kolonelklink87

i wouldnt do that just yet.... injector size is important... make sure you know that for sure... where did the map come from? (link?) run it at 2500 rpm for 2 minutes at operating temp then pull plugs and post pics?

if the head was milled recently shavings can get caught in annoying places and jam the valves... I had this happen to me recently, I'm never going back to THAT machinist lol:shock:

has the cam timing been changed during the install or is it the same as before?... if not i would be more suspicious of your VE tables... there's plenty of good ones for l28's on here but you need to make sure your table matches your injectors etc... if this is the problem let me know and post your specs etc.

I figured out a little trick when i cut injector ports into my e88 head for my MS install - get some run-of-the-mill furniture foam etc, rip it into compressable balls and then wrap these in plastic bags and cut off the excess plastic... make two per port to create "double seal" and when you're ready to take them out use an air gun or vacuum(preferably) on the first then pull it out and repeat on the second. the plastic removes the porousity of the foam so it is less likely to trap slaggy little shavings whilst still keeping that wonderful expanding seal To protect the sump during cleaning you could even use cling-wrap! Alternatively you could tape up any openings that you want to protect but you might have problems with getting the tape to adhere to those oily surfaces hope that helps! - Pete *edit* dang Mark! beat me to it!!!

you're gonna want to clean all those metal shavings pretty well before putting everything back together - plug all the channels and the sump with foam, i wouldnt use an air hose as it might just spray them onto the timing chain; lots of oil, degreaser, cloth and a soft touch?

and the cover if necessary? maybe we should see some pics of how off center etc before recommending drilling? While you're in there FSM recommends gasket change on front cover, water pump and oil seal, an extra bit of work but almost definately worth it. "timing cover kit" cost like $10? You may also need to use a sh**load of sealant around the pump outlet depending on how corroded it is. Mine was stuffed and i ended up needing to change the front cover for a spare to do the job properly.

Once the crank pulley is off take the key out and put it somewhere safe untill you've put everything else back on; wouldn't want to bump it and lose it somewhere on the floor or sump - ive had some close calls with that one

I agree; pull the plugs; pull the plugs; pull the plugs...... SU's are notorious without correct maintainence & tuning... I've have similar problems many times when i used to run flattops. Eventually i isolated my problems to a combination of points ignition and misalligned needles (the pointless dizzy make troubleshoot half as difficult because it's reliable:flamedevi) if they haven't been touched in a while a rebuild could even be in order but... get more info on the problem before you throw time and money into it. if you aren't sure about reading the plugs take a photo of all six and post... people on here are junkies for figures, photos and data - so you'll get the best response that way

my cam sprocket is 3-2(top)-1 from leftt to right at TDC but i'll wait for someone else to answer this one correctly... however - DONT adjust it or turn it or move is whatsoever untill you know what you're gonna do. DONT adjust the cam position untill the head is fully off the engine. (correct me if im wrong guys but that cam looks 180* out?, my pin is at peak at TDC)

:eek:Pictures?

P90 would help higher comp. better but 10:1 is still very ambitious. as previously stated... to run that kind of comp wiht a turbo you'll most likely trash your bottom end if you arent EXTREMELY experienced in tuning $1300 will do a lot more for HP results in the top end than the bottom and these blocks are bullet-proof anyhow. Without the head work you are very limited in your overall HP goals and you will have to boost much higher than nessecary(or safe?) to overcome this. There is lots of info out there for headwork, some of it refers to NA engines but dont let that put you off... the concept of flow reigns true for turbo and NA. if finances are tight (beleive me i KNOW that one) I seriously think you should invest in the head, not the block. Also, you havent mentioned you original head (what is it?) if your HP goals arent absurd... i wouldnt be risking the higher comp etc etc. No need to reinvent the wheel there's plenty of info on here about acheiving up to 400hp without drastic or exotic modification.

nor me. *tear*

i would be saving some money on the bottom end(which are pretty tough and versatile as stock) and spending it on head work and standalone efi. As long as your block is nice and healthy just do a bit of cleaning down there, hone, new rings etc etc then take the money from boring out and spend it where it matters. Also, i'm in uni too... i don't have enough time either, in fact, what am i even doing here?

Actually, I was helping if you look into my suggestions... Your "simple" question is not as simple as you think. generally, people reccommend a p90 head with solid lifters and ridiculous port work etc. However, the greatest HP numbers have not been posted on this head but on other exotic heavily modded heads (re: TimZ/monzter) You really need to set yourself some goals before choosing a head - how much HP? how much boost? how much CR? You can then choose a block/crank/piston/head combination to acheive theses goals based on other peoples results in these areas. Building an L turbo IS an engine research project, everyones set up is slightly different and the search tool is your key to access known acheivable results. If you want to build a factory turbo engine, taking no risks and getting factory HP, get yourself an 280zxt FSM, you need'nt ask then, just refer to factory data. If not, you're out here in the ether with the rest of us and the key becomes read, read, read.

