this isn't a one size fits all thing - especially with aftermarket heads (sigh). Edelbrock should've known better darn it! [ July 01, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Lone, will those plugs work with the Edelbrock heads? I know Accell makes header plugs but I want to be sure I run the "right" plugs for these heads. Naturally that site doesn't picture the plug or tell ya' squat about what it fits. Plugs for aluminum heads are also apparently different than for iron heads. I've found refrences to these plugs being used in generators, several imports, and a couple of Chevy V8s so far. I even found one site that mentioned these plugs as being th ehot ticket to use where headers interfered (?!). Say what?! These things are looong! Long enough that when I put a plug socket over it it nearly pokes out the back of the socket. Sheeesh! http://www.martelbros.com/edel/automotive/headacces.html

Ford 5.0's came with either 2.73, 3.08, or 3.27 rears. Which one depended the trans and the car's option sheet. Stock was 2.73 fo rth estick, 3.08 optional. Auto's got 3.08 stock, 3.27 optional. Mustang owners quickly found out that switching to 3.55, 3.73, or in some cases 4.10 gears got them better acceleration with some sacrifice in top end. The 4 series gears were a bit extreme on the street and in my case 3.73s were too low going through the traps swith my turbos I found 3.27 to work well for that car. In your case you'll want to check the tire height first before swapping ratios. Mustangs had a 26.5inch tall tire if I recall right, Datsun tend to be shorter. That will give you the effect of a quicker gear. Go for a 3.5 or 3.7 rear for good acceleration but be sure and do some math to figure out highway cruising RPM. I'm not sure how the lower weight of the Datsun will effect your gear choice - certainly there shouldn't be an effect for highway cruising anyway....

Iron heads but the darned thing makes nearly 480 flywheel HP! I've seen several mags test that sucker and the block is darned solid. Every motor gets dyno tested before going out the door too - whew! Can't help but think that would be a great way to get a darned nice motor ready to roll. Probably a bit heavy though...

One more time, damned IE! I'm running Edelborck Perormer RPM heads with STRAIGHT plugs and FlowTech block hugger headers. I bought the recommended Champion Champion rc-12yc plugs for it today. On the driver's side rear plug it backs straight into the header, I can almost thread it but I'm afraid it'll crossthread. On the passenger side it's much the same thing except I got the plug in - it's VERY tight to the header! I know there are some aftermarket companies that make "short" plugs but so far I've not yet found a cross refrence. Neither Jegs nor Summit appears to list them and only list "Racing Plugs". The Mrgasket.com WEB site's PDF crashed my browser a moment ago so I'll look when I've posted this Anyone else running into this issue? Can anyone recommend an off the shelf plug to get around this problem? It used to be a little easier when plugs weren't kept behind the darned counter - today one place refused to cross refrence the Champion plug because he said they were "very strict" about brands etc. and had no Champions in stock (dumbass). Heeeeelp!! Would angled plugs have been a better choice? I bought straight because I was told they were better for headers but perhaps this was wrong? Just want to maybe help out the next guy specc'ing his engine out... Update: Oh great, it's an Accell 0786 cross ref plug. There's no "header version" available! If Champion has a WEB site I'll be darned if I can find it. I've sent a note to Edelbrock tech support, cross your fingers... [ July 01, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Lone, can you see out of that thing?

Heh, I'm on a DSL link - not super fast but not a big deal to DL 100K either. You picked a good spot to take that pic - no crap in the background, looks real nice. You even managed to stay out of the reflections taking the shot - lot's of people screw that part up. Ought to consider sending it in to someplace like SportCompact or maybe the new Z mag!

Thanks Lone! That's pretty much what I figured I guess. I had just wondered if perhaps bypassing the stock piece altogether by moving the heavy cable over might work. This starter also seems to have 2 small lugs, guess I need to slide further under there and get a good close look at them to be sure. Should have this part done by tomorrow along with some other small stuff. Just want to make sure everything's done as "right" as posisble so I've got no surprises come startup time... Thank you!

Wow, no dents or dings on that puppy either! Looks like it's been well taken care of too. You swapping a new motor in (I don't recall) or are you going to use an uglier car and preserve this one? As nice as it looks I wouldn't blame you for preserving it. Got to get you a copy of PhotoImpact though - it really takes the size of pics down nicely. Thanks for the tip on that Pete! This pic would probably be less than 60K using it.

Yup, that was me! If yo ucan get these guys to respond and it's a decent piece I want one too, okay I want TWO of them too http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html It's called a "custom duct". " 70- 78 Datsun 240/260/280Z g3614 280Z Style Ducts Custom" Right where they describe the "IMSA kit" you'll see a hood with this NACA duct floating over it with an arrow that says "custom duct" an d"fits 280Z style hoods". See that? Yup, my eagle eye spotted it but I'll be darned if I EVER got a price quote (sob). My E-mail just sort of seemd to talk past them, they never understood what I was trying to get and would send me prices for other parts. I never dropped the cash for the LD call though... If you hook up with them PLEASE let me know what the part costs. For that matter if anyone feels they could make one or sees a race car NACA duct that could be used there I'd be interested in hearing about it. I too wanted something "different" and done properly I might even be able to feed my air cleaner withthe low pressure from a set of those ducts... Good Luck!

