2many280s

I'm also moving into a house with only a 1 car garage. Its wider and longer than a usual 1 car, but a few feet short of being big enough for 2 cars. But that does give extra room for compressor and tools while still giving some room to actually work on the car =) Also thinking about getting one of these... http://www.kwiklift.com/features-all.htm Seems just about perfect for what I need and portable too =)

Gotta admit... He's not trying to polish a turd, he's about as honest as someone can be Surprised it sold for that much though hehe

I just love how they waited till 8000rpm to hit the nitrous in the movie.... I have a feeling if they really did that, several of the camera crew would have been killed by the shrapnel

My brother is building one just like that (Except not turbo). Its going to be just like the one from Gone in 60 seconds... a fake but close enough to fool most people

Bolt for bolt, the engines are very VERY similar. Easiest way for a turbo 240/260/280z is to find a rusted or wrecked 280zx turbo with a good engine and just swap it all over. It will bolt right in, as a matter of fact, I think it will even bolt right up to the older tranny although the later 5-speed from the zx donor car would be a better choice. Its all been done several times and well documented on this site.

My bro did the same thing when he got his plasma cutter, and then again after he found a Henrob torch for $100 (Regularly $399ish) I even like playing with that thing though =) You can weld AND cut with it. He has a few Dr. Pepper cans he welded together with it while he was practicing =)

As you can probably tell by my first post =) Thats the direction I'm leaning anyway since my Z31 could stand to have the motor trashed anyway. It leaks every fluid except coolant and is sorely lacking in testicular fortitude for such a nice looking car =) I've noticed from searching, there were a few problems with crossmember locations and hood clearance for the Z31... Hood clearance isn't a problem since I can get my bro to custom make me a cowl hood, but I don't remember seeing any posts with a solution to the other problems and the posts with pics are no longer available =( Anyone have any more info on that? Or other problems that I may run into so I can get started on planning how to solve them =)

A friend of mine has a built 388/700R4 that I can get CHEAP and I've been thinking about swapping it into one of my cars. I have an 83 280zx or an 86 300ZX 2+2 that either would be prime candidates for the swap. I'm leaning more towards the Z31 since its a bigger, more comfy car and that engine is seriously mean (Don't have the full specs right now, but it grenaded the rear end in the 89 RS Camaro that its in now.) It might need some slight de-tuning to get down to something that won't eat drivetrains. I've been searching, but there isn't much info on the Z31 swap that is still available so it would definately be a project. I have access to all tools needed, plasma cutter/welders etc. And my bro said he would help (He's been doing body work fiberglass and custom metal fabrication for as long as I can remember and even done a few V8 swaps in other cars) And let me use his 40x40 shop to do it in. So my question is, if you had the choice knowing that either is possible, wich would you do? The well documented early Z swap? Or go where few have gone before and do the Z31? Or could this motor be too beefy for either?

That drug test one is hilarious =)

hahaha A couple of those, a fake intercooler hiding behind a horribly oversized body kit, a wing that would make a top fuel dragster jealous, and an exhaust tip with more displacement than the engine... A ricers dream come true =)

I've been driving a stock 83 5-speed lately, and driving it like I stole it (rarely less than 85 on the highway and not babying in town either)and still getting 25-27mpg. They are much more fuel efficient than the later V6 models.

Just hunted down the bird video, and it happens to be the same car =) http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/1585FinalBird.mpeg

I saw another commercial once, where a bird flies by and the hood of the car swings up and smacks the feathers off of it. Of course, digital just like the cat =)

Some of the rice mods I see every day make me laugh so hard I almost have to pull over. BUT... Around my area, some of these guys are getting smart. Starting to see a lot of engine swaps, custom fabricated turbo conversions on bone stock looking cars, real sleepers. Sure, its still a 4-door grocery getter, but with a nice big turbo they have a pretty good chance of being first in line at the grocery store =) Those kind of cars aren't what I would call common yet, still many more with 500lbs of fiberglass, a fart pipe, and an engine with the displacement of a coke bottle. But the fast ones that don't look fast are starting to show up more often. Guess all the ragging these guys get from being all show and no go is making some go back to the drawing board for a new all go and no show design =)

Guess I will see ya there, just the thought of that made me laugh =)

I bought a car that was doing that once, it was an 81 turbo though and turned out to be just the hose that connects the j-pipe to the turbo was missing. I would check for vaccuum leaks around the AFM since that would cause the same problem on an N/A by allowing a lot of un-metered air in. The owner of that car, before I bought it, used a spray bottle jammed into a vaccuum hose on the intake to show me it would run. One squirt with the spray bottle and the engine would start and run sucking the rest of the gas out of the bottle itself =) With all of the air coming in behind the AFM, the computer wasn't seeing any air, and wasn't running the injectors wich is why the spray bottle on the intake trick worked.

Just for info for anyone else having problems getting a title in Tx. Contact Sonny Joslin at http://www.expresscartitle.com. I got a very fast and friendly response and only $100 for the service. WAY cheaper than trying to get a bonded title wich was going to cost me almost $600 just for the surety bond.

I'm having the same problem right now with an 86 Z31 in Texas also that was originally bought from a police auction. The guy I was buying it from had to request a title in his name first according to the tax office wich I paid for and then sign it over to me.... well a few weeks later he should have had the title, so I call... no answer. Called the other number I had for him, no answer. Checked the address on the first registration that I paid for and its empty. so He's long gone. I am thinking about checking with one of the title websites, the first one I checked said that they could do it for $100 on the website but didn't respond to an email. Thinking about checking with the one for $250 next, thats still easier than dealing with all the surety bonds and paperwork and crap for the bonded title process and would probably end up costing around the same price but with less work from me

If I remember right, the F54 block was used in both the turbo and NA models, just the pistons changed (Flat for the NA and dished for the turbo) The higher compression of the flat piston would keep you from being able to add as much boost without detonation as you could with the dished, but the compression of those engines was still low enough that you could probably get away with 7-8 Psi, but more might be asking for trouble. Also switching to a 2mm headgasket will lower compression a little, and I think the P90 head would also help to lower it a bit more but I may be wrong on that one, its been a while since I researched that subject =) Just never got around to actually trying it.

Old thread, I know. But the "Old Tech Vs New Tech" arguments reminded me of an article in Turbo Magazine about an almost 4000hp drag Focus.... Guess what they did with the actual focus motor? In the dumpster =) They made that 4khp with a 2300 4cyl from a Pinto because it was a stronger motor to start with. Thats also with MASSIVE forced induction =) So it doesn't apply much to the original question though.

I just bought an 86 300zx that was doing almost the same thing you just described. It would idle and run perfectly fine, had plenty of power when it was running... but would foul the plugs out at random times while going down the road and it turned out to be the Crank angle sensor in the bottom of the distributor giving an intermittent signal and causing the computer to just go nuts sometimes. New dist was $400 from Courtesy Nissan, Used dist were normally in the $99 to $100 range and could have the same problem... but I bought a used one anyway, took the old one out and took it apart, took the sensor out and cleaned it as best I could and cleaned the electrical connector on the bottom, plugged it back in and haven't had a problem since then but I have only put about 60 miles on the car since then so I can't say for sure if that fixed it or not, but before it wouldn't make it 10 miles without flooding out.