saxfiend1967

I would like to share this. I hooked the chrysler relay to bat on dist. The reason is if I lose pil pressure I get instant engine shut off. The problem with fuel pump is yoi could run a min. Or more off carb bowls. Just my .02

If you use moter plate youll need 1 knuckle joint on steering shaft with scarab headers. That is what I used. They are s@s 13/4 primary full length. We moved engine back to center instead of offset to passenger side. Engine is still close to firewall. Plus plate helps reinforce frame rails. I went from 406 to 427 sbc. Stick to auto. Ps I have trans flywheel and all access to install. As well as 390 rear with disk brakes.

For the record on 9 inch rousch performance.com sells detrokt lockers foe 115. Dollars. I bought an entire rear pumpkin built by them with my gear chooce sbipped for 800. 31 spline. They have been run one race. Sweet deal. I dont want to sound like a know it all but 17/8 sounds big for primaries. I run 13\4 on a 600 plus hp 427 sbc with afr 220 cc. I believe your car will pick up in 60 foot with 13\4.(even though it doesnt sound like you need it) lol

S and s headers with motor plate headers half inch below oil pan

Sent pm

craigs list.org nashville 260z 8900. this car is a steal I helped build it the guy has 25-30 grand in it it has a dyno tested 355 17 inch wheels eibach springs tolico struts incredible machine for that money. I have one but if I had the money id have 2. his number is 615-8343828 his name is derek . If you want a nice car this one is it. it has 3.9 gear in it too with dynomax exhaust sounds and run great. it will hang with my 406 that runs 7.20s in eighth ok enough goonight then and piss off no no just kidding lol

I agree 327 makes good power . how crazy do you want to be? I went apeshit crazy and built a 427 sbc with a 650 lift solid roller and 253 duration . the best cam for almost any street machine is a cam with around 244 @ .050 duration maybe less on a 327. a 350 with this cam will pull hard to around 7000 rpm with good heads in a 327 . here is my combo suggestion 327 294s comp cam dual plane intake and go 750 holley I know it sounds big but dual plane intake requires bigger carb. this combo is likely to produce incredible results and very crisp throttle response. you could go a little less yet and go around .235 ish on duration and not spend too much and have a dependable ride thats fun. I would use 110 or 112 lobe seperation angle on this engine.I would suggest 10 to 1 compression with aluminum heads or 9 to 1 with iron. I run a .005 deck and .039 gasket for squish. I have a 406 in my datsun right now dual plane intake 276 m marine cam from comp 10.6 pistons and dart 200 cc heads car went 7.2 in eighth mile with a t5 and it gets 15 mpg. it is fricken brutal off the line. the cam is .501 lift and 222 @.050 in a 327 torque from hell. ok Ive rambled enough

ps its the one in the pic on my profile

my 2 cents 400 sbc marine cam 276m dual plane 750 carb enough to run my z to 7.2 eighth and very streetable. I have the same combo as youre building with a t5. 15 mpg runs like hell . by the way Im not familiar with 411 200 r I have a 3.9 for sale it came from a turbo z. I ran 400 block 5.7 rods flat top pistons. 76 cc chambers in heads . Im using dart 200 cc. Im selling my engine too I built a 427 sbc with afrs and 650 lift bullet racing cam with tremec 5 speed Im hoping it goes 6s or 5s even we will see.

modern motorsports has a cv joint kit to use billett parts they are running 600 hp to them' I went to 9 inch for 28 inch tall tire and 4;11 gear .67 overdrive. I dont understand the 355 gears unless you are going 1;1 trans. with .67 od and 411s theoretical top speed is close to 200 . I wouldnt use 355 unless you use 3 speed auto. it just doesnt make sense

I would like to add you can also screw a metal sleeve onto factory shaft an place stock 240 z shifer in the other end. when you do this no modification ir=s required. my shifter looks stock and with the hood closed you would never know its a chevy trans. takes about an hour, Im just sayin

I would like to add you can also screw a metal sleeve onto factory shaft an place stock 240 z shifer in the other end. when you do this no modification ir=s required. my shifter looks stock and with the hood closed you would never know its a chevy trans. takes about an hour, Im just sayin

did you try carquest? They have a lot of hard to find parts I have a t5 in my car too but my boot was ok.