Okay, I'm almost there on this (sigh). On the starter there are about 3 or 4 lugs. Two are small, one of them had a tag on it about it not being used on some cars the other looked a bit liek a mounting lug. Then there are two BIG lugs, one of which has a braided wire that goes into the starter itself, the second one was bare. I've run an ) gauge wire from the Ford "contactor" to the large "bare" stud. I believe I need to run a jumper to the stud that had the tag on it - yes? Also, if I ran the 0 wire to the other stud that had the wire leading into the starter would THIS bypass the stock "contactor"? Would the starter simply spin if I did this and not bump out onto the flywheel? I guess I'm really not sure where the jumper wire goes in this setup - from the large lug that has the battery connection to the smaller lug on the stock solenoid, is that right? The fact that this smaller lug had a sticker on it stating that it might or might not be used threw me! It siad something about some cars only having one wire and in those cases to disregard that stud. How do that work?! Maybe it's time to crawl under the Impalla and see how it's hooked up (grr). Anyone else using the LT1 Caprice starter? Did you use the remote Ford part too? Heeelp - want to fix this tomorrow if possible. Thanks!

Well, I've had Optimas and that's actually what's in the RX7. Good batteries but I HAVE had them die on me (shrug). The one in the RX7 is HUGE and from past experience I have no doubt it weighs a ton too. I also was sure it wouldn't fit in my battery box, certainly not one that was rated 1100CCA anyway This sucker is supposed to hit 95% charge in 60 minutes from dead too We'll see, for those of us on a diet this puppy could be pretty nice. It's price is right too. I may be yanking the battery in the RX7 if this one works out, that battery is way towards the nose of the car and RX7 owners kill to remove that flab. We'll see how this one works in the Z first and I'll be sure to report back if it stinks!

Okay - here'a secret place to find parts like that used http://www.thepartstrader.com/mainpage.cfm Look through the Supra, RX7, Z, and other turbo car forums. Since for your purposes you just need a BOV that will have to be fabricated into the setup anyway it won't matter much where it comes from. The Porsche valve I mentioned is cheap but it's plastic and not really very showy (ahem). Th eGreddy and other types are VERY nice, pricey, and have to be bolted onto a welded flange. Check out Greddy's WEB site to learn more and then go hunting in the forums I linked up above. Heck, I'll bet there are other OEM valves you could use too. Talons, RX7, and others came with them from the factory and those guys tend to dump stuff like that cheap so maybe..? Read up on what works and then start hunting and barganing - this is how I got one for my RX7 used...

Eh, as a one-off for production purposes it was never meant to be finished. He did it to make molds for a production run but then probably encountered much the same feedback that we're giving here - "why?!". So, it never went production and he's trying to recoup something from it. I think his wanting 10% of anyhting anyone gets from trying to produce a kit is laughable though. I'd still also like to know how he thinks anyone could cool that thing It does indeed needs bunches of work, not th eleast of which is headlights!

Been looking for one small enough to fit in my box and light enough to save weight while being able to crank the car. How does 1100CCA and about the size of a shoebox sound? Oh, and it weighs 32.5lbs It cost just a hair over $100 at Summit, about $126 w/shiping an dit was here in two days. Looking under the label I spotted some info that leads me to believe this battery is the type used in UPS and whatnot but I'm not sure. We'll see how it does, I figure it's worth a shot!

Ounce for ounce CF should be stronger than 'glass and lighter too. It's used in aviation for this reason. It also conducts electricity so be aware of that when using it around electricals. If you're interested in learning more there have been some links posted here in th epast and there's also Aircraft Spruce and Supply who will mail you a GIANT catalog filled with goodies, including CF tools and materials, for FREE. It's a must have catalog IMO They have the bagging suplies an dmachinery BTW - it's used for wings and whatnot.

While over at my friend's Mustang shop I happened to run into a guy I've known awhile but have never been able to catch up with lately. He used to restore Z's but got out of the business - he still loves them though. I've mentioned his last project here a few times - it was a 302 in a 240Z with a T5 using FOX style stock type headers! I mentioned that people are SCREAMING for motor mounts, he says he's got six pairs and a jig to make as many as he wants ! Apparently setting up the car with his mounts even lets you use the stock trans crossmember to mount the motor and the 240 trans mounts do NOT have to be cut out like they do on the SBC swap. Unfortunatly he decided to sell his 302 and switch to a ZXT motor so I cannot take any pics (sob). I do recall the shifter coming up in the stock hole just fine though! I've got his phone numbers and his e-mail, I don't dare post his phone here htough (lol). His E-mail is dogpaws240@aol.com He claims he doesn't get on the 'net much though so please be patient waiting for responses. I do NOT know what he'll sell them for nor do I have pics of the mounts. Ask him about oil pan clearance though, I understand he used a STOCK FOX Mustang pan. He's got a set of brand new ported TFS Hi-port aluminum heads for sale new in box too - these are INCREDIBLE heads and no longer made so... Go get 'em and tell him I sent ya'. Hrm, he won't know my handle though (lol). Mike/SCCA - he's looking for brakes for his 240ZXT BTW and I'll be sending him your way

