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saxfiend1967

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Posts posted by saxfiend1967

  1. If the dist is 180 out, it won't run at all, only backfire, stumble, and sneeze.

     

    Make sure the accelerator pump on the carb is working. You should see it squirt fuel from both squirters with only a slight movement of the throttle. Eddies are known to have the pump seal dry out and not squirt properly.

     

    Also try some more advance. Your spark curve is a whole new topic, but you can probably use some more.

     

    If the carb is squirting properly, I would try another coil in the dist.

     

    jt

     

     

     

     

    if a small chevy is 180 out of time and distributor is in the rightplace it WILL run .I bought a trans am from a guy several years ago with a 350 and drove it for about 4 months it didnt sputter once and it sounded great but didnt have any power. I sold to a friend who is a chevy guru and he moved dist., It ran like a scalded ape after that. I do agree with your advice though

  2. If you have never built a engine before and want real power you can count on, buy a crate engine. They take all the guess work out. I would buy a crate short block 383, which is just the lower half, block, crank, rods, slugs, and cam with timing set. Then add the heads you want. GM has some good cheap choices.

     

     

     

    I would agree here 4 sure. if you havent built one dont start with a stroker

  3. I had a triumph spitfire with a 283 chevy 13 to 1 pistons and 2 fours with a monster blue racer cam.datsun with 561 foot pounds of torque from 406 was par for the course,lol first car 72 mach one cj 4 speed which is on the trailer in the yard waiting to get its spot back in the garage from the z,lol

  4. 1 wire 105 amp alternator from summit 100 dollars peace of mind from 1 wire alternator,priceless.lol I hooked red and white wire to alternator and thats all .the seat belt interlock has to do with the starter relay you use the black and yellow wire instead of the white one that originaly went to the starter by the way summit sells brackets for the alt too,B

  5. by the way,the mallory box will mount under the hood door on the drivers side I mounted mine there and coil is under clutch master cylinder. If you mount them there you can run the wires from battery through cowl and bring the dist wire through firewall directly behind dist. it makes fo a neat install in the pic of my engine all wires are there, the only addition was the upper radiator hose. I put 3 gauges in the firewall above master cylinder.oil temp and vacuum. also in the pic i had coil in factory location.anyway Ive blabed enough for now

  6. I did the same thing by the way if youre using the v8 you can use the interlock switch to turn engine over under the hood. I used a ford stater relay mounted on frame rail near starter I drew power from the alternator wire and ran switch to the front of the engine after painting it. It is very useful when adjusting valves etc it will mount on the front of the engine with minimal work. also for those building manual cars I figured out how to use the factory shifter in the t 5 camaro. if interested pm me .

    I also suggest removing all plugs except windsheild wiper moter .and then loom fits over them easier. Bill

  7. if im seeing that right the capacitor is plugged into the black wire with white strip so im guessing it (the cap ) grounds on the alternator.the red and white goes to the battery. the alternator has to be energized with a wire that gets power when key is on the p connection? I know the t plug goes to the regulator so it should be the wires that run field to stator. I used a chevy alt 1 wire red and white,lol if the p is the energizing wire a wire from ignition switch that comes on with key there and red and white. I do know they changed the gauge from alt(amps ) to volts.fuse p wire and red and white has fusible link (under white cover on the firewall. you should look up user grumpy vette or contact mike at jtr (jags that run ) in CALI. good luck and I hope ive helped some,B

  8. START WITH COIL,the vibration would concern me since you had flywheel lightened .it may have the engine out of balance.rev engine gently to about 3000 rpm in neutral if you still have vibration you should pull flywheel and have it balanced (or at least checked) loss of power could also be valve adjustment or header may be causing too little backpressure in exhaust.. if it is the flywheel you will rip the bottom half out if not corrected,B

  9. SUPER SERIES 44 FLOWMASTER IS WORTH ABOUT 40 HP SOUNDS FRICKEN GREAT AND GIVES GREAT TORQUE. THE GUY THAT BUILDS THESE IS A SMART DUDE HE DESIGNED THE MUFFLERS FOR THE STEALTH FIGHTERS AND i READ AN ARTICLE THAT SAYS YOUR EXHAUST CAN COST YOU BIG HP IF NOT RIGHT.NASCAR CLAIMS GAINS OF 20-50 HPBY CHANGING DIAMETER AND LENGTH OF EXHAUST.A STEP DOWN HEADER AND OR TUBES WILL BRING A GAIN.THE NASCAR GUYS SAY THE DIAMETER OF THE PIPE CHANGES INTAKE DRAW TO CYLINDERS.OK NUFF 4 NOW,B

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