proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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just get a little razor and trim off the excess...
so make the circle on the gasket to a square..
very easy to do.. won't hurt anything
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have you tried adjusting the AFM??
anyway.. a good source for injectors is eBay!!
i find them ALL the time
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that sound.. that sounded like a blow off valve.. and you don't have one.. is BAD..
that's the sound of the compressed air being forced back into the turbo.. which could result in stalling or even breaking the fins/blades on the compressor!!
If your POV was not plugged up you could haev prevented it...
but be careful... that forced air slamming into a closed throttle butterfly, will jump back down the intake and into the turbine... which is a no no
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hit me up on AIM : YInSaNeAsYLuM
i have TONS of pics I can send you.... like over 50 pics of specifically intercooler plumbing and turbo's
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LoL..
I will be going through Moby.. since he lives not far from me... and he is willing to build it for me! well for some $$ ofcourse !!
But how much ya looking for>?
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thanks EZ-E!
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Well after attempting to re-install the Apexi S-AFC.... and hooking up the potentiometer type TPS from the 240SX..... the Apexi S-AFC is a failure..
as I read on a BMW website, I needed to set the sensor voltage type to 01 out of 15 settings...
anyway... no matter what settings, or sensor types or voltage types or fuel increase it ran very rough and would intake backfire and detonate (sounded like popcorn)..
it would idle fine, but over 1,000 RPM it all went to hell...
Here's my conclusion....
the Apexi S-AFC will NOT work with the stock 280Z L28 electronics, nor the 280ZX stock electronics...
there has been results with a 300ZX ECU and MAF.... but our flap type AFM will not work.
I can however, convert the AFM with a BMW MAF (no flap and hotwire type sensor).. or a Z31 MAF.. but it would cost some more money...
Anyway... it was cool to see the throttle position, and O2 sensor readings, and RPM all on the same display in bright blue.. but ehh.. boring
i'm going MEGASQUIRT!!!
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Well after attempting to re-install the Apexi S-AFC.... and hooking up the potentiometer type TPS from the 240SX..... the Apexi S-AFC is a failure..
as I read on a BMW website, I needed to set the sensor voltage type to 01 out of 15 settings...
anyway... no matter what settings, or sensor types or voltage types or fuel increase it ran very rough and would intake backfire and detonate (sounded like popcorn)..
it would idle fine, but over 1,000 RPM it all went to hell...
Here's my conclusion....
the Apexi S-AFC will NOT work with the stock 280Z L28 electronics, nor the 280ZX stock electronics...
there has been results with a 300ZX ECU and MAF.... but our flap type AFM will not work.
I can however, convert the AFM with a BMW MAF (no flap and hotwire type sensor).. or a Z31 MAF.. but it would cost some more money...
Anyway... it was cool to see the throttle position, and O2 sensor readings, and RPM all on the same display in bright blue.. but ehh.. boring
i'm going MEGASQUIRT!!!
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you can buy any size JWT pop charger...
if you need to you can use a silicone reducer.. http://www.hightempsilicone.com has plenty of them...
good luck
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how did you hook up the 240SX pig-tail wires??
There was a red wire a black wire and a white/grey wire ??
Red power? Black ground? and white/grey the TPS poten. signal???
ALso.. where did you source a 5v source for the potentiometer from?
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Looks like it's cheaper than MSA too... that website has it for $199 compared to $229.95
!!------------------------------------
Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator, Non Turbo Z/ZX Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator, Non Turbo Z/ZX
Code: 11-3073
Price: $229.95
Quantity in Basket: None
The newest technology to unlock hidden power for your fuel-injected Non Turbo Z & ZX! This rising rate regulator works along with the stock regulator, and responds to your car's need for more fuel only when conditions call for it. When you want more power, the regulator increases fuel pressure. Under normal driving conditions, lower pressure is maintained for best mileage. We have received reports of 15-20 horsepower gains!
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the RRFPR MSA sells is from Corkey Bell.. the guy who wrote that amazing Turbocharger and Forced Induction book...
look it up under Bell Enterprises.. or Bell Engineering or something..
you can find the SAME unit for much cheaper than MSA..
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Type in Mandrel Bends...
they have tons of U-Bends with diff. sizes.. and radius' (radii?)
LoL.. anyway.. relatively cheap prices.. and very good reputation!
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http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=547816&t=547505#reply_547816
Read that thread above.. very helpful
no.. an adjustable fuel pressure regulator... allows you to adjust the amount of fuel pressure (max for example) so.. you can adjust it to run up to 60psi at full throttle or what not...
a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator or (FMU - Fuel Managment Unit) -
[same thing just different names].. increases the fuel pressure in relation to the boost pressure...
so you can buy an RRFPR or FMU with a ratio like 12 :1 ... which means for every pound of boost (psi) the fuel pressure goes up 12psi...
an RRFPR or FMU is ideal for a turbo/boosted application...
ADFPR is great for standlone FI... or N/A cars.. or turbo cars with low boost.
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looks like you can change ur signature now
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awsome!!
Can you tell a difference in the performance?? turned up the boost yet?
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ehh.. you guys are right.. read the info wrong...
but nifty charts right?? *sigh*
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This is a 56 and .70 trim.. relatively close to yours...
* 6500 rpm red line points for this compressor at all three level of boost are in the 72% to 79% efficiency region.
* 3250 rpm "knee" points for this compressor at all three level of boost are below the 65% efficiency region.
* When accelerating towards redline, the efficiency increases towards the maximum 79% area, thus performance is best full out.
