attworth

I am planning to use wheels similar in style and offset as the orange/red car, but with an MSA Type II Kit. I've been throwing around the idea of using just and airdam and no bumper, but I'm not sure.

I was hoping somebody may have an S130 with the MSA type II kit installed. I'm wanting to run a wheel/tire setup similar to this car,http://media.motortopia.com/files/11823/vehicle/47fabc72278ec/6TH_Gear_204.jpg , but I'm not sure how it'll look with the MSA. I've only ever seen positive offset wheels or stockers with it. Thanks much.

My car has reciprocating ball steering. It's very worn, and extremely expensive to replace. I've been gathering information, but am still a bit confused. I was wondering what all is involved in swapping to the more economical rack and pinion setup. It seems that all of the components as well as the front crossmember will need to be replaced. Is this true? Anything else need to be swapped? Obviously there's no Idler arm, so that I assume, just gets unbolted from the car. From what I recall, the S130 only came with power rack and pinion. I don't really care if I've got power. Is there a way to eliminate the power steering? Is that as simple as not using the power steering pump and lines? Thanks all! Tony

Thank you Brad-man. Sorry for all the confusion. I'll be sure to post pictures when I finally get it started and done.

mystery solved. They're from and on an Acuta NSX. Oops

Anybody know anything about these headlamps? Kinda interesting.

Itll be a closed deal as soon as my tax refund comes in. Wife approved and all! Very stoked. Unfortunately the timing belt service is coming up but no biggie.

Was looking through pictures and had a few more questions. Is this how this is supposed to look? I seem to remember my 88T's POV being fully closed. The car was not running when I took this picture, but it looked the same when running. Could it be faulty, and maybe that's why it pops open when first starting the car? Could also be leaking off vacuum? This doesn't look good. Looks fairly clean in there, but I assume it being broken is not good. Could it be causing any problems? (This is the AFM by the way.)

I tried posting this over at Zcar.com, but only got one or two responses, nothing definitive. I was hoping maybe you guys could help me. Here is my original message from Zcar.com I went back today to take a better look in the daylight. I also poked around, ran a compression test and tried to do a leak test of the turbo system. I brought my own battery and it didn't have any problems with starting or running well. The POP from the POV happened again at the initial startup but no other time. There was also no spark in the area like previously. I noticed some of the wiring in the area looked questionable, so I think that's where the spark came from. Still impressed by the cleanliness of the car. I did find one hole in the floor about the size of a golf ball. It's not a rust hole, but is a puncture, like somebody ran over something they shouldn't have. There was surface rust in the spare tire hold, but nothing serious. I've checked the VIN and the car has not been claimed a total loss, nor is it currently stolen. I have yet to check the carfax, but it's high on my list. I did notice a slight "buckle" in the radiator support, but nothing else looks out of the ordinary. The bumper and fenders still look perfectly aligned. Compression test came out good. All 6 cylinders were within 2 or 3 degrees of 150. Cylinders 2 and 3 read the lowest, but I think the fact that I couldn't get the gauge in there all the way may have something to do with that. I tried to test the turbo system for leaks using this method - http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104080 I couldn't get the system to pressurize. I think the bicycle tire pump I was using didn't have enough oomph to fill the intake. I didn't want to lug a compressor over there and don't have a smaller car tire inflator type compressor. Oh well... I also got the car on the highway this time. It still pulls extremely well, but it's not boosting above 3-4psi like stated above. I noticed once the turbo is fully spooled out, something emits a high pitched squeel, almost like a pinhole in an exhaust pipe type sound. The sound is not present until the turbo is fully spooled. The turbo also seems to hesitate a bit while spooling. Worst case scenario I'm thinking the turbo may need to be replaced/rebuilt. Although I still think there could be a leak somewhere. Other issues I noted: - Speedo was reading 25 mph sitting still and went up from there - Temp gauge wasn't working - A/C does not power on (common problem from what I hear.) - Not sure if it was nearly out of gas or if the fuel gauge wasn't working, was below 1/4 but the 1/4 gauge did not read anything. - Passenger side intake manifold was leaking slightly (no biggie, at least the driver's side did not appear to be.) I'm sorry if this should be in the Z31 forum. I figured it should be here as my main questions are regarding the turbo system in this car. I appreciate any advice you folks can offer. Thanks! Tony

... I would rather not pay for it if somebody has an account or has extras from ordering more than one (3 is 34.99 whereas a single one is 29.99.) Although I don't mind if it comes down to it. A guy I work with ordered 3 when he was searching for a new truck, and bought the first truck he checked. But they've since expired.

Oops! JN1CZ14S5HX153189

Can anybody get me a carfax report for a car I'm seriously considering buying? I don't mind paying for valuable information, but figured I'd try here first.

Ah! I see my typo now. I said I'd HAD to twist... I meant to say I'd HATE to twist.. Basically, where's the recommended place to lift the car when welding in the new supports? I've seen people on here using the new parts as a lift point. What about when cutting out the old bits to prevent warpage?

I love it. It is a bit more silver than the OP was asking for though.

Check out Ford Vapor. Another member here painted his car with it a while back. Looks sweet.

Maybe I'm using the wrong term. I'm talking about the rails that connect the floor supports to the rails in the engine compartment. Mine are there but somewhat rusty and will need to be replaced.

Any pictures yet ZZZeee?

Does anybody make subframe connectors for the 79-83 cars? Bad dog only has for 70-78, and Zedd Findings doesn't make the subframe connectors, just the support rails. My car needs new subframe connectors. Would it be ok to basically fabricate those connectors by welding 3 pieces together and then welding those to the car? I assume stitch welding would be the best bet for the 3 pieces, as well as the connectors to the floor. I don't have access to a sheet metal press or anything like that. Also, when replacing these connectors, is it okay to jack the car up using either the subframe or factory pinch weld (stock jack location,)? I'd had to twist the body out of shape so much that the newly fabbed connectors wouldn't fit. Thanks for the help.

She's the practical one, I'm the bread winner. Somehow I lose more than I win though.

Haha! My wife loves SA, so I'm sure she wouldn't mind the trek in the least. It's just a matter of explaining to her that the Z needs to look better or it's not worthy enough to cart her around.

Sounds good. Look forward to seeing the pictures

I can probably drive down to SA. Or bus. Either way. Can you show me everything you have along with pricing? Thanks!

I haven't checked Jerry's place yet, but last time I talked to him, he had junked all of his S130s. The junkyards aren't as nice as he is, so I try not to go there. I will probably check out that guy in Burleson. I've been meaning to call him and see what he's got anyway. ZZZeee, can you send me some pictures of the front fenders you have? what are you prices?

That looks so smooth. Very nice work.

I'm in the market for a new hood, both front fenders, driver's side headlight bucket, and driver's side door for an 81 ZX. I'm in DFW TX, and have no interest to pay for shipping these big parts. I don't have a whole lot of money right now, so if the price doesn't fit my budget, I cannot do it - but please tell me what you have and what you want for the parts. Please do not try to sell me your dented or rusted out pieces. Mine are rusted/bondoe'd/dented beyond my desire to repair. I also need a dash board for this car. Any color/condition is fine. Here's my "wish" list. I know some of these prices are probably low, but I gotta try. Fenders - 40$ each Hood - 60$ Driver's Headlight Bucket - 15$ Driver's Door - 50$ (with internals, 30$ without) Dash board - 40$