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rundwark

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About rundwark

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    Menlo Park, CA
  1. Old post but since someone just reached out over PM to ask me for advice about this very swap, I'll post here what I wrote them for others who find this post through search: I ended up installing the Datsun flange on the Subaru diff with an impact, just ratcheted it on. Bad idea. You need to find a better way to do it so you don't end up screwing up the input bearing on your diff. Mine started whining more and more after a while, and while I can't be sure that the way I installed the input flange is the cause, it is the most likely cause. I would take the extra time to do it
  2. Did you ever sort this out Petew? It sounds to me like the bog only happens on rapid throttle changes. If you get on the throttle very slowly and gradually, does AFR stay around 13:1 (with then 57.5 pilot jets) across the range? If so, your jets are fine. Most likely, you’re not getting enough volume in your accelerator circuit. I’m not sure which Mikuni’s have this adjustment but on mine the accelerator pump has three positions for volume. I got rid of the bog on my car by changing to the highest volume setting.
  3. Yeah, thanks for the tip! Seems like a good option too, just a bit overkill for the torque my engine's making (and I'm not so into cutting off the old tranny mounts etc.)
  4. Hi Xnke, do you still offer this conversion? I'm very interested for my Z. (sorry all for resurrecting an ancient thread, tried a PM first)
  5. Yeah, so I'm embarrassed to say I actually have one, just been putting off installing it. I think I learned my lesson the hard way, hahaha.
  6. Haha thanks! That was quite the rite of passage Probably float, will report back when I know for sure. But yeah this method worked very well and results were completely unambiguous. I recommend trying it out sometime. Tried reading plugs without a lot of luck, should've grabbed my colortune from the drawer of forgotten tools. It's usually not been super helpful for me, but I bet it would've caught this issue since the carb was so far off. Oh cool, I'll look that up! Thanks for all the advice so far
  7. I did have them close at about 2 turns down from where the jet sits flush, so best theory is that Miles' insistence for me to check float levels was spot on.
  8. I did discover something interesting along the way, sharing here in case it's helpful to someone. I've always had a really hard time telling whether my SU's were running lean, rich or just right using the damper piston lift method that's described everywhere. And just listening for differences in the quality of the idle and idle speed from adjusting jets doesn't really give clear results. So I've always struggled to tell whether I'm improving the mixture or making it worse. At one point, while the engine was at operating temp and running poorly, I unplugged the vent tubes for each
  9. So I think I figured out what's wrong, you're all gonna laugh. My front carb was way lean. Adjusted it to run richer, problem gone. This doesn't explain why the issue occurred in the first place, before I took the carbs apart, but the car runs fine now. I found a few other minor issues along the way, I think the one that explains the rough idle was a mild vacuum leak in brake booster hose, but yeah the root cause for this was likely just user error.... smh.
  10. Well, so much for that theory. Ran the car with the fan controller on fail-safe mode (full on), problem was exactly the same.
  11. This is the style of fuel rail I have in my Z, I wonder where the restriction for the return line (to maintain pressure at the carbs) would be.. anyone here know?
  12. This seems relevant too and supports my heat soak idea somewhat: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/68156-rough-idle-rpm-drop-and-stalling-at-intersections/page-1
  13. Thanks Miles, I read that thread again (once before I started mine too and once again immediately after you posted it). I will look for some translucent hose that fits just to eliminate it but am convinced this is not my problem. My car runs fine at operating temperature for a while, and then starts to bog. I don't see how a float level problem could be fine and then change with heat soak. I think I'm dealing with something else. I did recently install a more efficient radiator, and my fans are electric and on a controller. This means they are pushing less air around the engine bay
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