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proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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im not seeing the big deal..
lol.. snow doesnt hurt cars... yeh its a bit of moisture but who cares.. its like driving through a car wash.. brush it off and dry it.
Its the salt and chemicals on the road that love to eat at bare metal
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Thank you so much for the pictures and write up!
I've been thinking about making some molds for soo long now =)
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oh yeh.. how could I forget..
Wowza...
such an impressive, incredible, astonishing, wonderful, beautiful build.
Im in love
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Jeff...
since you've done soo much work on this intake plenum in addition to your intercooler testing..
what are you planning on running for an exhaust manifold?!
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can you feel a difference in torque/power?
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Since i was going to toss my old drum brakes after I did a disc conversion.... i decided.. a sledge hammer.. I broke a few teeth on the way but hey.. its all trash anyway.
=)
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LoL..
Jeff.. I love you
astonishing data and WOW on those welds! very pretty =) did you weld that bad boy up yourself?!
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my God
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knowing that the wiggins clamps alone cost around $150 + for each clamp..
I can't even imagine how much money is being invested in this intake manifold. Wowza.
thank you soo much for sharing your information and pictures of the project!
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Install that cam of yours...
and a lonewolf intake =) or somethin like that..
Those numbers might explain why the transmission hasn't blown up yet lol
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are these numbers after tuning and a few pulls?!
or street tune and dyno numbers?!
by the way... VIDEO?!?!?
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Phil I noticed the Max RPM was 5,500 RPM!
Umm.. keep going! Isnt that the peak torque number in the RPM range?!
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I just took a 3/8" hose i believe.. and ran it from the crank case breather to a TEE fitting on the intake manifold. (brake booster line was tee'd off)
I cut the hose in half in one section to "splice" in the stock PCV valve.
Crank breather |==========| PCV valve |==========| Intake manifold
= hose | worm gear clamp
Works great
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Do to my lack of reading skills I didnt bother to read Innovates instructions which mentioned after the first 3 months of using a wideband.. re calibrate the sensor to free air. Then every 6 months after that.
After a recalibration.. my AFR's are way outta wack..
like 14.2 AFR at 15psi.. how my motor survived I have no idea..
now I have a nice 11.5-12.5 AFR across the band...
BTW - is it normal under boost and quickly climbing RPM to have the AFR flucuate a few points?! For example 11.5, 11.2, 11.5, 11.8, 12.2, 11.9, 12.4 all in about 3 seconds or so.
I cant seem to get a SOLID number that doesnt bounce at all
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hey Phil.. any chance you can post up a shot of your fuel/spark map after tuning?! hell even a MSQ file would be awesome!
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Another job for JB WELD!
juussst playin. This is crazy! Good thing your ok and the explosion didnt cause any further damage! (ie. YOU!)
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at least he used the SEARCH function...
i would much rather read someone replying to a dinosaur then creating a new thread with no info to look back on
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I should probably update this thread...
a properly setup PCV system fixed my smoke problem =)
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I guess 365rwhp depending on temps
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Fence posts are galvanized..
IF you do weld them.. ensure VERY VERY VERY adequate ventilation.. burning galvanized piping and inhaling the fumes will hurt you in many ways
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I am reading the stock coolant gauge AND Megasquirt. so 2 different sensors...
Ill just change to a bigger thermo.. ive been driving around like this since october LoL so no biggie.. just curious about the consequences
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Ive been watchn my coolant temps via megasquirt and my temp gauge...
During cruise and even bump and go traffic.. with NO cooling fan... still pretty low temps.
The coolant temp sensor is located at the thermostat and I have a 160 degree thermostat.
I primarily use the 160 degree thermo for when i go to track events, but i should probably switch it back to a 180 degree thermo for the cold frigid climate of Colorado.
Outside air temp recently has been between 25-50* F
Could I be doing damage?!
Cryin Shame...not for the weak of heart
in Non Tech Board
Posted
my car is fairly rust free still! minor surface rust from bad paint or nicks..
keep in mind Colorado has virtually NO humidity.. the only moisture on our cars is occasional rain and snow for short periods of time. (or of course a car wash)
in a dry climate snow will NOT hurt cars. seriously. its just frozen water for goodness sakes
Yeh its a pain to "move" outta the way but who cares