two cents cams with 238 @.050 are not big cams especially on 112 lobe center. always check vtp clearance as some cams have better quality control than others. bullet racing cams dead on sometimes herbert cams off a little you should select cam based on usage but if its a weekend driver I would look at cams with at least 244 @ .050 taking into account cutting heads for more compression. I would also go to a 108 centerline. I built a 23 degree engine street car 427 11:1 compression cam 644 lift 253 -259 duration @ .050 on 108 should run til around 6500 maybe 7 with afr 220 heads. The heads on a ls engine are good out of the box, take advantage of them.but do not even think about installing a cam with out checking piston to valve clearance. It will likely end badly. there are way too many variables. A local machinist hear built a 604 for an aquaintance of mine,assumed the ptv was good and destroyed a 22000 engine , of course it (wasnt his fault it was parts failure)yes a valve through a piston without even running was parts failure I will never use this guy. anyway call bullet cams or even summit racing tech line they are very very knowledgable. By the way you didnt say if this car is auto or stick. Im going to throw this out there too what about zo6 cam they run 0 -60 in high 3s or low 4s stock in a 3500 # vette. I have a 2000 vette convertible stock its bruuuuutal

5000 in 406 stick shift around 1000. 750 in rear diff 3.90 wheels tires . I got 18000 in first build. redoing everything again as far as drivetrain. used best I could afford this time. several years of work. 15000 in 427 sbc,3500 in art carr 2004r 5000 in rear diff,roll cage disc brakes etc.bought 9 inch ford from rousch (they sell nice center sections after 3 races for around 800. all things said and done ill have 50000 in car when done. but 25000 is drivetrain. I think Ill go throw up now!!!! ps a word to the wise, If your future wife is an accountant( like mine) pay cash for everything and grill out frquently using receipts as fire starter!!!!!! Im just sayin

one other thing, cant you also get oil pressure at pump on the bottom of the block where the allen head screw is? you can on fords but not sure about chevy. I know if you pull oil pressure from top of block its not as accurate because it can get air pockets in it there especially if distributor lets oil by it. the msd comes with provisions for o rings to fix this.

the clearance at the distributor could be allowing oil to drain past distributor shaft too. I would run a great oil and filter . k and n or amsoil and I would also run synthetic oil. likely 10 w 40 . I studied in depth on oil about 2 years ago amsoil redline or jgr (royal purple is good too) If you are willing to pay for it. the jgr will be the best oil imo it is also problably 12 dollars a quart. i believe it has zinc too as they use flat tappets in nascar. Oil will make a huge difference. huge , All oil is not equal. most every oil gives way to heat and loses viscosity. the ones mentioned above are the best in that area. you can look at amsoil online at theyre website, they will show you comps on other oil and how viscosity holds up. the rotella 15-40 may only be 0-25 when hot. that would surely cause your problem. I hope this helps. Ps as a matter of fact I am one of the nerds that took 4 weeks to study and understand the difference in oils, I spent 2.5 years studying theory on camshafts and heads and am studying now on how exhaust tuning makes a difference. In a nascar engine teams are claiming to get 75-100 hp from tuning the exhaust. sorry im rambling LOL

I have a 406 I can sell you it is complete. has 5.7 rods a small streetable roller cam with a stick it will run low sevens in the 8th mile and get 15-20 mpg . a stock 200r rear diff will work listen to everyone who tells you to use overdrive tranny if automatic. if you have interest in 406 call me 615-573-1990. ps the engine to the left is the 406. I built a 427 to replace it

My 2 cents, If im not mistaken the rods in an lt1 are the pmf , they are several times stronger than older style rods . I am using them in my 406 with speedpro(heavy) pistons. I turn 6000-6500 regularly If you are worried use some scat hbeams . put the longest rod you can fit but imo no need to use 6 inch rod in a 350 turning 6500 . It will make more horsepower but for the 3 or 4 hp youll gain not worth extra money. the pmf rods are good for 500-600 horsepower maybe more. that comes from a nascar engine shop and from me (remember 2 cents) and my expierience.lol ps ls1 engine have powdered metalurgy rods(spelling) zr1 makes 600 plus horsepower. Im just sayin

You have a ground problem more than likely but headlight switch could be bad too.I have some problems with light switch on mine sometimes. I agree with the jtr book it is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yes i have set they were purchased through a z car retailer in california abd were made by s an s they are around 600.

I am using the composite gear and have had no problems. comp guarantees 100000 mikes with gear.I did have machine shop set up cam endplay. hope this helps ps if you use melonized gear it will enjoy eating your cam he he in other words dont even think about it

keep it ,Im the same fricken way I got mine done and just started a new engine i am replacing 406 with 427 . and while im at it tremec trans ,blow proof bellhousing new clutch,new rear suspension ,and paint,lol

4x6s will go in the panel where the door hinges bolt on I used 2 pieces of 3/8 thick osb and carpeted them and recessed them in with infinty 4x6 sound great moves staging forward and are out of sight and mind we did have to mount two small soft dome tweets at corners of windshield for staging

I learned something a couple of weeks ago about flat tappet break in . they do not put zinc in the oil anymore you have to buy it seperate. or you can use break in oil.