two40

DATEZY

I bought a set of the 10mm Magnecor leads (plug wires) and they are fantastic! It's made a huge difference to my car and I would recommend them to anyone.

Thanks for your help guys. Very useful explanation there Jim Powers. I'm buying new leads tomorrow so hopefully it will eliminate the arcing problem. If it doesn't is it possible that I have an earthing or ignition problem?

“The amount of current flowing in a circuit made up of pure resistances is directly proportional to the electromotive forces impressed on the circuit and inversely proportional to the total resistance of the circuit.†So which one of you electrikiti minded people can simply explain ohms law to a simpleton (read: me)? What is the relationship of the resistance to the circuit? Reason I ask is my leads. I noticed last Tuesday night that they were arching and after having a chat to a mechanic today he told me to check them with a multimeter. Wanting to learn something instead of open my wallet for others I went to buy one and borrowed a newish set of leads off my friend to use as a comparison. From what the mechanic told me the leads should have 3k to 4k ohms per 11". My coil lead is about 10" and measures in at 1.59k ohms. I checked other leads taking into consideration the length and they were all 1/5 to 1/8 of what they should be when compared to the control set of leads. Anyhoo, what do the ohms tell you and can someone possibly compare the ohms in another application so I can understand a bit more about leads? Thanks guys

Oh Tom, don't do it. Stick with your first choice and raise the seat if that's what you want. Initially I hated the low seating position because I couldn't even rest my arm out the door. I soon got used to it and now love the low position. Can't beat low centre of gravity for that extra fast perception.

Are these any good or am I paying too much for a bit of silicone? The other night I opened the bonnet and being completely dark I noticed my leads were arching all over the place. Atm I've got Top Gun 10mm leads with MSD 6A ignition. Would the Magnacor's be a good bet? What leads are you guys using and why? Cheers

18x10 and 18x9

I did exactly this for my last two cars and even though I haven't learned alot, I've had a heck of alot of fun. You get to enjoy the car right now and you have extra money to spend on making it look/run the way you want it to. The bad thing is though, the car will never be yours if it is something on the special side. It'll always be Michaels old car or Tim's old car. This really gets to me but when I think about all the money they spent on them and compare it to the price I paid for them, I quickly get over it.

You're not the only one. When I started browsing this forum I had no idea what it meant and it was in every fifth thread.

Sheeps brains. I know it's not a meat but it's pretty close. Well, maybe not. My mother prepares a killer brain and I can eat the stuff all day long. It's obviously soft, kind of like liver patte if you've had that. Can't describe it more than that I'm afraid. Oh, for those that are wondering, yes, it does look like a human brain only smaller.

I bought them new but the instructions might as well have been in Japanese. Besides' date=' I was after some examples like your suggestion with the strut bar. Now, I do have a strut bar but the towers are too far in to mount the outside shoulder strap (the angle created by the outside strap is overlaping my spine line) so I was looking for an alternative solution. I think I've found something apropriate here http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3564&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 The person at 240z.org wrote this [i']"here is how my harness is set up in my car. I fabricated the mount which ties into existing mounting holes in the body. Pull the interior dog-leg panels and see what I'm talking about. You should see 4 pre-drilled and tapped holes in the body. This is where to mount the bar and it sit right at the correct height."[/i] I don't have a racing seat but I'm not using the stock seat either. I've got a Recaro seat and there is room between the head rest and seat to thread the belt through. Does anyone else have suggestions or pics of their set up? Cheers

Checking out my 3 point belt I realised that it will hurt me more than help me in the case of an accident. My body just wants to slide off the shoulder strap when I push forward so I thought it a good idea to buy a racing harness. I ended up getting a 5 point one and now I need to mount it and have no idea what the proper mounting points are. From what everyone tells me the shoulder straps need to be mounted as close to shoulder height as possible to avoid downward pressure in the case of an accident. Anyone got any ideas on mounting positions and maybe some examples? I'm really only concerned with the shoulder strap mounts. Cheers

I get 'it's a 260 right?' all the time. Being from Oz where not many 240's were sold I don't blame them. Hey, I had no idea what a 240 was pre November 2002. Besides, the badgless look doesn't help many people too.

Mine has trouble keeping heat. Wanna trade?

I was looking for a print version of threads but couldn't find any. I'm I blind or is that feature not installed? It's really helpful when someone comes across an old thread and it interests them but it's 7 pages long with very long posts. I know I can print the page as is but I'd rather spend the money on my car than on printer cartridges. George

Thanks Scottie. Tom, I was just about to crash out when I received an email from the previous owner. It states the following: Crane 33/67 solid camshaft 10.8:1 Arias high dome full floating forged pistons Milodon 1.6:1 roller rockers Double hump fuellie heads worked with Manley S/S valves Doesn't this put a nice spin to it. I'm just about ready to give up and take it to the tuner for a good look but I don't have the cash for it now. Is that hardware any good? I've not heard of any of it other than the Crane cams. Cheers ps, sorry about all the questions but a guy needs to learn somehow.

When an electric pump is used... At idle you have too much pressure and fuel is circulated through the system getting hotter and hotter with each circulation. You do not want to heat up your fuel, especially if you are using quality race fuel as it deteriorates it pretty quickly. When you stand on it the pump might be struggling to keep up with the engines demand. So, you fit a bigger pump or two of them but all you'll be doing is doubling your problem. They will also continue to pump after an accident if the car hasn't seized up which can result in an unfavourable bang. Mechanical and belt driven pumps are a better bet as they flow according to demand, are lighter and do not draw on your electric power. The key point there for me is flow according to demand. I might be assuming that the application is more inclined to racing, be it drag or track, than street use but the pros and cons are applicable to any form of use. Cheers George

Warning May inspire you to try something similarly foolish. 1000hp Lawnmower coming to a track near you. Cheers, George

Hi Tom. I got your email and once again, thanks for educating this poor fool. I'll be shopping for the comp test gauge next weekend so we'll see what comes up then if I manage to find one. Btw, our max pump gas is 98RON. Is it the same out your way? Just making sure we are comparing apples to apples. George

Hi Tom. Finally after giving up a friend of mine across the country found an article in a mag that's given me some insight. Here are some of the details: 11:1 forged pistons steel crank and X series conrods balanced bottom end big block oil pump isky hydraulic cam (262?) Speed pro lifters TRW pushrods 750cfm holley MSD electronic ignition Weiland X-ellerator polished alloy intake manifold So what can your freakish mind come up with from this info Tom? Cheers mate. ps, the exhaust guys fixed a heap of cracks in the extractors and a flange gasket leak too. Runs alot smoother now.

Sorry to hijack your thread but... I got a quote of AU$800 for the subframe connectors and AU$2600 for an 8 point Chrome-Moly cage. This ends up being $530 & $1700 respectively in US$. Does this price seem reasonable? It sounds high to me but a friend of mine vouches for his talent and usually there is a 3 month wait just to get into the shop. http://www.moodmotorsports.com/ Anyway, when it comes to safety and extending the life of my Z I would gladly pay that much and more so I think I might go for it. Cheers

I was dropping my car off at the alarm guy this morning and it was raining so my wipers were on chugging along slowly but adequately. All of a sudden the car felt like something was clogging up the fuel line and it had no go juice. I stood on it in second gear and whatever it was went away and the car got tail happy finding itself at 4000 rpm in 2nd gear on a rainy day. Not something I want to do again. Could it have been some water in the fuel system getting in from somewhere? I'm open for suggestions as to where? Anyhoo, right after that I noticed the wipers were working like they'd just come out of the factory. Smooth, fast and getting rid of that rain. The Z God works in mysterious ways indeed.