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proxlamus©

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Posts posted by proxlamus©

  1. thanks ;)

     

    No i just used... a 90 degree reduced silicone bend out of the turbo...

     

    2" to a 2.5" 90 bend (1 quantity)

    2.5" to a 2.75" (2 quantity) for the intercooler inlet/outlet

    2.5" silicone connecter/coupler (2 quantity)

     

    Thats it!

     

    I bought three 2.5" U-bends and only have to use ONE! so I still have two more sitting in the basement!

     

    I went to an exhuast shop and bought 3 feet of straight pipe for like $25.

     

    Ohh and this was NO welding.. since I do not know how to weld.. lol.

     

    The straight pipe goes through the radiator support then I have a small 6 inch pipe at an angle with the connectors on to make a bit of an angle.. and it worked... holds boost at 12psi without the pipes blowing off.

     

    Soo not bad..

    330795_247_full.jpg

    330795_226_full.jpg

    330795_219_full.jpg

  2. According to MegaSquirts website they have this listed...

     

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    Rev Limiter

     

    miscsettings.JPG

     

    If you are using a Spark based code, e.g. MSnS, Neon, etc, then the soft rev limiter can retard the ignition to a setpoint when the RPM reaches the Soft Limit setpoint. This can help to reduce the engine power o it begins to slow down or feel different so the driver realises they should change gear. The Hard rev limiter will come in if the RPM reaches the setpoint or if the soft limit point is maintained for as long as the max time setpoint. The hard limit can be Fuel, Spark, or a combination of the two if using a spark based code.

    ----------------------------------------

     

     

    Now I was curious if anyone is using this and what they're settings are.. ?!?!

  3. well... i would recommend replacing the main wire from the starter with a much bigger and thicker wire.. so the 12v can be evenly spread out..

     

    but running 7 small 12v wires out of the starter (4 to the fusible links, and 3 to your choice).. i'm not 100% sure about.. i would definatly buy a small inline fuse inbetween where you split off the 3 wires... just to make sure in case of an overload or something.. it will blow the fuse and not your ECU.

  4. thanks for sharing the pics!!

     

    that thing looks soo easy to make.. too bad most of us dont have the skills to weld or find a good mandrel bending shop around :(

     

    Tell us how it sounds and if you feel a BIG power difference.. because you will!

  5. yeh.. sounds like you have a boost leak coming out of the BOV...

     

    if your running stock electronics the AFM already measured the air and is spraying tons of fuel...

     

    with a boost/air leak AFTER the AFM along the intercooler piping or BOV is bad, since the AFM doesnt detect it so your running really really rich.. hence the bogging and mis-firing.. have you noticed poor poor MPG?!

     

     

    This is why it bogs and you cant build boost properly

  6. how do you know your getting compressor surge?!

     

    are you just hearing a flutter?! because the BOV is soo tight.. the valve open and closes very very very fast.. so you hear a pshh psh pshh pshh pshh.. almost like a butterfly flutter...

     

    doesn't necessarily mean it's surge

  7. I hate my fusible links because they keep burning up damnit.. and they are soo corroded and nasty.. i decided to convert it..

     

    I picked up the kit from Pallnet.. similar to the setup BLUE sells.. in the Atlantic Z car club..

     

    anyway.. cheap.. and easy to do...

    330795_245_full.jpg

     

    I used a Maxifuse setup... and an MTX fuse bus!

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