Dusty

Interesting your swaybar mounts on the control arm are symetrical mine are not its like they sent me two of the same arm so one side is upsidedown.

Koru works

Apexs did deliver on the axles

Just for reference the Hawks Headers work with the Apex subframe. Not with the support braces though.

Close up and important note. I found the 10mmx1.25mm 30mm were to short to work with this particular bracket and engage the wheelbearing threads 100% so I bought 40mm long ones. Only socket head bolts will work!!!

Brake bracket with wheel bearing

Also you can see the front mounting point of the subframe interferes with the bolt for the front of the control arm. I think you could grind on the clamshell some so you could put the bolt in from the other direction or shorten the bolt

So you do have to clearance spare tire well quite a bit. I massaged with hammer....There is a bracket for original fuel lines that needs cutting off as well as the original exhaust hanger that would be on the front driverside corner of the diff

from apex

Axles shipped today

I have contacted another company to build the axle shafts. If I can get something that works I will share for sure.

I would like to save someone the anger of purchasing from this company....I have all the other bits required.. I will struggle through this and help however I can with what I discover with this kit.

Have yet to hear anything... I know this is supposed to be discussion on the design but, no point discussing unobtanium

 Hey Jon, we got them back from heat treatment last week last Friday, so far everything is in tolerance and the correct splines for the OEM axles. We are now just grooving them and then packaging and shipping. I will get an exact ship date by the end of today and give you an update. thanks again for your patience. Thank you Engineering That Outperforms

 Hey Jon, we were waiting for them to be done at heat treat, but we came accoss a few issues with the axles pertaining to the spline counts, we were origianlly using aftermarket axles (seeing they are more rediliy avaible) however that was a very inconsistent method as the splines on them were all different through the different compaines. We then decided to just go to OEM specs. we already have the driver side ones all done, just need to finish cutting the splines on the driver side, sorry for the delay, we have not made axles before so we are learning as we go, we would assume the aftermarket would be more favorable one, however the materials and composition were of lower grade than the OEM. we just figured we wanted to make them right Thank you Engineering That Outperforms

As far as thoughts on the kit goes. I didn't think about it much at the time but there is no provision for mounting brakes you have to use either their bracket or one of the fd dual caliper brackets. I am ok with it but I don't really like sandwiching the bracket between the wheelbearing and strut normally the wheelbearing locates in the strut now it locates in the bracket. which the koruworks bracket I have could possibly slide around, since it doesn't locate in the strut. I might add some dowels just to eliminated the possibility of it moving. I would much rather have a solid caliper mount on the strut. Also I'm just using base model 350z single piston calipers because all the other 350/370z brakes are huge, in fact it might have been better to base the wheel bearing off some other car with more suitable brake rotor diameters for guys that want to run 14-15" wheels (probably most people). I can probably fit some of the larger brakes but it would be too silly to have brakes bigger on the back than to 300mm wilwoods on the front of the car.

Even more ticked they don't offer an explanation, I had to keep emailing (no number). Last I heard the last batch was bad and in my best interest they scrapped them. I would have respected if they called and told me this considering how late they are delivering.

Im so ready to flame the heck out of AE, been waiting for axles for 6 months

I think you should scan the block. A new block with a decent price tag would be a winner for some folks, aluminum even better.

Bore is 88.5mm. Cr is intended to be around 10.5 but head is at welder getting chamber closed up wont really know where it will end up till after its straightened back out and milled flat. Undecided on intended use either hot na or possibly turbo

So been working on porting n42 for my l28 build. Valves are stock size rebello intake valve factory exhaust. Test depression 28" water. Not much material removed from runner mostly bowl, seat, and chamber work. Was just wondering how these compare to anyone that feels like sharing.

So i have been around the performance industry alot when I was in college specifically 2v v8 stuff and worked in a shop that specialized in very fancy heads and still screw around with stuff for my interests. Digitizing, CFD, and CNC are the very last steps in cylinder head development. In my opinion only really relevant to someone interested in production of dozens of heads for repeatabilities sake. If you want to jump in this rabbit hole then research, the flow bench, and a die grinder is where to start.

Laz at Mesabalancing outside Miami has a serdi last time I was in there. Nice guy and works on quite a variety of stuff

It's pretty amazing how little ots stocking parts there are for L engines. There are way more obscure engines out their that you have any array of choices for. Now almost any piston you can buy for a Chevy you would have to work at to spend much over $100 a piston unless talking exotic stuff. My Cosworth pistons for my Subaru were less than $200 a piston and they are over the top exotic. I understand economies of scale but certainly should be able to do better than the $1200+ I see advertised.

Slightly better than l28 rod not as good as original l24 setup but nothing to get excited about