74Adam

The subject is pretty self-explanatory, but I will elaborate a little. I am converting my early model 74 to EFI. Jerry at All Z East will do the work (I have some knowledge, but this would be over my head). I plan on replacing my injectors, o-rings and connectors, of course. I also think a new cold start injector might be a good idea. Beyond this however, I don't really know what I should do. I DO have enough money to replace every single sensor, but should I? Can someone give me an "order of priority" of which sensors I should replace, or are they all equally important? Obviously, I need to edumacate myself on the subject, but I have to start somewhere:-) Oh, something else to consider: I will eventually get an aftermarket management system, probably SDS, therefore it probably wouldn't make much sense to spend money on something that isn't compatible with the SDS software. Thanks for the help. -Adam

Thanks Matt. I have been in contact with Charlie trying to decide what to do. Up to now, I have been under the impression that the onus is on me to fight UPS (I have never had this happen before!), so Charlie thinks that I am going to handle it myself. I'll call him tommorrow and work it out. He is a good guy, I'm sure he will do what is right. My concern is, DID I GET THE LAST BUMPER?!

I posted this on zcar.com but wanted to some ideas here as well: I'll try to keep this short: I purchased front and rear euro spec bumpers from Charlie Osbourne (Zedd findings in Canada). He had the rear in stock but had to order the front from Japan. Cost, just under a grand. I have done business with Charlie many times. Great guy, very helpful, even sends me parts before I get my check in the mail (which takes awhile to get there). Well, after three months they finally came in. The rears look great but something happened to the front. It is twisted, bad. If you look down the length of the bumper and measure the angle of difference between the ends it would be between 25 and 30 degrees (I don't know if I am describing that very well?). What is odd is that it is a gradually deformation. There is no specific "yield" or "kink" point in the metal. If it were only deformed a little I could assume that it would straighten out when it is bolted onto the car, but this is just too much. So now I am looking forward to doing battle with UPS. I have never had this kind of problem before. Of all the piddly crap I have ordered that there was a plentiful supply of, this happens to a part that could very possibly have been the last in stock. So, I need advice from people that have gone through this. What do I do? What can I expect? The delivery guy left the parts on my front porch when I was at work so I didn't have a chance to inspect the parts in his presence. Will they try to pin the blame on me to avoid compensation? Sorry if this is as much of a rant as anything else, but if any of you can offer some wisdom, it would be really appreciated. thanks, -Adam

Oh ok. I need to get a book and start reading.

"IAC" valve? Air conditioning fast idle or something like that?

Oh, I just thought of something else...lol. I have heard that the 75 intake is desireable because it is the cleanest (no egr for example). Unfortunately it also doesn't have a oxygen sensor, which I want. So, can I use a 75 intake with later electronics or is it best to get EVERYTHING from one donor car?

Thanks for all your help guys. A guy saw my post on zcar and is going to sell me a 75 tank for 75 bucks. Pretty good deal and I think I'll jump on it. Of course, now I have a nice tank that I had cleaned and painted that I won't have any use for

I have a stroker L28. It is 3.0 liters (didn't want to take the cylinders out to 83mm), very mild crane cam, 9.7:1 CR. Not a monster by any means. So, a surge tank is used more because of the baffling issue than a supply issue? Of course, it would help supply too, giving a "buffer" so to speak. I just got off the phone with Jerry. He is pretty much firm on using the later tank. If I am going to have him do the job, I have to let him do it the way he wants. (maybe he doesn't WANT the job...lol)

Holy crap, I never would have thought of that. What would you do with the original return inlet then? Just use it as the vent line? Also, is the supply line big enough, or should I still do the surge tank thing? One more question (man, I keep thinking of stuff to ask...lol), do I need to change the fuel lines (supply and return)? thanks again

I searched the archives, but didn't find exactly what I needed. I was talking to Jerry at All Z-East in Ft. Worth about putting FI in my early model 74 the other day. Now, I had always heard that you could use the 74 fuel tank if you put a surge tank somewhere to prevent air from getting into the lines when the fuel level gets low in the tank. Jerry, however, said the problem is that the size of the return line inlet is too small. This is a problem because A. He doesn't have a 75 or 76 fuel tank B. I just got through having my tank boiled out, POR-15 on the outside and new vent hoses installed. Yeah, I should have had more foresight, but here we are. So, what I would like to know is could you have a shop weld in a bigger inlet? I mean if that is the only problem it seems like that would be the best solution. If you guys have any other ideas I am all ears. thanks, -Adam

Sounds interesting. Let us know how things turn out. I wonder if it would be possible to somehow "graft" a 280 ZX motor (just the actually motor part of it) to the series one housing? hmmmmm

We all are aware of the slow nature of the first gen wiper motors. Yeah, you can lubricate the linkage arms, make sure the wiring is in good shape, maybe even put in a higher amp alternator, and all those things will help, but it is still slow. My question is if it is possible to improve the performance of the motor itself without increasing the amperage supplied to it? I am totally ignorant of all things electrical on a car, so this may be a stupid question. Surely somebody out there has experimented a little bit with this? thanks, -Adam

Yeah, I finally got some replies on the other forum and it sounds like I do in fact have the right parts, something is just wrong. I need to get back under there and figure it out (ugh...lol). I was mainly just trying to find out if I had the right parts or not. Thanks for the help. -Adam

I posted this on Z-car.com and didn't get too many responses, so I am hoping you guys can help. I really appreciate it: Ok, I am swapping in a 3.9 R-200 into my early 74 model. I got all the parts from Jerry at all Z east in Ft. Worth. I have dealt with Jerry many times and always been pleased with his knowledge and service, but I think he made a mistake. I was very specific about what I was going to do and he seemed to know exactly what to give me but I think I got the wrong halfshafts. When I lowered the car back down it won't go all the way down. Obviously the shorter drivers side halfshaft is too long. The reason for this post is that I after looking on some website that has the R-200 swap detailed I noticed the following difference: my R-200 doesn't have the "splined" outlets on the sides, it has a four bolt flange. The halfshafts he gave me have four bolt flanges on both ends (obviously). I could tell at the time that both halfshafts were the same length, and I asked about that, but he said it would work. Anyway, I obviously need different halfshafts, but I don't know what to ask for now. Everything else bolted up fine, by the way. Appreciate the help. -Adam P.S.-I would still do business with Jerry anytime, I just think he may have made a mistake here.