Blob1620

Does this give you the ability to ignore the knock sensors too?

What about the Australian hot rod coils I keep seeing around? has anyone run them? seems a more direct replacement, and similar/less cost then the LS coils. Are they really just not any good? Yellow jackets, Splitfire, racing parts warehouse..... are non of these worth buying?

Ive been chasing my tail with the runability of my rb25. Its a fresh rebuild, i now have about 1000 miles on it, and it still seems to have basic runability issues. Has a little fart (misfire) now and again when its cold and warming up, AFR is comfortably in the 12's range when Im at full throttle, and my timing is set to stock 15 degrees base timing. The power is very underwelming, and when I get up to 6500-6800 rpm or so, it randomely breaks up, almost like hitting a soft rev limiter. My searches for the rev limit with a stock ecu have come up with a wide range of oppinions. But since it seems to be different every time, Im more suspect of an ignition issue. It has factory coils, ive gotten better runability every time I close that gap more (currently at .8mm) and dont feel Inshould be closing it more. Has anyone had similay runability issues whne their coils were startig to give up?

There is another mirror discussion thread, but I was wondering if anyone has used the low profile door mount mirrors I keep seeing on the web. Cant find any pictures of people running them, and was wondering if anyone on here was? If included a picture of what Im talking about, and a pic of a car that looks like it might be running them from a google pics search I did. Ill be going with black bullet mirrors otherwise. I dont feel like buying these if they dont fit the car right.

Good suggestion. I'm still sponsored by LiquiMoly so I went with their synthetic gear oil and Extreme Oil/Gear additive. I'm running LM GT1 10w-50 in the engine too. Something tells me the thinner flowing nature of their products may just be causing it to shift a little clunky. I've noticed 90's gearboxes tend to like oil as thick as honey haha. I had a 1970 Mustang that I did a tremec T-5 swap in, same thing, didnt shift right till I put really thick oil in it. so.....

I don't have any sort of way to monitor the ecu temp reading unfortunately. extra tools like that needed to communicate with my stock ecu have been over my minuscule budget for the moment. I've been driving it about two weeks now. going to drop the break in oil this weekend and put in something a bit less thin (look at my oil pressure, that's at 3k rpm) My fan switch is the universal Summit Racing relay kit, and and fan. instrumentation has been coming along one gauge at a time. I verified my proper fan operation before driving it using a IR gun. The car is really running nicely the more it breaks in. i think the previous owner of the RB must have beaten on it (thus it needing rebuild) because the transmission shifts like a farm tractor. Gotta match rev on up shifts now and again. Ether way, building the plane as i fly it, and really happy to be on the road with it after break in, up goes the boost as well. Included a picture of two weekends ago, taking a drive in the mountains.

So it looks like the one i had already was the right resistance range, and my wiring was the problem. These pictures were taken at 210deg when my fan switch is supposed to come on, and at 175 when its supposed to turn off. Looks damn close to me.

I have a 24" resonator coming that I'll be adding to the mid pipe. I'll do a before after video. Another part of this is probably my engine mounts. CXRacing mounts, that aren't quite solid, but have very little bushing to reduce vibration getting to the chassis. I guess I'll see what the resonator does. Thanks for all the suggestions folks!

That pipe is similar to what I had on my 240zx with the rb20. and I never had these kinds of issues with tone on it. maybe I should go that route instead.... I took it for a drive in the mountains this weekend, the cruise back on the highway was miserable, got home and my ears had that "just was at a rock concert" style muffle.... haha

Yea, I like the tone, its just the in cabin noise thats getting me. I figured replacing a large portion of my mid pipe with a 24" glasspack might help a bit. Thing is, I had a 240sx with an rb20 and LESS muffler then this thing, and it sounded great and was almost stock level quiet. it just had a 2.5" pipe all the way back to a run of the mill ricer muffler. No extra resonators or anything like that.

Hi All, Now that my car is road worthy and I'm starting to use it on a consistent basis, I've noticed that the muffler I chose for my exhaust is really far to droany for my taste and I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions for mufflers that sound good but dont make you hate life with your RB swap. for reference, I'm running an rb25 with a t3/t4 turbo, internal wastegate with a 2.5" v-band down pipe connector. I made the entire exhaust myself, v banded in 3 places, 2.5" from the turbo back with a single Thrush chambered muffler (flowmaster 40 ripoff) in the stock location. I've included a picture from when it was mocked up as the black coating makes pictures lack luster in the final installation. I chose that muffler since it fit really well in the stock location, i fear getting a longer one wouldn't work out due to proximity to the left rear wheel. So, what are you guys running and how do you like it?

Please all forgive my horrible typo's. Doing this from my phone and posting before I proof read...

Ill have to double check which MAF Ihave. I got this engine with spec1 coils and igniter box, and Yury talked me into the benefits of changing to spec2 coils. Further more, My engine came with knock sensors, which j was under the impression were inly a spec2 thing... The plot thickens. Ill look into my MAF part number in the morning. Is it a package match deal? Wiring specialties made it seem like switching to spec2 coils required no other modifications.

Hi all, Ive recently got my rb25 running and got all the basics figured out, base timkng set, tps voltage set, etcetera. But it make miserable power. Turbo makes bost, slowly... Its inly a t3/t4 upgrade, shouldnt take 6k rpm to make 6lbs of boost... And the afr's are below 11 as soon as it makes boost. Checked for boost leaks, cleaned the maf, etc. however. The maf has some disturbing readings. Apparently it is recieving 18.5v as a sourse voltage, which seems to me impossible with my battery voltage At 14 durrimg the test. And Idle goves a 1.8v reading out of the MAF... Nearly 30% of what you would consider for a 5v sensors capable range, seems high to me when theres no load. So, ecu is pooched? Sending super high voltage and resulting in super high reading causing my rich condition under load. Or is something else a miss that Im missing. Btw, brand new wiring specialties harness, not a modded factory one for the swap. Thanks in advance!

Wrcbonk, Thanks for that info man, Ive got one of those on order, thanks all for the help!

Great, Thanks! I'll have to look into getting one of those for sure. appreciate the help!

Hey everyone, there's a lot of literature about this on here but theres also a lot of contradiction. Has anyone successfully gotten their factory water temp gauge to work with the one wire sensor in an RB. I have a series 1 motor, but it didnt have a 1 wire sensor, just the ecu sensor. I purchased a 25080-89907 to fill the factory hole, but was this the incorrect resistance range to accomplish what I'm trying to do. apparently theres another identical size but different range sensor as well. which is the correct one? Thanks for the help!

Anybody on here ever used header wrap on a stock rb20-25 exhaust manifold? How did it turn out? Pics? I have no heat shield for mine, but i have left over header wrap from the down pipe. Its a pain in the butt just to find out it looks crappy, so your experience would be appreciated.

Thanks for the wipers!