Dusty

Yes slightly better. Have you calculated what you compression ratio will be?

Keep in mind swapping to a modern forged piston from whoever along with rod if they put any thought into it at all is gonna drop pounds off the reciprocating weight in an L engine like the effect of a lightened flywheel

Nevermind. Im looking at it backwards not used to timing off right side of car

I have the none sfi damper. So the dampers timing marks dont indicate what number the marks actually represent. Best I can find MSA says it has marks to +20 degrees. So that would imply the first mark would be tdc. The distributor shaft lines up good at this mark but when I look at the piston its still coming up the bore and rotating just a scosh or scouche more for dwell i end up at the 15 degree mark. The tang on distrubutor shaft still looks ok I think moving it a tooth would move it alot but i dont know how many teeth the thing has though. I guess the best thing to do would be find peak intake lobe lift of the cam in relation to tdc of the piston and then remark the damper. Thoughts?

I think they are. He just really screwed up my order. I think my expectations were different although was plenty happy to pay for them. I wanted a ready to assemble kit of parts not to save money, I just like putting engines together. What I got was parts in need of machine work which seemed ridiculous ordering from an engine machine shop. The block was a mess even he admitted. However the custom pistons are pretty nice not super fancy but are definitely modern design with the skinny rings, nice quality JE stuff. The package is way way way lighter than the factory stuff you could assemble so thats good. I feel that when you grind a crank that all the oil ports should have a radius applied if that radius was ground past in the process. I think you should expect the center bearing to have enough clearance to allow the crank to rotate when you sell it, yes I can fix this, but should I have to? I also think if you are an engine/machine shop selling a stroker kit the customer should be able to install the wrist pins into the rod without having to go to another machine shop. Infact if its a kit it should all go together, in the block you bought. It is after all engine building, which is all about overcoming challenges in this case I was prepared to expect things like excessive compression or piston to valve problems, but so much trouble so early has the stuff sitting in a corner at the moment.

Hope you have good luck with it. I got the same kit from Rebello and ordered a block as well for an extra 1K. Everything was rusting when it arrived. The rods were not fitted to the pins. The crank was not machined correctly and would not turn in the block due to near zero thrust bearing clearance. The crank was not radiused around the oiling holes and not repaired around the rear main seal. The piston is nice and the skinny rings, its JE. Rod are eagle and pretty nice. I found the piston to be well below the deck, check this.... I ordered new rod bearings cause the ones sent by rebello were mashed together in the packaging and wrecked. I won't go into the block.....

Looking for a reputable machine shop for head work. Nothing fancy just some experience with these heads. I've talked to a few places that advertise doing datsun headwork but some of the responses are scary. IE no I don't think I need to upgrade the forged factory rods that I already got arp studs in cause I'm asking for a street cam.

So looks like the head is about done....When does the aluminum block project start?

I was wondering how common it is to use a spring retainer that isn't of the Nissan sort with the big raised lip. Never had problems with lashcaps popping out on a few V8's I built. I could see things going wrong if you had a lot of valvetrain separation but then you have other issues.

I was wondering if anyone had dimensions they could share for building a flow-plate.

The modern day money maker for imports is to kit parts which scat does (not 500 or 5000 combinations like a chevy). If there was a standard stroker setup with probably a flat top piston they could justify a forging and selling kits to catalog companies like summit, jegs, liberty for these engines. Scat can sell you a balanced rotating assembly in most other makes, sure makes things simple.