BLKMGK

Heh, spin more?

16X7.5 wheels - backspace of 5 7/8ths right? 7.5 minus 5.875 = 1.625 from center towards the outer side, hence a plus size that brings the wheel in towards the strut. From memory converting this to centimeters (be gentle - 25.4 centimeters per inch?) that's 41.275 so about a +40. DiscountTire's page still crashes my browser but the Konig 5.0 wheels fit my car well. I BELIEVE that +20 is what fit in the back of my car best - remember these are 17's though. I'm going to use a 5/16ths spacer and mine are 8inch wide wheels. Your wheels are a 1/4inch shallower per side. I figure my backspacing should've been about 4.8inches or so. Even subtracting a 1/4inch your's are coming out as being about an inch deeper towards the strut but DO double check me. I'm not sure how wheel diameter plays into this but I don't have a good feeling here. If you run a spacer that will bring it out but also bring the edge of the wheel more towards the wheel lip. Do you have longer studs? At the very least I think you'll need coil-overs if they fit at all. These seem to be like they may be too deep in towards the strut, hopefully someone else can check my math or speak from experience here. Hope I've not just confused the situation more

It would seem to me that not only is it a slight amount of metal but that it's also in pretty close to the hub relatively speaking. In order for that little bit of weight to become an issue that hub would have to be really humming! Extrapolate out what the rim speed would be and wowza I don't think this is much different than drilling the hub flanges themselves which several of us have done, including myself. Mine's not on the road yet but others have made their maiden journies with no problems that I'm aware of. Can anyone comment?

I thought some folks were already looking at the 4.6 - yes? This motor has a slightly taller deck I think but not much else different. Friend considered one of the 5.4's for his Cobra butdecided it was too much work. The 5.4's are starting to show up in the yards already...

Okay, back to the question at hand... NOS - already ready to go but $30-45 a pop to refill, not there all the time. Might be able to sell this setup for $400 maybe? Blower - as much or more power, there all the time, noisy, likely needs custom brackets, costs $1300 plus possibly a carb unless this is an injected motor. May or may not come with an intercooler so boost will have to be kept low or an intercooler sourced - this is why I've been so keen on what the turbo guys are finding out with their NPRs BTW Don't get me wrong guys, I LOVE blowers and have had two of them plus a set of turbos on my Mustang. The feeling when boost comes on is awesome! I'm also considering one for the Z But the P600 is the lower end blower ATI makes - might be used?, at that price it probably doesn't have an intercooler, may require brackets to be built, and if this is a carb tuning it will be painful as well as possibly require a reworked carb. I've spoken to a Mustang guy who had a high dollar ATI blow-through carb setup. He had a worked carb built for it. I was thinking about my Z and love of blowwers when I pulled him aside and asked about it. His response was that it worked well but that he hated the carb tuning and that EFI would've run MUCH better. The B&M is a different animal - it's draw through and IMHO probably easier to tune with a carb. To each his own, I want a blower but will probably start with NOS (maybe) and my carb. Blower will be done AFTER EFI and ONLY if it's not fast enough. (shrug) P.S. -> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=591943568&r=0&t=0

Hrm, Badger pistons are used in stock rebuilds - as in bone stock. Still, a 350 is a 350 and it's replacing a 305 that's wheezing right? Try to get it cheap and if it makes 200HP you're probably ahead. If it needs an intake pick one up, maybe even off of E-Bay. I wouldn't expect this puppy to move mountains, seriously, but it will move your Z at least as well as what you've got and if you can get it for $500 or so I'd think that you'd be ahead of the game. What's a freshly bored block and crank worth? For that matter there's nothing stopping you from tearing into it and slapping in some higher performance parts before you drop it in is there? Well, okay maybe budget I still think that for a decent price it puts you ahead. A GM rebuild costs what, over a grand?

Well, I know that I saw a unit just like mine in a race car that runs circle track here. It had NO rubber at all, they just laid that puppy on the steel and let it eat - I was shocked. Apparently the radiator doesn't have problems with this in their car and I even noted it was sitting on an edge. However I also noted that they trash radiators fairly often in accidents so maybe it never runs long enough to get torn up. They know how to TIG too But some of the S10 mounts from GM that JTR recommends. In my case they ONLY fit the top and not over the tanks but they would probably fit the GM OEM unit well. They are high quality silicone and less than $7 apiece so certainly worth the expense. The OEM GM radiator is supposedly like $180 from some of the online places. If my car were a daily driver and I was concerned about the all aluminum units the GM radiator is exactly what I'd go for. I'd sooner eat worms than pay nearly $400 for a copperbrass unit.