the implication here is that forum members time is less valuble than yours. The answer to your question requires a full write-up which takes alot of time and is covered many times elsewhere. SEARCH!! Check the FAQs, theres a write-up on turbo-L's there, look into: P90, p79, e88, n42 etc... "quench pad" "dished pistons" "siamesed cylinders" and so forth.... there is no point getting a simple answer if you dont understand the princible behind it - otherwise you might as well pay someone else to do your build for you, because you will learn just as much that way. Check the stickys on L-series heads Cheers,

perhaps some more information - Pull the spark plugs and take a photo? check that each plug is igniting correctly, Use the ol' flathead screw driver and ear to test if all injectors are firing ->check fuel and spark first then check sensors, temp sensor plugs come loose more often than ecu failure... check your distributor angle sensor? my brother was told by a mechanic that his ignitor on his skyline was stuffed... when i had a look i found a loose CAS connection.. saved a bucket of cash if you suspect the sensors pull them and put them in hot water(OR oven lol), resistance should vary (see FSM). failing this you should be able to pick up a cheapy ECU.... im not certain as to how frequently they fail as its all solid-state. People seem to throw money at ecu's to fix problems but it frequently brings heartache when the problem isnt solved *edit* from memory when i had zx injection system when i disconnected the AFM it caused the engine to run WAY rich.. i could only get it to run when the throttle was fully opened.... what happens when you throttle, can you video that? after this drama has receded you should consider going with a programable FI such as megasquirt (if you can afford it). Obviously you can post on forums and operate a video camera (also you appear at least semi-literate despite the mullet to evidence to the contrary) this being the case, with time, patience and perseverance you should be able to work out MS.

Thanks:eek: Its actually just a home fabby job with some tin-snips, sheet aluminium and a ball-peen. I have no idea as to much of the science behind in or how to optimise heat reflection. I certainly have noticed considerable difference though; This image is the bay taken by the PO (what was he thinking?!?!) It was reasonably economical but had no guts after 4k :S after megasquirt install and the new manifold etc etc(not running heatshield and sucking from bay) it had alot more power (seat of the pants guess) but i could hear pinging after 5k depending on temp etc. even with my fairly conservative timing. the induction and sheilding are only a couple of weeks old but i certainly noticed it has made a difference, i've been able to run alot harder than before without hearing any det moments *touch wood*. MS tells me i've dropped ~10*C in intake temp w00t The manifold still gets a bit warm down near the head because the sheilding is VERY close where the extractors+sheild+manifold meet, i suppose thats why alot of guys cut the webbing out? Interestingly it's started running rich on the same tune as before, i would have expected it to be lean with cooler air? i need to address my MAT compensation i guess(?) I chose to go with an airbox rather than piping because of the rarity of the car and not wanting to cut up the nosecone. it sucks from behind the lights where there's a fair bit of connection with the outside world, plus there's a big gap in the fender cavity there which is also continuous with the real world (ex-vivo )

oh yes, of course not, i'm just curious is all ahhh... sweet... i'll look that up when i get home and have the part in hand

hey guys, i was pulling the wiring loom on my cedric/260c after a megasquirt install. the PO was running a 280zx FI manifold etc on a tapped e88 head, the engine number and block stamp matches the stock l26. my question is, the ecu i pulled out of the car looks to me like the standard 280zx ecu, it is a jecs part etc... it looks to me like the AFM may have been modified... i've not heard of putting a l28 ecu on a l26, does anyone have any experience with this? cheers.

More cedric engine bay photos it's a budget build but i'm still proud of it. I'm open to any suggestions people might have? esp in the heat shield/induction departments as the head was shaved by PO, really trying to control detonation etc... doing alot better with those now

how 'bout a sticky on it?

actually that was my whole point- consider doing the HG to make it drivable, then get another block and bide your time putting together something special- a new topend deserves a new bottom end ... of course this mightnt be nessecary if those kms are "genuine" perhaps pull the head, inspect top and bottom ends- collect information then decide; it needs to be done to catch that gasket in any case i'm just tryna be helpful, lost money in the past buying parts before i was certain about the direction of my projects:redface:

If you're going to the effort of getting a fresh head (investment much) why not throw in a little extra cash and start putting together a fresh bottom end to go with it? ie: replace the gasket on your current set up then put it back together. Then you can take your time putting together a proper beating heart for that thing without chopping and changing parts into a running vehicle? Way i understand it, l28 bottom ends aren't terribly expensive or difficult to find for you yanks? certainly not when considering the expense of a fully reconditioned head?

hey mark, how's the build coming along? I'm just working on my last exam for the semester atm. sorry i never got around to finding the time to come over an have a look (bizarre being that im only down the road)... perhaps some time next month when i get some holidays... i'm still very keen. Also, still looking for an l28 to play with if you know anyone local (darkside turbo build potentially for my coupe or cedric sedan!).

sorry guys... couldnt resist.... 50.813680N, 2.474818W if i've given the right directions you should know fairly immediately:flamedevi