Richard Oben
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Posts posted by Richard Oben
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NWZ, I know you are happy with the 4 speed. But, I put 1300 miles on a T56 on the hot rod power tour and loved it. The .54 final drive combined with the 3.73 rear gear made it fantastic to drive on the highway and it town. In this day and age I would personally never run a 4 speed again. My other Z is 3.36 rear gear and 1:1 final drive and it screams running down the highway, I will keep the over drive every time. JMHO, Richard.
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Just an FYI, the 700 R4 and 4L60E are the same. Turbo 350 with over drive. 4L80E is the 400 with over drive. If you plan to do the 4L60E I would try to find a harness or pull one from a car that has the LS1 and the transmission. They all come together at the computer harness and the chassis harness is tied in with the underwood fuse panel. So if you can find a wrecked car with the engine and trans gone but the harness there it will make things a lot easier. There are other options, run the stand alone EFI, we have used Powerjection in the past with good results and then get a stand alone for the 700r4 or the 4L60E
Before I did anything I would spend an entire day on LS1 tech or any of the other LS dominated boards. It is very easy to overlook a lot of stuff very easily. Get a plan and stick to it. JMHO, Richard.
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In theory the 4L60 and T56 line up the same. Unless there is a turbo or some other reason to not use the CXR kit, the headers alone are worth the money in my opinion. The rest of the kit is free. I bought the whole kit all the way to the tail pipe and it all worked. I had to do very little fabrication to get it all to work. Drove the car 1300 miles on the Hot Rod Power Tour and had no issues that were not my fault. I know it looks like a lot of money but the exhaust is all stainless and all V band clamps. Long tube headers, motor and transmission mounts all of it in one kit. Sometimes being penny wise can lead to dollars silly.
If the accessories are a question. I used the stock F body alternator and pan. JCI AC and all the stock sensors, did move the ECM temp to the other head and used the JCI temp sender adapter. JMHO Richard. .
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I have personally done two after market AC installs in early Z cars. Trying to stuff cheap S130 parts in there is going to be difficult. The behind the dash unit is not extremely expensive. My suggestion is to get it and get it in the car while the dash is out. From there the parts can be sourced and the install completed. Did Hot Rod air (no longer in business) in one car and Vintage air in the second. JMHO, Richard.
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I have a bunch of pictures just not a lot of time to get them hosted and posted. Photo bucket seems to be a lost cause right now. R
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I have the CXR kit and drove 1300 miles on the Hot Rod Power Tour, never rubbed them on anything. I was careful of where I went but there were a lot of drive ways and other places we had to go to get there and never rubbed a thing. JMHO, Richard.
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I know you don't want to hear this but I went 930 CV with 4340 shafts on the 8.8 so everything but the 240Z outer stubs are 28 spline. I have a set of 280 stubs for out there when I do the disc swap. If it helps I have a set or two of half shafts I can send you if you need them to get on the road. Richard.
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I just removed all the parts not needed on the pedal and attached the cable directly to the pedal. Removed the stop on the bottom and it all hooked up and works great. Richard.
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Behind Glove box, made a bracket that runs from the firewall to the dash mount on the pass side. Relays and Fuse panel on fire wall. HTH, Richard.
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Other opinion here. I did not do the Z car depot thing, we built our own 8.8 set up. I have some terrible pictures that I will post on a build thread at some point. We did an 8.8 as we have a ton of experience with them, and we owned a great aluminum center unit from a Lincoln Mk8 3.73 positraction.
We used the TTT, front mount and made our own rear mount, used 930 stub shaft adapters from the drive shaft shop for the inner and adapters from Z car depot for the outer to the Z drive flanges. We had custom axles made for the 930 CVs and of course a custom drive shaft from the T56 to 8.8. Currently has no miles on it but that will change soon.
All in it was not terribly expensive to do but has its limitations. In retrospect, going with an R200 and LSD would have been easier, but not as much fun. Kind of like figuring this stuff out.
Again, just my opinion. For the kind of power you are going for a back half car will be the answer with a solid rear axle. HTH, Richard.