Well, that's EXACTLY what I'd like to do. Unfortunatly every time I've thought I've had a yoke lined up it's fallen through. Someone promised me a cro-moly race unit, never came through. Someone else had one lined up for me through a friend - fell through. I hesitate to goto the dealer as I'm sure that if I do that it'll sting bad. I'll look a little harder but so far I've not been real successful (sigh). Since the TH400 yoke is supposed to be the same you'd think they'd nearly fall out of trees! Even a Junkyarddog.com search came up empty which REALLY surprised me! I DID finally measure today though. Flange to back of trans was 23.5 inches. Adapter U-joint center to back of trans was 22.5 inches. Looks like I'm probably pretty close to what others have IMO.

Note that the plastic box MUST be NHRA accepted. That Moroso blue box didn't have an NHRA label on it a couple of years ago when I first looked into this - is it NOW? I've seen mention that it's "certified" once or twice but the Jeg's catalog I've got doesn't mention if it's certified or not. IF it is it's one of a very few IMO - most of the marine stuff out there and the Mr. Gasket stuff don't qualify. They aren't saying any sealed plastic box will work - it must be able to survive an impact too. A bulkhead can be run, I've seen that done. Ugly and a PITA but I guess it satisfies the rules on hatchback cars. Lot's of the other boxes out there can be used if you've got a trunk, I don't think it even has to be in anything sealed in that case. Bottom line is you've got to have something to protect it from clocking you in the head on impact and from exploding acid all over you if it blows. I'm bolting my aluminum box down with BIG washers to distribute the load as best I can. I just hope the holdowns are up to the task in case of a collision! P.S. Bought the Flaming River cutoff. It's a BIG mother! Looked at a Moroso unit today too - tiny in comparison but I think it was a 20amp model The high amp Moroso unit might be a better one than the Flaming switch (lol). However I happen to have a hole next to my plate from an old alarm system that should allow me to run this pig. Don't go with a cheap 20amp switch like the bottom line Moroso unit. Good cooling fans can draw 30amps by themselves...

Aw shoot, and I was getting excited about the 11inch solid rear rotors I'm going to be running. Do you know how much the rotors cost over the counter? Are they vented?

Heh, which Mike - there are several here. You'll want to check the backspacing on that wheel too. You can play with spacers but the stock studs aren't very long. This was a nightmare for me but with some work it came out alright. The measurements I made for the back of my car should be applicable to you I believe and are in another thread. You might want to try test fitting some Mustang 4lug wheels from a friend if that will fit and is a backspacing close to what these are... Good luck, I know your pain.

I used to hit the lot's LATE at night to check out cars. Nowadays they think you're there to steal them (sigh). for my first and probably ONLY new car I went through a buyer's service. I knew EXACTLY what options I wanted and exactly what it would cost before walking in the door. I paid cash too which really shocked them! They actually had th eballs to ask me where I got th emoney and to warn me it would be frozen in my account as soon as I handed over the check. It wasn't, I checked I too knew a salesguy once. It really is cutthroat and if he wasn't making quota he really sweated. I'd hate to be in that business at all, even the mechanics around here are getting hosed working for the dealers. I'll stick to used thanks but that WRX STI coming out sure is tempting!

Looks liek one of th erear studs is going to be replaced anyway. Thread got damaged and it was loose enough to pop out. Replacing rear studs would be cake but it's the FRONT ones that stick out too far. After the way this stud got mangled I may not go with tuner nuts since some of th eones I've seen appear to be aluminum. Added 5/16ths spacers up front, that helped. Will add them in back too. I've dropped the rear and front now but am running out of adjustment on the front springs. I think I'll go up slightly in back and leave it alone now. Edge of the fender from the gorund is about 25.5 inches or 26inches. How does this measure up with everyone else's? Putting in rear driveshafts tomorrow and trying to meaure for the transmission driveshaft. Will check ground clearance on the oil pan too (ahem).

I've not yet ordered mine. I currently don't have a yoke either. Looking at places like Denny's Driveshaft they seem to want a measurement with a yoke. Are you guys finding that the shops will take a measurement from the back of the trans instead and provide a yoke with the shaft? This step is one of the next ones for me

How much does it cost compared to the OEM GM radiator? Aluminum in and of itself isn't a big deal, the OEMs use it all the time now. Aluminum side tanks MIGHT be an issue but if it's mounted well you should be fine IMO. Figure the OEM and racing aluminum radiators go for about $180 or so. What will you be doing for a fan?

