attworth

Well, figured I might as well start one of these. I've had my car for several months, and it's finally in it's allotted space. This thing had some serious issues when I bought it (blindly, my mistake.) It's still got a LOT of issues, but those will be resolved. Here's how it looked the day I brought it home. And here's how it sits right now. Original plans were to get it streetable and drive it daily. Kept fixing things as they came up and nearly had it ready. Toyed with the idea of dumping it in favor of a cleaner car, but my wife said no, no. It has pretty bad rust, which is currently patched with fiberglass. Has a ghetto-fabulous battery tray via a welded in 1/4" thick piece of plate bent in place. All of that will be taken care of properly. This will be a long, drawn out project, as funds are in short supply. Time is not of the essence, so therefore money is no issue. Not quite set on what I'll be doing with it yet. Have some ideas, but I'll keep those close until something happens. Hope to have the drivetrain out this weekend.

Never too old man. I'm nearly 21 and no where near earning a degree - ANY degree. Still working on my associates.

I work at a CE firm. I sit on my butt all day. Our projects are few and far in between these days, and when we do have them, they go too quickly for us to do any field work. When we do field work it consists of taking pictures of screwed up concrete or pin-flags laid by utility companies.

I agree 100%.

You can have all letters in Tejas.

I checked my local dealer as well a while back and got the same answer. Courtesy Parts lists it on their site as "Expected to ship from warehouse." Which means "may or may not be available shipped from Japan."

Figured as much.

I was wondering if anybody knows of a maker of a 1.25mm 90mm+ bored head gasket? I've seen a few threads that mention removing layers of the 2mm gaskets sold, but nothing definitive on that either. Thanks.

280zx 2by2 mentioned both items so I thought I'd point the OP in the right direction.

There's a member here who sells both the g-nose and flares for a good price. Check the Vendor's section. The flares are made for earlier cars, but will fit the 280ZX as well.

Or there's always Z31 signals. They're not flush, but they're pretty thin.

I've been thinking about grafting some of these in the rear.. Not sure about the front yet.

That's what i need at work! I've only got two 21" wide-screens. I'm years behind at my house with my 36" tube tv and my 17" lcd for the computer.

For all those wanting to see a write-up, go here, as posted by Teekass. If you have an S130, see the diagram that the OP posted showing which wires go where, or check your FSM. It's really not hard. Very similar to wiring a radio or sound system, minus the negative side of things.

I just pull the connector for the fuel pump and start the car and let it idle til it runs out of gas - takes maybe 10-15 seconds. Then crank it a few times with the pedal to the floor. Should relieve most of the pressure.

That's what I was beginning to think.

I've seen the specs somewhere, I think I book-marked it. I do have a set of 240 rods I can use, or my 280 rods. I think I want to use forged pistons, although I'm not positive. I'm still in the planning stages of this build. I'll be having a head worked through (still sorting out those details,) along with a fairly mild cam. I'd like to go with the AZC pistons, (or Ross,) as they offer a little bit of an over-bore, along with the added stroke ratio. Just having a hard time deciding whether or not the extra stroke is worth using forged, or if I should just stick with a cast piston, maybe over-bored, possibly not. Now I'm rambling.

"Daht-sun" Same with anybody I talk to around me. But here in Texas we like to drawwww thangs out, reckon yall know what I mean.

Good question. It'd be a couple months, so I didn't wanna jump the gun and waste his time.

I'm trying to decide if I want to use the AZC flat-tops, or a set of standard flat-tops. The AZC pistons combined with L24 rods make for a higher rod/stroke ratio, which from my understanding is a good thing. But is it worth it? 650$ for a set of pistons, plus 1mm over-bore at the shop. I'm running through things in my head and just trying to figure out if this is what I want to do or not. I guess I really need to call the machine shop and see the price difference between a standard bore hone and an over-bore. Any thoughts? Edit: Guess I should have mentioned that if I don't use the AZC pistons, I'd be using standard bore flat-tops. Not really looking at the performance difference due to bore size, but stroke ratio value.

The biggest issue is the steering box for the reciprocating ball setup is huge. It's a hindrance for swap clearances. I know that JTR mentions it several times.

If you're talking about the big lower hose pipe, which is bolted to the front of the block, I have a spare that I could sell you. It's in pretty good shape.

That 80amp is also in between the fuse block, and ignition/acc relay

I know this is incredibly old, but does anybody have any install pics? My fusible links are on the fritz. Edit: Just to clarify, I've seen the S30 pics on Blue's site, just wondering if anybody had any pics for an S130.

Loud pipes on bikes are good. However showing off that your bike is loud by blipping the throttle at stop lights or running it to the red line on take off is a bit over-the-top. I personally ride a bike and wouldn't ride it without a loud pipe. There's too many people who don't pay attention to where I'm at.