74Adam

Heat, check out that link I gave. I believe the 15's list for around 230-ish, the 17's 310-ish. However, right now there are two brand new sets on ebay with a "buy it now" of $860, and this is for the 17"x7". Hypertek, there are alot of people running the newer style rims with offset. You can probably find some examples on the various zcar sites to see if you like the look. As far as clearance, I would think you would have more since the spokes are now further away from the hub. I actually LOVE many of the stock zcar rims, but I thought this would be an interesting alternative. In fact, I'm the type that generally prefers stock rims on any given car.

Well, the 15"x6.5" are 10 lbs. while the 15"x7" are 10.5 lbs. Not bad and would really go well will some AZcar control arms and brake kit. http://www.1010tires.com/wheel.asp?wheelbrand=Motegi&wheelmodel=Trak+Lite+%2D+Flat+Black

I made a recent post on zcar but wanted to get some thoughts here as well. These Trak Lite rims only weigh 10 lbs for a 15x7 rim (of course you would have to include the weight of the spacer adapter) and I really like the look. I think these are fairly new because I am trouble finding info (i.e. reviews, posts on the various ricer forums) for them. I was just wondering if anybody here has any experience with these. I found some posts talking about Motegi in general and it seems like the general consensus is that they make a decent rim, but could be better. The Trak Lite's are forged, whereas some (all?) of Motegi's other rims are cast so I would think the quality would be a step up. thanks

and???

What are laminova strips? Also, I assume the manifold will have the proper ports for the map sensor and brake master vac? Also need something for the valve cover breather hose. I guess you could use one of those K&N things, but I have seen those leak oil before. That brings up something else I have always wondered about: When you have a turbo/supercharger application, how do you address anything that gets vacuum from the manifold since there are times it is under pressure (i.e. brake booster, vacuum canister for the HVAC controls). I guess you could put some kind of a check valve in the line that only allows flow in one direction? How is this done, I've never owned a turbo car before. Not trying to hi-jack the thread:-) thanks

Hey Ken, could you still use the distributor or does the bracket get in the way (it looks like it does)? I realize crank trigger is PREFERABLE of course, just playing devil's advocate. Looks fantastic and I would definately be interested in about a year.

I'm in the process of doing this right now and the TB I got has the cruise control. It is my intention to use it. I am still waiting on one of Pallnet's spacers and I can almost gaurantee you that the throttle levers will clear the #1 manifold runner. If they don't I'll just rotate it and deal with it.

I feel like an idiot but when people refer to the ACCS are they talking about the air bypass regulator? thanks, dumb in dallas

Mark, some people might be curious about the WRX power steering rack conversion. Maybe a little write up with pics when you have the time.

Ok guys, I got through with the motor swap and I made this post in the "ignition and electrical" forum. I had forgotten about this thread. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, I just got done installing the new motor and thought I would post the results in case anyone is interested. First of all, on the 77 and 78 the housing opening must be ground out about 1/8" to accomodate the Honda fan, Apparently the earlier years don't require this. Maybe it would be possible to use the earlier housing, I don't know. Anyway, aside from this very tedious task everything went easy. I got the motor from a guy on Ebay that already had the wiring adapted (cue jokes...lol). It was a really clean job. Anyway, after all of that I fired it up in anticipation (there is always the fear in the back of your head that it won't work at all...lol) and it worked but I must say I am a little dissapointed. It is a noticeable upgrade, but it is far from dramatic. Considering the amount of time grinding down the metal takes, I don't know if I can recommend this upgrade. On the earlier models, maybe. Wish I could say it's like a hurricane compared to before, but it ain't. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok, I emailed the seller (not angry, the motor is very nice) and got the following response: Adam: There is quite a lot of difference in the earlier years. One thing you might want to check is looking at some of your connectors. There is one near the transmission hump for passengers left leg/foot. It is a large connector, and prone to a lot of corrosion. Also check your air ducting and put a wrap of tape around duct joints. This will prevent air leaks/loss. This can make a big difference. Let me know what you find and there may be some further suggestions I can make. Thanks for your business. Randy, this makes me think your comment about not getting 12 volts is dead on. I bet I've got a bit of a loss. I hadn't though about running a relay but that is great idea.