Did a little checking and asking over at th eshop - they too said to stay away from the Cleveland and they do 99% Ford Mustangs all day long... Anyway, Pro 5.0 cars if they're competitive are making between 1500 and 1800HP, I think we can rule them out as a yardstick. I'm also told that they aren't using Cleveland style heads but I didn't press them on that. My guys ARE using Street Heats on some 351W combo's - "stage 3 porting and some decent cash" are what make those work. No one was sure about what NASCAR is running but everyone agreed that used NASCAR parts have TONS of life left in them but you have to KNOW what you're buying as those guys do lot's of funky things. Read the HotRod mag to learn more. Heh, this same shop is getting 600+HP to the rear wheels on Cobra modulars and have gotten 500+ out of 302s. If they tell me something works I listen (shrug)

My BOV is plumbed right to the intake - works fine and is adjustable. Porsche actually uses a pretty cheap BOV on some of their cars that costs only about $20. I'm not sure I've still got th epart number but it was the SAME valve that Vortech and others have been selling for close to $100 for years Greddy and others make VERY nice billet units too.

Scottie - late and older 8.8s are the same, it's the axles that change. My car has Cobra brakes on it from Motorsport whch might have changed the track but the housing is an 88 I believe.

Umm, why would street heats be used on a 351W? Those are designed for 302. The high port TFS were designed for bigger motors but are no longer made. There are TONS of Windsor heads out there designed to flow big air these days - you don't have to go to a Cleveland setup to get that! Some of those PRO 5.0 guys are buying bare castings and going nuts to get them to flow the way they want - think Glidden moving VALVES around. Those are RACE parts and have NO place on the street in the RPM and power ranges we want. You want a PRO 5.0 motor on the street?! NASCAR parts generally equal cubic dollar outlay and if bought new are going to be rough requiring machine work. This is a STREET CAR guys... If you're dead set on a NASCAR motor though I've found a potential source for parts. I've not YET looked at it but this place was written up in Hot Rod in the July issue. www.bidracer.com is a USED NASCAR parts place. Figure on paying just over $3K for a pair of heads and supposedly $1800 or so for a "race prepped" block. 600HP can supposedly be gotten for oh about $9K. August issue will show you how to convert that dry sump motor to wet sump for additional $. The place is in North Carolina and is apparently stacked to the ceilings with NASCAR parts including exhaust and body parts Pickup the HotRod issue on the newstand and check it out. I still see NO real good reason to do a 351C for the street but suit yourself, it could certainly be done.

Umm, if you've already got th emotor then you don't need us to measure it for you All of th e351W that I'm aware of are about the same. I THINK there might have been a deck height change way back when and I know SVO sells some with taller heights but if this is out of a Bronco it will measure the same as mine. What exactly do you need measured?

Jamie - T56 for the Ford motors can be had for about $1700. If a six speed floats your boat it's worth considering. Had I known that I might be doing a Ford swap right now but when I started the T56 for Ford were over $2K - my friends now get them for a good bit less (sigh). I could've built a 351W fo rwhat I spent on the 383 but I still like th efact that the SBC is so well documented. I'd have been the one documenting the 351W if I'd done it. There's some appeal to that though, maybe a second Z? The woman would kill me if I bring home another car though. And no, there will be no LT1 in my Mustang. The 351W EFI with a blower in there now will work just fine and it's already paid for [ July 01, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

The JTR "kit" puts the motor back as far as it can go. In my case I can still see soem of the bellhousing bolts and have a little room to go further if I wished but I have chosen not to - it's less than 2 inches I'd say. I know I didn't use up all of the "slot" on my crossmember so I'm not sure why it didn't end up further back. (shrug). My driveshaft dimensions are about the same as everyone else's though so it's certainly not further forward than normal. My site has some pics that should help you see just how far back it is and I can take more if that's desired. (shrug) If I had used a regualr HEI I'd have been right against the firewall I'm pretty sure - I'm using a small cap Accel distributor with magnetic pickup etc. You don't have to buy the mounts from JTR (I did though). The book from JTR (a MUST have!) gives the dimensions for everything. The only part they aren't clear about is th eNeapco adapter that's used for th edriveshaft connection to the R200 rear - and we all know that number. Everything else they tell you aboout can be sourced anywhere you wish. When done the car balances well and if you use enough aluminum parts is about the same weight as before the swap. MSA's new mounts may also put the engine all the way back. There's NO advantage to trying to figure this part of the swap out yourself unless it's a motor other than a SBC - it won't end up further back. P.S. Forget the Nissan T5. Even a T5 made for a V8 is somewhat fragile (ask a Ford guy) and the Nissan trannies don't benefit from many of the improvements the V8 ones do. [ June 30, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

OMG! They went for $424 for th ePAIR! Bare but still - I thnik these were th eGM race heads - yes? 18degree heads?! Wow, cheap sale. Scottie, they won't fit a GN will they?