wheee!

This looks like a great solution for my engine build as well! Looking forward to the kit being available again!

Thanks...I'm a little OCD and when you start saying "while I'm doing this, I might as well do that..." things go sideways a little. 3 years in to the restoration already. It's all documented on the classiczcars site, same username.

Get the one from Arizona Z Cars, it is the correct orientation of mounting bolts and is $129 with new reservoirs. perfect for what you are doing. Anything like those pictures above will require a new Brake Booster as well. This is the one you want. I ordered this one for my 76

Good point! Thanks.

Thank you! It’s a work in progress.... The bottom mount will remain as a support for the rear control arms and added bracing. I don’t see the need to remove it really.

Understood. My definition of "wild" camber" starts at about 2 degrees.... I prefer to run -1.2 in the rear and -1.7 in the front for best handling. Others like to lean on the wild side...!

That is why I have both.....

Ok. So the PU bushing has been carved away to be the same shape as the top of the diff nose. The tabs will bolt flush to the diff and the PU will be sandwiched between the diff nose and the top of the RT mount. Shouldn't flex inwards at all... I may still add a small support bushing between the lower support and the bottom of the diff nose just because I can. The rear moustache bar is the Arizona Z Car billet aluminum piece so I don't see much flex with that in place along with PU bushings.

I will have to confirm once the car is off the rotisserie and on the ground again....

Plus I am adding the tri bar strut support for extra strength as well.

Look into the CX Racing coilovers with built in camber adjustment. I am going that rout plus the TTT GTx front lower control arms.

I would have thought the main part of the weight is held by the mustache bar and that the nose would be fairly stable with the poly mount.... How much did it droop? The poly bushing has the safety catch in it so the bushing can't fail and let go, but I expected the nose of the diff to be held fairly solid after scalloping out the PU so that the mounting tabs were flush with the diff. Do you have a pic of the lower pyramid bushing you used?

This just in! I carved out the poly bushing with a wire wheel on the grinder. Then I mounted the RT mount in place as well as the lower support. Measuring the length of the diff bolt through holes at 3", I placed the old (filthy) lower mount in the lower support and measured the clearance from the mating surface to the poly bushing mating points which are flush on the top of the diff nose. The height is exactly 3"! That means that the diff will be in the exact same position now when I mount it with the poly bushing and no lower bushing. The lower support will remain for strength. Lots of clearance between the diff and the lower support. No further adjustment needed.

Not sure which S30 you have, but you could run them 280 style along the frame rail...

I will do some measurements of the nose height difference between stock mount and the RT mount with suspended top bushing and post up my results. Hope this helps others too.

That will be the ultimate plan, just trying to be proactive if there is a solution already at hand from someone else having done the same thing....

Welllll crap! I wonder why Technoversions didn't offer this one?

Is the 3.1158 the same internal structure? Does it have the "catch" built in to hold the bushing together in case of failure? From TechnoVersions site where I got this one: My concern is the 2 degrees of difference that seems to give some people the vibration. Optional Top-Mount: An alternate way to mount the differential is with a modified Energy Suspension urethane top-mount. This allows the differential to be mounted completely from the top, eliminating the need for the original stock bottom mount. This is a standard Energy Suspension part number 3-1108 that has been modified to have its hole-spacing slotted to fit the mounting bolts on a Z-car differential. In addition to slotting the mounting points, the Energy Suspension part also has been machined in the urethane area between the mounting tabs to allow better fitment. This mount is much stronger than the stock Z-car mount, being less pliable, and having an internal structure that prevents excessive movement. It is also under compression, rather than tension, when power is applied. The Energy Suspension top-mount places the front of the differential slightly lower than when stock, and the original bottom mount must be removed. This change in geometry (about two degrees of driveshaft angle) is not significant in stock applications, but leads to slightly better driveshaft angularity with typical V8 applications.

So I am installing an RT Diff Mount with the Energy Suspension PU top mount (GM style) bushing. I am also keeping the L28 drive train. Has anyone done this mod and corrected for the lower drive train angle that occurs with the RT mount? Have you shimmed the mustache bar in order to return the driveshaft to diff angle back to factory spec? I am using the AZC mustache bar and was thinking of reusing the factory mustache bar washers (minus the rubber) to shim the bar down approx 1/4" to get the rear of the diff lower and correct the angle. I know the RT diff mount was originally designed to accommodate the V8 swaps, so the drive line angle is a concern for the original L28.

Awesome build!

Very nice build thread! Learned a lot...

Looking forward to ordering one of these 11mm rails later in the new year... my engine build is still a year away, but I'm just itching to have one of these! The intake is coming together nicely. more polishing....

Hi! Need a good, used gas tank for my restoration project. 1976 280Z. Mine is solid but severely dented.... pm me if you have one available! Thanks Mark

The $1000 reference was for the MSA version....

Can't wait to see this car on the road next spring!