* This compressor would certainly work better with more engine displacement as the horizontal lines would be more to the right
* It should be obvious that this compressor can handle even more boost and remain very efficient above the 20psi line. "It can grow with your need for more speed"
* Goldilocks says good for a turbo stroker.
This is a 50 trim turbo....
* 6500 rpm red line points for this compressor at all three level of boost are in the 75% +/- 1% efficiency region.
* 3250 rpm "knee" points for this compressor at all three level of boost are in the 74% +/- 1% efficiency region.
* When accelerating towards redline, the efficiency passes through the maximum 78% area, thus performance is ideal during this period.
* It should be obvious that this compressor can handle even more boost and remain very efficient above the 20psi line. "It can grow with your need for more speed"
* This compressor will give great performance compared to the stock T3-60.
* Goldilocks says "just right"
This means that a 50 trim T04e would be IDEAL.. and since yours is .48 that is very close..
So it should be "just right"
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sent ya an e-mail
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well.. first off.. how much is it?
Looks like a T4 compressor housing.. so a T3/T04
Also looks like it's not water-cooled but that doesn't matter anyway.. it would definatly be an increase from stock.. but what are you looking for??
the .70 a/r trim isn't the most efficient for your Z... but unless your building alot of horsepower.. i wouldn't worry about it
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This is the wiring diagram I used for the Apexi S-AFC... everything ran.. um.. OK..
the sensor monitor settings showed an accurate display of the RPMS as well as the AFM voltage... power.. ground etc.
NO Tach adapter needed!
So it works.. but.. one problem...
no matter what settings I used... i had extreme lean spikes.. and intake backfire's over 1,200 RPM.
I spent a good hour tuning and adjusting the increments... adding more fuel.. decreasing etc. I went through every possible setting I could change, without much luck.
I noticed that it diffenatly works... like if I chose -10% at 1,000RPM it basically takes away 10% of the fuel from the baseline fuel map. So the more i dropped it down, the closer it got to dying.. and a lower RPM.
So after a weeks long research.. and a few hours in the garage.. wiring it (took 15 minutes) and trying to tune it.. not much luck...
the Apexi simply doesn't like our Flap AFM.. even with the FLAP settings.. i also changed from hot wire sensor settings and that Karm. setting...
No luck...
SO the conlusion is... it works.. yes.. not very well.. and causes massive lean spikes at idle.. causing intake back-fires..
Could be a tuning fault from myself.. but I tell ya I went through every setting I possibly could.. so I removed the S-AFC and I am back to normal ECU.. or could of been a bad connection.. but i soldered everything on
Thanks for all of your help
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Okay.. finally figured it out for everyone.. and myself.. LoL
Here is a diagram of what wires should be tapped into for the Apexi S-AFC!
Does it work yet? Should work.. just haven't had time to hook it all up yet.. but I traced and researched every wire..
My only problem now is figuring out if the Apexi S-AFC will accept the stock RPM signal.. maybe a tachometer converter may be on it's way
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KY is a water based lubricant.. LoL..
water.. and metal equalls.. well you can figure that out...
Vasoline and grease will work fine
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I am in the process of building up a turbo for an non turbo engine right now..
It has taken me a few months of building and preparing everything.. and carefully finding cheap and reliable parts.. and dozens of hours online researching..
so far with my 1978 280Z with the N/A N47 head and block.. I have gathered
*Turbo Exhuast Manifold
*T3 water-cooled turbo from a Z31 300ZX turbo
*Oil Lines from a 280ZXT which bolt right onto a 280Z or 240Z using brake line brackets
*Oil Tee to tee off the oil route from the oil pressure senderr
*Toyota Supra Turbo 440cc fuel inectors
*P.allnet 11mm o-ring fuel rail (coming in next week whoohoo!)
*DSM BOV
*NPR large Front Mount Intercooler
*Turbo AFM
*60mm TB with pig-tail potentiometer wires from a 240SX
*60mm TB spacer kit from P.allnet (also coming in next week whoohoo!)
*2.5" Mild Steel intercooler piping (2 u-bends, 1 90 bend, 1ft straight pipe)
*Silicone couplers and connectors ( (1) 2.5"-2" reducer, (5) 2.5" couplers )
*Intake/Exhuast manifold gasket
*Turbo oil inlet/outlet gaskets
*Turbo manifold to turbo gasket
*Turbo fittings for the watercooled center section and lines
*Apexi S-AFC for piggy back fuel control
*Oil pan.. I will use the N/A and punch a hole, thread a bung, and seal it properly
*N/A electronics and N/A AFM electronics on that Turbo AFM
*Boost gauge and lines
I think that's it.. LoL.. I am very very close just need some time now..
For the oil pan situation.. you can use a N/A pan with N/A sump and N/A oil pump and you will be fine...
you can't however use an turbo pan with an N/A sump.. so you need an turbo pan and turbo sump..
but the oil pan removal requires jacking up the engine and unbolting the engine mounts.. transmission rear crossmember, fan and fan shroud, a new gasket, lots of cleaning.. etc...
so it's much easier to simply and PROPERLY punch a hole in the pan, and thread a bung and properly seal it, and it will be fine.
!!
Rb20det injectors
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
it should run ok... just adjust the AFM a few teeth to the right to LEAN it out a bit
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html
Check out that link.. has great pics and an excellent write up.
As for the injectors are they O-ring injectors or barbed? For example do the injectors have hoses connected to them and the fuel rail? If so they are barbed. If the injectors literally fit inside of go into the fuel rail they are o-ring.
You can buy a fuel rail from Pallnet a member here who makes them for around $125... you can order it barbed or o-ring.
I am running 6 370cc Toyota Supra Turbo injectors on an NA motor right now.. runs fine