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HybridZ

menzzer37

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About menzzer37

  • Birthday 11/23/1986

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  1. I'm looking for a oil cooler plate. I don't need the lines or the cooler itself, but if anyone has one to spare, shoot me a PM and a price. Thanks
  2. I downoaded ride runner, but where did you get that skin? Mine looks nothing like that.
  3. Could it be an alternator issue where it only kicks on when the alternator starts putting out juice? The alternator is new and worked great before I pulled the motor.
  4. No the lights stay on after they come on. The speedo works but it's mechanical. All other gauges are dead. I still havent got the tach to work with edis yet. But I do not have oil pressure or temp and they are hooked up correctly!
  5. Hi guys. I'm having a stange electrical issue in my 76 (wiring harness from a 77) 280z. I just finished an engine rebuild, turbo, megasquirt, and edis install. None of my dash lights work until I rev the engine up to around 4000 RPM. At this point, the brake light and the charging indicator come on. This is a strange issue and any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks Also, I am not getting any brake lights, turn signal, headlight at anytime either.
  6. I agree. The "hud" phrasing had me confused too. I don't even think that's slang, but most of the words are spelled incorrectly.
  7. I'll second the find! I tried everything to get my Z running. I flipped the coil order from ABC to CBA and it fired right up! The order is definately reversed on some packs. I read through the v3 thread, but must have missed it in the convolution.
  8. I wanted to help clarify on the color heat/absorption comments. Emissivity is the benefit of shiny coatings. Flat or shiny a color does not affect heat transmission, only the ceramic. The color aids in reflecting and associated absorption. A color does not make it radiate more, only absorb more.
  9. IT LIVES! Thank you guys for all your help. Turns out, my ignition fires CAB not ACB like megamanual says. A member sent me a pm and told me to try flipping the coil and it worked! She loud, smelly, and beautiful. Thanks again
  10. Thanks for your help guys. I have posted in the msq forum, but nobody has really taken any interest. I rebuilt the motor so the head has been off, but I'm pretty sure the timing is right. A timing light won't work with edis as it will flash on top and bottom since it's wasted spark. At least that's what megamanual says. I dont have a timing light and havent bought one since I read that (maybe that's wrong, I could be mistaken). My damper has slipped, so I'm not sure the timing mark is accurate. I'm going to go through my injector wiring today and see if I can troubleshoot.
  11. it wont start, so I cannot run it... I have tried a couple of maps off here from cygnus and others, but the engine won't catch. I can get it to gurgle and backfire consistently now but it will not catch and idle. I bought the injectors over a year ago and I can't honestly remember what size they are. I've tripple checked the timing, rewired everything, tried iridium plugs and copper, and played with req fuel for hours.
  12. I'm to the point of paying someone to come look at it. I'm in Warsaw, IN. It's about 2 hours from Indy and Chicago. Anyone close?
  13. Yeah it's a fresh build, but the VE could be off. I have one that I've gotten off here. Here are the engine specs: 300zx turbo injectors (280cc i think?) t3/t4 intercooled EDIS 240sx TB GM sensors I've attached my .MSQ Also, I'm running 97ish KPa while cranking. Is that normal? 280z august.rar
  14. So I've been trying to get my megasquirt setup running and I think impropper cam alignment may be the issue. I keep getting inconsistent backfires. Here's how I timed it: crank key up #1 TDC Cam pin up (old chain) gear on #2 pin hole Line up bright links on dot of crank sproket and #2 dot on Cam sproket. When I crank it over with a breaker bar and my finger over the #1 plug hole, it stops compressing a little before the cam key is straight up. Does that mean the timing is off? Does that mean the valves open just before TDC? Also, the timing mark on the damper is a little to the right of the 0 on the timing marker. Could this be a chain stretch problem? Any help would be great. Thanks!
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