weirtech

also, had you considered lengthening the runners into the plenum with velocity stacks on them to equalize flow? much like the cosworth xfe engines from the old champ car series? i'd be curious to test some of my own ideas as well as other ideas from intake manifolds from other cars. i'm hoping to build an intake manifold for a customer shortly (not a z car) and found this wonderful thread via google.

what cfd sofware are you using? amazing work. that is a tremendous amount of machining time in that plenum! just the material must have cost quite a bit.

that thing isn't worth more than $50. sorry.

other than the first one which should have an outlet of 63.5, not 66, they are missing the dimensions for the ports in the middle. also, the t25 doesn't have a port that big.

dayz, if you want a quick tig lesson, i'll provide one. i have a spare helmet at my shop, which i'll be at all day on sunday. it is in burlington just at appleby and north service... although i'll be working on my own car most of the day. you are more than welcome to drop by any time. aaron 905-02-4703

it is recommended to back purge if you are getting 100% penetration. if you can, get straight argon instead of a mix gas when welding stainless. i hope you don't mean pie cuts with this statement. i'd have to argue against that. in no way do pie cuts/segmented welded bends outflow a mandrel bent tube. that is just simple common sense.

yeah, i like to smear it around with my finger nice and even, but about a 1/4" away from the turbine opening as it does spread out when bolted up. i don't wait, i bolt it up right away as i want it to set in the squeezed position. i ran two summers with it like that and no issues. i used it for all the joints between manifold, turbo, downpipe, wastegate and dump tube.

ebay + turbo kit = fail

yeah, i'd almost consider that flex like an up pipe or something. i'd add one in that instance as well. i've never seen them on the actual runners of a manifold though.

jerry, i've had my miller 180sd for about 5 years now. i've upgraded the torch to a heavier air cooled torch rated for 200amps when the welder only does 180. the torch that came with it was only rated for 150 so obviously if it sees a lot of use, it is going to get hot. i've not had any issues with my welder, or the torch getting too hot to hold onto. i'll weld all day long a 120 and only wear light gloves. the only time i put on heavy gloves it to weld heavy aluminum because the material heats up more than the torch does. for $80 you can't go wrong when you are investing in learning. when you get a torch, look into getting a gas lense setup for it as well. it will make life much easier and really drop the learning curve. drop by the shop some time, i've got a spare helmet so i can give you some pointers if you like. aaron

building a ss exhaust from home (done properly) is going to cost more than double what an aluminized exhaust costs, just in materials. never mind consumables. backpurging is an absolute must on thin stainless like 16g tubing imo. pie cutting (segmented bends) is a big no-no as well. sure they may do it in japan, but that doesn't make it the right way to do it. i get most of my supplies locally, but have bought piping from velocityair (globaltecheng) because they have amazing prices and even better customer service. for flanges, well, i just use my own. http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=83018.0

jerry, have you checked to see if a standard 4 bolt gasket will work? it doesn't look like all 5 holes will line up, but if 3 of them do and the port is centered, then it should still work fine if you can get all 7 bolts in. might be easier/cheaper than going with a home made one. aaron

welding a chain is pretty old school. there are pretty effective engine dampers available. you may just have to make a custom bracket to make one work. brace it to the engine, but try to create a triangle with your brace with two points vertical on the engine and the third above the anchor point on the turbo. flex pipes are more common in downpipes now. i've never seen them in turbo manifolds, n/a headers yes, but not turbo manifolds. a properly built and welded manifold should never crack.