Okay, first of all I'm a BIG lover of blowers and of ATI blowers in particular Forced inudction rox! However, $1300 is some cash and that blower is one of ATI's lower end units. For that price does it include an intercooler? Is it new or has ATO recently rebuilt it? Will the brackets and pullies that come with it fit your engine bay? How much can you recoup selling your NOS setup? Unless that sucker darn near drops in place, and I doubt it will, then I'd be hesitant. I'm not sure that's a steal if you're going to have to fab everything up to make it fit. Can your fuel system handle the blower? Are you EFI or are you running a carb? If carb then I'd be REAL hesitant as you'll be spending money to modify that too! On the other hand the NOS setup is pretty much done it sounds like. Sure, it costs bux to fill but if your motor is decent you shouldn't really need to run it much anyway right? IT doesn't advertise itself like the blower WILL either. Much as I like blowers I'm not sure this is something I'd jump on with both feet in a big hurry. Make sure you know th ereal WHOLE cost before doing it. IF you DO do the blower though please take lot's of pics and tell us what's involved

FWIW - Badger pistons in that sucker are probably very run of the mill cast units. I'd not rev that puppy to high! IF you've got a 305 now and are simply looking to upgrade and can get it cheap I'd go for it but don't expect it to wear a cape

Owen, you migth want to rethink the Dunk without a serious resonator... -> http://www.240sx.org/links/product-review/exhaust/mufflers/keng.htm I'm starting to shop mufflers now myself. Aside from the $200 apiece price plus cost of hangers and resonator it sounds (nyuk nyuk) like his puppy is just plain nasty loud on a smaller car... Owen, you any closer to firing that sucker up? I'd love to be proven wrong

Heh, I hav one of those little sandblaster things hooked to my air compressor made just for plugs. I've not yet used it but I'm confident it'll work Cheap too! The Mustang's tune is off due to a missing O2 sensor so it fouls plugs in minutes. Yes, it doesn't take much to ruin the plug! Getting the carbon off will likely fix you right up...

ROTFL! I lov eit when I hit the GM dealer and they ask me "what year?". I roll my eyes and say something like "let's call it a 94 Firebird this time". When they give me a look I ask them if they have listings for a '72 Datsun Z with a 383 stroker and a 6speed. That's good for a giggle! When I tried to get valve cover gaskets Manny, Moe, and Smoking Crack couldn't look up a FelPro part number! They had to have a year, make, model. I told them it was a SBC V8 and the kid had to ask their "engine expert". The same "expert" that was going on and on with another employee about cam degreeing and how it was used to get max compression (ahem). Yup, he brought me CORK gaskets when I told him I wanted the reusable ones. He finally brought me a rubber FelPro set but I suspect they're NOT exactly what I wanted - I'll live. Gone are the days when the guy behind the counter knew much about turning wrenches. Thankfully for my alternator bracket a friend knew a good counterguy and sort of what I needed. I understand it's a $15 aluminum bracket from a mid-80's 'Vette. If it works well with my SWP I'll let everyone know about it so they don't suffer as I have.. Fun 'n Games!

I've seendrag guys going to tubular stuff all over the place in the Mustang word. Adjustability is always nice but the weight savings is their big draw. I don't know that we save nearly what they do with tubular stuff but every little bit helps if you're serious and can afford it. (shrug) I DO think big(ger) brakes are a must on these cars. Not everyone needs giant 12inch rotors but the Toy 4piston vented stuff makes sense to me, the solid rotor setup is an upgrade too. I know that at least one of us gets by with stock stuff and upgraded friction material but when you're facing a safety fence @118mph or worse a wall in the shutdown area (shiver) it's nice to know you've got good brakes! One of the tracks here has a wall of stone (MIR), another (75/80) has a wooden fencecornfieldfenceswimming pool in someone's back yard... A few cars have taken the NesTea plunge into the pool I'm told - no thanks! Then there's the crap track nearest me (1/8th mile) who's bystander protection from burnout debris in the water box was a blue tarp (last I was there) and NO tech inspect on my twin turbo V8 car. Hrm... I realize the "road race" stuff is probably bigger than what's strictly needed for a track car but dual purpose is always nice. I've personally never understood track only cars myself. To each his own I guess!

There are some chemicals that are pretty hazardous that are used in making drugs. They don't actually GO into the drugs but are part of the process. I read up on this at work one day while bored but my memory has faded, was a pretty interesting and detailed report though Really interesting when a spark goes the wrong place and a drug lab goes BOOM! Unless you were looking for 50gal drums I'm surprised they were so reluctant. Maybe they thought you were small time?

Heh, if this goes like the SDS and CV adapter deals you'll be flooded with orders Nice to see a group step up like this! Don't forget ZCar.com if this looks like it's going to make you a little cash - those guys would probably like this too (shrug)

