saxfiend1967
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Posts posted by saxfiend1967
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I have the drop base too it clears the hood and works well the kand n unit pulls through the top too
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the transmissions are not the same the camaro t-5 works well though I have one in my car. the shifter comes throught the factory hole and if you really work at it you can use the factory z shifter, I made mine work sooooooo, with the hood closed car looks completely stock
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mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing,he he
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upper hose has too much pressure in it.and on stand still by 2500+rpm temp goes to +230.(my z has a goodwrench 350 with new wp and 5 raw rad and dual spal 2780 cfm fan) I have changed the head gasket with no improvment on overheating issue.any ideas will be appriciated
same for you check radiator cap ,thermostat and timing. make sure carb isnt leaning out .a couple of jet sizes make a huge difference.the only other thing is run a good aircleaner. if you dont run it the air across the carb creates vacuum ,if its too small it wont run right either,B I knopw this sounds stupid but make sure you have the right water pump and the thermostat is in right side up too. I dont mean offence by that ,I have paid lots of stupid tax. I chased a problem for 6 months with m,y z grumpy vette and everyone else said go back to basics first but no not me I was too smart for that. 6 moths later I find two spark plug wires crossed STUPID TAX!!!!!!!!!!
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yes I have the high power Ford fan. But not from a Taurus. I have one from a Thunderbird and one from a Mark 8 or whatever that car is. The fan fits the radiator like a glove. It actually looks like it was made for it. I bought two since they were so cheap. I also have an air dam and the original pan that sits in front of the radiator. With the Ford fan I can feel the air being pulled from as far as the bumper. I could never feel the belt fan pull that hard. My friend and I have considered airflow problems out of the engine compartment since my auto tranny fills up the tunnel but there is no easy way to test that.
I have thought about a possible headgasket issue. Unfortunately I couldn't tell from a possible loss of water because it would get so hot it would blow out the overflow bottle. I have no driveability problems either.
too much timing or not good enough gas. check timing at 3000 rpm ,if its over 36 back it down and se what happens. I have a 72 mach 1 ,it has to have 124 octane if you run any less it overheats too. other suggestions radiator cap pressure too low,thermostat too low.a lot of people remove thermoostats ,dont ever do it. the thermotat hold coolant in the radiator to cool it down as well as heat it in the block. ok hope that helps
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heres mine I will sonn be swapping a 427 small chevy in with a solid roller and all the goodies. motown block afr heads full length headers h beams etc, it truly never does end he he
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I'm back on the Z. New project is bigger hopefully better headers. I just talked to Jim at rewarder headers. He doesn't think the bh1060 (1 3/4" angle plug) will fit. I was thinking of using them as starting point. They are around $300.00 uncoated. The S&S 5205 seem like a good place to start. Does anyone have any pictures from the bottom of the S&S?
thanks
Lewis
Side note: Jim said that he would make me a "starter kit". Also, the new?, Edelbrock #65743, 65753 look fairly nice. Only 1 5/8" though.
msa sells the s@s for 5 something I bought from them. samderson told me they didnt have full length headers msa claims no problems with angle plug or straight plug
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hey ,whats the best way to get some more tire under my z. Im bulding a 427 small chevy and need to figure out how to hook it I have thought about many options.1 ford 9 inch,2 infinity,3 corvette, I am really perplexed about it. I really want to keep independent rear. thanks ahead of time,B
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Continuing my train of thought from above, if I was building a 383 stroker and had the option of running 6 inch rods as opposed to 5.7's why shouldn't I? Why does the option even exist if its just "scuttlebutt" as my old buddy Colonel Potter used to say?
again run the 5.7 if you want torque which is 1.53333333333333333333333 with a cam on 106 centerline. run the 6 in rod for r/s of 1.6 which will sacrifice torque for hp but will not require larger ports etc with a cam on 110.
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shorter rods make more torque ,period. look at reher morrisons website
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rod ratio is a lot to do about nothing.
I beg to differ. rod to stroke ratio is every thing! a small rod to stroke ratio requires more induction( Bigger carb ,bigger runners) a 1.75 ratio does not.1.75 and up will make more power with small runners and induction. everyone raves about 327 chevy look at the rod to stroke ratio compared to all the other engines a 400 small block chevy has a ratio of 1.6 and makes enormous torque if the rod to stroke is raised it will sacrifice torque for hp nascar is doing this every week a 377 chevy has a low rod to stroke ratio and makes torque out the wazoo ! I have been studying this for a long while. a 273 chrysler engine can use a 750 holley while a 440 with a longer rod uses a 650 the bottom line in lay mens terms if you want a buttload of torque run around 1.5 rod to stroke with a cam ground on 106 centerline or maybe even 104 if you want high end hp run r/s ratio up over 1.75 with a 110 seperation.
