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Richard Oben

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Everything posted by Richard Oben

  1. Really cool holy cow that thing revs fast. Nice work. R
  2. Personally, I put the Tanks Inc sump and all in my stock tank, got the idea on this forum. Would not go any other way. Not super cheap but it just works and works well. Clean install no starvation issues, and relatively quiet. Pics on build thread. HTH, JMHO, Richard.
  3. Nice goals and way to go get them! I think real half shafts are in you future... Nice job!
  4. Stock LS1 computer from the donor. 400 For the wire diet and 'tune'. All I had to do was a few wires, and it is OBD II so no issues with diagnostics. JMHO. Richard.
  5. Lot of respect for all you have done for the Z community. I have personally got your help. So I am just curious why you got rid of the EFI?
  6. Thought I would give this an update. I had been chasing a vibration for a while, since I first drove the car. Changed Diff, changed rear outer stubs, put struts and springs on at the same time. See above. All kinds of stuff, tires were swapped, everything but the inner stubs. Could not find the vibration. Well, we put the car on my lift with the tires just off the lift and ran it. (Scary stuff for sure). We found the issue, the inner new DSS stubs were jumping a lot. Some one once said new and good are two different things. Sent an email to DSS asking the run out spec, .020 max, ours were almost double that. Took them to a machine shop and they put them on a lathe. Once on the lathe it was easy the see the parts were bent. I can tell everyone we did not bend them, no idea how I could if I tried. The machinist thought it was a result of an incorrect heat treatment process. Sent a bunch of videos to DSS and a few other car guys I know. Everyone agreed, bent. Sent them to DSS, they grumbled a bit about the age, 3 years since purchase, but only 1,700 miles though. And the fact they were bent, I just can imagine any way to bend them, without major trauma like an axle breaking. The stubs are in some pictures above. Both were bent. To DSS credit, they did a full warranty on 3.5 year old parts and replaced the stubs at no cost.
  7. Having done this pretty much as well but inexpensive as possible. Spent 1,000 on the car, spent 2,200 on the donor ls1 with T56 (net 3300-1100 sold off), CXRacing kit 1,500, tanks inc fuel system installed 500, DSS stubs and 930 CV witch custom axles 1,000. That is pushing 7k and all I hit was a few things. Under 10K will be tough, very tough. I'm afraid to add it all up really, I think I am just past 10k and have not painted the car. Partial list: new stainless lines throughout the car, struts, springs, rear control arms, rear discs, radiator, hoses, fuel regulator, drive shaft, diff mount. That is just the top 10 or so. It is a lot of fun. I have some stuff detailed on the build thread on page 2. HTH, Richard.
  8. If you have to move the shifter 3.5 inches your engine is way forward of where mine is. No idea why. PS I have the complete engine and trans from 04 GTO. Swapped shifters, oil pan and alternator to F body. But I made sure the GTO stuff for sure would not fit first. Just my experience on only one car, I am no expert. HTH, Richard.
  9. I think you will need the F body to go through the factory hole. Just buy a shifter with an offset built in. Sort of Z shape, my PRO shifter came with 2 or three handles one offset to the rear. HTH, Richard.
  10. Almost all of us keep the Z pedals. Swap the clutch master and it all works fine. We swapped the Datsun push rod from the Wilwood or Tilton. Doing this makes it a very simple part of the job. HTH, Richard.
  11. I put 280Z stubs in, will they fail, no idea, but they are stronger than the 240z series one stuff that was there. Have the rest pretty tough already, so I felt if a stub breaks we can swap them for other stubs that will match the rest of the stuff. Which is: 930 CVs, 300m shafts and DSS inner flanges for the 8.8. The rear stubs are the only part of the car that is still Datsun, lol. JMHO, Richard.
  12. Glad to know the DD AC mount works, I could not find anyone that had used it, just JCI. Nice job. Richard.
  13. When you are done, there will be so much time on your hands, you won't know what to do. Good grief what a lot of work. If this had to be done by a pro, it will be a mid 6 figure bill. Great job. I seem to have said this before on the thread. Keep posting pictures, I hope I speak for others, we love to see the progress. Richard.
  14. I have all poly, no big deal, it is not supposed to be a lexus. R
  15. Almost too pretty to race again. Lots of work left but a stunning start. R
  16. I used the complete CX Racing kit. ALL of it. There were no instructions but everything worked. There are a lot of little details that need to be attended to. I found it well worth the money, but it looks like based on other posts it only works for 6 speed cars. I can't say enough READ, READ, READ, this forum. Days and weeks of research will save you hours of time and tons of dollars. These LS swaps have been around a while and all the mistakes and triumphs have been made before. Sure there are multiple ways of doing anything but the stuff that works is used over and over again. HTH, Richard.
  17. First suggestion is to take pump out and make sure it is compatible with your LSX power level. Pulling it will let you know for sure which is which. My thought is Larger line is supply, smaller is return. It appears there are two vents one to the engine eval and one to the filler. HTH, Richard.
  18. I had to notch the mount a small amount for the shaft to clear. HTH, Richard.
  19. Something is loose all those items get ignition/accessory power. Check all the main connections that feed the fuse box. Just guessing. Richard.
  20. That is going to be fantastic looking. Great job on the waiting too. Richard.
  21. Keep working, a rushed project will not be the way you want it. There are things to be done right and doing them takes patience. I rushed and some things are not how I would like them. Richard.
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