I've got SCCA's front brakes and soon the rears (custom made mind you). Mikelly also has the fronts. SCCA's price for the front is decent and I don't think there's piles of profit built into it. Brembo or Coleman rotors and billet Outlaw calipers. The pair of calipers weigh about what a single Toyota 4X4 caliper weighs I'd bet. Rotors are BEEFY race pieces and SCCA actually races his stuff too BTW. Customer service has been very good and as my mind has changed a dozen times SCCA has continued to take care of me and answer my dozens of questions. The setup for the rear is one-off at this point but others will probably want it. SCCA has taken on the task of building the protoype on his own without piles of orders waiting in the wings. He does this work because he apparently enjoys it and yeah, he makes a buck or two. Call up ArizonaZ and try to buy oh say... a glass bumper. Don't hold the phone too close to your ear though as he's likely to bite it off. A grand minimum sale or he's not interested in talking. He's quite grouchy when I've called and had little patience. I've never tried to buy brakes from him but when I was looking for shocks the Koni's he had looked REALLY good - until others clued me in they were oil shocks and not gas! Can you say OLD stock? I value customer service, I have to since I've got tons to learn about Zs. Mike and SCCA answer questions, spend time in the "community" and are willing to improve their products based on suggestions or inquiries. I've never gotten that far with ArizonaZ and while their WEB site has some neat stuff most of it isn't obtainable even if you ask. I won't EVER be buying anything from him based on the experiences I've had and on those of others. Purchase from him if you'd like, the hardware may indeed be good, but you've been warned as to what sort of service he's provided to others who have spoken to him.

Okay - tonight I put the rear down on the ground. http://216.254.117.47/development/testweb.nsf/4691 e0edd8a01bd6852569ae0075e9c4/d1c792b334806f0385256a5e000736f3?OpenDocument (luv those Domino URLs) With a rotor on the rear it does NOT touch! Can't squeeze my pinky past either but... That's on the ground mind you. Looks a little 4WD but not too bad. I actually went out to Discount last night to pull up their wheel specs and their site crashed my browser when I tried to look at the Konig wheels. Tonight I got 404 trying to look and then it crashed on the 4th try so.. I've got th eoffsets I ordered pposted somewhere - I will better document this for everyone including taking actual measurements! I think a 1/4inch spacer will be best for the rear. I believe it WILL fit fine in the wheelwell. Those are Nitto 245/45/17 drag radials so other tires might fit better or worse. The rear measurements should apply to all 240's so far as I know. Don't think this would've worked without coilovers. I tried lifting a 255/50/17 tire (Bridgestone RE730 from an Impalla SS) bare into the wheelwell, NO WAY! I think it's just too fat so this is probably as big as you can get. If someone has gone fatter it's got to be super tight and really stiff! BTW - to do this I took a sawzall to the tops of the lugnuts. I wasn't going to use them anyway but I did pay $40 for that and valve stems - grr! Hated to do it but I wasn't comfortable hacking the studs wihout knowing what I'd need for spacers. I WILL be going to an open ended nut and I'm seriosuly considering leaving the studs alone. They DO stick out slightly past the wheel (*ahem*) but it's not really noticable. I probably could put in new studs but that would require a ton of dissassmbly and I am not really wanting to do that after just getting it all together! Will get the front on the ground tomorrow and try to hunt up some "tuner" lugnuts for the rice look. I think Summit sells them When all four wheels are on the ground I can best check out the rear gap - I think it'll be okay. Lowering it would mean that the spring would rattle around whenever the wheel unloaded as it's just barely taught now without weight. Wouldn't that be bad? Coil-overs are all new to me so be gentle... P.S. Oh, I have done Notes development a good bit but never got deep into script (well okay - I've got some nasty active code scripts but that doesn't count, you could do a Notes "virus" easily!). Notes development has sort of passed me by while I've pursued other avenues lately. I'm certified R3, R4 (admin and development but th eupper level script cert) and did TONS of work in R2. The server is R5.04 if memory serves and yes it's got filters to prevent monkey business with my SAM._ file The password would take weeks to crack without a cluster anyway. I mostly only do security reviews on Notes stuff these days and spend most of my days doing INFOSEC stuff on NT systems. That server isn't 100% locked down but I'd be surprised if anyone could get far hacking it - they try though. I'll tighten it when I've got time - I'm better at breaking than fixing anyway. I'll have SameTime up before too long on another box, not had any luck getting it on that box but I may try again. I need a another machine (I've got 7 now) to run some IDS stuff anyway so we'll see I've got Notes running to keep myself sharp and because it's an easy platform to develop on IMO. I don't get to do much development at work now and VERY little WEB stuff (sigh) What you see there is dirt simple code to get by that the woman and I have built. She's actually done a bunch of work on it for funsies and is certified as well. Feel free to make suggestions, I'm also willing to share any code on there that someone might want or perhaps hand out a Notes ID if you want to play on it. If you're interested in the SameTime secure chat stuff lemme' know offline and I'll be happy to hand out accounts when it's finally up. Don't think I've got the 2.0 code yet (shrug). P.P.S. Really sorry to ramble on guys, not exactly Z stuff I know but Notes is really cool. Check out my Guestbook - DIRT simple to build and I can do some really neato' stuff like workflow, digital sigs, encryption etc. Notes was PKI'ed LONG before other companies got a clue... [ May 31, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]