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2700 with driver is pretty light. Full interior etc, nice.
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Nice work, rust never sleeps.
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It can go in the air filter if need be. We did that on the GTM we did years ago. HTH, Richard.
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Not really, Just run 2 relays to the harness where it splits the headlights from one wire to two. It could be done at the dimmer switch if desired. Run a battery wire to the relays and then just cut the wire to act as a trigger, 4 spade connectors and a ground wire and done. JMHO, it is worth unless going to LEDs real soon. Richard.
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Even with the GM style switch use relays. Cheap ones from the parts store work fine. We found the breaker in the GM switch would trip after long loads. Nothing like driving at night and the headlights go out. They come back on when the breaker resets. JMHO. Richard.
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That was awesome!
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Rules are easy, smooth to smooth, groove to groove. The water pump needs very little contact to operate, like 30 degrees of contact. If all you have are alt, crank and WP, just run under the WP to the tensioner. A smooth or grooved idler can be put wherever needed to routing where it is needed or wanted.
PS a picture would help. Richard.
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The wire to the indicator needs a bridge from IGN 12V and a resistor to tell the alternator to charge. Do a google search. DO NOT JUST 12 V it, it may work but it will burn up the alternator pretty fast. Lots of info on this on LS1tech. HTH, Richard.
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Have been using the dry ice for years. We get it at the grocery store, two 5 pound chunk does it, one one each side. We crush it in the bag (gloves etc) and then spread it out on the floor boards and the whole thing scrapes away in minutes. Getting the tunnel and sides is harder but a plastic bag shaped to the side of the tunnel does that job.
There is a short window for this to work. Have the car ready to go. Get the ice in the good cooler go straight to the car and get the job done fast or all that is left is a bunch of cold CO2. HTH, Richard.
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+1 looks and sounds great. Well done.
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Side pipes are cool, lord know we have had our share, we have been involved in the Factory Five Racing Cobra world since 98. They also leave a pretty bad burn on wives girlfriends and other peoples legs so if you are not used them they can bite. So unless you have to have them keep options open.
This what I know: Most side pipes are basically glass packs or some form of flow through muffler. They are loud, really loud, and get louder over time. Technology on those has not changed much in 50 years. We have swapped a bunch of them out for the auger style muffler (Lobak is who we have used) and now flow master has a newer technology that uses opposing cones to noise cancel the exhaust, slimline is what I think they are called. There are things like auger inserts, car chemistry inserts (put one of these in my current 240z MSA exhaust)and various other types of mufflers that help keep them quieter. The other thing is in reality they are not a good flow design. A decent resonator and turbo style muffler will be quieter and work better. JMHO, Richard.
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I think what we are all saying is the muscle car pan may be an LS1 pan so is the GTO, neither of them are the F body pan, or the C5 pan. Spend a little now on the right pan and you will be happier in the end. JMHO, Richard.
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I have not fired up the LSZ with the full CXR exhaust on it but will report later.
That being said, we have put auger style inserts in several cars, they cause the gases to tumble and it makes a huge difference in sound and cause very little back pressure. The flow through mufflers with external packing all get louder with time. We found this on the side pipes with the Factory Five cars we build. We have replaced side pipes completely with the auger mufflers and they are a tin sound without the booming. On my stock 240Z I put a car chemistry insert (not an auger style just baffles with no glass) in the MSA exhaust as it was too loud for the stock car and droned, it does create a bit of pressure but the stock exhaust was so much smaller than the MSA it was not a big deal. Hope this helps. Opinion to follow: For the money I would get an auger insert from speedway or who ever and just stick it in a joint and see if it helps. Richard.
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I have virtually no room from the header to the bell housing on the CXR V band to the housing, I mean like a sheet of paper room, thought it was going to hit. I doubt even the blanket will fit. If the QT is any bigger forget it with the CXR Headers. JMHO, Richard.
Alternator wiring?
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
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Double check with LS1 tech. I used a Camaro alternator and did a resistor across the field wire and ran one wire to the battery. YOU NEED two cable one to the starter and one to the alternator. HTH, Richard.