280znewbie

I have a 76 280z with a 280zxt swap. The car refuses to cold start unless i put the charger on it and put 125amps to it. The battery is brand new and reads fully charged on the charger. Why is this. The car will start fine once warm. Also sometimes the car will light the cylinders at the wrong time and send all 6 cylinders out through the emergency pop valve. Yesterday my CAS went bad and i have a new one coming. Could a bad CAS cause this weird fire and starting issue? Could the CHTS cause an issue when cold? Once started the car idles great hot or cold but wouldn't rev past 3000rpm What i have replaced or checked: Fuel pressure was 36 at idle cap rotor coil ignitor thermotime chts-have a resistance number that is a little off fuses have full voltage at ignitor and coil have 12v at CAS continuity from ecu to all sensors Airflow meter doesnt have any dead spots in it that i could find, although the resistance numbers aren't linear

Thank u. That means my wiring is correct and I made the ride decision in ordering a new Cas.

I already knew most of that. I'm sorry I wasn't specific enough. What I meant to ask is with the distributor unplugged should the green signal wires have 5 volts coming from the ecu and out the harness? Wasn't sure if the wires should be powered or if they should ground through the distributor

I have a 280z with an 83 l28et swap. It has had a 3000rpm cut out for some time. I replaced the cap and rotor last night and after about 1 minute of idling fine it just shut off. Tried restarting and now i do not have injector pulse or spark. I belive the Cas has gone bad. My question is should the green signal wires coming to the Cas have 5v whenever the switch is on and the cas is unplugged? Or should they act as grounds when the optical reader goes over the slots in the encoder wheel

My issues were fixed. It was all caused by a loose alternator connection. No charge=no ignition. The longer I ran the car the worse it was. Now I know why. Such a stupid thing

It is fixed. The alternator positive wire was loose and wasn't charging the battery leading to the ignition cutting. Hooked it back up and installed a new walbro 255 and the car runs perfect.

Tony D: what u are saying is it is probably insufficient fuel pressure or flow at that point? or possibly ignition?

Hello i have a 76 280 with an l28et swap from an 83 zx. recently the car has had a terrible miss in the high rpms once it is fully warmed up. Also the ecu green led blinks 15-20 times in a 10 second period instead of the 5-10 it should (it used to) the car will run WOT on boost up until about ~3750rpm then it just misses. I did the resistance tests on the air flow meter, chts, and air temperature sensor and they all passed. replaced the o2 this morning and id still runs badly. the car also hates to cold start. u have to crank and crank forever.

i have a 76 280z with an 83 l28et. It has a terrible miss that starts at ~3500rpm. the car wont rev any higher than that. The fuel tank is completely clean as well as all of the lines and filters. it acts like it goes lean. it will run at WOT on boost up until that point. i suspect it to be the CAS as the car hates to start sometimes, especially when cold. Any thoughts? i also have the spade on the bottom of the dizzy that doesnt have anything attached to it. What goes there? Aslo where is the CHTS located?