Well, I just got done installing the new motor and thought I would post the results in case anyone is interested. First of all, on the 77 and 78 the housing opening must be ground out about 1/8" to accomodate the Honda fan, Apparently the earlier years don't require this. Maybe it would be possible to use the earlier housing, I don't know. Anyway, aside from this very tedious task everything went easy. I got the motor from a guy on Ebay that already had the wiring adapted (cue jokes...lol). It was a really clean job. Anyway, after all of that I fired it up in anticipation (there is always the fear in the back of your head that it won't work at all...lol) and it worked but I must say I am a little dissapointed. It is a noticeable upgrade, but it is far from dramatic. Considering the amount of time grinding down the metal takes, I don't know if I can recommend this upgrade. On the earlier models, maybe. Wish I could say it's like a hurricane compared to before, but it ain't.

I'm doing the Honda motor swap in my 78 and noticed this when taking out the old motor. On the inside of the motor housing at the top are three little coil looking things surrounded by a small amount of fiberglass insulation. Does anyone know what these are for? My guess would be some sort of temperature sensor, but the Z doesn't have any kind of automatic climate control so I don't know what they could be for. thanks, -Adam

Oh yeah, I have the 3.90 R-200. Did you put insulation both on the exterior AND interior? This is the insulation I was thinking about using: http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=7 What do you think? Kind of pricey but probably worth it. I figure to do the tunnel and floor pans would run a little under $300.

Thanks Phantom. This car is in really good condition and what I have seen so far is pretty tight, but I certainly haven't checked everything. What I am talking about on the tranny tunnel is the WHOLE THING. It isn't just heat coming through the gearshift hole (although I will look at that as well) you can run your hand along the whole length of the tunnel and it is pretty warm. The side of the seat adjacent to the tunnel is warm to the touch. Let me put it this way: If it were 30 degrees I bet I wouldn't need a heater. I have a 82 model tranny that has been completely rebuilt that I am planning on swapping in. The current tranny is the 78 5-speed. Does it naturally run hot? Maybe the bearings are wearing out? In any event, when I do the swap I am going to put some high temp heat shielding on the exterior side of the tranny tunnel and floor pans as well put synthetic fluid in the tranny and possibly insulate the exhaust. This should take care of alot. I also think that putting on a header wrap would help.

I just got one of those on ebay as well for my 78. Hasn't come in yet. I just got this 78 a couple of weeks ago and this is the first time I have had a driveable Z in several years. Anyway, I had forgotten how much heat comes through the tranny tunnel. Phantom, I noticed you had put down insulation, I was about to mention that being the first thing to do. On my current A/C, the air is actually pretty cold, just not enough of it. When I put this new unit in I will check for gaps in the seals and then I will report back the results since some might be curious how much of an upgrade it provides in the 280. One issue I am very curious about however is with the greater volume of air will it still be as COLD? Qwik240z, what have you observed regarding this? -Adam

twistex, could you go into more detail about your connection at the firewall? I've been trying to get ideas since I'll be doing something similar before too long. thanks

I just got a 78 and was wondering what it should read under normal operating conditions? Right now it sits at about 14 and hardly moves no matter what I turn on. I had a 74 previously which had an ammeter so I am still getting a feel for the 78. thanks, -Adam

I'll do the cable setup since I would like to install cruise control.

Hey Quik240Z-where did you get that bracket? thanks

That's interesting. My next question was going to be why they didn't use the same lever for both cables...lol.

Ok, I thought that might be what that was but wasn't sure. Thanks for the nifty diagram! One more thing: which one of the levers is the main control and which one is used for the cruise control (or does it matter)? thanks again, -Adam

Guys, I'm looking at this TB on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8003046533&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1 Can you tell from that pic if it is the one with only a sensor output or the sensor/switch combo? I am new with the EFI stuff so I'm trying to learn. I did a search but couldn't find any pics. I got a response from the seller, but he doesn't seem to think it is his resposibility to know. thanks, -Adam

evil-How much modification is required to get the ends to match? Also, how much extra length are we talking about. Do you really have to snake it around alot? Also, does the TPS on the 240 SX TB work with the stock ECU? I would assume it doesn't but I'll ask anyway.

Oh, HELL YEAH! That looks nice. Pics are good. I'm a visual guy...lol.

Ok, that sounds reasonable. I'm going to use one of Spork's (i.e. lone wolf performance) intake manifolds and I can have him fab a clamp for the cable. I'm going to use the 240 SX TB because I understand it has two levers so you can hook up a cruise control.This might work real well.