Richard Oben

As said in previous posts. If someone starts one of these conversion without a lot of research here they would be a little nuts. Glad to have helped anyone. No way I could have done it without the others who posted. From Fuel tank mods to 8.8 mods it would have been impossible, even the Radiator hoses were listed on this forum. R

DonH, Thanks, it was a pain, 3 years or more of fighting this. Two problems, both on NEW parts, almost burnt it down. The rubber mount came from searching LS1 tech website and from a local tuner who is big into LS cars. On a the plus side, go drive yours, the car will be a blast, just crazy how much fun it is. Torque on demand, 70 MPH is 2k rpm even with 3.73 gears, AC and tunes. Not modern comfort but not a bad place to be. R

Update again. Even with Rubber mount, still could hear the shifter rattle at 2000 RPM of engine speed about 1100 drive shaft speed. We had the drive shaft re tubed by the group that did the shaft originally. Better but not right, blurred rear view mirror at 65 mph. Took CVs off so all we had was shaft trans and differential. Still vibrated, this is when we did the rubber mount above. Took shaft out again and had it balanced, better but still not good. Took trans out and had the rear housing replaced (stripped drain plug) and some other stuff done. Mainly had the main shaft triple checked. Back together and still a small but annoying shifter rattle. In a last ditch effort before ordering a CV drive shaft we had the shaft remade by another vendor. Voila, finally can drive the car at any speed with only a minuscule vibration and they just be the LS as I can hear the same harmonic in a lot of You tube videos. Took multiple attempts but putting the miles on now is much more pleasant. Sad this forum isn't busier. Richard.

My other 71 had tank problems only solved by cleaning and sealing. So the LS car (71 also) got the tank out cleaned and then a Tanks Inc in tank pump set up in it. Then sealed, pics are in my build thread. The pump never starves and never have a fuel pressure issue. It was not cheap to have done as my fab skills are worse than yours. But worth it in the end. Not my idea copied it from another guy here on the forum. 3,000 plus miles and no fuel issues. The rest of the car is chase the tail a bit but that is always the case. And yes Bone stock LS in a Z is scary fast. HTH, Richard.

Great work, impressive weld and fab skills. Ease of service will be a big plus. Richard.

No updates for a while. We had a small vibration, not really bad, just annoying, and of course right at 65-70 MPH. When my wife drove the car we had the 3.07 differential in it, one attempt at finding the vibration. We put the 3.73 back in (whole chunk, nothing is shared between the two). And the vibration came back. Drive shaft out, re balanced, re tubed, trans out, looking for something, anything that may cause vibration. Half shafts out, again. Trans UP diff, down to get angles better. They were not far off before. All in attempt to cure this vibration. Called a local guy I know, who does a lot, I mean a whole lot, of Ls stuff. He said "poly mount", I said yes. He said swap it out for a rubber one. Thought he was CRAZY, we have built a ton of cars with poly mount. Well, we were dead wrong. There is a whole thread on LS tech about poly mounts. Like 5 pages. Apparently T56 transmissions are very pick about the mount used on them. I have it on the lift with half shafts out, and the vibration appears to be gone. Not complaining about anything just trying to help others that may run into a problem. 3000 miles fighting this vibration, hope it is gone for good. R

Keep at it! If it was easy everyone would do it. Doing good so far, no body died, LOL. It will get there, pink and all. My bet is vent is messed up or cooling lines not right. Something is building pressure, full or not. PS It is never an easy or fast process. (I'm still chasing a rattle 4 years later, ugh). R

With a fixed pumpkin that is not enough engagement, there is a bearing or bushing in there that the yoke rides on. We never trust pre made shafts, measure and give a good shop dimensions. HTH, Richard.

As G tech said. All depends on the computer. If the DBW computer is there use the DBW. The module is almost separate from the computer. Making room for it on the floor may be a bit of headache or super simple. Have done both DBW and DBC both work fine. HTH, Richard.

Great work, and a ton of it, when you can't remember if it is 20 or 30 hours it was probably 40 LOL. The dedication to this is so very cool! This will be a very fast and safe car. Well done!

Great work. Way past anything we would attempt. Master fab skills. Well done!!

That is a lot of work yet to be done. But, starting from scratch is the best way to get it all correct, and the way you want it. So now the only question is blast or not to reveal anything hidden. Great work!!

That is the set up I have. Works good. HTH, Richard.

Just wow, I may have said that on this thread before. VERY well done. I guarantee 100% for sure just do not have your level of skill or patience. Looks great. Richard.

I think they look great. R

The regulator on ours is at the front. Not sure it makes a difference one way or the other. My thought was the Vette had it up front so put it up front. JMHO, YMMV. Nice job on the tank, we had to bend the center also. Works great, if the sender worked correctly, full is 5/8, e is e after messing around with it.

Just so people who look at this thread know this is what we did. Of course there is a pump and screen in the tray when done. The system works great in my opinion.

IF more is needed, there are some pix in my build thread. HTH, Richard.

Completely different set up. One of the Z cars I parted out had a 3 core "V8" radiator, so I had it cleaned and put a factory shroud on it and mounted a 3000 CFM fan from summit to it and never had any overheating issues. YMMV, Richard.

Cool project, as usual. Good to hear things are better enough to get a project. R

Just the one. We ran the Factory Datsun lines from classic tube, who made them bigger for us (3/8 vs 5/16), in all the factory locations. We modified the tank for in tank pump with sock. The only filter/regulator is the corvette one mounted at the front of the passenger fender with EFI fuel line going to the engine with the factory connector and an extension from the parts store. HTH, Richard.

Most LS and other conversions I have seen have a separate regulator on the firewall or use the Corvette filter/regulator to get fuel to the engine. My buddy has a Gen III Hemi in a 73 duster and uses the same regulator. HTH, Richard.

Called inline tube/classic tube, and they made a set of stainless lines with a 3/8 supply and 5/16 return. Did brake lines at the same time for the whole car. They replicate the factory 240Z lines exactly. Only issue was drilling out all the rubber mounts to 3/8, lol. Running the same corvette regulator with an in tank pump. Fully 3/8 from pump to engine using as many factory connectors as possible. HTH, Richard.

Can't really help, but remember the old set up was power the switch and then run it through the fuse box to lights or whatever. Now it is power the switch from the fuse box and then the lights or whatever The old stuff was just a small step up from British. Richard

Great news!!