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I would seriously look at springs too. they dont have a heavy spring in them to begin with and with age like all of us we get weaker he he. If I am correct the factory springs are rated at only 100 lbs eibachs are progressive and go from 85 open to 300 within 4 inches if the springs are weak it will affect toe
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youll know if its right. Mine was eyeballed and no vibration I have been told it is not good to have everything dead straight as its hard on the u joints,B:shock:
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ps I have the 180 moustache bar too but If it were my car i would put a 200 4r in it it will bolt to the same driveshaft you already have as it is the same length and has the same spline count ,and is .63 od I believe
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I have a 3.36 rear end. I am swapping a 3,9 into it. I have a 3.54 too twhat I would do if I were not wanting to change tranny is 2 inch taller tires and 3.36 you can call me for either rear end 615-573-1990 the 3.36 is a 180 and may not take a ton of torque with sticky tires but should be fine other than that I am changing it because I am making 498 hp and 533 torque with stickys it will DDDDDDIIIIIEEEEE! I have the half shafts too
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I called him too they answer theyre phone evry time I call
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I agree with flatback. I just spent over 2 months banging my head against the wall trying to find a problem and I skipped the most basic thing because I was sure I was right. I replaced heads on my car,my wire looms slipped and #2 and 4 wire got crossed the car ran didnt pop through carb or exhaust started fine but didnt feel right. #2 and 4 header tubes werent getting hot because I had wires tightened in looms I didnt checjk them at this point I tell you get very close to the screen DONT FRICKEN DO THAT!!!!!!! I had a guy that built heads for nascar and every one at summit and jegs stumped as well as dart and msd. all over a stupid wire loom!!!
Ok Im stepping down from my soapbox by the way I took my friend for a ride after finding this problem when I shifted from 2nd to 3rd he was screaming like a little girl Uncle Uncle slow this sob down
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FOUND IT!!! never trust wire looms. I had wires in a loom ,the #2 wire slid back in the loom the number 4 slid forward (when I changed heads and plugs) I didnt check them because I was sure with the looms tightened against wires this couldnt happen. lesson learned dont ever skip the small stuff even if you know its right. I took my best friend for a ride he was screaming at the top of his lungs like a little girl UNCLE UNCLE slow this sob down halfway through 3rd gear,LOL
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yes used timing light to check plugs with car running all are firing
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yes I agree except for one thing, you can build a cleveland with stock parts and turn 8000 rpm if yoou want to. csi in california makes port plate to fix "the hump" in the heads and fix flow issues with 4 bbl heads which by the way can be ported to flow over 300 cfm you cant get too many small block heads to do that and they will flow a .605 lift cam with no port work. gapp and rousch made 650 hp with off the shelf parts in the 70s .what I am saying is buy the port plates(100 dollars) comp cams 294 s 10 or 11-1 compression mostly stock parts and 550 hp under 2 grand chi charges that for the heads plus crank and stroker kit and machine work.yes maybe better combo but wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy more than Ill spend and I might be eating a pizza at the finish line when you get ther,lol jk
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I have a 406 the front header tubes 2 and 4 are not getting hot I have adjusted valves several times ,checked compression and checked for external vacuum leaks. I have checked timing (numerous times) rejetted carb the list goes on and on I will do the propane test sat ,I think the intake is leaking from the bottom. I also get a pop throught the exhaust every so often too in addition the car seems to want more initial timing than is usual ,20 degrees,there is no vacuum advance I have 15 degrees of mechamical advance . alsop these are dart heads 200 cc runner with 750 holley double pump .I have 17 pounds of vacuum at idle and 180 pounds of compression any ideas?
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I think Mike jtr about 3 post up is jtr
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I have a 406 the front header tubes 2 and 4 are not getting hot I have adjusted valves several times ,checked compression and checked for external vacuum leaks. I have checked timing (numerous times) rejetted carb the list goes on and on I will do the propane test sat ,I think the intake is leaking from the bottom. I also get a pop throught the exhaust every so often too in addition the car seems to want more initial timing than is usual ,20 degrees,there is no vacuum advance I have 15 degrees of mechamical advance . alsop these are dart heads 200 cc runner with 750 holley double pump .I have 17 pounds of vacuum at idle and 180 pounds of compression any ideas?
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ps could be a lose wire runnung to dist too
The Old Tech 302 Build
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
also look at a herbert ch7 its almost identical to the crower I have one ground on 106 center. doug herbert.com