Richard Oben

It could be pin 45 in the above diagram. They were a bit surprised we wanted it but once explained they totally understood. When we built an FFR GTM, we did it this way. On the Hot Rod power tour the painless guys were confused also, they just let the AC be the AC and ECU be the ECU. Which makes no sense to me but who am I. Oh yea the guy that never blew up a compressor from over revving, or bad pressures.

We used the John's cars compressor kit. We also had the LS1 Wire diet guys do the wiring of the computer. If they are not listed above I have the receipt, found them on eBay. There is an AC request on all LS1 computers as far as I know. We sent the Vintage air 12 volts to that, used the trinary switch from the GTO to talk to the computer. The computer then sends a 12 v signal to the Under hood fuse panel that has a relay. We just put a relay on the fender by the compressor with 12V from the battery. Works fine. We did have to get a fitting and TIG in the trinary switch though. Used the one from the GTO and used an in line port fitting. The advantage is the computer runs the AC, WOT cut out, under or over pressure, over 40 MPH no fan, over 4000 RPM cut off. Lots of good stuff happens. GM engineers are a lot better at this stuff than we are. This may help on the pin out info. http://lt1swap.com/2004gto_pcm_pinouts.htm We had the LS1 diet guys do the fan control also. They gave us Fan out, fuel pump out, OBD 11 out, AC out, great work on their part. We used a Z shroud (came with car) and some brackets to mount a fan from one of the suppliers, 3000 CFM single speed. Works great. HTH, Richard.

We did the math, finally, we have almost $17,000 in the complete running car, still with some stuff to do. HTH, Richard.

Update time again. We have been driving the car without vibration for a few months (woo hoo). All is going well. Going to re-balance the tires before the upcoming trip to Branson for Z con. We dug up the file and for those who asked what it costs to do a V8 LS1 T56 Z, I have MY answer, not THE answer. We started with a $1,000 240Z shell, and a $3,200 Donor car that consisted of a 2004 GTO. Bone stock LS1, LS7 clutch, T56 CXRacing kit, 8.8 out of a Lincoln, with mounts, 930 CVs, custom axles, AC, rear discs, etc. yada, yada, yada. A lot of explanation is above. Grand total 16,888.00. We think we got everything, but may have some ancillary parts we forgot. Do yourself a favor get a Camaro or Firebird, replacing parts on the GTO was not worth the extra money. Pan, alternator, shifter, etc. It was wrecked hard enough I couldn't and didn't take the time to part it out completely, never found the clutch master cylinder!! Did part out some of it and used it to pay to fixed the head on the driver side that was smashed in the wreck. The up side is the car had to be low mileage, everything was very clean inside and out, no issues so far. We have not painted the car or finished the interior (have the parts here so they are in the above total). No Stereo yet, either, thinking Box in the back and blue tooth. In short this is not a project for the faint of heart or wallet. For the $17K I could have bought a used C5 corvette or a 996 Porsche. So plan wisely, double the budget, I hoped to be under $10k, and double the labor time. BUT I would not trade the car for the fun it is and conversations I have had with it and about it. We did everything on the car, from welding the bad dog rails in to wiring the car and connection to the paid for cut down harness. HTH, Richard.

The JCI kit is based on the F body shifter location. I used the standard Datsun ground from the battery to the body by the batter location. I guess it could be run to any trough bolted place on the chassis. JMHO. R

Great work, thanks for the great pics. R

I have not installed the Hoke or Apex. No idea how complete they are or are not, or how complete you need, this is a much bigger statement than you realize. Do you have exhaust expertise? or not. Hoke, I think quit making them. Apex is just a cross member I believe. Again beautiful stuff but it is just a start. JCI has some great stuff also, bought AC compressor mount from them. I went with the CX Racing as it was the most complete in my opinion. Mounts, for Engine and trans and complete exhaust. We did end up modifying the exhaust ($450 worth) to make it work the way I wanted it to. That was because of the 8.8 rear I installed, not because of the CX kit. All in all very happy with it. The exhaust under the T 56 is pretty low but the full length headers and lack of room dictate a lot of that. I have a build thread where I go over some of it. A few thousand miles later, every time I get in the car I laugh as it is just a blast to drive. 80 mph is 2100 rpm in 6th LOL. In short a lot depends on the skills of the builder and the amount of work that has to be done by them or having the work done for them. So far only the tank modifications and exhaust were farmed out, everything else I struggled/stumbled through. So far dead reliable and super fun. For what it is worth, painted the entire engine bay before install and had no issues. All of the above is just my opinion. Take it for what it is worth, and what was paid for it.... Richard.

Really cool holy cow that thing revs fast. Nice work. R

Personally, I put the Tanks Inc sump and all in my stock tank, got the idea on this forum. Would not go any other way. Not super cheap but it just works and works well. Clean install no starvation issues, and relatively quiet. Pics on build thread. HTH, JMHO, Richard.

Hope this works. Porsche CV with 8.8 IRS.

Nice goals and way to go get them! I think real half shafts are in you future... Nice job!

Stock LS1 computer from the donor. 400 For the wire diet and 'tune'. All I had to do was a few wires, and it is OBD II so no issues with diagnostics. JMHO. Richard.

Lot of respect for all you have done for the Z community. I have personally got your help. So I am just curious why you got rid of the EFI?

Thought I would give this an update. I had been chasing a vibration for a while, since I first drove the car. Changed Diff, changed rear outer stubs, put struts and springs on at the same time. See above. All kinds of stuff, tires were swapped, everything but the inner stubs. Could not find the vibration. Well, we put the car on my lift with the tires just off the lift and ran it. (Scary stuff for sure). We found the issue, the inner new DSS stubs were jumping a lot. Some one once said new and good are two different things. Sent an email to DSS asking the run out spec, .020 max, ours were almost double that. Took them to a machine shop and they put them on a lathe. Once on the lathe it was easy the see the parts were bent. I can tell everyone we did not bend them, no idea how I could if I tried. The machinist thought it was a result of an incorrect heat treatment process. Sent a bunch of videos to DSS and a few other car guys I know. Everyone agreed, bent. Sent them to DSS, they grumbled a bit about the age, 3 years since purchase, but only 1,700 miles though. And the fact they were bent, I just can imagine any way to bend them, without major trauma like an axle breaking. The stubs are in some pictures above. Both were bent. To DSS credit, they did a full warranty on 3.5 year old parts and replaced the stubs at no cost.

Having done this pretty much as well but inexpensive as possible. Spent 1,000 on the car, spent 2,200 on the donor ls1 with T56 (net 3300-1100 sold off), CXRacing kit 1,500, tanks inc fuel system installed 500, DSS stubs and 930 CV witch custom axles 1,000. That is pushing 7k and all I hit was a few things. Under 10K will be tough, very tough. I'm afraid to add it all up really, I think I am just past 10k and have not painted the car. Partial list: new stainless lines throughout the car, struts, springs, rear control arms, rear discs, radiator, hoses, fuel regulator, drive shaft, diff mount. That is just the top 10 or so. It is a lot of fun. I have some stuff detailed on the build thread on page 2. HTH, Richard.